Yet Another Sipik SK68 Clone - $4.99 shipped

http://www.amazon.com/SODIAL-300lm-Flashlight-Torch-Adjustable/dp/B009NAE3YM/

Thanks to SD for this one.

Single mode…I doubt the lumens rating. Good price.

Here’s a plot of a single mode Sipik clone on a single alkaline AA cell. Starts out around 60 lumens. After 45 minutes it falls off the cliff to 3 lumens. Center line of the plot area is 30 lumens.

thanks for the info

how about with a 14500 cowboy? (would be nice)

I just ordered one, more than anything to see how it compares and if it has a solid pill. Can’t have too many of these things.



SK68's are absolutely all over the place in terms of performance with both NiMH, Alkaline and Li-Ion. Here's a rundown of the current draw with those 3 battery types across my 6 examples. Values represent current draw in Amps:

NiMH @ 1.36v Alkaline @ 1.61v Li-Ion @ 3.99v
Sipik SK68 (Silver, from DD): 2.15 2.09* 1.16
Sipik SK68 (Black, from eBay): 1.10 0.98 1.46
Unbranded (Silver, from TomTop): 1.47 1.40 1.66
UltraOK ZS-2 (Black, from eBay): 0.61 0.55 0.76
UltraOK ZS-2 (Silver, from eBay): 1.12 1.04 0.95
Ultrashine 3-mode (Black, from eBay) (HI) 1.67 1.65 1.23

*The Silver SK68 from DD started at around 1.55A on Alkaline and kept rising until it peaked at 2.20A before finally settling down to about 2.09A, whatever that means (probably something to do with voltage sag). None of the others exhibited this behaviour (most likely because they weren't trying to pull as much current).

I performed all those measurements twice, under the same conditions, so they're accurate.

SK68 performance is randomly generated it seems, and the brand seems useless for making any sort of predetermination. Both my UltraOK clones were from the same seller too.

Pretty much everything else about the lights is variable as well (tint, projected die size in throw mode, overall beam profile etc).

You’ll be sorry if you miss this one it’s a lot better deal.

I don’t have any 14500 batteries :frowning: I did try a PowerGenix NiZn battery in it and got around 70 lumens at the start (call it 10% more than alkaline). The NiZn cells have a 1.65V starting voltage (also 10% more than alkaline).

I did try a lab supply set to 3.9V It drew 1.5A and put out 145 lumens. The alkaline cell drew 1.5A and the NiZn cell drew 1.1A

BTW, I got mine from TomTop

nice chart cainn [quote=texaspyro]

I don’t have any 14500 batteries :frowning: I did try a PowerGenix NiZn battery in it and got around 70 lumens at the start (call it 10% more than alkaline). The NiZn cells have a 1.65V starting voltage (also 10% more than alkaline). I did try a lab supply set to 3.9V It drew 1.5A and put out 145 lumens. The alkaline cell drew 1.5A and the NiZn cell drew 1.1A BTW, I got mine from TomTop
[/quote]

Me too!

@cainn

Visually do you notice as much a variation in performance/brightness as the readings suggest there might be?

The OP’s deal is now “currently unavailable”.

Yeah I was thinking about this too….Does the higher numbers translate in brighter flashlights?
How do I measure those amps? Any apparatus needed and how to connect it?

Good question. The short answer is, yes and no, and not always as you'd expect based on the tail cap readings. The long answer is in the table below. I did some ceiling bounce lux readings at 2m with beeCam light meter on my phone:

Current Draw Lux (flood/throw)
NiMH Li-Ion NiMH Li-Ion
Sipik SK68 (Silver, from DD): 2.15 1.16 16 / 11 31 / 22
Sipik SK68 (Black, from eBay): 1.10 1.46 22 / 16 51 / 35
Unbranded (Silver, from TomTop): 1.47 1.66 26 / 18 60 / 41
UltraOK ZS-2 (Black, from eBay): 0.61 0.76 12 / 9 32 / 21
UltraOK ZS-2 (Silver, from eBay): 1.12 0.95 23 / 16 41 / 28
Ultrashine 3-mode (Black, from eBay) (HI) 1.67 1.23 16 / 12 36 / 26

The results didn't always make a lot of sense to me, so I went back and did some tail cap readings again afterwards, but it turns out I got them right the first 2 times, so now I'm just left scratching my head as I look over some of the anomalies.

Of course one has to ask how much one can trust ceiling bounce lux readings done with a mobile phone. The answer is, probably not very much, and possibly doubly so given the particular conditions. All this has inspired me to get a proper lux meter.

Having said all that though, the silver TomTop clone is indeed the brightest of the bunch visually. I have no idea whatsoever what is going on with the DD SK68 on NiMH though. Just strange. The numbers change around a bit if you start swapping around tail switches, but not by much. Even when bypassing the tail switch on the DD SK68 completely the lux readings are pretty much the same (way lower than current draw would suggest).

Anyway, as potentially flawed as this comparison may be, it's been fun (I got to use tables!). Might as well add some beam shots too:

Left to right, top to bottom: UltraShine 3-mode, TomTop clone, SK68 (black), ZS-2 (black), ZS-2 (silver), DD SK68 (silver)


Note: No one out there should run off and buy a TomTop clone just because my results suggest that it's the brightest. Similarly, no-one should avoid a black UltraOK clone, or a Silver SK68 from DD, just because they fared poorly. There's so much variance between clones even of the same name, even from the same seller, that it's more about luck of the draw than anything else. You'd need to look at a sample size orders of magnitude bigger than mine for it to be valuable, but even then...

Thanks for taking the time to do this. Appreciated.

BTW - what emitter do these SK68’s use? XP-E or XR-E, they both have 3 stripes don’t they?

They’re almost always XR-Es. Q3 or Q5 bin mostly, although there are some Q4’s around too (manafont for example). But I don’t think I really even trust the advertised bin to be the actual bin anyway.

Heard from someone here (don’t remember who) that occasionally you might find one with an XP-E in it. Any yeah, 3 strips in the middle. See: Cree - Flashlight Wiki

Interestingly, none of those shown above were 7 watts as they are commonly listed for sale. From the huge sample of 1 light from BBQ SK68 clone lights bought off Amazon it did just hit 7 watts with 14500.

I noticed the quality has gone down a little on my last batch I ordered from TomTop (black ones). Ordered late September @ CAD5.35 each.

I haven't done any tail cap measurements but here are some differences I noticed:

  • The pill doesn't have the 2 indents for you to unscrew it from the head if you need to replace/repair the led or driver
  • the plastic retainer on the tail cap doesn't have the 2 holes
  • the orange tail cap is lesser quality and somewhat see through

I suspect this batch is either from a different manufaturer; cheaper parts used; or changed parts design so it's not easily repairable.

My TomTop clone breaks 7 watts (when measured at the tail, anyway) when using a Li-Ion hot off the charger (at 4.10+ volts). Measures around 1.85A. But you don’t get that for very long.

Great collection of info — deserves to be promoted/made permanent somehow.