Maglite 2D - 3XM-L T6 - TIR optic, 8AA - Build thread - Beam shots in Post#36

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Old-Lumens
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Maglite 2D - 3XM-L T6 - TIR optic, 8AA - Build thread - Beam shots in Post#36

I am using a 2D Black Maglite to make a 3up XM-L T6 with a TIR optic. Remember I asked what the 50mm optic I had, was for? Well it isn't XM-L, but it's going to be anyhow.Tongue Out

 

3up1

I'm using a 2D Incan Mag and I am going to use the 3up star with copper backing it up. I don't have any solid copper rod, so it's 20ga sheet sandwiched into a 3.something mm plate. I still have to clean up the plate later on. This is "WIP", LOL.

 

3up2

The plate is four pieces soldered together.

 

3up3

It all sits down on the inner lip in the Mag head. I had to cut down the star to fit the ID of the head.

 

3up4

The stack up fits good. I will use a glass lens over top of the optic and I'm not sure yet if I will leave the optic frosted or if I will polish it and make it clear. Once it's together I can see how the beam is and decide.

 

3up5

The aluminum heat sink will be screwed to the upper star and copper plates, so it will all be nice and tight.

 

3up6

3 - XM-L T6 3C emitters and 3 NANJG drivers, as well as two 4AA holders. I need to bore the body and remake the holders for 4S/2P. I still have lots to do...

Later..........

 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I've gotten a little more done this evening.

3uptir

The TIR optic was frosted, but I had two, so I polished one. This way I can see which one works the best. Polishing was done with 1000 grit sandpaper and spit. Yes, spit, for a wet sand. Works better than water. Yes, I cleaned it afterwards... On my pants leg.Tongue Out   After that, I used MAAS polish. Came out pretty good.

 

star1

LEDs on the star. They are glued on with AA.

 

driver1

Drivers are wired up.

 

switch1

The switch is a combination of a Maglite housing with a Judco 10 amp switch inside it.  The Mag shell has to be opened up, to fit the Judco and then a shelf has to be made, for it to set on. The photo below shows that. Now that it's in place, the whole thing will be filled up with epoxy, to hold everything nice and tight.

switch12

The bottom side shows the plastic bushing. It is a hard bushing and is a squeeze/press fit, to make a shelf for the Judco to set on.

That's it for tonight, time to get some rest...

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 Well, I went ahead and changed the copper heat sink, by adding enough thickness, so I could eliminate the original star. Now it's all copper under the leds.

123q

The copper plate weight 2.6 ounces now and the whole heat sink, copper and aluminum, weighs in at 5 ounces.

 

 

213q

The drivers are mounted to the bottom of the aluminum heat sink.

312q

Looks like I got a little wiring to do here...

 

 

w123

The switch is ready. I used Epoxy to fill in around the Judco switch. It won't move around at all now.

w123

wq23

The contact for the batteries is copper, but I coated it with solder, since copper tarnishes very fast and you won't be able to clean the contact. Solder will tarnish too, but it's slower.

 

That's it for now, more to come, getting close now!

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Well, I got everything finished up between last night and this morning. It Works!

 

The battery holder is two of the 4 AA holders put together and modified for 4S/2P, with copper contacts.

b1

b2

b3

b5

 

 

tcs1

 Tail cap spring mod with copper braid.

 

tirf1

tirf2

 Frosted TIR and the beam. I didn't have the right camera out here, so the shots were not in manual. I just did it to show the difference in frosted and clear.

 

 

tirc1

tirc2

 Clear TIR and the beam. I didn't have the right camera out here, so the shots were not in manual. I just did it to show the difference in frosted and clear.

 

Mouseover

mouseover

 

 The frosted is first, the clear is on mouseover. The clear has a large dead spot, the frosted does not.

 

I will be doing some beam shots tonight and I will compare the frosted to the clear.

 

I still have some cosmetic mods to do... mebbe...  but the light works! The master driver is one that E1320 changed the program on, so it's five mode. The battery pack tested to 5.07 volts before I used it.

The amp draw on High was 7.5 amps. It started out at a little over 8 amps on turn on and then settled to 7.5 amps, so it's no mega light for sure. I would imagine it doesn't put out more than 1500 lumens with the frosted TIR and probably about 1600+ lumens with the clear TIR.

It's not a mega light and if you want lumens, then you're better off with a Dry. I just don't want to mislead, I don't care about the lumens, I care about the build and how I did it and that's all.

In 30 seconds, the head was heating up, in 1 minute, the body was heating up, where I had my hand holding the light. In 2 minutes I shut it off. Not too hot to handle, but hotter than I would want to run a light. Obviously the copper heat sink is getting the heat out to the head and body, so it's working as it should. I figure the TIR will be the first thing to melt. The legs of the TIR sit in the copper plate, so the legs will probably warp before anything else does. (If the light is left on high till the batteries run out that is).

