\Skyray king mod idea.

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Serifus
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\Skyray king mod idea.

I picked up an NW SRK a couple months ago, and that little bit of space under the tail cap as me curious. I did some poking around with a multimeter and discovered that the center pad on the back of the head is directly connected to the positive pad ring, and it got me thinking, that mayhapse there could be a drop in circuit board that could add some extra features, like maybe some sort of usb charging port. Ive never really done any circuit design before, but it couldn’t be too hard for me to figure something simple out for it.

jacktheclipper
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raccoon city
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Welcome to this nice place, Serifus!

Best0270

SerifusSerifus2

Serifus
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Does any one know how the driver board is attached to the head? it seems that the xml’s in mine are nolonger heatsinking to the head, and rattle. I’ve started taking measurements for for board dimensions, and seeing how much room I have to work with.

Serifus
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OK well, after a little bit of gentile blow torching, and a little bit of a push on the back of the board thought the button hole. I got the driver out, tightened the reflector back on and replaced the TIM. Also got a good pic of the board if anyone is interested, if anyone more interested, I can get a macro of the driver, if anyone wants before I glue the driver back in. Anyways, here’s the shot I got of the driver.

JohnnyMac
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Glad you were able to fix things. Looks like there's a lot of room to play around inside the pill. A high quality macro of the driver would be great to have if anyone is thinking of modding one. Wink

Pavithra_uk
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Looks like Microcontroller + 3x buck drivers

Is it ATTiny13A ?

As johnny said, macro photo of driver would greatly help other members to identify components and advice you mods

Pavithra_uk
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that 4468 SOIC is N-Channel MOSFET

http://aosmd.com/pdfs/datasheet/AO4468.pdf

Serifus
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Since i’ve already had a few too many beer to want to dig out the macro tube, ill do it tomorrow. i hope that someone that is more capable with micro controllers is able to get good information from this. reprogramming this thing would be epic.

FX-32
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Serifus wrote:
Since i’ve already had a few too many beer to want to dig out the macro tube, ill do it tomorrow. i hope that someone that is more capable with micro controllers is able to get good information from this. reprogramming this thing would be epic.

Please posts macro shots!

One thing I always wanted in the KING, is to keep pressed the button for two secs to turn on, and if pressed once (for less than 2s), it will flash. So you can have a manual strobe. In some situations I really need this feature.

Serifus
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Well, it turns out that i have to Re-glue my macro tube, but, here have a high-er res close up of the driver, I figure it will hold your attention until the glue dries

Serifus
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As far as i can see, pin 1 pin 7 and pin 8 have traces, however there seems to be a trace running under it, which i can not tell where it goes also the button goes to pin 4 i dont know if that is enough to help determine which micro controller it is, or how best to reprogram it if possible.


FX-32
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Awesome Macros! Thanks.
Have you tried to read the SOIC8 with a programmer?

Serifus
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I would, if i had anything to read it with. It was surprisingly easy to get the driver out, i think i might even be possible to remove without even heating the head, i only heated it to like 50-60C and pushed it out thought the hole that the switch uses. if you have a programmer, you could try with your king.

emkay
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I received a faulty one from lightmalls, only 2 of the 3 leds are functional.

They wanted me to send it back at my expense, which worked out more than I paid for it in the first place. Paypal was no good either, even though I won the dispute against lightmalls – again it had to be sent back (online tracked with proof of delivery) at my own expense before they would refund me.

So, no thanks to lightmalls (I recommend you don’t use them btw as they have very poor customer service) its now been sacrificed for experimentation instead.

I’ve managed to break it down to its individual components the same as Serfius has, I couldn’t get the driver board out from the battery side, but it pushed out easily from the front once I took out the reflector.

It is just a very tight fit, there doesn’t seem to be any glue holding it in place. It presses back in place ok without being loose.

I’ve swapped the leds around and proved that the driver board is fine, its just one of the leds doesn’t work.

They seem to be glued to the pill using a sticky white thermal paste, does anyone want any pictures of the internals ?

texaspyro
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Pin 4 is ground on the Atmel ATTINYxx chips so that rules out them. It probably some sort of PIC.

revolver
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Speaking of King mods… Anybody else see this vid ? It’d be super neat it someone could figure out how to put a battery voltage monitor in there and have it flash the capacity in colors every few seconds while off. Locator + battery gauge in one!

texaspyro
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Oh, and the current sense resistor looks like it is that R010 resistor in parallel with the R068 which is probably 8.7 milliohms for the pair, but could be 87 milliohms depending upon how the maker marks their resistors.

raccoon city
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Welcome to the club, emkay!

Best0270

emkay1aemkay1b

emkay
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Can I directly replace these with U2 without changing anything on the driver ?

JohnnyMac
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Emkay, I would test the LED in question first by connecting 3.6v directly to the star contacts to make sure it is the LED and not just a broken wire or bad solder at the driver.

scaru
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Emkay, if you do try johnnymacs suggestion, ( I would) just use a partially depleted 18650. 

JohnnyMac
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scaru wrote:

Emkay, if you do try johnnymacs suggestion, ( I would) just use a partially depleted 18650. 

Exactly. Freshly charged 4.2v might damage the emitter. 3.6v should be fine.
scaru
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JM, it really depends on the cell. IMR cells can easily kill them but the crappy trustfire cells will work just fine cause of voltage drop. Either way just run it in another light for a bit. Big Smile 

DrJones
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Ah, great idea to push the driver out through the switch hole... I finally got it out! Thanks, Serifus Smile 

Now I have plans... ^_^

ryansoh3
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DrJomes, you know more about chip programming than most of us.

Eagerly waiting for to your magic! :bigsmile:

BLF ≠ B-grade Flashlight Forum

 

Pavithra_uk
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There are 3 SOT-23-6 Buck drivers + external FET.

PIC/AVR send PWM signals though 10K resistors.

Serifus
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Good luck with the micro controller Dr Jones. Also it seems ive finaly found my self some time to do some sketching around in Eagle. if this all works out the way I hope it does, I’m probably only going to be getting more kings in the future.

emkay
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the problem is connectivity between the circuit board and the led

If I apply power to the corner of the led it works

gords1001
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I would be tempted to get 3 xm-l u2’s on 16mm stars, ditch that one and keep the two functional ones for other projects…. 0:) J)

texaspyro
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You should be able to resolder the connection or solder on a wire.

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