Shadow JM26 Driver (Place for more AMC7135)

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Slacker
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Shadow JM26 Driver (Place for more AMC7135)

Hello!

So, I’ve just bought the Shadow JM26 and when I opened it up, I saw that the driver holds 8xAMC7135 (2.8 A), BUT there’s place for 3 4 more! Should I add another one, will it work? (Or maybe more than 1) :bigsmile:

Photo:

Thanks!

Regards,

Edited by: Slacker on 01/04/2013 - 14:56
JonnyC
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Do it!

Slacker
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Fine, I will! How many? :bigsmile:

First I have to buy some, I have none at home and they don’t sell those in Sweden so I will have to order. It might take a while before they arrive Sad

MattSPL
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How did you get the driver out?
Would stacking chips on the existing chips work?

scaru
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Hmmm... What is the diameter of that driver? But, yes add some more chips!

texas shooter
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Looks like the top 2 spots are the only ones with enough clearance. Whats the other side look like?

Slacker
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MattSPL:
I used a tweezer for the whole process. Unscrew and then lift the driver up, it’s easy as pie:

Dunno about stacking, but it is really necessary? You could replace them all with 380 mA version and you’ll get 4180 mA Shocked

+…: +
Yeah, I will order a bunch.

+scaru: +
Driver diameter is about 28 mm (~1.1 inch)

JonnyC
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FastTech seems like a good place to get them, as they sell them in quantities of 10 for cheap.  I have a few dozen coming my way.

MattSPL
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Thanks for the reply and pics Smile
I have an SL3 i might open up Smile

Chicago X
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Does the "38M" designation not indicate the 380 mA version of these chips?

http://wardogsmakingithome.org/index.html

War Dogs, Making it Home - Rescue Dogs for Returning Vets

Slacker
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texas shooter:
Clearance is not a problem Smile

JonnyC
OK, thanks I will look it up! But as I need some 26650 too, I might buy from intl-outdoor. They use Singpost on packages with tracking number, which takes just a few days to arrive in Sweden.
I ordered the JM26 from there, and here’s how fast I got it:
2012-12-26 15:06 —> Left Singapore
2012-12-30 13:57 —> Arrived in Sweden

I dunno what FastTech uses, it’s great if they use Singpost or HKP though.

MattSPL
No problem! Smile

Chicago X
I don’t know actually, I’ve also been thinking about that. Can someone else confirm this? Would be good to know, so that I know what to buy. I’m not at home so I haven’t got my DMM

MattSPL
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I will have a look inside my SL3 and post pics later. The SL3 is 4.5A, so it will be interesting to see how they differ, and might help in knowing what to do to get more power Smile

JonnyC
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Slacker wrote:
which takes just a few days to arrive in Sweden.

So jealous.

And yeah, 7135's are so cheap that it doesn't really matter where you buy them.

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Chicago X wrote:

Does the "38M" designation not indicate the 380 mA version of these chips?

Ah, I never noticed that.  Looking at the pics on intl-outdoor, that does seem to be correct.

Slacker
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Update: The guy living here had a multimeter! (Dunno about quality though, lol) On full it draws 3030 mA, so those are 380 mA chips indeed. I’ll probably just add one more then :bigsmile: Feels like I’m pushing the XM-L too hard at 4.2A hehe!

Slacker
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wrote:
Slacker wrote:
*Update: The guy living here had a multimeter! (Dunno about quality though, lol) On full it draws 3030 mA, so those are 380 mA chips indeed. I’ll probably just add one more then :bigsmile: *
GREAT NEWS. And when it gets really hot, please cook me a pizza or bake me some crisps.

I wouldn’t worry about it getting too hot Wink I mostly use it outside and it’s currently -22°C here (-7.6°F). -30°C to -40°C isn’t unusual here (-22°F to -40°F)

gords1001
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Anyone else interested in the stars, they look like nanjg mode selection stars….

Toaster79
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gords1001 wrote:
Anyone else interested in the stars, they look like nanjg mode selection stars….

Which they are not. They are jsut bling factor. The center golden part of the circle, the stars and the masked part of the circle are all one same surface for the positive contact which leads through the vias on the other side of the board where the red wire is soldered.

MattSPL
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MattSPL wrote:
I will have a look inside my SL3 and post pics later. The SL3 is 4.5A, so it will be interesting to see how they differ, and might help in knowing what to do to get more power Smile

I couldn’t get the driver out. I need to get a good tweezers or something as the disc is too tight.

