Review: Trustfire XP-E F23

43 posts / 0 new
Last post

Pages

brted
brted's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 2 days ago
Joined: 01/12/2010 - 19:44
Posts: 2371
Location: Atlanta
Review: Trustfire XP-E F23

Trustfire XP-E F23

Reviewer's Overall Rating: ★★★★★

Trustfire XP-E F23

 

Summary:

Battery:AAA or 10440
Switch:reverse clicky
Modes:3 Hi Lo Strobe with memory
LED Type:Cree XP-E R2
Lens:glass
Tailstands:No
Price Payed:$13.89
From:DealExtreme sku.24291

 

Pros:

  • Stainless steel looks great
  • Bright LED, esp. on lithium-ion
  • Simple modes with memory

Cons:

  • Short battery life on li-ion
  • Longer than some AAA lights

 

Build Quality: ★★★★★

I am impressed with this light. It is real stainless steel (not magnetic) and looks great (despite the glow-in-the-dark boot). I carried it in my pocket with keys or change for a day or two and it got some light scratches on it. With such a smooth finish, I guess that's expected.


The build quality is pretty good. My only problem is the o-rings don't seem to engage whatever is being screwed over them, so it probably isn't dunkable. But the joints close up really tight, so who knows? Not me. The threads don't move as smoothly as my other lights, but that seems to be expected for steel.

 

The head has a deep smooth reflector. So the beam shows up more ringy and less floody than the iTP A3, but it throws farther. However the L1D throws even farther than that, but it has a bigger reflector too. The o-ring between the lens and reflector leaves a thin glowing line when you turn the flashlight off that is kind of neat.

 

I like that there aren't very many modes (Low-High-Strobe) but I could do without Strobe. I also like that there is no head twisting. This flashlight can be operated just by your thumb on the reverse clicky. And the memory means it can come on directly in high if that's where you left it, which is what I want most of the time. I'm thinking this will be my primary dog-walking light. Maybe the strobe will come in handy if we come across an aggressive dog.

 

The iTP A3 EOS Upgraded, Trustfire XP-E F23, and Fenix L1:

iTP A3 EOS, Ultrafire XP-E F23, and Fenix L1D Q5

 

Battery Life: ★☆☆

I don't have the equipment to do a good runtime test (see below for Don's excellent measurements and graphs), but on a 800 mAh Duracell precharged cell ("duraloop"), the light stayed on for 38 minutes before getting significantly dimmer. During that time the light got quite warm, but not hot. I did a test with an unprotected blue Trustfire 600mAh 10440 lithium ion cell, stopping every 3 minutes to measure the battery voltage and current at the battery. Within 6 minutes, the head of the light was too hot to keep a finger on it comfortably, but the heat was concentrated at the front of the light. After 15 minutes, the battery was lower than I should have let it get, so that is about all you can get out of it.

 

TimeVoltsAmps
0:004.191.23
0:033.891.11
0:063.771.01
0:093.700.94
0:123.630.84
0:153.330.54

 

Here is a test on a white-topped Duracell 800mAh AAA NiMH cell. By this test you could only count on about 25 minutes of runtime. I'm not sure why I didn't get the 38 minutes of my earlier test, but possibly it was because the battery was fresh off the charger and, since it was hot, provided higher current for a shorter time. I didn't do current measurements the first time, but this test seems to indicate the battery had about 800mAh of capacity. 

TimeVoltsAmps (High)Amps (Low)
0:001.4311.910.21
0:051.2811.720.18
0:101.2741.740.18
0:051.2671.720.19
0:201.2521.730.20
0:251.1961.550.18
0:300.975falling fast0.11

 

Light Output: ★★★★★

DealExtreme says the Low is 80 lumens, but it looks more like 10 to me (I'm guesstimating Fenix lumens), which is a lot better than 80. They also say the maximum brightness is 150 lumens, which is probably reasonable on 10440 lithium ions (might be 180). It isn't that much less on NiMH's, maybe 120 lumens.

Indoor Beam Shots

The Trustfire is always on the left. Most pictures were taken at f2.8 and 1/25 second exposure until the end when the exposure is shortened. The distance to the wall is half a meter.

