Alright, well I guess I’ll make this my intro to the forum too.
My name is Adam, Im from the high desert in Southern California. I’m leaving in a month for Navy basic training. I’ve always liked having a light wherever I am. My wife thinks it’s so weird but as long as she still have more handbags than I have flashlights, I’m pretty sure I have the upper hand in the argument haha. So anyways, my weird addiction of course brought me to the forums, I’ve lurked every now and then to see what light would fit me best. I wanted one to keep in my backpack that I bring everywhere with me.
This brought me to get my first 18650 light a while back(C8 of some sort from KD), and recently I was sent some 5 mode UltraFire zoomable lights instead of the 3 modes that I ordered from an ebay seller(christmas gifts for my dad and father in law). I ended up getting a refund without having to send them back so I spent that money on a new 2 cell SkyRay 818. Awesome light for the money.
My reason for posting in this section is to see if anyone can identify what C8 I have exactly? I can’t find my receipt from KD, nor get into the account on their website to see what I ordered, haven’t had that email for quite some time now. I’m not even sure if anyone can identify it with just visuals, but it’s worth the try.
Here are a few pictures, the driver(I think thats what thats called?) reads A K - 4 7 A
And one of the small collection.
MiniMag with Terralux led convertion.(in my work bag)
C8(in my backpack)
818(in the car, along with my 3D Mag beating stick.)
I saw a few threads on BLF where people were complaining about them being beat up when they got them. Mine on the other hand was perfect when i got it. No nicks, chips, fingerprints, metal shavings, nothing. Haven’t had any problems. All of the threads were actually lubed too.
For $38 shipped to me in three days, I’m not complaining at all.
I can’t quite tell what the emitter is, I can tell you its a decent quality c8 probably driven at 1.4a, the driver is one many use, the light has a brass pill (easy to solder too) ok it has an orange peel reflector, I bet the beam is lovely and smooth.
If you want to mod it, its a damm fine base, if its not working its pretty easy to repair it given the internals.
Whichever, you have got a good light there. Welcome by the way, good to have you here.
Awesome. I have thought about modding it in the future. Ill have to research what exactly I could do to it.
It does work though, I just wanted a little information on it for future reference if I decided to mod it. I have actually never had any problems with it, been dropped many of times. I use it mainly for working on cars, so even with the hours at a time and drops it gets on a daily basis, it hasn’t let me down yet. Probably the best $15 investment I’ve made yet.
Thanks for replying here, I’ll be reading up more on other threads. Hopefully soon I’ll beable to offer some information myself.
No worries, glad its doing you good, I use a c8 myself, if you want more runtime in a similar sized light, a keygos m10 is well worth a look. Think same dimensions but a thicker body tube which feels better in the hand, plus with an xm-l its plenty floody, something I feel is usefull under a vehicle.
This is a higher current version of the same board, ignore that, check the mode list, count the stars from the right, those stars, you solder to the outer ring to select the mode group. Just hang fire though till someone confirms/corrects this with the right info.
So mine right now is a 5 mode, Low, med, high, strobe, sos. But the first star isn’t soldered to the outter ring? none of them are. I might not be understanding what you were saying completely.
This review may or may not help, it does describe the process, you can reverse whatever you do with either a solder sucker or braid.
Basically, I’d want at least a 25w iron, for preference, I use a 40w iron, I want to get the heat in quick, make the joint and get out quick, less chance of heat build up.
I would suggest follow the guide, be sure you can remove the solder joint and try it. I do think someone said you can use a lead pencil to test, ie draw a line from star to ground ring. If it does what you want, solder if not, wipe away and try again. When you find the right group, solder the connection to make it good.
Ok that makes sense now.
Would you happen to have a light that you did this to? Id just like to see a picture of the finished product of a board like this where someone changed it to a different star.
I don’t, yet, I have recieved a rook of these drivers an one is going in a c8 next week hopefully, I’ll post back in here. As I say, I’m not 100% as your driver has the stars but nothing on the battery side of the board, my boards have extra chips but should work the same. I’ll let you know hopefully tomorrow unless my c8 is a crappy version, then I’ll have to swap the board and emitter into my other pill, which does fit.
I’ll probably do both, but I’ll fire back to here to help out, I do think all the nanjg boards with stars have a similar setting method, so you should be right.
Update on the different modes for this board.
I soldered the second star from the right, or third from the left, to the outside ring. And BAM, three modes. Low, Med, High.
Im happy with it now. One thing seems to have changed though, it didn’t used to be “Next” mode memory, and now it is. Doesn’t bother me too much but I’ll have to get used to it. Kind of weird that changing the mode selection changed its memory too. Or maybe I’m just crazy and it always was next mode memory. I dunno.
I found the same thing, third from left = 3 mode, I did find it needs to be in for a few seconds for the memory to stick. I actually built the board up from 6*7135 to 8*7135, which was one of the reasons to get these boards - see if I can add chips without destroying them. I also built up a 5*7135 ak47 driver to suit a light that needed to have a one sided board, that works too. Very productive night for me :bigsmile:
