The RRT01 @ $56.97 is stepless and has that bad arse charcoal color I love so much! One day I’m going to splurge on one.
I’m thinking of going for the SWM V10R – https://www.fasttech.com/product/1308102 because you can drill small holes to add tritium through the fins at the front and make it look mega cool !
My Paracord work on photobucket
That’s a great idea. Have you already sourced your Tritium Vials? I recall seeing a link to them somewhere but can’t remember where. Probably better than pulling my watches apart and prying them off the face.
I’d love to see that! I quite fancy one of these V10R’s too.
Anyone want to add tritium vials to FastTech’s request list? Could they even legally sell those?
I posted earlier, but can I ask why it’s being said that the Niteye( are equivalent to 3-mode? As I posted earlier, I have both a TF20 and TF25, and, to me, they definitely don’t appear to be 3 modes only.
It’s easy enough to get Tritium ‘markers’ with 23mm vials installed for under $15 in the UK at least anyway (I got a few for around $8 each), you could search on ebay under the ‘firefly’ brand.
A few interesting links:
Do you see what I see? - How colour works (Part 1) - Wonders of the Universe - The Secret Life of Chaos - Imaging at a trillion frames per second - Moral behaviour in animals - Why people believe weird things
The Incredible Human Journey - Part 1 - Prehistoric Autopsy - 1; Neanderthals - 2; Homo Erectus - 3; Australopithecus Aferensis (Lucy) - Our Origins Made Easy (Starts on 5)
I got my tritium markers from InovaTech:
I noticed another thread at CPF, ‘“kuku427” from Taiwan. Looks like he may have 1.5X6 mm ($8.50) still, any thoughts?
He is a very popular and good seller over there. I have purchased items from him. Great guy to deal with.
Thanks for taking the time to let me know. As the only tritium I have ever used are in two of my watches and on the sights of my work issue firearm, I don’t have much experience with them. Are those 1.5×6mm the most popular for fitting to lights? For example I measured the fins on the Convoy M2 and it seems like they would fit between them. I assume there must be lots of threads that have emerged over the years here and at CPF with examples of what people have done. I think I read on his thread at CPF that the vials that are smaller than the 15.x6 do not shed much light. I’m not sure what size they are in my watch but they are not all that bright.
Here in the UK we can walk into a fishing takle shop and buy Tritium in all sizes. Or go on UK eBay and search for “isotope”, you might even find a seller who will ship overseas.
Be aware in the states there are some issues with buying/importing tritium as the gov are worried their people will do something naughty with it like David Hahn – http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/David_Hahn
Now let us get back on topic…………
Well that’s interesting, I’m downloading The Nuclear Boy Scout right now, thanks for the tip!
According to a post on laserpointerforums that looks legit as it quotes the relevant regulations with attributable sources, no problems in Canada for those items, given all the gunsights in the USA I assumed that these vials would be sold with the Bud Light there. Fishing shops? Would get expensive if the fish swallowed it, not to mention a bit iffy to eat? For Salmon fishing (actually that would read ‘poaching’) you could attach a fish hook to the lanyard on a Convoy M2 and pull them in that way I suppose.
Which part is the heat sink? I’m looking for a round part without a hole through it?? I wouldn’t want to run any high current LEDs without good heatsinking.
looking at that picture I’m thinking that the star and driver fasten straight into the head without a separate pill, good for heat transfer but its going to be like keyhole surgery……
the f8 is certainly built like that
The heat transfer is noticeable too. I find the F12 gets hotter quicker at 1.75A than the convoy S3 does at 2.8A.
Now let us get back on topic………… :)
you mean there actually is something we’re allowed to play with that the yanks are not? cool, off to my local tackle shop
you mean there actually is something we’re allowed to play with that the yanks are not? cool, off to my local tackle shop 8)
Right. I’m starting a Petition – “Ban this Stuff”, “Down with this Class of Thing”.
no petitions please the nation is in mourning/party mood…
Yes, I’ve been playing Elvis Costello’s Tramp the Dirt Down round the clock.
Yes isotopes and Kinder eggs are all ours!. You know that Kinder eggs are illegal in the US right? So don’t pack any in your case when going on holiday, otherwsie you (and the kids) may end up with a big fine or jail time.
Now please can we get back on topic ………..
The Jetbeam RRT01 I ordered showed up today. Here are some of my initial impressions / observations:
It’s smaller than I expected, which is good. It’s almost as small as a ZL SC52, maybe 2-3mm longer and the back end of the body is wider (same diameter as the bezel of the SC52). Because it’s short, one-handed operation requires holding the light with my middle finger (or middle+ring) and turning the ring with my index finger + thumb. The grip is similar to one-handed operation of my iTP A3 EOS 1xAAA twisty.
The clip is shorter than in the pictures I’ve seen online, which is also good. It doesn’t get even close to blocking the control ring. It also does not seem to rub the front half of the light when unscrewing the torch to put in a new battery; it stops just barely short of that. I’ll see if I can get pictures later.
The reflector is OP/LOP, and I see no rings in the beam aside from the usual mach bands at the outer edge of the spill.
The control ring works very well, though it’s a little bit sticky and could use some lube. It can be slightly difficult to move it by, say, half a millimeter, and instead it’ll want to move by 2mm. I mostly notice this near the high end of its range. Not really an issue though.