Trustfire XP-E F23 vs. iTP A3 EOS on high with NiMH eneloops. The Trustfire is a little brighter, but the A3 puts off a lot of spill that you can't really see here and that makes it seem like there is more light overall with the A3. The F23 tint is pretty white but cool, but not as cool as the A3. Definitely not blue. I'm impressed with the tint. They're not as neutral as they look here:

F23 vs. A3 on low with NiMH eneloops. The A3 has a very low low (1.5 lumens) while the F23 seems to be more like 10-15 lumens:

F23 vs. Fenix LD1 Q5 on High with NiMH Eneloops. The F23 seems brighter. The L1D has a warmer tint though:

F23 vs. L1D on low with NiMH Eneloops. Fenix claims 12 lumens on low, so the Trustfire is maybe just a hair under that at 10 lumens:

Fade series F23 vs. A3 on high with fresh lithium ion batteries:

1/25 second:

1/250th second:

1/1000th second:

Now a fade series against the L1D with lithium ion batteries.

1/25th second:

1/250th second:

1/1000th second:

 

Outdoor shots

The forked stick in the ground is 25 feet away. The light is aimed at the fencepost to the left of the stick which is about 120 feet away. All exposures are for 4 seconds.

Control shot:

 

On High with 800mAh Eneloop AAA NiMH:

 

On High with 600mAh Ultrafire 10440 lithium-ion battery. I didn't realize there was such a difference. This light also throws pretty well:

 

For comparison, here is the iTP A3 EOS on 10440 li-ion:

 

The F23 on Low with 800mAh Eneloop AAA NiMH:

 

The F23 on Low with 600mAh Ultrafire 10440 li-ion:

 

Summary: ★★★★★

This is a good light. Because it isn't as small as the iTP A3 EOS, that light will remain in my pocket as my EDC. And the Fenix is still a better general use light with a nicer tint and better throw. But I'll definitely use the F23 walking the dogs because it can be used with one hand, has mode memory, a good low, and is plenty bright on high.

 


Edited by: sb56637 on 08/26/2014 - 17:13
sb56637
sb56637's picture
Online
Last seen: 1 min 22 sec ago
Joined: 01/08/2010 - 09:29
Posts: 6122
Location: The Light

Really really well done review brted!  Thanks for your hard work.  Frontpaged.

 

Looks like a winner light there.  So the O-ring is what makes it glow after shut-off?  Interesting!  I have an AA-S1 that does that too, I couldn't figure out where that was coming from.  Never occurred to me they would put an O-ring there.  Well made light if it has that.

Budget Light Forum ...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

alfreddajero
alfreddajero's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 1 week ago
Joined: 01/14/2010 - 00:28
Posts: 1795
Location: Virginia Beach VA

Well done indeed.  You will be amazed how much more lumens the light gets when one uses lithiums.

With Darkness, there will always be Light.

 

 

Don
Don's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 1 month ago
Joined: 01/12/2010 - 16:32
Posts: 6617
Location: Scotland

Jay got 23 mins on a cheap alkaline and about 35 on an NiMH. Will stick a 10440 into it and do a runtime tonight. If the snow holds off I'll try for a bunch of beamshots on bigger lights. These will not be comparable to the usual ones because the test range has a much greater reflectivity than usual.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

alfreddajero
alfreddajero's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 1 week ago
Joined: 01/14/2010 - 00:28
Posts: 1795
Location: Virginia Beach VA

Yes i know what you mean......hard to do beamshots with white on the ground.  Right now were getting 12in. of snow......dont know if im going to work on monday....lol.

With Darkness, there will always be Light.

 

 

Don
Don's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 1 month ago
Joined: 01/12/2010 - 16:32
Posts: 6617
Location: Scotland

:Sp Not going really isn't an option for me. Sadly.

It is probably safer to walk to work anyway when it's snowy as my car really, really hates snow.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

alfreddajero
alfreddajero's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 1 week ago
Joined: 01/14/2010 - 00:28
Posts: 1795
Location: Virginia Beach VA

Well you would change your mind when you see the idiots that are over here.......

With Darkness, there will always be Light.

 

 

Don
Don's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 1 month ago
Joined: 01/12/2010 - 16:32
Posts: 6617
Location: Scotland

alfreddajero wrote:

Well you would change your mind when you see the idiots that are over here.......

