Ultrafire XM-L T6 3 mode = Playing with the thermal properties

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old4570
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Ultrafire XM-L T6 3 mode = Playing with the thermal properties

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/1193  Original review ... 

Heat sag from review :

 

Start = 1100+ sags to 900+ within 2 seconds 

15 seconds = 915L

30 seconds = 860L

60 seconds = 845L

2 minutes = 815L 

 

 

Ok . looking to try and stabilize the output a little higher , I used Arctic  Alumina to surround the emitter , hoping to create another thermal path , possibly to the reflector ..

Anyhow , early days yet ...  

Start = 1050L     [ 1100 ] 

15 seconds = 943   [ 915 ] 

30 seconds = 898  [ 860 ] 

60 seconds = 881  [ 845 ] 

2 minutes = 860  [ 815 ] 

 

What I did = 

I surrounded the emitter with arctic alumina , the screwed down the " reflector " all the way , tested for a short [ yes there was a short ] , then unscrewed the reflector a little , and the short went away .. Now the reflector is permanently glued down , but looks like I have created some improved heatsinking . Will test again after  

 Always remember , the easiest thing in the world to do , is to expel hot air from your lungs and through some vocal chords ..
The resulting sound may , or may not be worth listening too ….

 

Edited by: sb56637 on 02/14/2012 - 08:19 Reason: sb56637 replaced budgetlightforum.cz.cc with budgetlightforum.com via Scanner Search and Replace module.
old4570
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Epoxy has cured some ...

Start = 1050L  [ 1050 ]   and before  [ 1100 ] 

15sec = 954L  [ 943 ]                     [ 915 ] 

30sec = 933L  [ 898 ]                     [ 860 ] 

60sec = 905L  [ 881 ]                     [ 845 ] 

2Min = 878L   [ 860 ]                      [ 815 ] 

 Always remember , the easiest thing in the world to do , is to expel hot air from your lungs and through some vocal chords ..
The resulting sound may , or may not be worth listening too ….

 

pipopopo
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Intersting! never thought it would make such a difference (reversed to incandisit lights were hotter is more output)

Budgeteer
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At this point it seems adequate to remove the star, grind it to flat and the pill where it sits. Then glue the two using just a little thermal epoxy and press the two together until cured properly. Afterwards securing the emitter and filling the pill cup and star with the thermal epoxy to make the star and pill one entity.

That would certainly do the trick but it would also be permanent and there is no room for error.

Anyone ever tried that fujik thermal glue DX sells? I have it but never tried to use it. It seems the emitters are stock glued with the same goop but the job is half assed.

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

brted
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I use Fujik. I don't really have any way of measuring its effectiveness, but it seems to work and I like that it is reversible if the emitter ends up off-center or I want to do further mods. With the last drop-in I made it seems like it took a while to set up. Even after an hour when I took the reflector off, the star popped up. After a day it stayed stuck though. It could be it is settling in the tube some since I've had the tube for six months or more.