Review: UltraFire HD2010
Sun, 07/01/2012 - 22:06
UltraFire HD2010: 26650 Powerhouse
After swimming in one too many threads of heated debate having little or nothing to do about flashlights, talking about the pure performance of this 26650 cannon is a pleasure. The HD2010 is a powerful flashlight. It is the brightest single emitter torch in my (comparatively) modest collection. An odd thing I do; as I come near pulling the trigger, I try to avoid other reviews on the light I plan to purchase. It was a complete surprise then, when it measured over five amps at the tail cap. I honestly had no idea. Output alone does not a great flashlight make however and my HD2010 is not perfect. Even so, it is still . . . .
Foyapproved
Bottom line: The UltraFire HD2010 has easily defined strengths and weaknesses. It has blinding output and spectacular throw. Robust construction and effective thermal management means the HD2010 can be used on high until the battery needs a recharge, with no worries. I turned it on high for one hour and twenty minutes and the exterior never got above 118º. Except during testing, the HD2010 worked perfectly with no hicups or odd UI behavior I must also report that my particular HD2010 was not front-line ready, as delivered from Tmart. Not a single o-ring on the light was thick enough to make significant contact. The reflector has several small chips/scratches and the light has the overall appearance of having rolled around in someone's RV for a year or so. I would expect this condition from a used flashlight, purchased from a forum member at a discount. Not a brand new product costing $42. When I spend that much (or even less) at Int'l Outdoor or Solarforce, with rare exception, I receive a flawless flashlight. The other side of it is; your $42 (now $38) gets you one hell of a bright torch. Its shortcomings are of the easy-to-fix variety and the HD2010's performance is so good, I'm quickly making peace with its few flaws.
What I like:
- (very) bright
- throw
- heat management
- pill o-ring
- works with 18650 and 26650 batteries
- straightforward design/aesthetics
What I do not like:
- rubbed off/scratched anodization, not a new light (looks like it was sold, returned and sold again)
- reflector scratches/imperfections
- inadequate o-rings, throughout
- emitter slightly off-center
UltraFire HD2010: 26650 Powerhouse
After swimming in one too many threads of heated debate having little or nothing to do about flashlights, talking about the pure performance of this 26650 cannon is a pleasure. The HD2010 is a powerful flashlight. It is the brightest single emitter torch in my (comparatively) modest collection. An odd thing I do; as I come near pulling the trigger, I try to avoid other reviews on the light I plan to purchase. It was a complete surprise then, when it measured over five amps at the tail cap. I honestly had no idea. Output alone does not a great flashlight make however and my HD2010 is not perfect. Even so, it is still . . . .
Foyapproved
Bottom line: The UltraFire HD2010 has easily defined strengths and weaknesses. It has blinding output and spectacular throw. Robust construction and effective thermal management means the HD2010 can be used on high until the battery needs a recharge, with no worries. I turned it on high for one hour and twenty minutes and the exterior never got above 118º. Except during testing, the HD2010 worked perfectly with no hicups or odd UI behavior I must also report that my particular HD2010 was not front-line ready, as delivered from Tmart. Not a single o-ring on the light was thick enough to make significant contact. The reflector has several small chips/scratches and the light has the overall appearance of having rolled around in someone's RV for a year or so. I would expect this condition from a used flashlight, purchased from a forum member at a discount. Not a brand new product costing $42. When I spend that much (or even less) at Int'l Outdoor or Solarforce, with rare exception, I receive a flawless flashlight. The other side of it is; your $42 (now $38) gets you one hell of a bright torch. Its shortcomings are of the easy-to-fix variety and the HD2010's performance is so good, I'm quickly making peace with its few flaws.
