Fasttech - interesting new products - Flashlights, chargers, batteries and DIY and knives - please no discussions.

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TSellers
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Thanks for taking the time to

Thanks for taking the time to let me know. As the only tritium I have ever used are in two of my watches and on the sights of my work issue firearm, I don’t have much experience with them. Are those 1.5×6mm the most popular for fitting to lights? For example I measured the fins on the Convoy M2 and it seems like they would fit between them. I assume there must be lots of threads that have emerged over the years here and at CPF with examples of what people have done. I think I read on his thread at CPF that the vials that are smaller than the 15.x6 do not shed much light. I’m not sure what size they are in my watch but they are not all that bright.

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Essexman
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Here in the UK we can walk

Here in the UK we can walk into a fishing takle shop and buy Tritium in all sizes. Or go on UK eBay and search for “isotope”, you might even find a seller who will ship overseas.

Be aware in the states there are some issues with buying/importing tritium as the gov are worried their people will do something naughty with it like David Hahn – http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/David_Hahn

Now let us get back on topic………… Smile

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Well that’s interesting, I’m

Well that’s interesting, I’m downloading The Nuclear Boy Scout right now, thanks for the tip!

According to a post on laserpointerforums that looks legit as it quotes the relevant regulations with attributable sources, no problems in Canada for those items, given all the gunsights in the USA I assumed that these vials would be sold with the Bud Light there. Fishing shops? Would get expensive if the fish swallowed it, not to mention a bit iffy to eat? For Salmon fishing (actually that would read ‘poaching’) you could attach a fish hook to the lanyard on a Convoy M2 and pull them in that way I suppose.

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gords1001 wrote:Essexman

gords1001 wrote:

Essexman wrote:

Chloe wrote:

Also a Roche F12 DIY host


Which part is the heat sink? I’m looking for a round part without a hole through it?? I wouldn’t want to run any high current LEDs without good heatsinking.

looking at that picture I’m thinking that the star and driver fasten straight into the head without a separate pill, good for heat transfer but its going to be like keyhole surgery……

the f8 is certainly built like that

The heat transfer is noticeable too. I find the F12 gets hotter quicker at 1.75A than the convoy S3 does at 2.8A.

gords1001
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Essexman wrote:Here in the UK

Essexman wrote:
Here in the UK we can walk into a fishing takle shop and buy Tritium in all sizes. Or go on UK eBay and search for “isotope”, you might even find a seller who will ship overseas.

Be aware in the states there are some issues with buying/importing tritium as the gov are worried their people will do something naughty with it like David Hahn – http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/David_Hahn

Now let us get back on topic………… :)

you mean there actually is something we’re allowed to play with that the yanks are not? cool, off to my local tackle shop Cool

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gords1001 wrote: you mean

gords1001 wrote:

you mean there actually is something we’re allowed to play with that the yanks are not? cool, off to my local tackle shop 8)

Right. I’m starting a Petition – “Ban this Stuff”, “Down with this Class of Thing”.

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no petitions please the

no petitions please the nation is in mourning/party mood…

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Yes, I’ve been playing Elvis

Yes, I’ve been playing Elvis Costello’s Tramp the Dirt Down round the clock. Wink

Essexman
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gords1001 wrote:Essexman

gords1001 wrote:
Essexman wrote:
Here in the UK we can walk into a fishing takle shop and buy Tritium in all sizes. Or go on UK eBay and search for “isotope”, you might even find a seller who will ship overseas.

Be aware in the states there are some issues with buying/importing tritium as the gov are worried their people will do something naughty with it like David Hahn – http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/David_Hahn

Now let us get back on topic………… :)

you mean there actually is something we’re allowed to play with that the yanks are not? cool, off to my local tackle shop 8)

Yes isotopes and Kinder eggs are all ours!. You know that Kinder eggs are illegal in the US right? So don’t pack any in your case when going on holiday, otherwsie you (and the kids) may end up with a big fine or jail time.

Smile

Now please can we get back on topic ……….. Big smile

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Jetbeam RRT01

The Jetbeam RRT01 I ordered showed up today. Here are some of my initial impressions / observations:

It’s smaller than I expected, which is good. It’s almost as small as a ZL SC52, maybe 2-3mm longer and the back end of the body is wider (same diameter as the bezel of the SC52). Because it’s short, one-handed operation requires holding the light with my middle finger (or middle+ring) and turning the ring with my index finger + thumb. The grip is similar to one-handed operation of my iTP A3 EOS 1xAAA twisty.