Beam shots tonight...

 

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Edited by: Old-Lumens on 10/18/2012 - 03:13
NightCrawl
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That looks interesting and promising. Wink

jamio
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AA in the title always attract my attention Smile  Seems to be a very nice project Old-Lumens, Mag with 3x neutral white xml's, 8AA in custom built holder, I'm looking forward to how it'll continue!

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NightCrawl wrote:

That looks interesting and promising. Wink

Agreed! Can't wait to see how it performs.
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Got a little more done, see first post, now it's time to rest...

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why did you glue the xml stars to that big star anyway? you’ll get more thermal resistance afaik

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So this light is favoured more towards flood?
This looks like a turbocharged TK45! Can’t wait to see it in action OL.

Slewflash 

benz
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Could you please give a little more detail on how the drivers are wired up?

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janko.hrasko wrote:
why did you glue the xml stars to that big star anyway? you'll get more thermal resistance afaik
I was lazy. I didn't want to cut another two of those copper rounds (blisters) and I figured I would just use the plate. I know it's better to not use it.

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benz wrote:
Could you please give a little more detail on how the drivers are wired up?

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/7272#node-7272

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Slewflash wrote:
So this light is favoured more towards flood? This looks like a turbocharged TK45! Can't wait to see it in action OL.
Should be floody, but with two optics, one clear and one frosted, at least I can test them both out on the same light and have beam shots of both.

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Old-Lumens wrote:

janko.hrasko wrote:
why did you glue the xml stars to that big star anyway? you’ll get more thermal resistance afaik
I was lazy. I didn’t want to cut another two of those copper rounds (blisters) and I figured I would just use the plate. I know it’s better to not use it.

I know it’s probably too late for this suggestion, but I would’ve heated up that triple MCPCB to remove the white solder mask, sanded it down a little, then you’ll have a blank aluminum plate.

Good luck with the build anyway! I always look forward to your builds Smile

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MosesM wrote:
Old-Lumens wrote:

janko.hrasko wrote:
why did you glue the xml stars to that big star anyway? you'll get more thermal resistance afaik
I was lazy. I didn't want to cut another two of those copper rounds (blisters) and I figured I would just use the plate. I know it's better to not use it.

I know it's probably too late for this suggestion, but I would've heated up that triple MCPCB to remove the white solder mask, sanded it down a little, then you'll have a blank aluminum plate. Good luck with the build anyway! I always look forward to your builds :)

I went ahead and cut two more copper plates and now the T6 led stars are on copper, no aluminum board.

Wink

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nice project.

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More photos added in the first post. The leds are on copper now and it's shaping up well.

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Looking good, Justin! Cool

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I love your work Justin.

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Copper, on copper, on copper. That’s hot!

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nice build Smile

what adhesive you used for mount LED to copper ? Arctic alumina ?

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Pavithra_uk wrote:
nice build Smile what adhesive you used for mount LED to copper ? Arctic alumina ?
Yes

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Is that a Ledil Rocket or a knock off?

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Rufusbduck wrote:
Is that a Ledil Rocket or a knock off?
Knock off, as far as I know. They are made well, but they don't look like any current "big name".

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The light is working. Beam shots tonight. Photos in the first post, show the rest of the build.

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Looking forward to the for sale thread. Big Smile I don't think you will be melting the TIR optics anytime soon, PILOTPTKs module also has them resting on copper and the body of my light got uncomfortably hot and the TIR optics were fine. 

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O-L, beautiful!  However, the mouseover isn't working for me.

-Garry

My Bike Lights Thread, Optics (TIR) Comparison Beamshots, Diffusion Techniques

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I would solder the braid on the next loop down on the spring (at the point the top loop ends). You should get a lot more contact area and lower resistance that way… the way it is soldered now you probably only get contact at the bump in the braid.

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garrybunk wrote:

O-L, beautiful!  However, the mouseover isn't working for me.

-Garry

It does now.

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Yep, works!  Thanks!

-Garry

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Beautiful work with the 219s OL. I still use my nichia 2AA maglite everyday because of the tint. Whoever gets this will be one lucky duck!
But i think lumens will be around 800 because these are 219s we are talking about, afterall.

Slewflash 

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Slewflash: In the 6:th picture from the top you see 3 xm-l:s, 16mm I think.

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borstar_micke wrote:
Slewflash: In the 6:th picture from the top you see 3 xm-l:s, 16mm I think.
Also states that in the title and description. 3 XM-L T6.Wink

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