What I like:
- (very) bright
- throw
- heat management
- pill o-ring
- works with 18650 and 26650 batteries
- straightforward design/aesthetics
What I do not like:
- rubbed off/scratched anodization, not a new light (looks like it was sold, returned and sold again)
- reflector scratches/imperfections
- inadequate o-rings, throughout
- emitter slightly off-center
UltraFire HD2010 XM-L/T6 26650 Flashlight
$42.00 Tmart http://www.tmart.com/UItraFire-CREE-XMLT6-8W-1300-Lumen-5-Mode-LED-Flashlight-Gray_p135765.html
15 day turnaround:
5-24-12 ordered
5-27-12 "acceptance"
5-28-12 processed through sort facility - Bejing, China, People's replublic
5-30-12 processed through sort facility - ISC, New York, New York (USPS)
6-6-12 Bethpage, New York
6-7-12 Bethpage, New York
6-8-12 Las Vegas, Nevada (6:36 am)
6-8-12 notice left on my door for pick-up - Las Vegas, Nevada (5:59 pm)
Cree XM-L/T6 emitter
SMO reflector (52mm)
designed for 1 x 26650 or 1 x 18650 lithium-ion rechargeable battery
4.2 volts (max)
aluminum construction
"gray" anodization
tactical, tail-standing reverse clicky tail cap switch, one "foot" drilled for lanyard with 16mm GITD boot (replaced)
5-mode user interface, descending high, medium, low, fast strobe and SOS with no mode memory (always powers up on high)
selected manufacturer specifications:
"1,300 lumens"
8 watts
coated glass lens
"with waterproof function"
162mm (length) 63mm (head diameter) 35mm (body diameter)
341g
what you get for $42.00:
- HD2010 flashlight
- 18650 sleeve
- lame lanyard
Tail cap draw with one unprotected King Kong 26650 (INR) charged to 4.20 volts:
high: 4.70 to 5.0 amps
with one protected Solarforce 18650/2400:
high: 4.25 to 4.60 amps
Strangely, while testing tail cap amps, light would come on high or fast strobe only. (??)
Run time test: on high
| time | Foyometer reading |
| KK INR charged to 4.23 volts | dimly lit office reading=25 |
| :00 | 164 |
| 1 minute | 141 (sag) |
| 10 minutes | 136 |
| 20 minutes | 135 |
| 30 minutes | 135 |
| 40 minutes | 132 |
| 50 minutes | 132 |
| 1 hour | 129 |
| 1 hour, 10 minutes | 126 |
| 1 hour, 20 minutes | 120 |
| battery at 3.44 volts |
Please forgive these less than ideal pictures. It's been 105º to 109º every day for the last few weeks and Foy's mood sours at the prospect of a 90 minute heat soak/photography session.
The HD2010 is a familiar UltraFire design with low-cut knurling on the body and tail cap. The head is quite thick with two smaller cooling rings cut at the bottom and two larger fins further up, the lower one of these being smaller . . . .
With the screw-in pill, this good chunk of aluminum seems to wick away five amps of heat quite well . . . .
Like every o-ring supplied with the light, I had to replace this one because it made almost no contact with the head. Not all lights have an o-ring around the pill so, I do like that.
The pill screws in from the top and with mine at least, I had to snug it down all the way then back it off about a quarter turn to get the centering ring completely against the reflector bottom. Even with the centering ring by the way, the emitter on mine is slightly off.
Speaking of reflectors; I would certainly expect a few less defects on a brand new flashlight. That said, using eyes instead of a macro lens, it doesn't look too bad and seems to effect performance not at all.
Turtle is still there.
I doubled up the o-rings on the tube and it feels nice and tight now. The threads on this torch are just okay. Nothing special.
The tube can be installed either way . . . .
I replaced the GITD faux pas with a super hip n' trendy blue boot. The worn off anodization you see is exactly how I received the light.
Beginer Foy: tail cap spring plungers = quality.
Apprentice Foy: tail cap spring plungers reduce spring pressure/current = unnecessary and stupid.
Except on this guy, the cap is actually attached to the spring so, the collar had to go. The collar held the spring probably about a half inch lower. I guess a plunger might be a good idea if they were longer and/or installed so that spring travel is not affected. Until then, Foyprotocol demands their dismissal.
Some quality issues that bother me . . . .
It's hard for me to believe this light was not previously owned. If those aren't tweezer/tool marks, Foy has a slim stomach . . . .
What bothers me most is this too-much-like-paint flaking around the edge. A brand new $42 flashlight . . . .
. . . . otherwise, machine work is pretty good . . . .
All the parts apart.
Okay; I'm done dissing this light. He's actually a handsome fellow . . . .
Whitewall with the HD2010 on the left and M8 on the right. The M8's "hybrid" reflector is evident and both lights have a greenish corona.
Here's what Foy loves about the HD2010; it redeems itself when you turn it on.
All shots were taken with a 1/4 second shutter speed @f2.7, the damn street lamp was on and there was a full moon.
Solarforce M8 with 2 x unprotected Panasonic 18650.
