oooh I'm on fire - Maglite 1D build - Flames

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Old-Lumens
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oooh I'm on fire - Maglite 1D build - Flames

Hello,

I just had to show a little teaser on another 1D Maglite I am doing. It's something totally different for me and it worked!, so I'm showing you how it's going.

 Here's the light already cut down and the tail cap has the (will be), polished tail switch button beside it. The reflector is already fit in and the body cut and put back together.

mod1

 

 

First, a little music to get you into the mood:

 

 

 

 

I have wanted to do flames on a light for a long time, but I just never got to it, or didn't want to risk ruining a light. I finally took the plunge and it's an interesting way to do a simple two color light.

Here's the key to doing it:

f1

This tape is made for masking aluminum before anodizing. I figured if it worked for that, it would work for stripping the ano. It's Polyester tape with Silicone adhesive on it and it's high temp. I got it at Drillspot with free shipping. There's also a red version, which has a thicker layer of adhesive on it.

 

f2

I used my PSP8 program to print out a flames outline in the width and height I needed, to wrap around the body. I laid the pattern under a piece of glass and then I put the tape on top of the glass.

f3

I used a roller ball pen to mark the pattern on the tape and then cut the outline out with an Exacto knife, with a new blade. This was not easy. I used an 8x10 picture frame glass, gut I really needed a smaller one. I had to rotate the glass, while holding the knife, so I could get all the curves cut. I failed on the first two times, but got it done on the third time. After I got it cut, I wiped all the ink off, before taking the tape off the glass, to keep ink from bleeding into the adhesive.

 

Then I put the tape on the body.

f4

This was also hard. I had to hold the tape off the body and work it on very slowly, so it didn't warp. Then I spent a lot of time smoothing every edge with the flat of my finger nail. (I was at work and didn't have anything else). It took time to get every edge down so that there wasn't any way for the chemical to seep underneath (hopefully). I also sat the body under an incandescent light, to warm it slightly, so the tape would lay down better and hopefully stick better.

 

Well, it worked!!!

f5

This is after washing it off with water and then with alcohol. The tape stayed on even after an hour in Greased Lightning and It really cam out better than I hoped. The seam where the two ends of the tape come together was a big concern. I just made them long, overlapped them and cut thru with the exacto (very carefully), to make a tight seam. I had one small spot where it seeped in, but it's tiny and for a first try, I'm happy with it. Oh, the seam on the body (cut down seam), will go under the head when it's screwed down, so it won't show.

 

f6

I rubbed one spot with a little #0000 steel wool and hit it with a little polish. I think it's going to be a nice look when it's done. The whole head will also be polished and when it head stands, the flames will rise up toward the tail cap, (which will have a polished switch button on it).

 

There's still more to do, to finish the build, but I thought this would be a good teaser.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The head isn't polished yet, but here's an idea of how it's shaping up.

 

f7

 

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 The light is finished. Here's a few parting shots.

 

f8

3AA battery holder, redone with copper

 

f9

Heat sink and end cap for positive. No driver, Running DD

 

ft

Tail cap switch assembly & spring.

It's all the normal stuff I do for these 1D mods.

 

 

 

Finished light.

fd1

fd2

fd3

Old School light, flames and direct drive. Two modes, On'Off  Smile

XM-L T6 1C Direct Drive on 3 Eneloops. Beam shots tonight.

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Edited by: Old-Lumens on 11/09/2012 - 12:50
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First two photos: ISo 100, Daylight WB, F:2.7, 1 Second Shutter

zaq1

xsw2

 

 

asd

1/15 second, to show the spot size better.

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Very nice headline. I thought for a moment that you had got into lithium batteries and WHOOSH. Its good to here your not on fire and just being funny. Love the flames. Maybe you should take up oil painting Wink? Do you have a link for the tape?

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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Here's a search from Drillspot. The tape comes in all kinds of widths.

Here's a link to the Red tape with the thicker adhesive.

 

Here's the google search

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Nice, yet another light I want. Silly

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scaru wrote:

Nice, yet another light I want. Silly

Give other people a chance! Maybe wait at least 2 hours before you take it, to let other people experience the taste of Justin’s sweet builds Smile

Slewflash 

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Really enjoy finding out what you are up to next OL.

Particularly like the musical accompaniment.
I’m still annoying my kids with “Green Tambourine”.

However, for this project, I’m going to suggest you ditch Bruce and get a little bit more in the mood of the project.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c3qo0JXk_RE&feature=related
(Apols for not having the skills to imbed vid).

Now, I’m really feeling the mod! Davie

fireball

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Very nice, Justin!

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I’m not normally a flamer, but this looks great and is really starting to convert me! 0:) I also learned something, Greased lightning removes anodizing?Where can I get this in the east coast?-Rick
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RAW74 wrote:
I'm not normally a flamer, but this looks great and is really starting to convert me! 0:) I also learned something, Greased lightning removes anodizing?Where can I get this in the east coast?-Rick

Hard ware store. 

Sent From my Iphone 

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Drain cleaner is usually pretty much neat sodium hydroxide. It’ll do the job nicely.

