Maybe I'm a tech nut, but should we be recommending/buying only U2's? I'm surprised there are still so many XML T6's out there getting the top ratings/reviews. The SkyRay King and SkyRay STL-V2 are great lights, but they are using what I see as outdated emitters. From the specs, it appears the U2 is superior in every way. Of course the quality of the light is more than the emitter, and maybe some of the better designed lights haven't caught up to the technology. From the manufacturers point of view, I'm not sure about the cost differential but it's more complicated for design changes - engineering costs (NRE), using up existing inventory, etc.
I'm looking for a great 18650 based thrower (stock), but I can't see buying a SR STL-V2 that's using a T6 because it's days must be numbered. The U2 is getting there, but it seems very slowly. DX and Manafont seem to be lacking U2's, while LightMalls and Intl Outdoor seems to be catching up.
From now on, I'm not buying or recommending any T6 based lights.
Sorry bout that. I was posting to the 18650 forum, so I was referring to only 18650 lights with comparison to the T6. I researched the tint issue (warm/neutral/cool), and yes, it's an issue for those wanting a specific tint, but the U2 still has brighter specs apparently.
I wasn't aware an XR-E R2 was still in the game compared to a T6 or U2 in throw. Interesting... Is this emitter dtill practical for an 18650 light? I'm still researching all of this (newbie comparatively speaking...).
Yup, XRE is still practical. Best light-saber emitter and used in most cheap lights.
Btw. could you replace your signature either with a picture (.png) of your collection and/or a link to your collection in this thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/9150 ?
* Features a premium cool white Cree XM-L U2 emitter, 1A bin
So, they seem to call the emitter an "XM-L U2" and the bin "1A", but they could be wrong as well. Looks like here on BLF they frequently call the emitter XML/U2 or XML/T6, but I guess they mean the name following the slash is the bin, and maybe the "1A" is a bin rev?
This is all relatively new to me - think somewhere here on BLF they define the flashlight parts - dont' know the link, couldn't find it. Still unsure of exactly what the "pill" is and what the proper name of the housing/shell/casing is.
Color bins: http://flashlightwiki.com/images/f/f6/Ansiwhite.jpg
For example, 1A is a pretty neutral cool white while 3C is a neutral white, somewhat close to daylight. 5 and above tints are warm white, so more like incans.
/edit: You can see some parts of the internals here: http://flashlightwiki.com/DIY_P60
Pill is the part that containts driver and led, reflector should be self-explanatory.
I really want a ThruNite TN31, but don't want to spend $220 - the quality and specs look outstanding though. Seriously looking at the Romisen RC-T601 II from ShiningBeam - I seen it referred to as a very good thrower and the overall size is not so big.
Don't know, but maybe there is a budget light out there that can match the throw (over 700 meters?) of the TN31 for $50-$60, or even $100 - not sure. Also not sure how the SR STL-V2 matches up, but still, I would think a U2 version of the STL-V2 would have to be better in throw. It's current single T6 seems to be out-throwing the multi T6's in one review.
Exactly, if you use the Hd2010 as an example, the single emitter version which is "only 600" lumens is going to throw further than the triple xml version which is "1800 lumens". This is because the host only has so much room so when there are more emitters the reflectors must be smaller.
What matters for throw is lux not lumens. Lux is the amount of light in one area. This is generally measured at 1 meter. The hd2010 is around 40k lux.
Lumens is the total amount of light. This is the equivalent of lux per meter if the light was perfectly defused. This is measured by placing the light in an integrating sphere and using a light meter to measure the light level in the sphere. Then you have to calculate the size of the sphere and do the math and with that you can calculate the lumens.
Ok - understand about the lux. I dont see any recent postings on the new model of the RC-T601 II from ShiningBeam, so can't compare it to the Hd2010 or the STL-V2. Only info I saw is that it was released. On TMart it does say a distance of 450 meters, which sounds real good. I'll have to try to find out more.
TangsFire single (1200 lm, 6W, Lighting Distance = 450m)
UltraFire single (1300 lm, 8W, Lighting Distance = 300m)
For this light, my 1st choice is throw, so the TangsFire single is the best choice, though there is nothing in the specs to support why this light throws better than the UltraFire. The host seems to be in common between these 3, probably same manufacturer, but the TangsFire seems better in throw? Hhhmm... It sounds like TangsFire is TMart's own brand, maybe. It could be they are mod'ing or building up there own lights with off-the-shelf parts, dunno.
Though the 2 singles share the same host, the weight differs, indicating there is some internal differences.
Hhhhmmmm. Dunno if I could believe the "Lighting Distance" specs from TMart. Could be a different reflector, different bin T6, more amps, etc. Wonder what the truth is...
Pretty wierd then. seems like they went out of their way to spec these out differently then, and not favorably to one or the other (one is higher lumens, the other further throw).
And the DIY ref adds the pictures!