Ultrafire HD2010 with one unprotected King Kong 26650. (XSL)
I love comparisons like this. No debating over "does that twig have less of a shadow . . .?" even with my bad aim. A respected, high performance thrower (the M8) that costs $75 gets its booty bounced by a $42 UltraFire. They throw almost the same, the difference is; the HD2010 has more to throw.
It's hard not to like a torch this bright that throws like a wing light on a 747. I also can't imagine anyone buying an HD2010 and not liking it. A lot.
Foy
Sun, 07/01/2012 - 22:18
#2
Damn, Foy! Another light
Damn, Foy! Another light where my example was flawless and yours looks ridden hard before sold to you. 
Glad you still like it though. 
Sun, 07/01/2012 - 22:33
#3
Nice Review Foy,
Do you have
Nice Review Foy,
Do you have any bottom reflector pics?
Thanks.
Sun, 07/01/2012 - 22:34
#4
Nicereviewfoy
Too bad all
Nicereviewfoy 
Too bad all those scratches, mate Ask kreisler to speak with Tmart, I’m sure he will manage a good gift card for you 
A few questions for you tho:
- PWM?
- Current/throw with 18650? (i.e. 18650<26650 or same brightness)
- DD on high? What driver does it use?
- Tint?
Thanks
__________________
Sun, 07/01/2012 - 23:11
#5
Nice review.
I have the
Nice review.
I have the FandyFire version.
Mine too came with a off centered emitter.
Perhaps what I did can help you out.
When I took off the bezel I noticed the reflector had some side to side play.
I put it back together and tightened it loosely.
Turned the light to it’s side and tapped it from the top which made the reflector slowly vibrate down until it was centered.
Then I fully tightened the bezel and it’s been good ever since.
Hope this helps
Sun, 07/01/2012 - 23:12
#6
Sashi -
I really need to make
Sashi -
I really need to make a list so I don't forget this stuff. I had it all in my notes . . . . will add to review.
Okay, PWM seems nearly non-existent; only on low can I see any interuptions on my camera. To the eye, mine has no PWM.
Current draw with a protected Solarforce 18650/2400 on high was 4.25 to 4.60 amps and there was no discernible difference in output.
I'm almost certain it is direct drive on high, based on how it floats when testing current.
Not sure about the driver but here's a whitewall with the M8 . . . .
HD2010 on the left and M8 on the right.
You can see the effects of the M8's hybrid reflector. Both lights exibit a slightly green corona. Everything about the beam profile on the HD2010 is well defined. It has a center spot with a sharp transition to corona that fades quickly to spill.
Foy
Sun, 07/01/2012 - 23:36
#7
Foy – Thanks for this review.
Foy – Thanks for this review. This one is in my cart and im about to put it on DHL. Wasn’t sure about the numbers and performance has gotta be impressive. With all the multi-emitters o/p ridiculousness lumens this must be a special light
Sun, 07/01/2012 - 23:51
#8
Nice review Foy… Watch out
Nice review Foy… Watch out for further dings and scratches. The anodize finish is fragile on this light and the cast aluminum surfaces are soft and ding/dent easily.
Mine behaved the same way when I tried to measure tailcap currents. It would only cycle back and forth between HI and disco.
Nicest hidden feature about this light is that it comes on HI every time after being left off for 3-4 econds. So you can bypass SOS and disco, go straight from LO to HI with a 3-4 second soft press.
Mon, 07/02/2012 - 04:31
#9
Another top notch review from
Another top notch review from Foy. Thanks. Have I sucked up enough to ask questions now? I have the Tangsfire so am interested in any differences between the two.
The driver possibly for a start. I had the same issue doing tailcap measurements but the non flashy mode that I could measure was 2.7 amps also with a King Kong. I dont know if this is high or medium.
All orings were to small as were yours.
The finish was near perfect on all parts except the thread where the bezel scews on was missing anodising in places.
The tailcap switch on the Tangsfire in my book is horrible. It is very heavy in action and feels like it is very harsh when pushing it in if that makes any sense. It feels like it needs a bit of grease in it but then that would not solve the problem of the heavy spring. How does yours compare to the switch in the JM05?
Mon, 07/02/2012 - 07:00
#10
Nice review and pics, Foy.
Nice review and pics, Foy. Nice to see the comparison to the M8. I have both and agree the HD2010 is the winner by a bit. Have you had any issues with the reflector shorting on the LED wires? Mine also can have the LED off center but as mentioned above, careful placement of the somewhat loose reflector cures that. Bottom line, this light has flaws but it really performs.
