Review: UniqueFire F12-A

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JohnnyMac
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NightCrawl wrote:

Great review!

Btw. I cant find 14x6mm boots on CNQG..

 

Oh, and if anyone is interested, the switch kinda handles 3A. I put a 2.8A driver in my Z8 (which is using the same switch) and the switch limits the current to about 2.6A. I think thats fine.

Here are the boots I got from Ric. He has more at fancyflashlights.com.

http://fancyflashlights.com/goods.php?id=134

The blue caps look great with the black & stainless. Wink

old4570
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Nice review !

Well done ….

 Always remember , the easiest thing in the world to do , is to expel hot air from your lungs and through some vocal chords ..
The resulting sound may , or may not be worth listening too ….

 

NightCrawl
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JohnnyMac wrote:

NightCrawl wrote:

Great review!

Btw. I cant find 14x6mm boots on CNQG..

 

Oh, and if anyone is interested, the switch kinda handles 3A. I put a 2.8A driver in my Z8 (which is using the same switch) and the switch limits the current to about 2.6A. I think thats fine.

Here are the boots I got from Ric. He has more at fancyflashlights.com.

http://fancyflashlights.com/goods.php?id=134

The blue caps look great with the black & stainless. Wink

Those look sweet! Is the nipple on the inside high or low? I need some with high nipple for my UF 50x..

Tom E
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They are showing out-of-stock now Cry. I ordered this for the driver:

http://www.intl-outdoor.com/amc71358-5mode-circuit-board-nanjg-105c-p-216.html

 A 2.8 amp 105c - looks good - hope to figure out how to fit it... Never swapped a driver before

 

scaru
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Tom, that driver is going to require minor modification to make it work because this light uses a 16mm driver and that ones is 17mm. Dremel bit 115 should work well for widening the hole. 

Tom E
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 Ohhh, thanks scaru! So you take down the pill and not the edge of the board - guess trimming the board would be risky. Don't have a Dremel now, but it will soon be ordered (ka-ching). I am planning on doing more and probably need a better soldering iron as well.

scaru
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Well, either work but I find it easier to just widen it slightly. However you can just use a file to file down the edges if you don't have a dremel yet. Just be careful and don't take off to much. 

NightCrawl
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On some lights, you have to grind down driver and pill. Usually you can take about 1mm off the driver without a problem.

edc
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That boot looks worse than my cats a-hole.

 

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums

Tom E
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Booty with the 6mm GITD (much improved!):

Booty

 

Compared to other common small tail-standers:

Sipik SK68 - Romisen RC-29 - New 898 - F12-A - Sipik SK73 (18650)

 

With the Sipiks only:

sipik

 

Tom E
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 Did the mod today of swapping out the driver on the F12-A to a Nanji 105C AMC7135*8. Since this was my most complicated mod, took a little time (actually it's my 2nd mod, 1st mod was yesterday!). As scaru said, the driver was a little too big so I decided to trim the board with a dremel (actually a Harbor freight - their best). I realized the stock spring on the 105C would not due, so detached the original spring, mounted it upside down, and also, soldered in the smaller 105C spring inside the big original, keeping it flush to the battery contact - I was concerned the wide end of the big spring would not make good contact with the + terminal on the 14500 battery.

 Also, it looked like the brass retaining ring that held down the original driver would not do because it would make contact with the 7135's. So, I soldered down the driver board at 3 points. I kept in the original wires - they seemed fine and I couldn't see any difference in the new replacement ones.

 Fortunately the initial power test worked fine! I made the driver lo/med/hi, though I didn't see any #'s for the stars, browsing BLF and CPF, found someone noting they are numbered right to left, but it turns out they must be left to right numbered, or the doc was wrong, dunno. Anyway, had to break one star ground, and soldered the next, then the modes worked the way I wanted!!

 Very happy with this new light - the tail-standing GITD button, nicely spaced modes, no flashies, plus 2.8A measured amps on a fresh charged TF flame w/a U2 in a very small and great looking package!! I now have better batteries on order (Sanyo 840 mAh from Intl-Outdoor). This thing is now as bright as my Sipik SK73 zoomy, but much better looking, higher quality, and smaller, better heat mgt. I think it's flood beam is very good - very even light distribution, but the square throw is horrible but all the zoomy's I saw and have are like that.

 Sure it heats up, but I got stock lights that heat quicker. The clip is annoying as JohnnyMac, pointed out, but I'll see if I can bend the end up - should do the trick, then it will be near perfect.

 

Tom E
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 Will be adding a 7135 to the F12-A, bringing it up to 3.18A (380ma chip). It handles the heat very well - great brass pill. Maybe a U3 1C?

Update: Updated to 3.14A (350 ma), looks nice, not getting too hot. Lot of pocket power for an FTT.

how2
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JohnnyMac this may be for you.Laughing

Uniquefire F16-B  takes 18650

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how2 wrote:

JohnnyMac this may be for you.Laughing

Uniquefire F16-B  takes 18650

Whoa! I like it!
scaru
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JohnnyMac wrote:

how2 wrote:

JohnnyMac this may be for you.Laughing

Uniquefire F16-B  takes 18650

Whoa! I like it!

Brand:UniqueFire
Model:F16-B
LED Emitter Type:12xCREE XM-L T6
Luminous Flux:1300-Lumen

Wait, what?

JohnnyMac
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scaru wrote:

JohnnyMac wrote:

how2 wrote:

JohnnyMac this may be for you.Laughing

Uniquefire F16-B  takes 18650

Whoa! I like it!

Brand:UniqueFire
Model:F16-B
LED Emitter Type:12xCREE XM-L T6
Luminous Flux:1300-Lumen

Wait, what?

And you thought you were tricky squeezing just 6 on a p60 MCPCB!

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