The clip is shorter than in the pictures I’ve seen online, which is also good. It doesn’t get even close to blocking the control ring. It also does not seem to rub the front half of the light when unscrewing the torch to put in a new battery; it stops just barely short of that. I’ll see if I can get pictures later.

The reflector is OP/LOP, and I see no rings in the beam aside from the usual mach bands at the outer edge of the spill.

The control ring works very well, though it’s a little bit sticky and could use some lube. It can be slightly difficult to move it by, say, half a millimeter, and instead it’ll want to move by 2mm. I mostly notice this near the high end of its range. Not really an issue though.

I’m pleased to report that the control ring seems to be a visually-linear brightness adjustment, so almost the entire range is useful (the ends seem to reach min/max slightly before the detent, but that’s okay).

It’s definitely not a 3-mode light, as one person suggested. I can get at least 50 visually-different levels out of it, and that’s mostly limited by the ring being a little sticky.

The dimmest levels are lower than the SC52’s dimmest mode, dimmer than a tritium vial, and actually so dim that I can barely tell the LED is on if I hold the light directly up to my eye in a totally dark room. In fact, I can’t even tell where it shuts off, because it fades so smoothly down to zero. You won’t be left complaining that it’s too bright.

I don’t have to turn it up and then back down to get to the dimmest levels. It comes on at the dimmest level my eye can detect when I hold it up to my eyeball in a dark room.

The brightest level (on a half-charged Nitecore 650mAh 16340 battery) appears to be about the same brightness as a ZL SC52 on turbo (Sanyo 840mAh 14500 battery, fully charged). I don’t have any meters or an integrating sphere though.

The body color is almost, but not quite, black. It’s a very dark, smoky grey.

The included materials say Jetbeam half the time and Niteye half the time. The torch itself actually says both on its logo side: “JETBeam ® // www.niteyelight.com”

Although the 16340 battery is loose inside the body, it doesn’t rattle when screwed together.

It tailstands easily, and the lanyard nub doesn’t stick out at all.

Aside from the poor runtimes (max ~4 days, compared to 3 months for the SC52), I’m very happy with this light. It looks much more attractive than the military drab color of my SC52, and will probably go into rotation for EDC use.

So, overall, this batch at FastTech seems to be better than the initial batches which were so highly reviewed at CPF. The only ways I’d like to see it improved are longer runtimes and maybe a bit of lube under the control ring.

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ToyKeeper wrote:The Jetbeam

ToyKeeper wrote:
The Jetbeam RRT01 I ordered showed up today. Here are some of my initial impressions / observations:

It’s smaller than I expected, which is good. It’s almost as small as a ZL SC52, maybe 2-3mm longer and the back end of the body is wider (same diameter as the bezel of the SC52). Because it’s short, one-handed operation requires holding the light with my middle finger (or middle+ring) and turning the ring with my index finger + thumb. The grip is similar to one-handed operation of my iTP A3 EOS 1xAAA twisty.

The clip is shorter than in the pictures I’ve seen online, which is also good. It doesn’t get even close to blocking the control ring. It also does not seem to rub the front half of the light when unscrewing the torch to put in a new battery; it stops just barely short of that. I’ll see if I can get pictures later.

The reflector is OP/LOP, and I see no rings in the beam aside from the usual mach bands at the outer edge of the spill.

The control ring works very well, though it’s a little bit sticky and could use some lube. It can be slightly difficult to move it by, say, half a millimeter, and instead it’ll want to move by 2mm. I mostly notice this near the high end of its range. Not really an issue though.

I’m pleased to report that the control ring seems to be a visually-linear brightness adjustment, so almost the entire range is useful (the ends seem to reach min/max slightly before the detent, but that’s okay).

It’s definitely not a 3-mode light, as one person suggested. I can get at least 50 visually-different levels out of it, and that’s mostly limited by the ring being a little sticky.

The dimmest levels are lower than the SC52’s dimmest mode, dimmer than a tritium vial, and actually so dim that I can barely tell the LED is on if I hold the light directly up to my eye in a totally dark room. In fact, I can’t even tell where it shuts off, because it fades so smoothly down to zero. You won’t be left complaining that it’s too bright.

I don’t have to turn it up and then back down to get to the dimmest levels. It comes on at the dimmest level my eye can detect when I hold it up to my eyeball in a dark room.

The brightest level (on a half-charged Nitecore 650mAh 16340 battery) appears to be about the same brightness as a ZL SC52 on turbo (Sanyo 840mAh 14500 battery, fully charged). I don’t have any meters or an integrating sphere though.