 

We have them too - but i don't need to spend much of the time on the way to work on what we call the pavement and you call the sidewalk. I can walk on (frozen) grass for most of the way.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

Don
Don's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 1 month ago
Joined: 01/12/2010 - 16:32
Posts: 6617
Location: Scotland

Charged up a 10440 - the Ultrafire protected ones. http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.30788. Claimed capacity 600mAh. That will be right! DX say 350mAh and that is quite possibly optimistic too.

 

Bunged it in the light and set it on high to discharge. Since stainless steel lights tend to get rather hot, pointed a fan at the light to help cool it a bit. 50% output is the convention for measuring runtimes. By that point, output is dropping like a stone anyway - you are at 90% or more of the time till the cell protection kicks in. Even with the fan, the light is getting pretty hot after 12 minutes. Not painful, but hot.

 

Got 54.6 microamps off the lightbox at start - dropped to 27.3 microamps (50%) after 14 minutes and 15 seconds. Cell protection kicked in at 18 minutes 5 seconds.

 

On low (22:32:28) it generated 5.4 microamps so 50% will be at 2.7 microamps. This will take a while. Will edit in the morning with graphs and runtime on lithium cells.

 

From the log, there is no real regulation at first - it is running in direct drive on a lithium cell I'd reckon. Generating the graphs takes time, it will be added later.

 

Runtime on high with a 10440

 

Runtime on Low with 10440

 

The runtime on low with a 10440 was unexpectedly good. Can repeat for NiMH if anyone wants.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

alfreddajero
alfreddajero's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 1 week ago
Joined: 01/14/2010 - 00:28
Posts: 1795
Location: Virginia Beach VA

On nimh the light output should be longer then on 10440.

With Darkness, there will always be Light.

 

 

Don
Don's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 1 month ago
Joined: 01/12/2010 - 16:32
Posts: 6617
Location: Scotland

It'll run cooler on NiMH too. Once the lightbox is vacated I'll do NiMH runtimes though Jay has them here

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

sb56637
sb56637's picture
Online
Last seen: 1 min 22 sec ago
Joined: 01/08/2010 - 09:29
Posts: 6122
Location: The Light

Nice graphs!  What software do you use for data collection and plotting?

Budget Light Forum ...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

Don
Don's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 1 month ago
Joined: 01/12/2010 - 16:32
Posts: 6617
Location: Scotland

Nothing fancy. I've not looked at the raw output from the cheap meter - it came with some adequate software that timestamps each reading so I get an output of time and value. Needless to say, the software is Windows only and it's USB interfaced which tends to be a pain for finding drivers for other systems. Howeer, the maker of the USB chip has Linux drivers available. Graphing can be done with qtDMM on Linux. On Windows I just feed it into a spreadsheet and chart it from there. Then copy & paste the chart from the spreadsheet into a graphics app so I can save it as a .jpg and put it up on Photobucket.  

 

It can be interesting trying to find out who actually made a given meter - mine appears to be identical to the PeakTech 4390 which is a German model, doubtless rebranded from the same Taiwanese/Chinese factory as all the others. It took quite a bit of looking at pictures and spec sheets to figure that out. Mine is supported by qtDMM.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

fran82
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 47 min ago
Joined: 07/31/2010 - 10:15
Posts: 2463

Hi, first of all, this is my first post.

I am member of  "forolinternas.com" and I have been following this site from some months. Very good site. Very Interesting and quality reviews and interesting help.

I have the XPE-F23 and I use protected 10440 on it, but want to buy the itp A3 as EDC, because has less weight and is smaller than the F23.

I have a question to brted about the itp A3 eos upgraded. Want to know if protected 10440 fits in the A3, like the TrustFire gray ones (DX sku.30788).... or there is any problem about inserting 10440 in the A3 (problems with lenght)

Also want to know if there is any problem in using the A3 with 10440 in HIGH mode more than 2 minutes (heat generated).

I have read but dont know if it is true: the A3 with 10440, in MED mode produces more light than the same flashlight with Ni-Mh on HIGH mode.

 

Thanks

This post/thread "may" contain referrals, a little contribution I "earn" in form of points ONLY if you buy the item. The purpose is to redeem items using the points and then making reviews of them in the forums to shar

Don
Don's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 1 month ago
Joined: 01/12/2010 - 16:32
Posts: 6617
Location: Scotland

Sorry, I can't answer but welcome to BLF -it is good to have you here

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

juhha
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 28 min ago
Joined: 05/19/2010 - 09:51
Posts: 255
Location: Portugal

Hi fran82, welcome to BLF!

