Why I like the Hi-CRI Nichia 219 (Now with comparison pics)

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Slim Pickens
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Why I like the Hi-CRI Nichia 219 (Now with comparison pics)

tint ≈ 9:30AM Sun 8)

I did this whitewall shootout a few weeks ago. White balance is my camera’s generic “Daylight” setting. Wall is painted Optic White.

Top row: Mag 2-cell Xenon [2C alkaline], XM-L T4 4000k 5A3 tint bin [unfortunately the incan reflector makes this tint look brutal and the light is underdriven here (maybe ~600mA), 2AA NiMH, Sipik SK68 1-mode driver], Nichia 219 B10 4500k SW45 tint bin [Rebel reflector, 2AA NiMh, modified Nanjg110 boost driver]
Bottom row: XM-L T5 5000k 3C [Rebel ref., draws 3A from a Sanyo 18650], Mag2D XP-E [probably 2A/2D tint bin from comparing it to my other lights, a nice cool tint], Mag ML125 [Shot in the dark: 1C or 1S tint bin. Not as similar to the XP-E Mag as suggested here, more blue with a hint of green]

Empirical observations:
While the shootout don’t perfectly represent each tint individually/perfectly (fixed white balance), the comparison gives a good impression if you’re familiar with some of the tints. The 219 Mag2C has seen three weeks’ use since and the tint has cooled an iota. Right now I’m shining both the 2C-219 and XM-L 3C Mags at my perfectly white dorm room wall. It is readily apparent the 219 is a tad warmer but it’s not the dramatic a difference shown above. Both tints appear a little closer against a 40w incandescent. I think Nichia’s SW45 bin is similar to Cree’s 4D bin?

The little guy works beautifully with the Rebel reflector and stacks up very nicely against my stock Mag 2D XP-E in terms of throw-tint and color rendering is not even close, of course-but I’ll have a nice outdoor comparison between the two and the XM-L T5 3C Mag this weekend.

Exposition Throw Shootout

Rebel reflectors, Cree 2D Mag draws ~1.4 amps at the tailcap. Nichia 219 2C Mag (Nanjg110 driver) draws 2.5 amps from 2xNiMH.

Edited by: Slim Pickens on 09/27/2012 - 20:33
garrybunk
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I really need to get me one of these!

What's the "sweet spot" to drive these at?  2A?

-Garry

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SashiX
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Lovely shot, Slip Love

Lothar
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Wow, awesome shot. What Kelvin is the Nichia 219 and how does it compare to a XML 3C (5000K)

Do you have any more different tint drop-in’s you can take pictures of? Smile

PCC
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garrybunk wrote:

I really need to get me one of these!

What’s the “sweet spot” to drive these at?  2A?

-Garry


They’re rated up to 1.5A.

In my eyes the beam appears to be a bit pink, but, you don’t notice it in use. Colors just pop when you put that beautiful beam onto something. It’s really eye opening.

DrJones
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Any idea meanwhile where to get them on 16mm boards?

They usually are 4500K iirc.

apt323
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I think Old Lumens has driven them at 1.9a in atleast one of his projects

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———4B XPG———————————4C XPG—————————-Nichia 219

On a multi mode light I run them at 1 amp on high and 2 amps on turbo on a single mode light I run them at 1.5 amps

I am already visualizing the duct tape over your mouth.

Slim Pickens
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Nice comp shot, E. Thanks.
I’ll put up shots from a whitewall shooutout once I get back to my laptop.

Slim Pickens
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The pic in the OP was the result of my first attempt at reflowing! Party
The 219 and the 16mm XP-series board are both from (you guessed it!) IlluminationSupply.

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That is such a lovely, creamy white color. I have 2 of those at home and I havent done anything with them yet. Sad

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DrJones wrote:
Any idea meanwhile where to get them on 16mm boards? They usually are 4500K iirc.
Buy them bare and reflow onto XP-G 16mm stars. That's what I have started doing.

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DrJones
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Never done that before. Add a bit of solder, lay LED on top, heat from below? Blowtorch or pan?

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DrJones wrote:
Never done that before. Add a bit of solder, lay LED on top, heat from below? Blowtorch or pan?

