Hey guys, I am back!
Looking for a flashlight and mount for my shotgun.
I remember bookmarking a good mount and a good shock resistant light from Deal extreme a while back. But I can’t seem to find much now.
I will have a tri-rail on the fore grip of my shotgun so I am looking for a rail mount and a good light to put in it with a pressure switch.
It could be a CR123 or 18650 or 14500 light. I am not sure what LED these shock proof lights are coming with? XML would be good I suppose!
Ok how about these items:
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/superfire-gun-mount-pressure-pad-1025
Seems like a good combo that would come to less than $30!
Is that the cheapest you can get an XML Ultrafire 501 series lamp now? Needs to be single mode.
I have this mount: Cheap Offset Mount
And I have seen that same piece on a few of the popular Chinese mega sites for much less. It ROCKS.
As of right now, I’m feeling too lazy to create hyperlinks, so I’m just going to paste some URLs in my text. Sorry, but my little glass of bourbon/rocks is effectively calming the end of a rough week. 
Currently, I have a SolarForce L2 (solarforceflashlight-sales.com - Informationen zum Thema solarforceflashlight sales.) with an UltraFire pressure switch installed (http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/ultrafire-pressure-switch-tail-part-replacement-30cm-p-5000) with a single-mode Q5 drop-in (http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/ultrafire-cree-q5-mode-led-dropin-module-36v-84v-p-4053) running on a single SolarForce 18650 (solarforceflashlight-sales.com - Informationen zum Thema solarforceflashlight sales.) installed on my M-4. This configuration also works beautifully on my shorty Remington 870.
Now, that being said, as mentioned before I’ve seen that same mount for maybe $2 on some of the Chinese sites. You can get better pressure switches than what I have, and I’d recommend a much more reliable switch for any defense setup, and also suggest you NEVER twist the cord on any of them in the body of the tailcap. The more you pay for a compatible tail switch and pressure pad, the better. SolarForce makes the best P60 hosts for the money, but SureFire makes a much better pressure switch, and many will be compatible with the SolarForce L2.
As far as the drop-in… I am assuming most folks would want a blinding single-mode torch attached to their weapon, with more throw than flood. My Q5 drop-in is pretty awesome for under $10 shipped, but it doesn’t beat a good XM-L drop-in in terms of pure blinding light, and I will replace it with a single mode XM-L as soon as I can.
Now, the case for battery choice. There seems to be nothing wrong with my SolarForce or TrustFire Flame 18650s. They flat out rock. A decent quality, well-reviewed 18650 li-ion rechargable (4v range) will far out.last and out-perform a pair of CR123a primaries (non-rechargable 3v cells) in a light that can handle a range of voltage choices. For home defense, 18650 cells are perfect, because you can have multiple replacements all charged up and ready to go. If you are worried about maybe NOT being at home all the time, and having a range of battery options, you’d want to have a torch that can handle a wide range of battery voltage, not just sizes. For example, many lights or drop-ins run at a max of 4.7v. Two common CR123a primary cells will equal 6v. That will kill your ultra bright 4.7v drop-in in ten seconds or less.
In other words, many of the currently most popular and best performing lights or drop-ins may not handle over 4.7v. So you’re battery choice is limited to less than 4.7v, even if two CR123a cells will fit in that torch. My UltraFire Q5 single mode runs in a range of 3.6V - 8.4V. Means I can use a single 18650, or two CR123s, or even two 3.7v 16350 li-ions. The li-ions push this drop-in to its limit, and it is indeed VERY bright. So, I look forward to doing the same with the bigger, brighter XM-L drop-in.
As I’ve recently educated myself to understand, for a long time now, the most popular and highest quality (most expensive) tactical torches have run on multiple CR123a cells because they are so readily issued and available, then requiring a light than runs on at a wide range of voltage. Read: well-regulated. An LED can be regulated and driven to produce the highest available lumens on less volts, and run-time will vary.
I am just learning all of this now, and am trying to figure it all out to eventually build the best, highest-quality, most adaptable, and best performing (lumens and run-time), and most reliable and sturdy weapon light I can get for less than $60 or so. At this point, I trust my ability to do some research and build my own more than I accept all the stats in an advertisement telling me how awesome some big brand company’s light is. So… I appreciate your post and relate entirely.
As always, any of you from whom I’ve learned since I’ve been participating at this forum PLEASE correct me as needed. I love this stuff.
By the way, if you don’t end up with a remote pressure switch (don’t always need one), then remember that reverse-clicky switches will require you to fully click a light on to get light. A forward-clicky will let you do momentary on. All of the UltraFire bodies I have came with reverse-clicky switches. All my SolarForces are forward-clicky.
I have am UF WF-501a I intended to use as a weapon light, but don’t like not having the option of momentary on. So I have ordered a SolarForce L2m as a replacement. The 501a is an awesome little pocket rocket and EDC, but not suitable as a weaponlight, IMO.
I'm going to reccommend solarforce too,and discourage a pressure switch.All the chineese ones are finicky and tend to suck unless it's for airsoft or something you wouldn't need to rely on.Recoil is a huge factor on a shotgun mounted light,and as long as the drop-in and tailswitch have good springs,you will be fine.Single mode drop-ins are tough to find,I ended up getting a 1 mode xpg off ebay for like $14 that works just fine.
Have you actually run that Manafont drop-in with each of 2* options you describe and can confirm it run them?
Sorry if this is a threadjack, but looking for XPG or XML versions that have been confirmed with that capability for 6v and 8.4v usage as well.
