Has anyone tried this for long/work/play and what has been the results/issues?
Got one coming will let you know
You have to think of the short runtime on high and if you don’t need so much light it’s easier to carry a smaller one with you.
I don’t have this light but the 9xT6.
Where did you get yours? And if you don’t mind me asking how much?
Hey Glenn7,
Mine seems like the Lens screw cap needs a few more threads for proper tension. Does yours feel that way too? And are you using the 18650’s or 26650’s? I have noticed with the 18650’s used, the spacers slide around inside making noise. Have not been able to use 26650’s cause charger not here yet.
Only just got mine today and its still not dark yet 
Tried the bezel and I can see what you mean but mine does clamp down quite well - sorry to hear yours doesn’t.
All I know is its very bright! And I do notice PWM on lower settings. I’ll comment more when I give it a good go out in the dark.
Glenn7
I see what you mean on the lower light settings with pwm frequency. My bezel goes on fine it just seem like it needs a few more turn. It tightens in 2 turns! Are you using 26650’s?
My bezel screws on in two ish turns as well, it would be better to have at least two more turns. And yes I forgot to say I’m using protected Soshine 26650’s no rattle and they can take 8amps, got them from lightmalls to.
How much tailcap current have these lamps?
Sorry don’t have a multimeter - if I get a chance I might do some beam comparisons to a few of my lights.
I bet your out playing with this light RIGHT NOW as I write this !!!
I would be too if my foot wasn’t broke and just had two screws put in!!! :cry:
Btw see if you can post some beams shots for the guys. I know some of them are wondering what this thing does.
This measurement seem to be crap…way too low.
Use thick wire without clips, these add too much resistance. Maybe your batteries are not optimal…
It should be much dimmer when you are measuring, or not?
You should get 5 Amps and up with fully charged Batteries.
I think it’s rather a Ultrafire BRC issue. >)
Ha ha Daniel yes my foot is ok and I’m out enjoying mine 
but haven’t had a real chance to stretch its legs (sorry for the pun coz I’ve been working over the weekend. Take care of that foot buddy. Maybe you can use the torch as its big enough to use as a walking stick.
OK I FRIED/Melted together the driver wires!!! LOL
And yes it gets hot.
I ran this light for approx 3 minutes on high and the light went out.
If you use your light on high for more than a couple minutes you may fry your driver wires in the lights “head” area. I took mine apart and put in high temp wires of a larger gauge. There is one problem after soldering in such a tight area after reinstall of the reflector. You must cover your soldering + and - connections or they WILL short on the aluminum reflector. Fortunatly I found this out before frying the driver/end cap switch.
Oh yes, I forgot to add you need to cover the soldered areas with some shrink tubing (insulation product) cut and placed over connections to protect them from grounding out on the reflector.
This was a fun project not wanting to do late last night!!! Least I know how to tear one of these down now. And it was sooo late I did not take pictures. But for those who really need help just pm me I will tear it down again and take some pictures.
BTW I took temp. test for this short duration test (3 min) and was at 124 degrees fahrenheit.
What was weird is during disassembly/reassembly I was testing light modes and “low” setting was producing an oscillation effect on a ziploc plastic bag near the emmiters splash.
Daniel, do you have a digital volt/amp meter? Where you able to get a tail cap reading yet?
As for the wires melting, do you think somehow they shorted against one another inside the head at an uninsulated point or was it from just to much current going through them. It doesn’t sound like this 12X T6 is being under-driven to me.
Yes they melted together. Excessive current was the culprit. Diameter/gauge was the issue and remideid by install of high temp wires and larger gauge. Only problem is “Clearance Clarence”. And driver pc board/reflector can only handle so much connection gauge in the tight areas involved. As for a multimeter I made the mistake of misposting earlier with a A/C inductive clamp that gave wrong readings for D/C. SO the answer is yes to multimeter no for ammeter.
I bet I could cook an egg on this thing!!!
The skyray 9xt6 got upto just about 200F as per my review.
So i believe it.