Tom E
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 So you have 3.04A total in the design. I would recommend adding 2 350's or 2 380's, anymore won't do you much good - just verified that on a modified Crelant 7G9 - I dropped 4.56A (measured 4.50A) down to 3.80A, dropped 2 380 7135's, and the ceiling bounce test saw no difference at all. In theory, the XML's reach their peak at 3.5A, but I go for 3.7-3.85A, assuming there is some loss going to the LED.

 Buzz out those spots to see if they are trully parallel with the rest of the mounted 7135's, if so, use them, measuring after will confirm they are soldered ok.

MRsDNF
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Slacker. There is no question at all you should be adding the full compliment of 3 chips. If your not happy you can always remove 1 or 2 chips. We need to have before and after night shots as well. Thanks.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Tom E
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MRsDNF wrote:

Slacker. There is no question at all you should be adding the full compliment of 3 chips. If your not happy you can always remove 1 or 2 chips. We need to have before and after night shots as well. Thanks.

 Do you think 3.8A to 4.1A will make a difference in brightness? I'm wondering how Match's results (http://budgetlightforum.com/node/2603

) work in the real world myself. He shows a peak starting at 4.1A, but very little gain above 3.8A or so. Haven't come across any corraborating evidence in real flashlight tests.

MRsDNF
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Seriously I would try one at a time and check for heat build up. I have no idea what the heat sinking is like on this flashlight. The hotter the LED the less efficient. Before and after shots with the same camera settings will give a good idea whether the light is working better or not. 3 amps is the sweet spot for output and battery life. Good luck on your mission. 

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Hikelite
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Those 38M 7315 are of course 380mA chips. The 350mA ones are 35"x", so the first two digits are that tell you the rating.

There are empty pads, look at that board, no need for staking.

Looks like there is room for a 4th chip, the ground wire is soldered to the pad where one of the pins should be. I don't know about the clearance.

Those stars don't look like any connections to anything, just unmasked copper (gold plated), esthetics only.

 

 

MattSPL
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Here’s the driver of my Shadow SL3

Hikelite
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MattSPL wrote:
Here's the driver of my Shadow SL3 !http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8359/8345574235_d9b3a28f82_z.jpg![/quote]

That's 4560mA. You have exactly 50% more current, but I  doubt you have 50% more brightness compared to 3040mA.

I initially thought you soldered those extra 4 chips yourself, but did you?

MattSPL
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Hikelite wrote:

MattSPL wrote:
Here’s the driver of my Shadow SL3 !http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8359/8345574235_d9b3a28f82_z.jpg!

That’s 4560mA. You have exactly 50% more current, but I  doubt you have 50% more brightness compared to 3040mA.

I initially thought you soldered those extra 4 chips yourself, but did you?

No, this is how the SL3 comes. It is 4.5A as standard.
Do you think it’s possible to stack chips to increase the current?

scaru
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MattSPL wrote:
Hikelite wrote:

MattSPL wrote:
Here's the driver of my Shadow SL3 !http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8359/8345574235_d9b3a28f82_z.jpg!

That's 4560mA. You have exactly 50% more current, but I  doubt you have 50% more brightness compared to 3040mA.

I initially thought you soldered those extra 4 chips yourself, but did you?

No, this is how the SL3 comes. It is 4.5A as standard. Do you think it's possible to stack chips to increase the current?[/quote]

Yes, it definitely is. So all you would have to do is stack a chip on top of every current chip and you will get a 9 amp one. Smile

Hikelite
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MattSPL wrote:
Hikelite wrote:

MattSPL wrote:
Here's the driver of my Shadow SL3 !http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8359/8345574235_d9b3a28f82_z.jpg!

That's 4560mA. You have exactly 50% more current, but I  doubt you have 50% more brightness compared to 3040mA.

I initially thought you soldered those extra 4 chips yourself, but did you?

No, this is how the SL3 comes. It is 4.5A as standard. Do you think it's possible to stack chips to increase the current?[/quote]

Yes it's possible to stack some more chips. 

Sorry I looked only at the driver and I didn't realize you have written "Shadow SL3", I thought it was the JM26 driver.

Anyway, as I was suspecting there are 4 empty places on the JM26's driver, not 3.

 

dthrckt
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oh man

i might have to buy an sl3

that’s the best news i’ve heard in awhile

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MattSPL
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Great news, thanks Smile
So can I stack any number of chips in any position? Like just one chip anywhere, or an extra chip on each chip?

Cheers
Matt

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