Mon, 07/02/2012 - 09:11
#11
Foy Review at BLF
Good way to start your morning. Thank you for the review.
Mon, 07/02/2012 - 09:24
#12
Could you please take a
Could you please take a tailcap reading again after a couple weeks of general use? I am curious if after a while your tailcap reading will inexplicably drop below 4A no matter what you try, like it did to some of us here...
Mon, 07/02/2012 - 11:23
#13
Love this light, does throw
Love this light, does throw really well that got me take 2
Mon, 07/02/2012 - 11:46
#14
taz wrote:Could you please
Could you please take a tailcap reading again after a couple weeks of general use? I am curious if after a while your tailcap reading will inexplicably drop below 4A no matter what you try, like it did to some of us here…
Hey taz… I just thought of it this morning, I wonder if your springs have annealed and softened from the current flow? So perhaps now they have compressed to the 650 battery length and you are loosing contact force between the springs and battery??
I had this happen to my TR-J12 only it was very obvious… the smell and cell rattle gave it away immediately after a ~20 minute (HOT) run.
The TR-J12 draws upwards of 5-7A at its peak, when Vin drops. Thats not too far off from the peak ~5.5A I was getting from my HD2010 when I had the stock driver in there, and the springs were pressed completely flat.
Mon, 07/02/2012 - 12:05
#15
kramer5150 wrote:taz
Could you please take a tailcap reading again after a couple weeks of general use? I am curious if after a while your tailcap reading will inexplicably drop below 4A no matter what you try, like it did to some of us here...
Whereas when I took a reading the first time, I was afraid to press down because reading started at 4,2A and when it went to 5,2A I stopped,thinking I would damage the emitter somehow, now I start at 2,6A and pressing on the battery until it compresses the spring to the max possible, I get about 3,9A... could this be caused by the spring? Can somehow a driver stop performing to the max? If it was a driver that had multi AMCs I would think that maybe one or more are not functioning, but this driver doesn't have many chips on it... and I really wish there was a compatible driver that would give 5A max to swap this one out... it's a really great light, and knowing that normally it easily goes to 5A, doing 3,5A now is a bit annoying... The thing also is that in the other HD2010 related threads, there are other owners I think who cannot do over 3A...
Mon, 07/02/2012 - 13:37
#16
Thx for the awesome view Foy!
Thx for the awesome view Foy!
Mon, 07/02/2012 - 17:33
#17
Nice review foy, I’m thinking
Nice review foy, I’m thinking of getting this light. looks like a good one.
But not from Tmart.
Mon, 07/02/2012 - 19:15
#18
Thanks for the info, Foy.
Thanks for the info, Foy. Much appreciated 
As for tint… cameras can actually adjust some things and tint could look different on pic. Does your pics are close to real life/your eye-meter?
To make a good comparison of hotspots and such, I think a pic with lower exposure shows those differences better
Hm, strange, but looking at those pic you’ve made, HD2010 has brighter spill to me outside, but inside, M8 has better spill 
Good to know that you can run it with 18650 without loosing much current/brightness 
Another top notch review from Foy. Thanks. Have I sucked up enough to ask questions now? I have the Tangsfire so am interested in any differences between the two.
The driver possibly for a start. I had the same issue doing tailcap measurements but the non flashy mode that I could measure was 2.7 amps also with a King Kong. I dont know if this is high or medium.
All orings were to small as were yours.
The finish was near perfect on all parts except the thread where the bezel scews on was missing anodising in places.
The tailcap switch on the Tangsfire in my book is horrible. It is very heavy in action and feels like it is very harsh when pushing it in if that makes any sense. It feels like it needs a bit of grease in it but then that would not solve the problem of the heavy spring. How does yours compare to the switch in the JM05?
Very interesting. Have you bought yours @DD? They sells it for 34 without any coupons
Add a 10%coupon, add some points and you will get best bung for the buck. Or not? Can you see PWM on yours? Thanks in advance __________________
Mon, 07/02/2012 - 22:33
#19
MRsDNF -
I haven't seen the
MRsDNF -
I haven't seen the Tangsfire so, not sure what the differences are but because you had the same thing happen during testing that I did, would seen the driver might be the same. You are right about the switch, although I'm probably less bothered by it than you. I didn't really notice until you asked but the switch on the JM05 is very crisp and feels positive. The HD2010 is mushy by comparison but it might be because the JM05 uses a 14mm boot and the HD2010 is 16mm. Honestly, though, I don't think it's the boot.