 

I know the question was to brted, but i can reply for him. My ITP does not work with protected 10440, as they are too long. 2mm long. When closing the cap on the ITP, it won't turn all the way it should and the light won't turn on. I use mine with these: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.974

Just regularly check them with a multimeter.

 

Depending on the weather I can run the ITP for 1-1,5 minutes on high. Dindn't experiment using it for more time, so can't say what would happen. Regularly use it on high, and when it becomes unconfortable, just turn to Low. Even on medium, after 5 minutes it starts to become hot. Not blinding hot, mas you certainly can feel it on the fingers.

 

About the output. Yes. Not by much, but judging by my eyes, the high with NIMH is not as bright as medium with 10440. But the high with 10440, is what shocked me the first time. Freaking wall of light!

fran82
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 47 min ago
Joined: 07/31/2010 - 10:15
Posts: 2463

So if I understood well, protected batteries will not work because of the lenght. When screwing the head, can not make contact between the battery tube and the "negative" pole of the driver. OK. Unprotected batteries fit with no problems.

 

About time using 10440. I have the F23, with no problems I use it for about 10 minutes on HIGH (cooled by my hands).

 

So using the itp in HIGH with 10440 and becoming very hot or dangerously hot for the LED and driver in less than 5 minutes looks very dissapointing to me. However I imagine that the A3 will be brighter on HIGH with 10440 than the F23 with same battery and same mode (Direct Drive). Remember that the A3 uses a Q5 and the F23 uses a Q3. So is easy to understand why the A3 is brighter than the F23 on DD.

 

However using the A3 with 10440 in MED, will be something good to consider. Probably will have about 90 lumens¿?

 

So, I continue asking me if to buy or not to buy........

This post/thread "may" contain referrals, a little contribution I "earn" in form of points ONLY if you buy the item. The purpose is to redeem items using the points and then making reviews of them in the forums to shar

juhha
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 28 min ago
Joined: 05/19/2010 - 09:51
Posts: 255
Location: Portugal

Yup. Something like that.

 

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showpost.php?p=3393355&postcount=57

 

About buying it. Go for it. It's an awesome light.

fishinfool
fishinfool's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 11 months ago
Joined: 03/09/2010 - 00:30
Posts: 4342
Location: Hilo, Hawaii

Aloha and welcome to BLF fran82 !  Smile

Don wrote:

"But as I said long ago, you are more likely to be killed by a dead fish dropped by a seagull in the Sahara Desert than by a lithium ion

brted
brted's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 2 days ago
Joined: 01/12/2010 - 19:44
Posts: 2371
Location: Atlanta

Sorry, I was out all day. I haven't tried protected 10440's, but I have used the blue ones that Juhha linked to. The A3 is definitely brighter, and I think that's about right that Medium with li-ions is about as bright as High on NiMH's. I thought there were measurements for the A3 on NiMH and li-ion at CPF, but they've got a new format for the sphere of truth and I can't find it.

fran82
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 47 min ago
Joined: 07/31/2010 - 10:15
Posts: 2463

OK, thanks to all for the welcome. And thanks to all for the help.

 

I will ask to my pillow, and if I have more dudes, I will post here.

 

Thanks a lot!

This post/thread "may" contain referrals, a little contribution I "earn" in form of points ONLY if you buy the item. The purpose is to redeem items using the points and then making reviews of them in the forums to shar

fran82
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 47 min ago
Joined: 07/31/2010 - 10:15
Posts: 2463

I, excuse me again.

 

I have been reading and I have seen videos explaining that the A3 eos is too weak in the zone of the threads and it can broke in that zone.

 

It is true? Are all the A3, or only a bad batch?

 

Thanks

This post/thread "may" contain referrals, a little contribution I "earn" in form of points ONLY if you buy the item. The purpose is to redeem items using the points and then making reviews of them in the forums to shar

fishinfool
fishinfool's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 11 months ago
Joined: 03/09/2010 - 00:30
Posts: 4342
Location: Hilo, Hawaii

I've had an iTP A3 EOS on one of my chains since March of this year and haven't had any problems with the threads whatsoever.  Do you have any links to those bad reviews?

