So far you’re making a really good impression 
People are going to expect so much from your lights! 
Very true, just the other night we were exploring a creek after dark and playing with a hefty selection of lights.
An interesting comparison was the L6 vs S70. While they are virtually the same in lumens (S70 is slightly higher actually) and Kcd. When tested in the real world the S70 would throw a good ways but everything was washer out and at the far reaches of throw it was very hard to make out any details, you could just tell where the shore was and that was about it.
The L6 on the other hand was not even a high CRI, just a higher CRI and warmer 3A tint. At the same distance you could see the bushes, the rocks and the water quite easily. Even I was surprised how much of a difference it made with just a slightly warmer LED. My current king thrower is a DO1 with a ~5A XP-L high and it is amazing how well it cuts through the night and how clearly you can see what you are looking at compared to my other 1A tint throwers.
I am now on a high CRI kick and planning on swapping most of my lights over to them as soon as I find a good source.
/Off topic.
man I’m excited.
if this light beat Acebeam K70 in term of throw then i will get one for sure 
Wow, can’t wait for this to hit the streets! I hope it has a reasonable price tag and that it comes in with an option for something in the 4500k tint range. I suspect in the real world a SMO reflector would work great, who wall hunts with a light like this???
My D01 is fairly warm, de-domed XM-L2 and it really has good target definition and color rendition compared to other throwers that I own. I would guess it to be somewhere around 4500k, started as a 0D.
Stocked XHP70s are N4 CW 6500K CRI68 and N2 NW 5000K CRI80… What CRI number we can call it High CRI? above 85 or 90?
I think what we call “High” usually means 90, though 80 is a good start
5000K CRI80 sounds quite nice. You lose about 20 % output when going all the way up to 90+, so 80 is a good middle ground.
80cri is better then most but high CRI doesn’t really start till 90+ CRI around here. People also generally like it a bit warmer as well, 4000-4500k on the rosy side is a very popular tint for high CRI LED’s (or LED’s in general honestly).
I would take the 80cri over the 68 100% but I would also take a 90 CRI over the 80. On a light like this, lumens are not really an issue, a loss of a few hundred lumens is hardly even noticeable so I would gladly trade them for a better tint and CRI.
Yes, please don’t go to the evil green side of the black body radiator line
High CRI will gain you lots of sales to BLF people, but I must say I would consider it a poor choice to get rid of those other two tint options. 6500k and 5000k will cover most of the market for this light, as it seems the people that impulse buy because of “LUMENZZZ” just want the highest output no matter what, or some people simply like the cooler tints.
A 4000k 90cri option will get you some of the more particular buyers, and put you in the good graces of this forum. More tint options are always very welcomed.
This is where it starts to get quite personal. Maybe they could offer custom emitter options where a small premium is charged, but the LED (s) can be chosen for the light and built to order. Building a bunch as a stocked option seems like a way to get stuck with a lot of unsold lights.
Yes, you have some very good choices for LED’s as it is, do not get rid of those. I would simply suggest adding another high CRI and slightly warmer option to the table. 3 tint options is a good range that covers 99% of peoples needs.
My personal favorite is CRI >90 and around 5000K.
I will gladly pay a premium for high CRI.
The problem is that the remaining 1% are all present here on this forum expressing their opinions. “5050K is definitely too cold, I think 4950K is perfect. No, no, no 92 CRI is not high CRI, 93 CRI is high CRI. I want one click, two click, three click and hoooold for moonlight, click hold hold click and click three times for lock out. No I think click click hold, click click hold should be lockout. I want two click turbo, but single click for real super turbo.”
Man we’re going to drive you nuts HaikeLite! Turn around and run! Run before we drive you nuts!
Ok, but after we send you money and you send us tracking info. Thanks!
Please note that there are virtually no throwers or headlamps with high CRI on the market, so there you would have an open goal.
Yes, you have to take what this place says with the understanding that we will pick apart ANYTHING and try to make it better.
Just because someone suggests something doesn’t mean you have to use it but it would be wise to consider it.
The key is getting on here early enough in the design cycle to really be able to use the suggestions easily, to sift through all the cross talk and find those few gems that truly add value and increase the lights sellability.
It sounds like in this case they know what they are doing and have a very good base to work from for the host. I would not doubt that they have been snooping around here a lot longer then when they posted this thread :innocent:
Heck while your at it throw a MTG-2 emitter option in there as well!
Update:
Roughly-made switch in this sample
And the big and deep reflector , Size: 78mmx68mm
Roughly-made battery-carrier in Testing sample (custom-made springs and contact copper rings will come back tomorrow, then i will update the OP and measure the led drain)
The switches look great
The reflector looks impressive
But that tail looks like you need to make one hole bigger and one of the guiding rods also, this way the cap only fits one way (or make one rod and hole smaller that’ll do too)
Other version for XHP35 Hi + SMO reflector ?