Think I fried a driver, need mod help.

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southland
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Think I fried a driver, need mod help.

Tried to upload pictures unsuccessfully. Just got this light and played around with it for maybe a minute. Noticed the led centering device was not really doing anything because of the large opening in the reflector(led end). Took out centering device to see how much brighter it would be and I think I shorted out the driver. The light will come on but has very low output, like moonlight mode. Driver seems to measure about 22mm. Tried screwing it out with needle nose pliers and then prying it out with a small screwdriver, can’t get it out. The pill screws into the reflector, the reflector screws into the host so it should do good at heat management. Anyway, how do I get the driver out and what is a good driver to use. This will be my first attempt at modding.

2× 18650 batteries, x-ml led

Is this a good solder station, Hobby King 936 ?

Pictures a few posts down and a link to the light.

Edited by: southland on 01/25/2013 - 16:59
devman
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Asks me to sign into flicker and then says the photos are private.

Try a different site, like http://imgur.com/ ?

southland
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Thanks devman, I fixed that.

scaru
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I can say that is a good soldering station, I can't see the pictures so I can't recommend on a way to fix it though.:(

southland
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southland
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Sorry about the image size, I don’t know what I’m doing. Removed the nonworking links. Thanks devman and scaru.

BIGWOOD
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I assumed you put the plastic led centering stator back and tried it again? Or Try a piece of paper with the center cut out to cover the solder points of the lead wires. The reflector may still be shorting out.

southland
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I tried putting the centering the device back in, still not working. I believe the reflector touched both wires and shorted out when screwed down, will work at a moonlight mode.

garrybunk
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For clarification, you tried turning the light on with the reflector removed and you still get the moonlight output, right?

-Garry

My Bike Lights Thread, Optics (TIR) Comparison Beamshots, Diffusion Techniques


NOTE: Moving my photos from PhotoBucket to Flickr. PM me or post in the thread if you can’t see my images and need me to fix or send a gallery link. PhotoBucket images should remain visible until November 2018.
dthrckt
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like any fun project, you need three hands

one to pull on the spring, a second to pry the driver out from the hole on one side, and the third to pry at the hole on the other side Smile

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southland
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garrybunk wrote:

For clarification, you tried turning the light on with the reflector removed and you still get the moonlight output, right?

-Garry

With the light completely assembled with and without the centering device, moonlight only. There is no way to run it without the reflector, pill screws into reflector, reflector screws into host. Have to use the reflector to hold the pill in place.

southland
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dthrckt wrote:
like any fun project, you need three hands

one to pull on the spring, a second to pry the driver out from the hole on one side, and the third to pry at the hole on the other side Smile

So do you think it’s a press fit, do you think it’s glued in place?

garrybunk
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southland wrote:
garrybunk wrote:

For clarification, you tried turning the light on with the reflector removed and you still get the moonlight output, right?

-Garry

With the light completely assembled with and without the centering device, moonlight only. There is no way to run it without the reflector, pill screws into reflector, reflector screws into host. Have to use the reflector to hold the pill in place.

Ah ok, oops - didn't think about that.

-Garry

My Bike Lights Thread, Optics (TIR) Comparison Beamshots, Diffusion Techniques


NOTE: Moving my photos from PhotoBucket to Flickr. PM me or post in the thread if you can’t see my images and need me to fix or send a gallery link. PhotoBucket images should remain visible until November 2018.
BIGWOOD
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Looks like a press fit. Try prying it open with a mini flat head screwdriver.

In this case if it’s an odd sized driver (>17mm diameter), I would either desolder (or use a heatgun) all the parts off the driver and use it as a contact plate and buy a 17mm driver. Otherwise you can buy a 20-21-22mm contact plate. They’re cheap. Int Outdoor or Fancyflashlights (CNQG) carries them.

To get you started. To check if you actually fried your LED or driver, you can connect the battery using some lead wires directly onto the LED contact points to see if your LED is in fact fried. If it works, then it’s your driver. Just don’t blind yourself in the process. I don’t know how many time I’ve done that. LOL

southland
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Tied powering the led with leads directly to a battery. The led is still in moonlight mode, must be the led or led and driver, while I’m at it I will still upgrade the driver also since this light looks like it is heat sinked good.

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southland wrote:
Is this a good solder station, Hobby King 936 ?

That is the cheapest soldering station I’ve seen. Tho shipping doubles the cost. To really know if its could be passable quality (safety wise) need to find someone who has done (or willing to do) a teardown, assess its design &/or take pictures so others can assess it.

A lot of cheap noname chinese AC electronics are made with horrible disregard for safety, laws & fire codes.

gords1001
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Can you measure the driver? Is the light 1 or 2 18650?It looks like 2 * 18650, if that’s the case and the driver is 19-20mm, this is a real nice driver.

http://www.lck-led.com/constant-current-driver-board-modes-p-501.html?cP...

I’ve just fitted it to a host, and it’ll definitely be on the cards for any multi-cell xm-l builds I do.

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Fasttech has some larger diameter drivers available; if you find the right diameter, you may be able to find a decent driver there.

24mm driver, 2.4A for 2x Li-Ion cells, listed as no mode memory though: http://www.fasttech.com/products/1612/10001748/1127400-6v84v-5-mode-24a-led-flashlight-driver-tr-001

21mm driver - 2.8A for 2x Li-Ion cells, specs say no memory but I haven't been able to confirm that yet on mine: https://www.fasttech.com/products/1143100

 


Keepin’ the “B” in BLF

Don wrote:
It sounds like the XM LEDs won’t really be suitable for flashlight use. Pity…

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southland wrote:
dthrckt wrote:
like any fun project, you need three hands

one to pull on the spring, a second to pry the driver out from the hole on one side, and the third to pry at the hole on the other side Smile

So do you think it’s a press fit, do you think it’s glued in place?

I haven’t seen a glued one (but they’re probably out there).

Some are soldered in place, but it doesn’t look like yours is.

I HAVE had some that are pressed in place so well that I broke the board getting them out. I didn’t care since I wanted to get rid of strobe anyway…

if you find yourself using a lot of force, you might want to unsolder the leads from the emitter. some times tugging on them will pull the traces off the star.

I have an AOYUE 936 soldering station. great for soldering leads and adding chips to drivers. I paid $35 shipped from US ebay seller.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p3872.m570.l1313&_nkw=AOYUE+936&_...

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PilotPTK recommended that Hobby King soldering station and that was enough fo me to order! Haven't used mine yet. They carry it in the US Warehouse so that's a plus!

Sometimes drivers are soldered in the inside (solder joint inside the pill where you can't see it) like on the Trustfire F20.  

-Garry

My Bike Lights Thread, Optics (TIR) Comparison Beamshots, Diffusion Techniques


NOTE: Moving my photos from PhotoBucket to Flickr. PM me or post in the thread if you can’t see my images and need me to fix or send a gallery link. PhotoBucket images should remain visible until November 2018.
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I just got the solder station from hobbyking 2 days ago. Works good for what time I have used it. Done a few soldering test and is a lot better than my irons. Heats up quicker than my 30 watt soldering irons. Maybe 1 minute or so. Has a switch on the side that you can turn the iron off when done instead of having to unplug it. I have not took it apart to check the quality of the insides. From what I gather its a copy of the well liked hakko 936. The tip that comes with station is a bit small for normal soldering probably works good for smd work. You can find extra tips on flea bay for a couple bucks look up (936 tips) the hakko uses the same size tips as this one.
As for the quality there is a couple of reviews over at hobbyking that feel the soldering station is ever bit as good as the hakko. Some where professionals that use the station on a daily basis.
If you can get the driver out post up a pic of the component side.

dthrckt
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looks just like mine except the name – and the stand actually looks better.

oh, and half the price :_(

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southland
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The cheapest Aoyue 936 is now over $60.50 shipped on ebay. Think I will go with the Hobby King, might only use it a couple of times. The board has a diameter of 22mm and the host runs 2× 18650 batteries. Since the led seems to be fried also, which led should I get, preferably one with leads if they come with and without. Also what else is needed, I know soldering wire and flux or should I use the combo wire with a flux core. Should I buy some lead wire, what kind? What about thermal glue, what brand? Thanks everyone for all the help.

dthrckt
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i think you can find the 936 for $35 or so but i’d go w/ the hobby king, too

hobby king has silicone wire, great for leads

i use flux core solder and a jar of flux

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southland
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@dthrckt, what brand and size solder, what about thermal glue brand or do I need it?

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Radio shack 60/40 rosin core solder or silver-bearing solder, the smaller the diameter the better. Get some flux while you are there and make soldering easier.
For the led cree xml you choose bin and tint. Fasttech should have some to look at. 20mm pcb.
Thermal glue for the led fasttech FUJIK or if you want high quality Artic Silver thermal epoxy. Note: Epoxy does not come off easily the silicone Fujik comes of much easier for future modd’s.
Silicone high strand count wire can be had at epbuddy in the states. Ordering from hobbyking makes the order come from china if your going to order the soldering station from the US warehouse. 22AWG should work fine.
To glue the driver in you will need some kind electrically conductive epoxy. I have never used any so maybe someone else can comment on this.

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moderator007 wrote:
Radio shack 60/40 rosin core solder

60/40 solder is not a good alloy for general purpose work. You want 63/37 rosin core solder.

southland
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Removed the circuit board but tore it up in the process. The driver is 22mm and I can only find a 21mm contact plate(hoy) on fancyflashlights and intl-outdoor. Can I use a 21 and solder around the edges?

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a very similar driver: http://dx.com/p/3v-12v-2500ma-5-mode-led-driver-board-162784

 

 

unique engrish language... Smile

 

moderator007
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texaspyro wrote:
moderator007 wrote:
Radio shack 60/40 rosin core solder

60/40 solder is not a good alloy for general purpose work. You want 63/37 rosin core solder.


I have to disagree. Info on solder here. 60/40 and 63/37 have the same compounds tin and lead. 60/40 is probably the most commonly used for hand soldering. The only difference being 63/37 melts at exactly 361°F making it eutectic. 60/40 melts at a range of 361°F to 374°F. Eutectic alloy is probably well suited for printed circuit boards, it does have its advantages like a lower precise melting point and no plastic phase. Soldering a wire to a driver or led 60/40 rosin core will work fine. This is the stuff I use 60/40 rosin core solder .032 diameter 8.0 oz. spool.
texaspyro
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moderator007 wrote:
I have to disagree.

You can disagree.. but you’re wrong. Wink Unless you gave a very specific requirement, you really want to use 63/37.

Once upon a time I was certified for soldering on equipment destined for manned space flight and other hyper-critical things… I know my solder fu quite well.

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