Works the same for photography purposes, takes 4 times the light output to cover twice the distance. I have flash units that will fire 191’, or, effectively, across a football field from the sidelines. This takes a massive burst of power and will heat up the AA NiMH cells poste haste! For perspective, most point and shoot camera’s have a built in flash that will fire about 16’, few have a flash that will fire 20’.
When you get hot rod lights up into the thousands, the eye really has trouble telling the difference between hundreds of lumens. Very deceptive, this hobby of ours.
I never saw the movie, but she was memorable anyway (I just put it into my Netflix queue, it should be fun). She was at least as memorable as the old Noxzema “Take it off, take it all off” girl from my early teens .
How about Bisquick (edit: This was totally a joke, no disrespect intended)? lol Café au lait? I think when I get mine, I’ll just call it “AWESOME!!” :heart_eyes:
In general, it is quite interesting firmware.
I’ll try it now flash in the Convoy C8.
From the description, I did not quite understand how the adjustment, but I think I can figure out.
What FUSE?
Why did you decide to abandon the separate control group of chips AMC7135?
1*7135 in the fifth leg, 2*7135 in the second, the other on the sixth leg of the microcontroller?
Bistroy ?
I like what is done here, true customer feedback engineering (if that makes any sense in my oh-so not native language…)
I like Bistro UI but can’t really enjoy it because of my uncontrollable taste for Turbo mode with 30Q…
It should, actually. FET drivers just crowbar the battery across the LED with minimal resistance, measured in milliohms (mΩ), so the voltage they’d drop would be negligible (Vf ~ Vb), vs 7135s which drop the difference between Vf of the LED at that current and the battery voltage, or about 0.1V (100mV) minimum. So 4.2V from a fresh cell and 3.6V Vf is a 600mV difference (vs much less with the FET).
Drive a red XP-E (~2V) with 7135s, and they’ll all join hands and limit current by soaking up all that excess voltage and burning it off as heat. Crowbar the battery directly across it with a DD FET driver, and the poor XP-E will die a horrible fiery death.
If it can be easily added, why not make it a option. $1 extra for cut out slit tail cap. I think it would do well. For those that have tried cut out slit tail caps, you won’t go back to regular ones.
No matter how recessed the switch is, you should still be able to turn on with gloves. But the cut outs just make it so much more comfortable and easier.
Huge thanks to the team that made this light and this firmware happen! Just flashed a S2+ with the mini-bistro and it is pretty much the most amazing piece of software I have seen on this light. Works out of the box on the S2+ with RMM’s Moonlight Special v3 driver and 4x 7135 (380mA).
