makes sense..it's just really is awkward..to think I got 2 more of these drivers coming i'll have to get used to it lol
A friend of mine has a little problem:
He changed the driver of a DX XML light, but the spring of the driver is to short - the battery has not a good contact to it.
First solution: Solder a longer spring on the driver, but we do not have such springs. The springs of other drivers are to wide.
Has anyone an idea?
Light up the darkness.
Read post #87 above.
Cheap quality is good - Expensive crap isn´t
Thank you. I must be blind because I don't notice your post.
I ha the copper wire and didn't like it cus it would change modes when bumped..check out my thread on the spring mod..you can use anything to salvage a spring..I used an old remote control but anything that takes batteries is sure to have a spring in it..
"like everyone else - I’m looking for my next “last” flashlight" - ohnonothimagain
I got this driver (the C-Type) and put it into my "experimental" flashlight (Ultrafire u-80 XML). I used it with two modes
100% was 2800 mA and runs on 2800mAh Soshine for about 50 min, second mode was about 100mA. After the fifty mins of full power it switches back to the lower mode and blinks each 5 seconds.
The brightness was great but it not make sense in my opinion because just 50 mins of runtime is too short. So i decided to make less power by ripping of half of the 7135, and make a 3 mode light.
The result is as follows:
0,05 Amps guess 20 Lumens for about 50 hours
0,44 Amps guess 170 Lumens for about 5 hours
1,44 Amps guess 480 Lumens for about 100 mins
You can do that, yes. Or, you could spend 10$ to a USB AVR programmer and use it to flash the Atmel chip and get any brightness you want from less than 1 lumens all the way to 800+ lumens. It's not hard and you don't need to ne a computer programmer to do it. I have never written a line on code in my life, but still I was able to flash it using instructions here. There's no going back to factory drivers for me. The lowest mode of those are usually brighter than I want as mid.
καὶ τὸ φῶς ἐν τῇ σκοτίᾳ φαίνει καὶ ἡ σκοτία αὐτὸ οὐ κατέλαβεν
the 105 is a good choice, if you need (or want ) 2,8A - for example to get a real bright XM-L. Runtime isn't the important point, if you want 2,8A.
If you need 1,4A or 1,5A, you can buy a cheaper driver - for example the one of this thread (5 of them cost $13,71 and you can modd them to 3 modes):
For anybody who wants to know, the one i've ordered 3 weeks ago is delivered with a Attiny13A
Its more the fun of modding .
I´m a software developer and so i just ordered the ATMEL stuff to modify the driver by myself.
Thanx for the advice.
I checked the thread and gave up soon. Is there a really simplified guide how to program these chips along with the stuff needed? I would love to program my Ak-47 drivers.
They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.
maybe in 2 weeks, when the stuff arrives
Still not all that easy. I wrote up a guide on the Flashlight Wiki based on the information in the thread which I think helps, but I haven't gotten a reliable clip to attach to the chip yet. I've been through 2 of them at $12 each and now have a third one on the way for $20. I did make some progress with my second clip and was able to upload a program to a chip. I'd like to modify the program, but that's no picnic either.
The NANJG 1.4A and 2.8A drivers set to 3 modes are so close to exactly what I want anyway, that I don't know how much utility there is in programming my own driver, but I'm still drawn in by the possibility of a Low that can be set to anything you want including barely lit. If I could get 2 modes, with the Low being able to be set fairly easily, that would be about perfect.
The downside is that you can't have it memorize a mode based on how long the light is turned off without adding hardware components to these NANJG drivers.
This is where the magic happens. That page is worth it's weight in gold. I was able to flash chips using only that page and so will every one else.
And as I stated in page 6 of the "how to build light with perfect modes"-topic, the clip is not necessarily needed. I got it - the cheapest one from ebay - but soon fuond it useless. Then I just soldered the corner wires straight to the chip (not nearly as hard as it might sound, check the picture from that thread) and connected the remaining two wires directly to the pins by hand. And asked wife to come hit the enter on the command prompt. It can be done without a wife also, but it's more difficult. All the soldering/unsoldering action is not that hard and time consuming as one might think. It's good if one needs to flash only couple of chips. As I have done it quite a few times now, I can unsolder the driver-pill connection, open the pill, solder the wires, flash the chip, unsolder the wires and solder the pill back together in less than 15 minutes. I have to admit I have destroyed 2 drivers when practising, but now I can do it with no problem. Cost of loss about 5 dollars.
I have had no success in editing the code, however. It's always 3 modes with memory no matter what I try to do to get 4 modes without memory. But well... I'm just clueless what comes to writing code. And still, 3 modes including crazy low and possibility to program the modes to your own liking makes it pretty close to perfect anyway.
By hardware you mean a hold-up capacitor, right?
There's actually a capacitor, resistor, and a diode.There's a picture in comment 177:
I just installed this driver, along with an XM-L U2(unfortunately, it didn't fit in my Romisen RC-D6 pocket rocket, so an Ultrafire C8 host had to do while I get another small RCR123A host ), but I'm only getting high. You think I might have fried the microcontroller somehow? I've wired it up like this:
[edit: problem solved - wrong wire connection]
Moving electrons to light my way.
- is on the solder blop left to the second 7135.
Ouch, that mistake made me feel foolish. And because the driver was such a tight fit(even had to sand it down quite a bit), I can't remove it from the heatsink now. I think this light will have to remain a 1-mode until I get a hold of something thin and solid that can poke the driver out through the holes where the wire goes to the LED.
Thanks for clearing it up for me.
You might want to change your graphic or delete it so someone doesn't get the wrong idea. It's true that the negative connection is the pad on the upper left next to the 7135.
Nice call - It's gone now .
I managed to pry the driver free from the host, and now everything works as it's supposed to. I have to get used to the memory mode, though.
Thanks, I was also in doubt for a while.
guys, I have lost the C1 on my 105C, probably got ripped away while modding lights:( does it affect something? do I need to replace it (if yes, with what capacity)?
It's just a buffer cap for suppressing noise on the MCU's voltage supply. These caps are usually in the 10nF - 100nF range. The driver will probably work without it, but you might see some random erratic behaviour.
Does anyone know the difference between NANJG 105A & NANJG 105C
It seems that 105A kept changing for a period.
The price difference is quite high, for 2 x 105C I can buy 3 x 105A , and I want to buy a 2-3 of these.
Is it possible to buy 105A and get the 105C ?
I don't think they make the 105A or 105B any more, I think it is 105C only now. I believe it is like a revision letter. I hope the 105D comes out soon I have been getting some bad 105Cs lately.
I am already visualizing the duct tape over your mouth.
Now the links are working.
Then why the $2 in price difference? 105A appears available, check the first link.
What do you mean bad 105Cs, not working or, you have to clean the solder....?
Then why the $2 in price difference? 105A appear available, check the first link.
Got some bad non working ones in my last order, mode issues.
Your links don't work.
Still not working ?
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