I usually do that directly on a ceramic glass cooktop.. level 7 out of 9 usually works fine, lower could also be fine. Smile

Has anyone ever as IS directly if it is possible to get the LEDs reflowed onto the desired star?

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DrJones wrote:
Never done that before. Add a bit of solder, lay LED on top, heat from below? Blowtorch or pan?

Also add a bit of flux.  

Pan is easier for keeping the LED level but either will work.  

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I’ve got some solder paste, that should work I guess. Will try a syringe to apply it.

I just ordered Nichia bare emitters and some 16mm boards. I’ll see in 3 weeks…

Slim Pickens
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JohnnyMac wrote:

That is such a lovely, creamy white color. I have 2 of those at home and I havent done anything with them yet. Sad

The three lights I’ve built around the 219 see a lot of use because of that sweet tint! I have 2 on-hand and I really want one to replace the XP-G in my Maratac Cu. I have yet to figure out the trick to removing the pill yet.

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I have a really nice lighted magnifier in my shop except that it uses three small fluorescent tubes. I am going to replace them with either 6 or 9 of the ’219s.

Slim Pickens
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DrJones wrote:
Never done that before. Add a bit of solder, lay LED on top, heat from below? Blowtorch or pan?

I set the board on a cookie sheet with aluminum foil covering it. I put a tiny bit of solder where the emitter will sit. Then the pan goes on the stove over a low-medium flame. It does not take too long to for the solder to melt, maybe 1 minute. Practice on cheaper/fried emitters before doing the real thing

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I use regular 60/40 solder rosin core solder, (.032"dia), if the pads are not already pre-soldered, some are. I just use the soldering iron and pre-solder the pads with "just a touch of solder" and make sure it levels out. I set the led in place and heat the star from underneath, with the soldering iron (I hold the star in a vise) and I watch till the led settles onto the star. Take the iron off and blow on it a little, to help cool it faster. I've never had one ruined, as long as you just get the star hot enough to have the led settle down in.

 

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Slim Pickens
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(updated OP with comparison photos)
—————————————————————————

OldLumens, I like your idea. Tinning the PCB first and setting the emitter on the pad before heating again must alleviate the requisite fussing when placing the emitter perfectly in my method. Thanks for that!

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That wall shot looks like a bag of Skittles !  I'm really digging the Nichia, and the Neutral (3C) XM-L.

Thanks for the pics.

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DrJones
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I just reflow soldered 3 Nichia 219.

1st try was on a cook-top, trying to use the bit of solder that was already on the board. Bad idea; the board’s white coating got brown, the insulation layer smoked – and the LED didn’t solder onto it (no damage either).
Fortunately I ordered one excess board Smile

Then I took solder paste, applied it with a syringe, and heated with a normal lighter from below while holding it with locking tweezers. Success! Fast and simple Smile

Now I can order bare emitters and driver boards whenever that’s cheaper/better available Smile

Thanks BLF Smile

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thanks, what is the CCT of these Nichia 219’s?.
are they good for the eyes, as they do say between 3700-4300 is good.
also compared to the XML’s these only give out 200 or so lumens.
would it not be better to go for XML, & Incan?.

??
see;

True 90+ Hi CRI Warm White CREE XML P60 style replacement modules.

These are S6 flux 7A2 tint 3200k 90 cri emitters, S6 flux is the highest flux available in 90CRI. As with all XML emitters they have pretty good throw with a adequate amount of spill.

As with most warm white emitters these look much like a incan and the color rendition is great. At S6 flux it is the highest lumen Hi CRI single emitter I know of and only about 20 lumens less than a T2 flux. At 500+ lumens it is more than twice as strong as a 90+ CRI XPG.

thanks..

London !

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They are SW45 bin, so somewhere around 4500K.

Incan in a flashlight? Not really efficient. And the great thing about the Nichia is that it is very close to sunlight. The high-CRI XMLs are very orange, just like incans. Great if you like warm white.. but not everybody does.

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I’ll wait for a Cree version now… the Nichias dedome on you if you breathe on them. Ruined 2 out of 4. I gave them up. With my poor night vision, they just don’t have the lumens.

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