SR95 UT gone under the knife

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
1

I bought a SR95 UT with the intent to mod it into a Jumbo Elephant, decided against & sold it.

As it turned out, the light went DOA at buyer & thus end back at my hands, this must be fate, as this time, there is no reason for me not to put it under the knife.



So here we go:



Size reference vs. the baby Elephant (Mag 1D size)



Bezel removed, the reflector is screwed in. To un screw, there are two slots on the edge, so I made a SR95 UR reflector removal tool:


Led & heat sink (Brass) view with the reflector removed:


Remove the 3 screws from under the neck:


View of Driver: There are two thin wires connecting the momentary switch to the driver, the pos. wire appears to have broken. I could re-connect it & fix the light, however, I felt that the fate of this light is to be destined for Jumbo Elephant destiny, so I went ahead with driver removal instead of fix & restore.



Remove the 4 screws from heat sink & lift it up, you can see the thin wire down in the tube (broken)


Driver & led/heat sink removed. You can see one thin wire connecting to switch ( the other is broken)


Close up view of the driver. The driver is fine, just had the momentary switch solder joint broke off.
It’ll be a good driver for building a spot light, as it’s quite large. I want to modify the light to have a smaller neck, so this driver will not be re-used.

There appears to be two solder point for led , the OEM connection used the top one of the two next to the mark that I marked.


The other side has the led "-" connection at the lower left corner:



Bottom of the PCB, it’s copper. This appears to be common for Light SR51 to 91 to 95 series, very nice
ceramic PCB with copper under. Thermo pas missed 1/4 of the PCB. They could have done a little better.



I cut the head off from the neck, as I am going to mount smaller neck & 3x18650 Elephant body. I don’t have everything figured out yet, but one thing for sure, I am now on the road of no return…
2

Wow! I hate seeing such a nice light get cut up. :'( Good luck with the mod though!

3

Some time I can’t stop pushing buttons, sorry :stuck_out_tongue:

4

Go get 'em ma_

I know you will make it come out unique and well done.

Looking forward to it!

5

ill be looking for this one in the marketplace masha lol….

cool stuff!

my sr90 had like no thermal paste in it either lol… a little disappointing from an expensive light… but i enjoy taking them apart and improving them so its all good :slight_smile:

good luck!

6

jm, you must have nerves of steel, taking apart my 100 dollar X6 freaks me out.

7

of flashlights. “It’s alive, it’ssssssssssssssssssssssssssss aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaliiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiive!!!. Oh sh*t!!! This thing is trying to blind me!!!.”

8

Awesome! Thanks for sharing! That ceramic and copper emitter PCB looks very interesting! Though I feel that the brass heatsink is slightly underwhelming…maybe it’s just me :bigsmile:
Good luck with the build!

9

How could that thing die already?? Isn’t it warrantied?

Oh, wait…you wanted an excuse to do surgery! Carry on.

10

Is this new one going to be a monster thrower too? I like your cuts, they look very clean and straight.

11

the most nerve wracking moment I had was modifying my trustfire tr-j12 with the KD boost driver, then adding resistance mods (to lower resistance even more) and then popping 3 fresh unprotected imrs in and pressing the tail cap…. i knew that when i did the boost driver would be putting out somewhere around 100 watts

3 fresh imrs going nuclear would have ruined my day

12

+1 :beer:

13

Thanks OL!

Agree with brass heatsink not the best choice, it’s more expensive than alu., more heavy & has 1/2 the thermo conductivity of alu It’d be cheaper & better to use Alu.
I don’t understand why most p60 base use brass either

Very True, I paid insurance on shipping also but USPS is PITB to deal with.
excuses, excuses >)

Throw should be similar to OEM just smaller & better looking.

14

Thanks OL!

Agree with brass heatsink not the best choice, it’s more expensive than alu., more heavy & has 1/2 the thermo conductivity of alu It’d be cheaper & better to use Alu.
I don’t understand why most p60 base use brass either

Very True, I paid insurance on shipping also but USPS is PITB to deal with.
excuses, excuses >)

Throw should be similar to OEM just smaller & better looking.

15

Gotta crack the shells to make scrambled eggs . . this is going to be tasty!

16

Well, you can easily solder to brass..

17

Good point, I suppose that’s useful for P60 platform due to soldering of PCB neg to the base is needed.

But for SR95, no soldering to the heatsink.
I tore apart an SR51 a while ago, it used the same heat sink design but it’s was alu.

It’s odd that Olight would go from Alu. down to Brass for heat sinking with such huge increase of current, went up to copper would have made more logical sense.

18

good job

19

I made a spacer again using mag D head so that I can put another Elephant body on it,
this is not the body but I’ll make another one just like it, so this is the finished look, except the knob.

20

Lookin' good ma_sha1.

Are you planning on selling it?