Very interesting indeed. I know TK mentioned that when using 3 PWM channels she could not get them to run below like 31khz or something like that? Did you run into the same issue or is the PWM the same as normal? It is a possible explanation anyways.
I am glad these appear to be working out, I built another one, so far no issues, although my AC went out and have not felt like doing much of anything with ~90 degree temps with 80-90% humidity INSIDE the house lol.
Yes, there should be a video on how to design the pattern, the design itself was really simple to learn, took a bit longer to figure out how the “libraries” are setup, doesn’t really “flow” with what I would have expected but not a big deal once you figure it out. I recommend creating a user components library to keep all the custom parts from the start.
If the video is not there, then search youtube, I learned how to do it from a video somewhere.
The 380 mA 7135's have more issues - can't get as low PWM's as you can with 350's. No, I'm using full max PWM's of 15.6K on 350's. Don't think there's PWM issues...
I always use 350mA versions myself, the little bit of extra you get out of the 380 is not worth the price increase to me. Plus I always use FET + 7135 drivers so I never have an issue with needing more power.
Ok, just got the voltage calibration for a 22k R1 resistor completed on a Texas Avenger driver. Initial calibration was set with my DPS3012 power supply and I tested it with various batteries at several voltages and everything lined up in the working driver great. So here is the updated 22k R1 calibration file if anyone is interested:
Also here is my latest working revision of Bistro Tripledown, not 100% I am done tweaking it yet but it is pretty close to the end goal I am personally looking for. So far I have found no bugs or issues with it.
I changed the mode groups around some to better fit with the triple channel setup, I also added a 10th mode and removed the fancy flasher in order to allow for a single 7135 and all 7135’s only mode, which I find useful in some lights where the FET is simply not needed. Not sure what other changes there are other then that, kinda forgot at this point lol.
Anyone know if you can use ramping as a mode in bistro? I tried it and it will ramp, but I can’t get it to select my desired brightness. I’m thinking it must just be to visually test the ramp table as stated in the .c file. Is it difficult to get it to respond to a press while ramping so the user can select the desired brightness?
Correct, the ramping in Bistro is only for testing, there is no way to make it stop at a set point. Although with a Tiny85 this should be entirely possible.
In fact with the current features that narsil offers it could almost be made into a clicky firmware without much work.
Imagine TK and TomE teaming up on a single project, there is only one word for that, Epic.
The issue would be having enough space even on a tiny 85.
Just reflowed a 17mm with the 85. The MCU pin pads are actually quite wide, wider than needed for a 13A, but the 85 pins barely touch the pads, so I bend in one side, maybe slight bend in on the other. Here's how it came out, all buzzed out so no shorts or problems, but not tested yet:
Not sure what light I'll put it in yet, but should do well in a piggyback mount. The PCB is a thin one, 2oz, as I ordered from OSHPark.
Correct, the 17mm has the normal 150 mil SOIC8 pads as there is simply no room for the 209mil pads. The 209mil pads start on the 20mm boards and everything on up.
I tried fitting it on the 17mm but it just wasn’t happening.
Now that the weather finally cooled down I am able to get some work done again. (Thats Texas for ya, 83 LOW temp one day and 70’s HIGH the next) With no AC, the weather is what temp the house is lol.
I got a triple 219c S2+ built today. It works great. I replaced a prior attempt to build this light with a tripledown but every time it tried to engage the FET it would shut off, voltage spike I am sure due to the 17A current draw.
The new layout from DEL works just as it should the new Avenger triggers the FET without a hitch. Pulls ~17A and is making just under 3000 lumens.
Interestingly, it was pulling around ~16A previously with an FET+1 driver but only making around ~2400 lumens. The difference is that I machined out the bezel to clear the TIR reflectors and not cut off the outside edge of them. Apparently that is worth ~500 lumens. I have another XP-L Hi S2 that I will be doing the same thing to, I am interested to see if it sees the same results.
Yeah, I was impressed considering it is using 219c’s (and not the 320 binned ones that RMM sells now, the older 280 bin ones). Good tint and a floody but usable beam.
It really shocked me the difference that machining the bezel made, I figured it would hardly be noticeable but 500+ lumens (think it was closer to 2300 lumens before mods) says it made a difference for sure.
I am curious to see what the XP-L version with the same treatment does, I will have to get some better before numbers on this one. Also makes me think about what I could do with the 320 bin 219c’s I have here or even the XG-G3’s.
Yeah, I noticed the 0805 components, tight fit for sure but it does seem to fit. The 0603 components look a lot nicer and they are not nearly as crowded but for those that already have 0805 it is nice to not have to buy all new parts just to try these. With the way we keep adding things to drivers I have a feeling that 0603 will be the new standard size.
We should be able to drop C2. I think DEL's last thoughts seems less emphasis to need it. The 4.7 ohm resistor made the big difference, think he said it kind of made the C2 cap obsolete.
I saw that post although I would like to hear his direct thoughts on a custom driver such as this. I think the post you are referring to was directed at someone hacking together some kind of franken driver. Last I saw him say about a purposes built driver was C2 was very important?
I have one of these built now and running modified bistro tripledown. One question I have always had: why do we shut off channel one and two and only use the fet for the highest mode? Wouldn’t more channels open mean less resistance and more power to the led? I’m sure it doesn’t otherwise we would be doing it, but anyone know the reason?
I would love to have Narsil on my to be modded Courui with planned SST 90.
And well I prefer a driver that fits nice in rge light instead of using the default driver just for let power go through, I have the idea that a neatly fitting driver can pass heat of the components to the housing and is thus better.
