After reading PilotPTK project with 24xml, I am embarrassing posting this thread
I am doing for my sport ATV- quad a little better lights for driving at night through wood
Since my alternator cant handle aditional very high consumer i decided to go for 6 pcs XML T6
Power supply-driver will be linear supply, since I have not many knowledge in SMPS drivers
First i thought to use DX 57779 driver :
but after testing - it is generating a lot of heat that i cant chill down because of stupid design of this driver, decided to go with NFET linear power supply @ cca 2,7 Amps to LED
All components are glued with thermal glue to heatsink
I glued it with some epoxy resin :
Tomorow will be housing over from CNC, it will look like this :
Holes are for ALU reflectors
It will be closed with Lexan polycarbonat glass.
I will psot images when housing will came from CNC tomorow
Nothing at all to be embarrassed about there - looks like a nice project. I will warn you though, on an ATV under high vibration, those solder joins WILL fail - Not if - just when. You absolutely must wrap the smaller leads around the larger ones and then use solder to seal the joint. Solder makes a terrible mechanical joint. Electrical = Good, Mechanical = BAD. I would be shocked if they lasted more than a few hours in actual use on the ATV.
Otherwise, I'll follow with interest - it's a cool project.
PPtk
Correct Soldering Method for Leaded Components:
Wrap Leads
This resin i assume it will keep all together .. I have regler that is made from the same resin without any rubber and it is working very good for long time.
But yes, vibrations are very high on this quad, and i am aware from beggining of this project that I will have problems :)
But i will try to make some rubber mounting bracket when mounting ....
This Q i got here in croatia a few times on CRO forums...
but costs are too much .. for 10-20 pcs maybe it will be lower for 20% but still very high, so there is no space for some profit in it.
Only this CNC with Aluminium cost me cca. 230$
Plus heatsink for power supply, electronics, wires, epoxy, ALU reflectors, diodes, LEXAN cover, anodizing and my work to assemble all ...when you calculate all, you get very nice high numbers :)
Yup, the black driver heat sink is what I'm wondering about. I'm afraid of any DIY project that requires a substantial heat sink because heat sinks here are notoriously expensive, and have been for years, provided you can even find one. Usually the price of the heat sink is at least equal to the combined price of the rest of the components. I know I probably don't know where to look, and that is why I'm asking. Using CPU heat sinks is one way to circumvent this, but those are 'spensive as well.
Driver is constant current regulator, i can set output level, but only when designing the circuit. Difference between this and SMPS (I assume that in all hand torch light are SMPS with PWM) is in effiency, SMPS is more efficient so it doesnt need huge heatsink in short.
holes will be on the sides, mounted with some L profiles that i must make with some rubber to absorb vibrations.
In this picture you can see Aluminium reflectors that I yesterday machined to go in holes on H7 tolerance.
I will mount them on the press with the 2 component thermal glue for heatsinks, so it can disipate heat on the heatsink very well.
There are a great many torches that use Linear regulators. AMC7135 based drivers are perfect examples. I don't have hard data to quote, but my suspicion is that more torches have linear drivers than switch mode ones.. PWM works just fine with linear parts (Once again, AMC7135 being perfect examples).
Hmm I am actually coming to Croatia on Sunday (Will probably have to work because I am a sailor and the ship calls there).
The port is called Omisalj. Never been there before so I am kind of hoping that I can go ashore. Being the boss should ensure that - but then there is maintenance on the main engine and if we get a permission to do it there then it is a no-go...
