Tailcap for 504b.

I finally bought a UF-504b w/ an xml dropin. It's a good, solid light with almost a surefire-feel to it for less than $13.00. What a steal.

The only minus would be the really long clickie tailcap. The button guard is way too high making it difficult to do a normal thumb press w/o having to readjust the position so that I'm pressing it with the tip of my thumb.

I tried my polymer G2's tailcap and it works but only in momentary. My C2 & C3's tailcaps fit nicely but they don't work at all.

I'm willing to spend upto an additional $10 for a replacement (for a $13 light...sheesh lol).

Thanks guys

Is this one of the Dino Direct ones? I had problems with the switches on the 504B and the C1 host I got from Dino Direct. If it is you can use this forward clicky or reverse clicky.

http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1482

http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1428

Any of the Solarforce tail caps will fit a 504B.

I'm a Surefire C Format nut and I can honestly say that no budget clone manufacturer has ever come out with a tailcap as short as the Surefire Z41 with the exception of the original Ultrafire C1 tailcap (their Surefire C2 clone...and even that has changed since they first introduced it) and the Skyray clone of the Lumensfactory Seraph (which won't match in finish or form). All the Solarforce tailcaps are on the long/big side as well with exeption to maybe the one that comes with their L2T (forgot the model name). You could replace the stock innards on a Surefire Z44 with a Oveready McClicky kit, but that'll surely cost more than $10. Honestly I don't think there's much of a solution if it's about size and price. If the switch if faulty, I'd just do what E suggested and replace the stock switch innards.

Thanks guys...

E, yeah i got it from dinodirect. The switch itself functions fine, its just that the shroud around the clickie is too long making it dificult to use. Ill look into the solarforce caps.

Ace, i sure wish my c2's cap would work cuz it looks very nice on the 504b. I could of course just use the drop-in in the c2, but i would have to use 17670s or bore out the body.

But clickie length aside, its a great light for $13.

This Solarforce one off my L2M works good and looks really nice.

Personally I always thought it was funny that people complain about shrouds as I've always prefer tailstandability and don't mind repositioning my thumb to be more pointy to activate, but to each their own. So if it is moreso about the shroud and not so much the overall length, then E's suggestion of using the standard Solarforce L2 tailcap would be a fine low cost option.

Got a 502b from ebay. really liked the built and finishing. The quality was great for a $13 flashlight. However, tarted to have problems with flickering light after shortly. I realised that the slightest touch on the tail cap would cause the electric flow to be intermittent. After removing the switch retention ring and cleaning / oiling the tailcap few times, it didn't recover.

Out of anger, I placed a stripped copper wire across the switch plate connections shorting between the springs and tied the retention ring now.

It is working now. on my bike.. But to switch modes. I have got to remove the cap and tap onto the body till i got the modes i want.

silly me...

Im with you bro. I like lights this size to tailstand.

If the button was flush with the shrould, it would be all good. But as is, its a good 4 or 5 mm beyond. It makes activation a bit tedious i guess considering it should just be just "bam!"' and its on. Lol. No overhand to cigar gripping or no "remember the shrould" chants in my head. My uf g10 and uf 2100 have buttons that are flush with their shrouds.

E, that sf cap looks good. You happen to have a V20 sheath? :)