I've been wanting to use one of those quad pcbs from led-tech for a long time now.. but those come equipped with CW XPGs, so I decided to put some other LEDs on it, along with some other modifications.
The heatsink is machined out of copper and is roughly 22.4*16mm. My grandpa made it on his lathe and fitted it into my L2P so that the head screws down seamless and the dropin is held rattle-free. Besides grinding, polishing and lapping star and heatsink, I performed another "minor" modification. Thats what it looks like:
Those round things in the center soldering pads might catch your attention. I drilled through the PCB, 1cm deep in the heatsink and soldered in copper rods to improve heatsinking. That wasnt easy because copper is a PITA to work with. I bought some high quality drills and organised some high-quality equipment because a standard drill in a drill press doesnt have a true enough turn for 1.3mm drills..
Attaching the LEDs worked rather well on the glass cooktop, but soldering the wires was kinda hard with my 50W Hakko clone. Thats why its not really pretty:
Not that extraordinary so far.. but the driver is a very special one. DrJones made it for me and he said it wasnt fun at all. :D
Each LED is driven seperately and therefore can receive its own signal from the MCU. Counting the AMCs, you can see that each LED will see 1.4A, so in total thats 5.6! :crown:
In this picture you can roughly see the different LED colors. WW on top, CW on the bottom, left and right are two Nichias. I hope you like the background. :hat:
The very special about this whole thing is, besides the direct-to-copper, of course the driver from DrJones.
It features the following modes:
1 LED - 2 LED - 3 LED - 4 LED - fading - running light - insane strobe - beacon
The 4 first modes are self-explanatory, fading, running light and insane strobe will be shown in some videos at the end. Beacon blinks about every 12 seconds.
Here are some pictures of the first 4 modes:
The first 3 modes are very well spaced and grant a long runtime with sufficient light for almost any situation. With a nearly full CGR18650CH (4.05V) I measured:
1 LED - 0A (my DMM currently only works in the 10A setting, so it should be less than 10mA)
2 LED - 0.1A
3 LED - 0.75A
4 LED - 4.9A :evil:
DrJones added another really cool feature so the leds dont get old unevenly: whenever you switch the light on again, the next led in line lights up, so depending on the situation, I can pick between CW, WW and High-CRI in low mode. Thats awesome, isnt it? J)
Camera setting was ISO 400, F4.5, exposure will be above each picture because I had to adjust it for some shots:
CW-Low 2s (brighter than reality):
WW-Low 2s (brighter than reality):
High-CRI-Low 2s (brighter than reality):
2 LED 1/2s (what I saw):
3 LED 1/2s (what I saw):
4 LED 1/2s (brighter than reality):
4 LED 1/20s (what I saw):
4 LED vs. 3.5A XML T6 3C P60 1/20s (what I saw):
4 LED vs. 3.5A XML T6 3C P60 1/80s (spill):
4 LED vs. 3.5A XML T6 3C P60 1/800s (hotspot):
Fading (just beautiful):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3whBGs9KE8o
Running light (nice blinking):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=raTznezghz8
Running light (ceiling):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZKd6KyZN61w
Insane strobe ( S) ):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pE8qDWGLefM
What can I say.. its awesome! In total, way more light than my regular P60 Dropin, much nicer color and the modes are so much fun to play with.
Thank you very much DrJones! :shy:
