If you could build your own TK-45

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jb1
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If you could build your own TK-45

As a spinoff on Pook's thread, if a template were available and you could build your own TK-45, which 3 lights would you choose and what would the O.T.F. lumens be?

(3) UniqueFire G10 CREE XP E R5 1-Mode 350-Lumen would be interesting. I'd probably prefer (3) Sky Ray S-R5 tubes with Manafont XM-L drop-ins.

Edited by: jb1 on 03/09/2011 - 22:39
srfreddy
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3 Tk-45's- 2280 lumens OTF! Lol Jk,

3 5mega 26650 bodies, with his heatsink heads, with IMR 26650's, with the FETie switches, and 3 Neutral white 5.6 amp Quad XPG Keberos silver heatsink. Output: 4200 lumens. Cost: Um....... Over $1800........

Or, 

3 Mac's customs 3300LM, ITS OVER NINE THOOUUSANNND lumens!!!!!!! Cost: $1300. 

 

PS: Post 100!

srfreddy
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Actually, probably 3 Coolfall Tri-V's. OTF: No idea. Cost: Its over $6000. Awesomeness: Very. 

jb1
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I guess I should have included "ghetto/affordable" TK-45.  LOL

srfreddy, no big baller lights.  LOL

srfreddy
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Lol Damn.... I guess I'd have to go with Solarforce L2X with Nailbender 85 CRI Linger specials, behind UCL with LDF, for that fake triple effect. Cost: $240, not that bad... Money mouth

You can't stop me from wanting....

Tas62
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Eastward YJ-801 Bat

okwchin
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srfreddy wrote:

 

OVER 9000!!!!

 

Freaking made my day with this pic.. wholy cow did not ever imagine how this could have made it into a flashlight forum!! This is just too awesome!

"like everyone else - I’m looking for my next “last” flashlight" -  ohnonothimagain

srfreddy
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okwchin wrote:

srfreddy wrote:

 

OVER 9000!!!!

 

Freaking made my day with this pic.. wholy cow did not ever imagine how this could have made it into a flashlight forum!! This is just too awesome!

And where would you know Vegeta from, good sir? Cool

okwchin
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Maybe its an age group thing....

"like everyone else - I’m looking for my next “last” flashlight" -  ohnonothimagain

srfreddy
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What age watches cheezy old japanese cartoons? Or watches youtube?

Tas62
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Be-Seen Triker wrote:

Now that's a nice piece of hardware, Taz!  Does one dare carry it in their pocket?

It's the battery holder from this bike-light set http://www.dealextreme.com/p/eastward-yj-e01-ssc-p7-3-mode-800-lumen-led...

A fair few requests for it to be sold separately......It does look a bit like a "light the fuse and seek cover immediately" sort of thingLaughing

Don
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jb1 wrote:

As a spinoff on Pook's thread, if a template were available and you could build your own TK-45, which 3 lights would you choose and what would the O.T.F. lumens be?

(3) UniqueFire G10 CREE XP E R5 1-Mode 350-Lumen would be interesting. I'd probably prefer (3) Sky Ray S-R5 tubes with Manafont XM-L drop-ins.

 

Because of the heads, the S-R5 wouldn't be the best choice, you'd be better off with L2s as the head doesn't go way down behind the threads. And they have a space for a grip or lanyard ring at the tail anyway. Screwed together like that, it'd make the whole thing a lot more rigid. Or if you are cheap like me, three old-style WF-504Bs which are L2 clones for less money.

 

Three of the Manafont no flashing modes XM-L dropins should be good for up to 2500 lumens at switch on. And the total cost way below any other 2500 lumen light. Going cheap on it, the bodies plus 3 XM-L dropins would come to $98, the adapter plate ought to be less than $10. My 1500 lumen SST-90 light cost double that.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

Oldienea
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I'm to far away from europe here. My brother in law owns a workshop there. They have a CNC nibbler. It would barely take more than 10 minutes to cut a bunch of these out of a piece thin. I think 1,5mm stainless would do.

jb1
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Don,

Would the WF-504Bs handle the drop-in as far as heat sinking goes? For that matter, does any host that size dissipate the heat long enough for the light to be useful? If not, would about a C1 - C8, G10, L2, etc. size light be any better? I don't have any of the sizes for a reference point, I'm just going off of web pics until I build up my arsenal so to speak. Is there a particular brand/host that's know for handling the heat better than others?