Actually, I have not. Just going by the rating on the package and webpage. I’ve run it with a single CR123 (dim), a single 16350 (bright), and a 18650 (bright). So… what is that - a range of 3-4+v? Yeah… haven’t tried anything higher with it yet.
Thanks for the comments guys. I am pretty experience with flashlights and batteries, I have been posting here for a while!
Just wasn’t sure what a good weapon mounted setup would be. I now have some additional information to ponder. Although I seem to have the mount choice confirmed.
YOu can find 1-mode XPG R5 Skyray SR5 flashlight for that price at dinodirect, and its infact better quality than most of Ultrafire p60 flashlights
Cheap pressure switches are tough to find, to work properly. But you have ultrafire version, from manafont, it is little to stiff but can be modded, it stands high current.
And if you want them soft, there is one good version, its hard to find, I get them from kaidomain (but they dont have sku with them)…
I would also recommend R5 in p60 reflector rather than XML… (to floody for my taste - R5 seems optimal).
Regarding mount, I did not know that shothguns have these rails.
This gunmount is interesting too http://www.tmart.com/Plastic-Adjustable-Gun-Mount-for-Laser-Pen-Flashlight-Black_p120111.html because it can fit double barrel shutguns I think, but I dont know why it’s so expensive…
I am adding a new fore-grip that has a tri-rail on the front end
+1
Some real JUNK out there. Found one that I liked and ordered some more and received same tailcap with different junk switch. Must have changed vendors? Use them for my hunting setup so a failure is not life or death situation.
You may be interested in…
Versatile : Can use 123/16340 or 18650 batteries and will fit most mounts.
I prefer the 123/ 16340 configuration and a 1 mode drop-in.
I use a R5 drop in…
Not as much throw as a Q5 but has a larger hot spot.
Ah, thanks! That solarforce tailcap switch and pad looks nice!
Now if I just hadn’t sold my XML powered L2P here on the forum!
I know this is the budget light forum, where people love budget lights from China. So I thought you would be interested in knowing that this is going on a budget home defense shotgun from China. The Pardner Pump 12g shotgun with 18.5” barrel for only $179 from Walmart. Yes its made in China, but its an EXCELLENT clone of the Remington 870. Most people that own both the Remington 870 and the Pardner pump say that the Pardner is made better. H&R is actually owned by the same company Remington is, so the quality control is there on this gun.
The best part is, all 870 parts fit perfectly on it (except the barrels)
Really? I’ve used the pressure switch on my EagleTac T20C2 thousands of times on both my .223 and my bow and haven’t had a single instance of it not working. 
I personally wouldn’t think of going with anything else for tactical purposes as with a properly mounted pressure switch I don’t have to sit there and fiddle with a button. With a handgun I could see not using a PS, but with something like a shotgun where the light is going to likely be mounted some distance from the hand, it seems like the logical choice, IMO.
Yeah its difficult to find reliable supplier for some really budgtet pressure switch, because I presume 80% of them are prettyx crappym and some ar ereally unusable, break reallxy quickly.
I had trouble with that but abby from kaidomain sourced me some good switches, very nice press-pad (although Solarforce is surely better, but also more than 2 times higher priced) - although I dont know if it can stand higher currents (2,8A and up).
Those with ultrafire logo are stiff but can stand really hight currents (other switches dim the light)
PS: You can buy solarforce remote switch even if tailcaps doesnt fit. You can use just the remote switch part (without talcap), and install it in the tailcap of your flashlight…
I try to avoid pressure switches on pistols and high recoil weapons like shotguns. I have a modified scope mount and a modded LED Lenser V2 with an XRE R2 upgrade and a TIR lens on my Mossberg. The reason I chose the Lenser with a TIR is the beam is the same size as a 00buck spray at 10 feet which is perfect for home defense.
Might have to order the Solarforce switch. I’ll end up having to FET-CR2016 mod it anyway. Haven’t found a pressure switch that will take 8A+ w/out dimming issues.
I have the mount that Jaffo recommended in his first link. E1320 has it as well and it’s a nice mount. If I was buying another I’d get this one as its only a little more and you can adjust the angle of the light.
I have 6 different picatinny mount weaponlights (not counting the Hellfighters) and every one of them is a Surefire. The problem is that every one of them cost a lot more than your shotgun (in one case-5 times more) so I’m not going to pose as a Surefire fanboy and say “nothing else will work”. Any reasonable person, myself included, will know better. What I WILL tell you is that there are many really good reasons why Surefire has won almost every single Military weaponlight contract in the past two decades. Reliability, design and service/warranty being the primary factors. My obligatory ‘your life is worth more than a $20-$30 light’ speech ends here.
IF I were to do it on a tight budget, I would probably go for a Solarforce L2P or something very similar and pick a fully potted (shock proof) drop=in that would meet the needs of the weapon being used. Tape/pressure switch on a long gun? DAMN RIGHT! And, get a good one. In the heat of the moment you never take your hands away from the controls of the gun. Worst case, without a tape switch you should turn the light on and don’t fool with it after that. Wouldn’t it suck to lose the fight because you were fumbling around with the light switch instead of focusing on the task at hand? For the mount, check out Midway for a variety of picatinny style round flashlight mounts. Most are the 1 inch standard but they also have adjustable ones. I’m sure you could pull the whole thing off with a good rig for under $110.
Yes, you can do it way cheaper than $110 but do you really want to? We are talking about self defense here, not lighting up your driveway looking for a dropped set of keys.