BetweenRides -
I see what you're talking about but mine hasn't done it. (yet)
Taz -
I will do that but I must remind that I've had this light since 6-8-12. I hesitate to say this but if anything, my HD2010 actually measures a few points higher now than it did 3 weeks ago. I think it's because I removed the collar that held the spring cap down. The spring now presses slightly harder on the battery.
When I first got the light, my Extech measured a high of 5.0 amps that settled to 4.40-4.50. Today on my new Sinometer with a King Kong fresh off the charger, it begins at 5.40 and settles to 4.80-5.0 amps. I have experienced no current drop at all. If anything, it's higher now.
Foy
Mon, 07/02/2012 - 22:49
#20
Sashi -
I had my camera on
Sashi -
I had my camera on manual but the white balance was on auto. Usually, the best anybody can do is put up something to compare to and not something someone could expect to see themselves.
stilllearningFoy
Mon, 07/02/2012 - 23:09
#22
I wish my HD2010 looked as
I wish my HD2010 looked as good as that DD pic. Also, I paid more . . .
sighFoy
Tue, 07/03/2012 - 10:38
#23
Thanks so much for another
Thanks so much for another great review Foy! Frontpage’d and Sticky’d.
Tue, 07/03/2012 - 10:49
#24
I want one of these but never
I want one of these but never pull the trigger for some reason..
thanks for the review foy..
Tue, 07/03/2012 - 10:53
#25
pounder wrote:I want one of
I want one of these but never pull the trigger for some reason.. thanks for the review foy..
You should! They are excellent value-for-money. I have one, and already considering buying a second! Nevermind that my wife also likes it and wants one for my father-in-law... 
Tue, 07/03/2012 - 10:56
#26
taz wrote:pounder wrote:I
I want one of these but never pull the trigger for some reason.. thanks for the review foy..
You should! They are excellent value-for-money. I have one, and already considering buying a second! Nevermind that my wife also likes it and wants one for my father-in-law…
Tue, 07/03/2012 - 11:12
#27
I got issues with the ano
I got issues with the ano finish and I remember hearing of tailswitch problems awhile back..i’ve kind of lost love for lights with problems from the factory..
Tue, 07/03/2012 - 16:02
#28
I hope
I hope mine is in better shape. I ordered one about a week ago.
Tue, 07/03/2012 - 17:48
#29
I have had a half dozen of
I have had a half dozen of these come in for driver swaps and all of them had marks on the ano and also on the reflector. I finally got a perfect one it’s the first black one I have seen and my first order from Lightmalls for $38.90. I don’t know if the defects are limited to the gray ones or if Lightmalls has a different supplier. I can say I really like this light and finally getting one with no defects is nice.
http://www.lightmalls.com/perfect-ultrafire-hd2010-600lm-cree-xm-l-t6-5-…
Tue, 07/03/2012 - 18:13
#30
The East-92 driver that is
The East-92 driver that is also found in other flashlights, is it available anywhere online to buy???
Tue, 07/03/2012 - 20:38
#31
great review, again,
thanks. unfortunately it seems you got a returned one? i guess if it works well no big deal. it will get scuffed up anyway. mine is a tang’s, it came in new condition. i bought it only for the (childish) purpose of putting out streetlights, which i haven’t been able to do. in the meantime though, i came to love it. it is a little large, but it is very very bright, with very very good throw, and has definitely become a keeper. i haven’t even tried a 26650 yet, don’t own one, but i’m sure it will be even better when i eventually get one.
Tue, 07/03/2012 - 21:17
#32
This seems like a light I
This seems like a light I would like to own. Does anybody know how it compares to the Crelant v9 in throw and general usefulness?
Tue, 07/03/2012 - 21:45
#33
The Crelant V9-T6 is a
The Crelant V9-T6 is a fantastic light but we're talking big block 'Vette and 307/2-barrel Mailbu. Nothing wrong with the V9 (I have one and really like it) but as far as output and throw, it's not even a contest . . . . nor should it be. (except price, now that I think about it) The V9 does feel better in my shorts side pocket. The HD2010's big head makes it somewhat less comfortable to carry.
