Hi.
I need to buy a driver board to power an XM-L T6. I’ve looked through DX and can’t really see anything that seems right.
Please can someone recommend one (somewhere that ships to the UK and pref for free or cheap).
- Happy to consider any recommended setups.
- In an idea world I’d like a 2 or 3 mode driver (Hi/Low or Hi/Mid/Low). Always starting on high, no disco modes. High must run at 2.8-3.0A current.
Voltage range 3.0 - 8.4v would be fine as it’s being powered by 2 cells.
Thank you.
Th only one I found that is 3mode and handles over 4 volts is this one but it’s 21mm so it won’t fit a standard 17mm pill like a P-60
I will say if it fits it delivers 2.8amps to the LED on high has 3 nicely spaced modes plus thermal and low voltage protection
Is the maximum of 2.8-3.0 amps absolute? Because if you want more power you can always put a 4 amp driver on it (meant for SST-50, but works the same).
Thanks that looks ideal. Size shouldn’t be an issue it’s going in a Mag host with a custom heatsink.
Thanks again 
I did see an SST50 driver on DX (shame about all the modes on it… 
) But I was reading a thread the other day about XM-L output vs current and I think the jist was that at 4.0A you get a lot more heat but for only very marginal gains. I’d rather deal with less heat and have a more reliable light than go lumen chasing.
I’ve personally had okay success with this driver but quite a few others have experienced problems of different kinds. It is the same driver as the Kaidomain Super P7.
What sort of problems have people had with it?
I’m not sure about the heat issues, but if you can mount it on a copper PCB and give it good contact to the host it should be okay for 4 amps.
3 amps for a T6 reads 950 lumens, while 4 gives 1100 lumens. It’s not a noticeable difference actually. Yeah you’d be better off going for 3 amps then :bigsmile:
What about heat sinking the driver? Any tips on doing this, as evidently I don’t want to short anything.
You can pot the driver with thermal glue. Which means you fill up all the gaps, and so instead of it being filled with air, it’s filled with a thermal glue which will carry the heat faster to the body of the light.
If you were to use that lck-led 3a board with 3 xm-l:s, do you connect them in series then?
It’s for a worklight I’m considering modding, but I’m also starting a magmod,
It would be sweet with 3 xm-l:s with 20mm? optics in my old Dmag…
I have installed over a dozen of these from LCKLED in various lights without a problem. I currently have one in my personal light I have been using for a while as well with no issues
Thanks E1320, I’ll be ordering it first thing tomorrow morning.
If you search CPF for Kai super p7 driver it’s all there. Like I said, they’ve worked for me but some found that max current was low or the modes did not work, others found that the low voltage sense was off and kept cutting out of high, still others found the temp sense was off and kept cutting out. Later, a 5-mode version was produced and people would be sent the wrong version. As with most things a size able percentage of these problems were probably operator error but when every similar driver on the market cost 3-5 times as much you have to wonder about quality control. Buy it but don’t be surprised if it’s goofy. By the way, I really like the lack of blinky modes on mine.
The LD-29 sounds like fits your description perfectly, bottom diameter 20.5mm though. 2 mode groups including high-med-low. 2.8A in high mode, uses 1 or 2 batteries. I’m considering getting a couple of these: