(I can't find the answer online, but did find others asking.)
Would someone please tell me if an OEM Surefire momentary/twisty will work on a Solarforce L2 and/or L2p? And if so, what model Surefire switch? 6P, G2...?
I understand the L2 is the most 'faithful' copy of the 6P (important differences being metal and accepting 18650, of course--not to mention the obnoxious bezel). I don't know if the L2 18650 tube vs Surefire 2 * CR123 tubes make any difference in threads. I had a friend who owns a 6P try his switch on a WF-501B tonight, and it threaded but didn't light. But my L2 switch doesn't work on my 501B (spring too short?), and 501b's only have 3 threads, vs 6P's six. My WF-504B and L2 are much more similar to each other.
Someone around has got to have both a Surefire and an L2 or 504b! :)
P.S. I know that there is a Chinese momentary switch being sold out there for Surefires, but don't know if it has the same robust/ubersimple/ high current-tolerant design, or if that fits L2's?
I want to try a non-clicky P60 host switch; I like Surefire's approach.
Old4570, thanks very much for trying that. Would you please fill in the gaps:
- Which model Surefire tailcap did you try?
- Did the tailcap actually light up/turn on both the L2 and the L2P (not just screw on, but actually function/illuminate them--momentary and twist?)
Budgeteer -- yes, I have tape switches, thanks. I even rigged up a faux/kluged "side switch" by rubber-banding the tape switch. Only lights for as long as you hold it, but, it is cool for limited purposes.
The Surefire is not really a forward clicky. It's not really a clicky at all. You screw it on fully, and it lights up. You partially unscrew, and it only lights when you push in the button. Unscrew further, and it's locked out. I've never actually used one.
Thre must be a way to get a switch similar to the one in the famous UF-H3D. Its an electronic switch which is alot quieter than a standard clicky. It does not bother me taht uses some current at standby but i don't belive it's easy to gat one that comfortably deliver 1A.
In the search for a silent switch for p60 hosts and similar i have yet to find a suitable replacement. The solarforce s3 is almost silent if youre carefull while clicking it. The problem is that id does not fit many p60 tailcaps beacuse of it size. In the original form also does not fit many lights because the internal threads are HA anodized and the contact rely only on the inner tailcap ring for electrical conductivity. I have ony 1 L2 solarforce with 2 orings at the end that fits the thing right. Well alsmost, i had to disassemble the switch and put some solder on the outer ring of the switch PCB (0,5mm) and now it makes good contact. Removing the anodizing would very well work but i did not wish to do so.
Being unsatisfied with the budget offerings for silent switches i decided to make my own. It would be a tailcap twist (Potentiometer like button) like the last on the right. That approach would get me some waterproofing if done correctly. I will do my best to make the switch reliable and for currents up to 5A. The goal is to make a reliable, silent, higly conductive and waterproof not watertight that fits in standard P60 endcaps.
Currently undecided as i have 5 other ideas for the same goal. If there is interest i might be persuaded to do a good batch of switches made as professionally as possible on a good equipment. I know the right ppl but i can guess the switches will not probably end up cheap. At least not under 5€ each. Workshop work will be the most expensive.
While Germans tend to be overzealous at times when it comes to machining tolerances and perfection, it still wouldn't cost that much.
You're paying for the brand name, and the reputation because such items are used by LEOs. Such things will go a long way.
I happen to have a regular solarforce L2 and a standard surefire 6P (both built 2010), and their endcaps/ switches will interchange and work as supposed.
I just checked again, both switches on both models.
Just as old4570 mentioned, the fit of the solarforce switch is not as tight on the threads, but still OK; something I could live with.
Surefire Z41 momentary/twisty tailcaps have worked fine on any L2 body I've tried, with the small exception of a Solarforce 18650 L2 extension tube. And even that tube worked after sanding back about 1mm of the black coating on the inner lip of the tube so the Z41's plate could contact bare metal.