The HD2010 is not all that less bright than my Crap-Ray 818 triple. You saw what it did to my M8. Wasn't pretty.
Foy
Thu, 07/05/2012 - 15:29
#34
Mine arrived in great shape
Thanks for the great review. It motivated my purchase.
Mine arrived in superb shape from Tmart (FIVE days from ordering to my door!). No nicks or scrapes, but the o-rings were all too small just as the reviewer described. Great light, but my Keygos M12 seems brighter in both flood and spot modes, although I know it’s a little of an apples-and-oranges comparison since the M12 is a zoomer. Will try again when it’s dark to see the real difference.
Thu, 07/05/2012 - 16:44
#35
I agree with this review
I agree with this review except I got much luckier with mine in that it is relatively blemish free. I am going to swap the T6 XM-L out for a U2 bin on a copper board from INTL-Outdoor. I am then going to get the pill adjusted correctly for best throw, like Foy said, if it’s screwed in all the way it doesn’t perform correctly. I will then use some Arctic Alumina thermal epoxy to set the pill in place permanently.
Thu, 07/05/2012 - 19:07
#36
bose301s wrote:I agree with
I agree with this review except I got much luckier with mine in that it is relatively blemish free. I am going to swap the T6 XM-L out for a U2 bin on a copper board from INTL-Outdoor. I am then going to get the pill adjusted correctly for best throw, like Foy said, if it's screwed in all the way it doesn't perform correctly. I will then use some Arctic Alumina thermal epoxy to set the pill in place permanently.
Hi Bose. Any chance of before and after beam shots?
Thu, 07/05/2012 - 19:14
#37
MRsDNF wrote:bose301s wrote:I
I agree with this review except I got much luckier with mine in that it is relatively blemish free. I am going to swap the T6 XM-L out for a U2 bin on a copper board from INTL-Outdoor. I am then going to get the pill adjusted correctly for best throw, like Foy said, if it’s screwed in all the way it doesn’t perform correctly. I will then use some Arctic Alumina thermal epoxy to set the pill in place permanently.
Hi Bose. Any chance of before and after beam shots?
I have no good place to do it and they would be terrible if taken by me.
Thu, 07/05/2012 - 19:24
#38
Thanks Bose. No stress. I
Thanks Bose. No stress. I plan to do a couple tonight if the weather behaves. Its done nothing but rain here for the last 5 days so fingers crossed.
Thu, 07/05/2012 - 20:22
#39
Great Review
Thanks so much for the thorough review, Foy. Lately I’ve been preferring my C8s, but this looks like a nice competitor. Could be my next “most used light.” Great job. Thanks for sharing the info.
Thu, 07/05/2012 - 21:07
#40
The C8 size reflector is hard
The C8 size reflector is hard to beat. Some C8 lights can throw with the big boys yet the light is still small enough for comfortable carry . . . .
Foy
Thu, 07/05/2012 - 21:44
#41
true
and it works very well with smooth or op. it seemed a little on the big side before, but compared to the 2010, not so much.
Fri, 07/06/2012 - 06:45
#42
HD 2010 modified.
For anyone interested here is a link to my slowly evolving HD2010 sponsored by my Visa card mods.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/11255
Fri, 07/06/2012 - 13:01
#43
Hey, DNF, have you seen my
Hey, DNF, have you seen my post here Any help will be appreciated
__________________
Fri, 07/06/2012 - 13:02
#44
HD 2010 battery issues
Maybe not the place for this question, but is anyone else having battery issues with this light? It doesn’t seem to like Trustfire flamers. Runs for 15 seconds and shuts down. I have many different flamer dates and batches from the past year or so. Same thing. The most reliable batteries for me seem to be crappy Ultrafire red 3000 and the equally crappy black ultarfire 3600 batts. These are my last choice for any light. In fact, I had been meaning to toss these because their run time is not very long. And some nonprotected sanyo/pan cells work.
I am afraid to keep trying “iffy” batts in it lest it shutoff forever, which wouldn’t be the end of the world if it was a $12 budget light but it’s $38!
It seems perhaps maybe to be related to initial voltage. If it’s too high (4.06-4.15ish), it seems to trigger some protection in the light and shut down. But I’m not sure because some flamers don’t seem to work no matter what the initial voltage level. Maybe it needs the extra capacity of a 26650? Got me. I have some 26650s on the way. I’ll see what those do. All I know is that it’s a pain to carry a handful of extra batts with me on a walk because I don’t know what will work.