For that matter, straight sodium hydroxide is cheap and easy to find. Just keep it off your skin and especially keep it well away from your eyes. It can eat metal – it can eat you a lot more easily.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

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Nice work Justin!!

That is a very creative idea, especially since the only type of work like that has been done using laser etching. You have demonstrated a simple, low cost solution for others wanting such detail.

Your work continues to inspire me!!

Hill

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Very cool technique!  Love it! 

I think "Greased Lightening" is also available in some Dollar Stores.

-Garry

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Beautiful work, Justin!

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Thanks, OL, keep thinking these things up. Good way to put names, initials, designs, etc. on lights.
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Justin, 

  After we had talked I was curious on how it would turn out.  All I can say is that it looks better than I'd ever imagine it could!  The flame graphics you found, the tracing and cutting, and the application thereof all look top notch.  Very nice work, sir!

-Tim

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Yeah, ya big hoarder. Always buying up multiples of things. Shocked

“When I buy something in bulk you should prolly buy at least one too.”…..“They that have light shall rule the night.”…..“Flashaholics feel depressed without darkness.”…….“I’m a very terminal torchaholic. My entire life just flashed before my eyes

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Ohhh yeeeaaahhh Love Old-Lumens Maglite series NEW!!! Silly

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I'm like a broken record, but nicely done !

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I use greased lightning because it's less caustic than drain cleaner. I don't know if drain cleaner would damage the tape, but I know I don't like to use it at all and Greased Lightning is much easier on my lungs.

ALWAYS use rubber gloves, safety glasses, long sleeves and long pants. This stuff will eat your skin on contact. Use it in a WELL ventilated area. Rinse thoroughly with water and I use 95% alcohol after the water.

 

I use it straight out of the bottle, into a plastic container. I put the parts in for a half hour and then I pick them out and rinse in water. I use #0000 steel wool, to wipe the parts, to knock off the film and usually I have to put them back into the bath for another half hour. Sometimes I have to turn them over, to get everything. Remember, you are removing two layers. The first layer is the color layer. The second layer is the ano and it looks like aluminum, since it's an almost clear layer. It takes longer to get the ano off. The color comes off fairly fast. If I had an aerated bath, it would speed up the process.

Type III ano is hard to remove. It usually takes more than a couple hours.

I don't throw away my GL after one use. I pour it back into the container and reuse it several times.

Here's a google search for Greased Lightning.

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I think many of us would have used the first or maybe the second set of flames and said ‘good enough’ and been dissatisfied with the result and given up. Nice work again Justin. Your attention to detail really pays off. Maybe you should start making two of each from now on. One for Scaru… And one for someone else. Wink

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I am fortunate enough to have access to highly concentrated NaOH which strips anno pretty quickly.  However, that being said, I have "over done" the process once before and have to monitor the reaction constantly.  The GS seems to be a more gentle approach in that it works a bit slower, hence more control over how much is being removed.

Thanks for the helpful information, Justin.

 

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Rufusbduck wrote:
Maybe you should start making two of each from now on. One for Scaru... And one for someone else. ;)
Ain't that the truthTongue Out

I have to wait to list it till about 2AM or 3AM hoping he's asleep, but I think he's got an OL alarm set on the forum somehow, LOL.

 I'll tell you, it was hard enough making one of those, I wouldn't want to make two. My nerves were shot by the third time cutting it out. I just wanted to run out screaming and pulling my hair out.YellSmile

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Old-Lumens wrote:
I use 95% alcohol after the water.

Thats tough. Silly

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rexdog wrote:
Really enjoy finding out what you are up to next OL. Particularly like the musical accompaniment. I'm still annoying my kids with "Green Tambourine". However, for this project, I'm going to suggest you ditch Bruce and get a little bit more in the mood of the project. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c3qo0JXk_RE&feature=related (Apols for not having the skills to imbed vid). Now, I'm really feeling the mod! :davie:

 

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Old-Lumens wrote:
The long version of the Ohio Players...

Holy crap !

Those guys look like they got into a fight with a Bedazzler - and lost.

The four cats doing the "Rerun" dance towards the end were hilarious.

Funk FTW.

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Update on the flame light in the OP.

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This is what song I thought of when I saw the title

Nice flames OL

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looks awesome. someday I might to try it in reverse, on a baked light Smile

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Hill wrote:
Nice work Justin!! That is a very creative idea, especially since the only type of work like that has been done using laser etching. You have demonstrated a simple, low cost solution for others wanting such detail.

I was hoping it would go well, as I thought it would give many people an option for being creative with logos, names or graphics, on smooth body lights. I do not believe this could be done over knurling or anything like that, but any smooth section could be done. It will just take some practice. The tape I bought was 2" tape, but it comes in all widths and a small roll is not too expensive, especially if you can get free shipping. Overseas might be harder to get.

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dthrckt wrote:
looks awesome. someday I might to try it in reverse, on a baked light :)
I debated about that, but I ended going with the flames aiming towards the tail, so when it sits on a shelf, the flames go up.

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