Summer’s here. That means my woodworking hobby gets shelved for a few months so I can go out and enjoy the outdoors. This means camping, BBQs, lying on the beach, hiking with my GSD, fishing, boating, etc. This also means it’s time to take out the rifle, disassemble, clean, and see what’s new gadgets in the market (infrared/magnification/laser/scope/thingymaggigy). The plan is to diy a blue led P60 to be mounted on the rifle.
Here’s the plan:
Bought a few 7090 XR-E Royal Blue D4s from LED DNA.
I have a supply of copper pills but need some reflectors the sport the XR-E. All the reflectors I have are for XM-L. Question is, “do I need the new reflectors or will my XM-L reflectors work in terms of putting out a fairly acceptable beam profile”?
Never put together an XR-E before, only replaced them with XM-L along with a harder driven driver. Question is, “how hard can I drive this LED?” The data sheet says the recommendated max forward current is 1000mA but I’ve seen some people drive theirs much higher towards 1500mA or even up to 2000mA. “How high would you drive yours?” I’m sure there is some lost in efficency with the driver, wiring, switch, etc. 20% lost sound reasonable?
Anyways this is supposed to be a fun project. I don’t know how useful it will be on a rifle and might just use it for night airsoft play. I love to hear your suggestions, opinions, & recommendations.
Seems that newer white XR-E's can take direct drive easy. My Q5 pulls 2.2A on DD without problem.
Can't be sure about your royal blue though. And I don't think many people buys blue light. I believe PilotPTK built one, perhaps you can PM him, or direct him to this thread.
Ah.. thanks for the info. I expected they should be the same - probably even the same die since the white is practically blue coated with phosphor. So the uncoated blue just goes to a different bin (D4).
Has anyone dedomed an XR-E to get the blue version?
Only accidentially.. and it only worked half-way. I ripped only half of the phosphor off, so it looked weird. I tried to scratch the rest off and thereby ruined the die.
Also, I dont believe all this "new XRE/old XRE" stuff.. I have to say that I dont own any of the newest XREs but my old EZ900 XRE pulls up to 2.5A and 2 of my EZ1000 went straight to 2.8A..
Halfway dedome is the worst way you don't get either quality, just the weird part.
XR-E has been around quite a while. Thrower builders at CPF has been discussing this many times, I remember older CPF threads where they can never push XR-E beyond 1.5A else it turns blue (overdriven). Well, here I am right now running around blasting the Q5 at 2.2A for 20minutes with no problem at all, so there must be a difference.
I have at least a dozen XRE I pulled out of lights I upgraded including the old C-88 and they max out at 1.5 amps. I can mail you a C-88 XRE if you want I have a half dozen of them.
I was honestly shocked the first time I hooked up a new XRE R2 up and it read 2.8 amps.
Well guys I got a XR-E to pull 6 amps… but it died few seconds later, and before dying it converted from light emitter to smoke emitter =[
It’s just Vf lottery, if you get emitter with low Vf it pulls more amps than emitter with higher Vf. No “old/new” batches, or magic of any kind.
Yes, that is true, but that does not explain why XR-E's over a year ago will die at 1.7A. And nobody has any success stories at the time over 1.5A. And these are from the guys that build killer throwers, they knew what they were doing.
At minimum, the quality must have improved over the last year such that it allows for lower Vf and withstand higher amps.
you don't get either quality, just the weird part.