I’m pleased to report that the control ring seems to be a visually-linear brightness adjustment, so almost the entire range is useful (the ends seem to reach min/max slightly before the detent, but that’s okay).
It’s definitely not a 3-mode light, as one person suggested. I can get at least 50 visually-different levels out of it, and that’s mostly limited by the ring being a little sticky.
The dimmest levels are lower than the SC52’s dimmest mode, dimmer than a tritium vial, and actually so dim that I can barely tell the LED is on if I hold the light directly up to my eye in a totally dark room. In fact, I can’t even tell where it shuts off, because it fades so smoothly down to zero. You won’t be left complaining that it’s too bright.
I don’t have to turn it up and then back down to get to the dimmest levels. It comes on at the dimmest level my eye can detect when I hold it up to my eyeball in a dark room.
The brightest level (on a half-charged Nitecore 650mAh 16340 battery) appears to be about the same brightness as a ZL SC52 on turbo (Sanyo 840mAh 14500 battery, fully charged). I don’t have any meters or an integrating sphere though.
The body color is almost, but not quite, black. It’s a very dark, smoky grey.
The included materials say Jetbeam half the time and Niteye half the time. The torch itself actually says both on its logo side: “JETBeam ® // www.niteyelight.com”
Although the 16340 battery is loose inside the body, it doesn’t rattle when screwed together.
It tailstands easily, and the lanyard nub doesn’t stick out at all.
Aside from the poor runtimes (max ~4 days, compared to 3 months for the SC52), I’m very happy with this light. It looks much more attractive than the military drab color of my SC52, and will probably go into rotation for EDC use.
So, overall, this batch at FastTech seems to be better than the initial batches which were so highly reviewed at CPF. The only ways I’d like to see it improved are longer runtimes and maybe a bit of lube under the control ring.
Now please can we get back on topic ……….. :bigsmile:
all the kids i know would chew blindly on the kinder egg until they died….
your kids in euro are genetic mutants
Good news – thanks for the update. I have one on the way from the Thrunite group buy, and it’s hopefully the same (Op reflector, shortened clip). Pretty much as I expected, so looking forward to mine. Only pain is that I have 18350 efest IMR’s waiting for it … which are flat-top, so won’t fit.
It took me about 9 months deliberating between the RRT-01 and the V11R before I finally pulled the trigger on this one. In true flashaholic style, I also bought the Sunwayman one from Fasttech too the other day. Well, at that price, it would be rude not to,wouldn’t it?
You could just dab a small amount of solder onto the positive contact, that’s what I do with most of my laptop pulls.
With my soldering skills? Actually I probably will give it a shot. My only other soldering attempt (first for about 20 years, when I screwed up some speaker plugs) was with a Nitecore OEM EZ-AA. That went surprisingly well, so I could be on a roll.
Thanks for the tip.
I got my l2 host today.
I can report that its an excellent host, and with a nw xp-g2, driven at 3a, gives a lovely smooth beam and completly smokes my fandyfire stl-v6 in throw, I now need a 20mm xp-g sinkpad, cw xp-g2, a bit of petrol and a resistor to “correct” the current. …
As for the RRT01 vs V11R, the factors which decided things for me were the less-sturdy clip on the V11R and the clicky tail switch. I don’t want the light falling out of its clip, and I don’t want to have to rotate the light 180 degrees all the time to switch between power toggle and 1-handed brightness adjustment. … Well, that, and the timing, since FastTech didn’t yet have the V11R when I ordered.
The RRT01 is also slightly smaller, as shown in this pic I found:
I would say that one feature in favor of the RRT01 is the infinitely variable output too. But I personally like the V10x setup of a tail clicky on/off button and an infinitely variable ring.
Budget Light Forum ...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!
There’s been a misunderstanding,I didn’t mean to imply that the niteye tf20 and tf25 were 3 mode.It was more about how they ramp up.here are selfbuilds graphs showing current linear and visually linear light outputs.The jetbeam RRT15 and21 were current linear as is a 33%/66%/100% 3 mode,the nitecore IFE2 and swm V20 are more visually linear,like a 5%/25%/100% 3 mode.That was the point I was trying to get across.It was my first post and didn’t know how to post links,this is my first post with a link,hope it worked.
I saw the TF25 on special last month at Illumination Supply,so wanted to know if it was current or visual linear,no tests said anything but I found a russian video which seemed to show a rapid rise in light output from the start of twisting the ring and then a german test that said something like-the light goes to max brightness pretty fast-(my translation)which I took to mean current linear,so I didn“t buy it.That was the only “evidence” that the TF’s were current linear.I’d be interested to know how your TF’s behave in reality.If you twist it to half of the max range,is it more low or high?
After the post and the replies,I researched some more and came to 2 conclusions;
Most RC123A torches seem to have been visually linear from the start,the ultra low low’s is a clue.
I suspect manufacturers have changed the ui from current to visually linear without new models or publicity,but that’s only a suspicion,as I say.
I hope this clears up any confusion,both of your TF’s are infinitely variable of course,and I hope they’re visually linear,or resposive enough anyhow.Cheers,Tom
I did buy some magnets a while back, but I’d feel safer with a dab of solder tbh, less chance of dropping the thing and having the magnet short the light – and these are expensive lights.
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