Don wrote:

"But as I said long ago, you are more likely to be killed by a dead fish dropped by a seagull in the Sahara Desert than by a lithium ion

fran82
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 47 min ago
Joined: 07/31/2010 - 10:15
Posts: 2463

Yes, I have many, but a image is more than 1000 words:

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HqjNuwjQS3s

 

Also you can read the comments in the video, it had happened to more persons. Not only the clip broke, but the flashlight body broken in 2 parts!!!!!!!

 

Even in CPF there are some guys with same problem.

 

I am searching the link

This post/thread "may" contain referrals, a little contribution I "earn" in form of points ONLY if you buy the item. The purpose is to redeem items using the points and then making reviews of them in the forums to shar

fishinfool
fishinfool's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 11 months ago
Joined: 03/09/2010 - 00:30
Posts: 4342
Location: Hilo, Hawaii

Ok, that's a Maratac AAA which I don't have any experience with.  I have the iTP A3 EOS which looks similar but are from different manufacturers.  When you mentioned A3 I just assumed you were talking about the iTP.  I'm pretty sure someone here has a Maratac AAA and will be able to help you.

Don wrote:

"But as I said long ago, you are more likely to be killed by a dead fish dropped by a seagull in the Sahara Desert than by a lithium ion

fran82
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 47 min ago
Joined: 07/31/2010 - 10:15
Posts: 2463

On other sites, they say that Maratac as better quality than itp.

 

Also I tought that the maratac AAA and the itp A3 eos is manufactured by the same manufacturer...

 

However I imagine that if this happens to the maratac, It will hapen too to the itp A3 or.................who knows?

 

In CPF people who have done comparisons between them, have noted that even the circuitry is exactly the same

This post/thread "may" contain referrals, a little contribution I "earn" in form of points ONLY if you buy the item. The purpose is to redeem items using the points and then making reviews of them in the forums to shar

fishinfool
fishinfool's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 11 months ago
Joined: 03/09/2010 - 00:30
Posts: 4342
Location: Hilo, Hawaii

I have my iTP A3 EOS on my 2nd set of keys so they are in and out of my pocket, in and out of my trucks ignition, dropped many times and it just keeps on working.  I use aaa eneloops in it and it seems to last forever on low but you always have medium and high if you need it.  I think that video was of a bad Maratec or maybe part of a bad batch but both are very good aaa lights and you can't go wrong with either one IMO.  Smile

Don wrote:

"But as I said long ago, you are more likely to be killed by a dead fish dropped by a seagull in the Sahara Desert than by a lithium ion

fishinfool
fishinfool's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 11 months ago
Joined: 03/09/2010 - 00:30
Posts: 4342
Location: Hilo, Hawaii

You've probably already seen this but here it is just in caes you missed it.

 http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=240639

 

Don wrote:

"But as I said long ago, you are more likely to be killed by a dead fish dropped by a seagull in the Sahara Desert than by a lithium ion

fran82
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 47 min ago
Joined: 07/31/2010 - 10:15
Posts: 2463

Anybody knows if there are "falsifications" or "non-original" A3`s or maratac`s???

 

Because they are the cheapest itp flashlights, and I imagine, manufactured in China, so is possible that can exist non-original ones

This post/thread "may" contain referrals, a little contribution I "earn" in form of points ONLY if you buy the item. The purpose is to redeem items using the points and then making reviews of them in the forums to shar

fishinfool
fishinfool's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 11 months ago
Joined: 03/09/2010 - 00:30
Posts: 4342
Location: Hilo, Hawaii

Any popular flashlight is probably going to have fake ones out there but it all depends on where you buy it.  I bought mine from GoingGear.com and I'm pretty sure mine is the real thing but then again everything is made in China nowadays so you just never know.

Don wrote:

"But as I said long ago, you are more likely to be killed by a dead fish dropped by a seagull in the Sahara Desert than by a lithium ion

fran82
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 47 min ago
Joined: 07/31/2010 - 10:15
Posts: 2463

nono, the one you bought from goinggear was manufactured in China (i think)

 

I dont know if the ones sold in china web sites are original or fakes.......... specially the cheapo A3 ones

This post/thread "may" contain referrals, a little contribution I "earn" in form of points ONLY if you buy the item. The purpose is to redeem items using the points and then making reviews of them in the forums to shar

Pages