The little gears in my head are turning, but I want a host that fits physically and can handle the heat.

Don
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In terms of getting the heat to where it can be got rid of, all P60 lights are sadly deficient. Since the format was designed round incandescent bulbs where keeping the heat in has real advantages, this should be no surprise. All P60 lights need their dropins wrapping in metal to fill the gaps in the head. This gives the heat a better route to escape.

That said, the major difference remaining is mass. If I could remember where I've put my small balance I'd weigh the bodies and check.

No idea where I've put it so the kitchen scales will have to do. Insert the usual caveat about reliability of all cheap balances - the lab ones I used to use cost about as much as a car by the time they'd been installed on their monstrous granite plinths.

 

All these have dropins heavily wrapped in aluminum foil in them, so I'd ignore differences of less than 5g.

Uniquefire L2 - 115g

WF-504B - 114g

Solarforce L2m - 114g

New style WF-504B (Much less Solarforce/Surefire compatible) - 110g

 

From the point of view of thermal mass there's nothing in it between any of them.

 

The S-R5 weighs in at 122g and I suspect the extra 7g is in the head overlap with the body.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

Budgeteer
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Making that triple P60 host "holder" from aluminium can be alot easier. Since alu is more easy to work with it might be possible to redesign a bit the shape that could also act as heatsink and switch if someone goes the extra mile and adapt the three hosts with a single switch system...

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

Don
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Three of these with the leads cut short and wired to a 12A Big Red Switch. This could be mounted on the long leg of the back plate. One of these would do nicely. Total cost now around $112.

 

But I want "Do not press the Big Red Switch" engraved on it.

Smile

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

jb1
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Great ideas Don and Budgeteer. Time to go back into the cave and scratch my head....I'll probably be back with questions.

Budgeteer
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Summing it up!

Three XM-L less than 17usd each

Three p60 bodies can be had for 8usd each (not considering the subpar 501B) Fake L2 solarfarces comes to mind or even the skyrays.

three 2,8usd pressure switches

Total expenses: 80usd or near that

Around max 10 usd for aluminum, rubber and big red switch with "Allahu Akbar" on it. Smile

Perhaps getting this can ruin the building fun but may look "professional" for inexperienced modders willing to make "the thing".

Button suggestions:

http://www.360infiniteusa.com/toggle-red-switch-p-75.html

http://www.360infiniteusa.com/products_extra.php?extraid=101

http://depositphotos.com/1105926/stock-photo-Red-help-button.html

http://worldofweirdthings.com/2011/02/14/cybersecurity-done-horribly-wro...

http://en.fotolia.com/id/13079451

 

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

motodeficient
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I was just going to mention how the pressure switches could come in handy, wired together to turn on all lights at once.

Budgeteer
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motodeficient wrote:

I was just going to mention how the pressure switches could come in handy, wired together to turn on all lights at once.

I did that ealier in the thread (naah was another one but similar thematics) but soon relaized it has a major drawback. By having them all soldered to a switch it would be a pain in the **** to change batteres by unscrewing tailcaps with those pressure switches mounted... with time the wires can break by excessive twisting...

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

Don
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Budgeteer wrote:

motodeficient wrote:

I was just going to mention how the pressure switches could come in handy, wired together to turn on all lights at once.

I did that ealier in the thread (naah was another one but similar thematics) but soon relaized it has a major drawback. By having them all soldered to a switch it would be a pain in the **** to change batteres by unscrewing tailcaps with those pressure switches mounted... with time the wires can break by excessive twisting...

 

From the look of them, they replace the existing switch assembly but keep the original tailcap and ought to be free to rotate inside the tailcap so with luck they won't twist the power cable. Not having seen one of these things other than in pictures I can't be definite about this.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

Boaz
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I like the last one ...it has that deal or no deal look to it .

       καὶ τὸ φῶς ἐν τῇ σκοτίᾳ φαίνει καὶ ἡ σκοτία αὐτὸ οὐ κατέλαβεν

                            

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