A Solarforce L2 SS, with the "famous" Manafont/Ultrafire XM-L dropin (3-mode) is mainly used as a bike light (with a twofish mount), for the last 14 months, for about 300Km per month (more than an hour daily, for 20 days per month)
I noticed (on a parallel ride with the friend) that the beam (on all modes) is flickering (not a lot, but still visible)
Tried to clean and re-lube contacts, tighten dropin and switch, but the problem remains...
I'm beginning to think there must be a "contact" problem within the XM-L pill, so I'm thinking options:
a. Open the pill, check connections and soldering - re-solder, if needed
b. Buy a new P60 dropin, which should be POTTED, to avoid similar problems in the future...
Any suggestions?
Can the existing dropin been potted easily (after examination)? How?
My first suspect is a faulty switch. Remove the switch and short the tailend of the body with the negative battery terminal using DMM test leads or any conductor. See if the flickering is still there.
Do you also see flicker on high when its not moving, at home for example? The other modes might flicker due to PWM.. but if high also does that, somethings wrong. Maybe too much play between cell and springs or a faulty driver.
Personally, I would advise against the McClicky in your case. Not just because of the pricetag, but also because I am not sure whether or not the thread size would fit on a solarforce torch (on the L2Rs that have gone through my hands over the past ten months, I have found three different thread sizes internally, now). Other than that, a McClicky is just and fine for the $urefire fanboys (got one on my 6P as well... true and proven drawer queen. Haven't even looked at it since... september '11?)
Since late august of last year, I am using one of SolarForces "3A-rated" tailcap switches - so far, it works absolutely flawlessly; and it was much more affordable than the infamous McClicky (which, again, is a nice thing; just so not to tick off any Don McLeish followers). Check out their website, both of their black HA- (type III) anodised tailcaps with the stainless crowns have served me well.
Definitely go and check your pill. I have had a total of four (!!!) solarforce dropins dying in the past six months; one on my own L2R (XP-G, one-mode), and three more (XM-L T6, fiver) on those I gave to friends. In my case, the driver board cracked because of SF's ingeniously high pressure from the old L2R's tailcap spring; it literally forced the cells into the pill. Flickered for about a day, then it went dead. On my friends' flashlights - I don't know.