Review: 4A, 3-Mode 2.7-4.5V driver

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
1

This driver was bought from: http://www.intl-outdoor.com/4a-3mode-2745v-circuit-board-p-546.html

The circuit I received is FULL of surprises!

I’m powering this driver with three NiMH, LSD, Tenergy, C size cells.

All measured values are in the correct order. For example, in GroupA (H, M, L), the first high, medium and low outputs were taken at the same time. The values inside the asterics (*) were taken when the cells were fresh off the charger with an open circuit voltage of 4.32V.

This driver has FOUR gropus and 9 modes.
Groups follow the order A—>B—>C—>D—>A…

To change groups; in the lowest output of groups A and B , the steady mode of group C or the single mode of group D, after the three fast blinks (3.5secs), turn off then on the light.

GROUP A: HIGH, MEDIUM, LOW. High= 3.70A, 3.80A, 3.73A, 3.75A, 3.74A. Medium=1.72A, 1.78A, 1.67A, 1.67A, 1.67A, Low= 172mA, 178mA, 320mA, 300mA, 310mA.
From the values above, current consumption approximates High 100, Medium 44.5 and Low 8.5%.

GROUP B: RAMPING. Here, the group starts out in the lowest output, ramps up to medium where it blinks three times slowly before ramping up to high output where it blinks three time slowly then back to low and another three slow blinks. To start ramping the output, from the lowest output, turn off then on the light quickly. The light will blink three times slowly then start ramping up in brightness. To remain at a particular output, turn off then on the light quickly.To change GROPUS, in the lowest output, after 3.5 seconds, when the light will blink three times quickly, turn off then on the light.

Low= 30mA, 50mA, 50mA, 60mA. Medium= 1.62A, 1.51A, 1.63A, 1.49A. High= 3.79A, 3.74A, 3.70A, 3.75A.

From the values above, current consumption approximates: Low 1.4, Medium 42 and high, 100%

GROUP C: BLINKY OUTPUTS: Medium (700mA, 750mA, 760mA), Police strobe, Strobe, SOS.

GROUP D: High alone.

There is a special way to change from Group B back to Group A without going through groups C and D. When the light blinks three times quickly to change groups, turn off the light and put it back on AFTER two seconds. EDIT 30/10/12/11:12pm From ALL groups, when the light blinks three quick times (to change groups) if the light is turned off and put on after two seconds, it goes back to group A in low mode.

There is a really low output with a current draw of 10mA (probably around 2 lumens) which I sometimes get by fiddling with the switch however, this is not a mode option that can be chosen at any given time.

In general, I like this driver. There are a bunch of modes to choose from depending on your particular needs. The lowest output of this light is in the range of 12-15 lumens which considering the max current draw of 3.80A is quite low. I really like the option to bypass groups C and D since groups A and B are what I’ll be using the most.
What I don’t like is the three fast blinks you HAVE to tolerate. In high output in particular, the flashes are annoying. PWM is present but, it’s not such a low frequency that it’s annoying in the short term.

I’ll give this driver 4/5 stars.
Richard.

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Interesting driver. Regarding the max current, what is you setup for measuring current (DMM, Leads)?

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Nice, I may have to order a few of these to play with. It seems a good alternative to the nanjg drivers if you want a bit more current than 3a and don’t want to add 7135’s. Any chance you have an imr cell you could hook up to it, see if you see the full 4a? I’d kind of like it to sit at 3.7a tbh but there are many xm-l DD lights pushing at least 4a through an xm-l.

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Great, thnx!

How is the PMW? Can you notice it on low?

When is the memory set? When a mode is operated for longer than 2-3s (like the Nanjg 105C), or when the light has been turned off for longer than 2-3s (like the Manafont Ultrafire)?

The driver looks quite big, does it fit a P60 drop-in with relative ease?

Thnx

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I ordered three of them along with some u3 emitters, only thing I forgot to order was a big tube of fujik for potting……where’s the banging a head against a wall smilie?

One driver and led are going in my keygos m10, probably set to ramping. :bigsmile:

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Hikelite, the driver is in a 2D maglite with a solid P7 (I think) heatsink from H22A over in the CPF. The DMM is something mid range from extech that DOES NOT have an RMS current mode. Current draw is measured at the tailcap of the light.

gords: I charged the NiMH cells up and OCV measured 4.30V. I’m assuming that at that voltage, performance should be similar to a fully charged LiIon cell. I do have a 3.7V, 6600mAh, LiPo available however, ahem, I’m not ready at the moment to dismantle the light to connect it… yet… :stuck_out_tongue:

Lothar: PWM is not bad but, it’s not that great either. The nanjg drivers have an OBVIOUSLY higher frequency but, this driver is not so bad that it makes me sick. Sorry I can’t be more specific. I’ll suggest that if anyone is sensitive, they should stick with the nanjg drivers.

“When is the memory set?” Hmm… I don’t have the light with me to be specific but, modes are changed by quickly turning off then on the light so, it doesn’t need to be on for any length of time for the mode to set… I’ll get back to you about this.

The driver is not large. Diameter as the description says is about 16.7mm. Depth of the driver is not going to be an issue for most pills. I bought this host http://www.intl-outdoor.com/edc-18650-flashlight-host-p-535.html from the same site and given the small size of the pill, this driver can still fit.

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Thanks for the feed back. I have that edc host too. I’m just waiting on a new ld25 driver to arrive to finish it off. Gives me am idea how small this four amp driver is. And 3.7a at 4.3v is sounding brilliant. Plus with the ramping, it seems you’d never actually have to go that high if you didn’t want. I can’t wait to get one in my keygos m10. :party:

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“When is memory set?” To change modes, just after the three fast blinks, the light must be turned off then on within 0.5 seconds. If it is turned off for longer than 0.5 secs, it will go to the H, M, L group in the lowest output. (This is after the three blinks). So, as long as the light is not turned off just after the three quick blinks, the current mode stays unchanged.

gords, the EDC host, what LED did you use and how is your beam? Is it ringy? You can reply via PM.

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I don’t know yet, I buggered up my first driver and I’m waiting on the new one. I’m pretty sure its an op reflector so I’m hoping it’ll be nice and smooth, have a look in the edc18650 thread, there’s beamshots in there. :wink:

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Ah, I’m using a u2 led, but I have some u3’s on the way.

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Thanks for the review! I've just ordered one to try out in my HD2010. I expect it to be an awesome host/driver combination.

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Thanks very much! Sticky’d.

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Where else can one get this driver? They are currently sold out. :frowning:

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Did you get this done yet?

Thank you

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Not yet. I don’t order from I-O all that often and I’m not sure how long orders generally take to arrive. I did speak with Hank and he expected them to be available again sometime this week.

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Thanks for the update JohnnyMac :slight_smile:

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+1

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ANyone know when they’ll be back in stock?

Maybe Intl Outdoor should be in the thread title?

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Will it fit into the HD 2010 without problems? Has anyone had the pleasure to test it? :wink:

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I've just measured from the very top of the driver cavity to the bottom which is 10.9mm. I have this driver potted and to the shortest length that I could get it and it measures along with the retaining nut 10.9mm. It may fit in but there would be no room for excess LED wiring length and the chip on top of the driver would be sitting against the aluminium on the opposite side to the LED.