Hey guys I never modded a mini AA mag so I’m looking for some input
First I need to know what is the best driver to get and drill bits
Im looking to start with a AA mini mag CUT DOWN for one battery
I’ll Probley be using a XML-U2 led Any info on a mini build just post
I recently did a 14500 mule. I started out with a normal black 2aa mini mag. I then took a hacksaw and chopped off the top half of it. (I had an old alkaline stuck in there) Then I took the end of the tub and glued it into the head. Naturally, this means that it no longer works as a twisty. This means you have to use one of the tailcap clickies. Then I used my dremel to bore out the inside and I put in a XM-L p60 module without a reflector or anything.
I would like to use a drill bit bc I’m going to be making few of these, as for I driver I have no idea what can work with a single 14500 battery
Match, LOL 
Me too, just click on my username and look at the maglite builds. I believe I have done AA and AAA, more than once.
The search box is your friend. 
I haven’t found much in the way of a good high powered driver (that is in stock). A 14500 and a dummy AA cell would do good direct. Match has probably got the system down pat and so does JohnnyMac.
Thanks i was going to say the most help I needed help with would be a driver dice im cutting the body down to a one 14500 body I’ll do some more reading and post my results 
I use a 25/32” drill bit and you could JB Weld the end on after you cut it down since you can change the batteries from the drilled out end now.
I haven't used it yet on a mini-mag, but I bought a 3/4" Dewalt drill bit (3/8" shank) from Lowes - somewhere between $15 to $20. Use it and then grind/dremel the remaining width you need.
-Garry
Just bought a 25/32” drill bit know I think is the hard part finding a driver
Any 16-17mm driver that works in a p60 drop-in and is designed for 2.8-4.2v will work just dandy. The world is your oyster.
Actually, I spoke too soon without fully thinking. Only drivers with the above specs AND a flat bottom free of components will work for this. This means that Nanjg AMC7135 drivers are out as well as any others that do not have a smooth base on the battery side. The reason is the battery tube has to contact the base of the driver to complete the circuit.
Edit: A spring for the “+” connection is ok to have.
I used a normal solarforce p60 drop in and it works fine even though there are components on the bottom.
What kind of components, other than the “+” spring, are on it? Can you post a pic of it?
I just looked at it and realized I was mistaken about there being components on the bottom. However I did just test it with my E1320 drop in and it works fine.
And here it is on.
I ran into this myself…I started one of these projects a few months back, dremeled like mad and got it all to fit. Sanded down a P60 pill to make a snug fit and soldered in our beloved NANJG 2.8a driver…guess what? It didn’t work. Knucklehead! I haven’t done a thing with it yet, as I also need a decent flat bottomed driver with good output.
As long as there is a spring on the bottom of it it should work fine. Atleast mine does.
Very interesting. All I can think of is that your solder joints on the edge of the driver stick up farther than the chips so that the battery tube touches them before it hits the chips.
As I understand it, negative is going through the body of the flashlight and into the side of the p60 drop in. Maybe, I just don't understand it. :(
If the anodizing has not been removed from either the battery tube threads or the threads in the head, then the only place for the circuit to close is when the exposed edge of the battery tube contacts the driver base.
If the ano is removed then the circuit can pass through the threading and do what you said. If it was the case then twisting the light would not turn it on or off and only a tail switch installed would be able to control power to the light.
That is what it is. The way I made this was literally to chop off the top half and then glue it into the head. I now control it with a clicky in the tailcap. Thanks for explaining it to me.
Well, that solves that mystery. LOL!