I have 35 other lights. None have any problems with any of these batts.
Fri, 07/06/2012 - 13:13
#45
I have that problem with only
I have that problem with only a few lights, where a UF3000 won't power them on high. Balder BD-2 is very picky, only a good quality cell will work. If I stick a UF in it, it will start flashing immediately and power down to medium or low. I think it has to do with high internal resistance? I haven't had an issue with King Kongs in my Tangsfire HD2010 - getting good output and run time. Tell you what, I'll test a few 18650's in it tonight and let you know.
Fri, 07/06/2012 - 13:20
#46
Ubehebe, I have used TF
Ubehebe, I have used TF flames both 18650 & 26650 (I have the UF HD2010), and I have no problems with the light shutting down...
Fri, 07/06/2012 - 13:20
#47
Perhaps there's a contact
Perhaps there's a contact issue? Maybe the Trustfire's aren't pushing tightly against the driver or tailcap springs? There have been some reports of issues with the springs getting squished shorter.
-Garry
Fri, 07/06/2012 - 13:22
#48
Is it not possible its
Is it not possible its tripping the cell protection circuit?
Fri, 07/06/2012 - 13:37
#49
Ubehebe wrote:Maybe not the
Maybe not the place for this question, but is anyone else having battery issues with this light? It doesn’t seem to like Trustfire flamers. Runs for 15 seconds and shuts down. I have many different flamer dates and batches from the past year or so. Same thing. The most reliable batteries for me seem to be crappy Ultrafire red 3000 and the equally crappy black ultarfire 3600 batts. These are my last choice for any light. In fact, I had been meaning to toss these because their run time is not very long. And some nonprotected sanyo/pan cells work.
I am afraid to keep trying “iffy” batts in it lest it shutoff forever, which wouldn’t be the end of the world if it was a $12 budget light but it’s $38!
It seems perhaps maybe to be related to initial voltage. If it’s too high (4.06-4.15ish), it seems to trigger some protection in the light and shut down. But I’m not sure because some flamers don’t seem to work no matter what the initial voltage level. Maybe it needs the extra capacity of a 26650? Got me. I have some 26650s on the way. I’ll see what those do. All I know is that it’s a pain to carry a handful of extra batts with me on a walk because I don’t know what will work.
I have 35 other lights. None have any problems with any of these batts.
Before I modded mine, I used this light in stock form for about a month. I had no problems with any cells in this light. I am running unprotected 18650 cells from Sanyo, Pansonic, Sony. My 26650 cells are battery space LiNiCoMn, also unprotected.
Make sure the light is assembled correctly, everything from the switch pill to the driver pill is screwed down tight.
Does the problem persist with the reflector removed? If so then we can rule out a reflector short.
Fri, 07/06/2012 - 13:53
#50
Ubehebe wrote:Maybe not the
Maybe not the place for this question, but is anyone else having battery issues with this light? It doesn’t seem to like Trustfire flamers. Runs for 15 seconds and shuts down. I have many different flamer dates and batches from the past year or so. Same thing. The most reliable batteries for me seem to be crappy Ultrafire red 3000 and the equally crappy black ultarfire 3600 batts. These are my last choice for any light. In fact, I had been meaning to toss these because their run time is not very long. And some nonprotected sanyo/pan cells work.
I am afraid to keep trying “iffy” batts in it lest it shutoff forever, which wouldn’t be the end of the world if it was a $12 budget light but it’s $38!
It seems perhaps maybe to be related to initial voltage. If it’s too high (4.06-4.15ish), it seems to trigger some protection in the light and shut down. But I’m not sure because some flamers don’t seem to work no matter what the initial voltage level. Maybe it needs the extra capacity of a 26650? Got me. I have some 26650s on the way. I’ll see what those do. All I know is that it’s a pain to carry a handful of extra batts with me on a walk because I don’t know what will work.
I have 35 other lights. None have any problems with any of these batts.
its tripping the protection.
i prefer panasonic ncr’s or sanyo ur’s in this light.
panasonic cgr or any imr battery pulls too much current and has too little runtime in this light. 4 amps out of a solid unprotected high 2600+mah battery is fine by me. 5+ amps is pointless. at 5amps the hd2010 doesnt even seem to get hot which gets me a little worried that the drop in isnt shedding enough heat to the body.
Glad you like your light . Nice review .
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