The body color is almost, but not quite, black. It’s a very dark, smoky grey.

The included materials say Jetbeam half the time and Niteye half the time. The torch itself actually says both on its logo side: “JETBeam ® // www.niteyelight.com”

Although the 16340 battery is loose inside the body, it doesn’t rattle when screwed together.

It tailstands easily, and the lanyard nub doesn’t stick out at all.

Aside from the poor runtimes (max ~4 days, compared to 3 months for the SC52), I’m very happy with this light. It looks much more attractive than the military drab color of my SC52, and will probably go into rotation for EDC use.

So, overall, this batch at FastTech seems to be better than the initial batches which were so highly reviewed at CPF. The only ways I’d like to see it improved are longer runtimes and maybe a bit of lube under the control ring.

Good news – thanks for the update. I have one on the way from the Thrunite group buy, and it’s hopefully the same (Op reflector, shortened clip). Pretty much as I expected, so looking forward to mine. Only pain is that I have 18350 efest IMR’s waiting for it … which are flat-top, so won’t fit.

It took me about 9 months deliberating between the RRT-01 and the V11R before I finally pulled the trigger on this one. In true flashaholic style, I also bought the Sunwayman one from Fasttech too the other day. Well, at that price, it would be rude not to,wouldn’t it?

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Essexman wrote: Yes isotopes

Essexman wrote:

Yes isotopes and Kinder eggs are all ours!. You know that Kinder eggs are illegal in the US right? So don’t pack any in your case when going on holiday, otherwsie you (and the kids) may end up with a big fine or jail time.

http://gawker.com/5990806/

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Woody wrote:Only pain is that

Woody wrote:
Only pain is that I have 18350 efest IMR’s waiting for it … which are flat-top, so won’t fit.

You could just dab a small amount of solder onto the positive contact, that’s what I do with most of my laptop pulls.

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RedForest UK wrote:Woody

RedForest UK wrote:
Woody wrote:
Only pain is that I have 18350 efest IMR’s waiting for it … which are flat-top, so won’t fit.

You could just dab a small amount of solder onto the positive contact, that’s what I do with most of my laptop pulls.

With my soldering skills? Actually I probably will give it a shot. My only other soldering attempt (first for about 20 years, when I screwed up some speaker plugs) was with a Nitecore OEM EZ-AA. That went surprisingly well, so I could be on a roll.

Thanks for the tip.

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I got my l2 host today. I

I got my l2 host today.

I can report that its an excellent host, and with a nw xp-g2, driven at 3a, gives a lovely smooth beam and completly smokes my fandyfire stl-v6 in throw, I now need a 20mm xp-g sinkpad, cw xp-g2, a bit of petrol and a resistor to “correct” the current. … Crazy Innocent

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RRT01 vs V11R

Woody wrote:
Good news – thanks for the update. I have one on the way from the Thrunite group buy, and it’s hopefully the same (Op reflector, shortened clip). Pretty much as I expected, so looking forward to mine. Only pain is that I have 18350 efest IMR’s waiting for it … which are flat-top, so won’t fit.

It took me about 9 months deliberating between the RRT-01 and the V11R before I finally pulled the trigger on this one. In true flashaholic style, I also bought the Sunwayman one from Fasttech too the other day. Well, at that price, it would be rude not to,wouldn’t it?


If you have a small magnet, you should be able to get the 18350 cells to work… but my RRT01 definitely has some reverse-polarity protection, so flat-top won’t work by itself.

As for the RRT01 vs V11R, the factors which decided things for me were the less-sturdy clip on the V11R and the clicky tail switch. I don’t want the light falling out of its clip, and I don’t want to have to rotate the light 180 degrees all the time to switch between power toggle and 1-handed brightness adjustment. … Well, that, and the timing, since FastTech didn’t yet have the V11R when I ordered.

The RRT01 is also slightly smaller, as shown in this pic I found:

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ToyKeeper wrote:Woody

ToyKeeper wrote:
Woody wrote:
Good news – thanks for the update. I have one on the way from the Thrunite group buy, and it’s hopefully the same (Op reflector, shortened clip). Pretty much as I expected, so looking forward to mine. Only pain is that I have 18350 efest IMR’s waiting for it … which are flat-top, so won’t fit.

It took me about 9 months deliberating between the RRT-01 and the V11R before I finally pulled the trigger on this one. In true flashaholic style, I also bought the Sunwayman one from Fasttech too the other day. Well, at that price, it would be rude not to,wouldn’t it?


If you have a small magnet, you should be able to get the 18350 cells to work… but my RRT01 definitely has some reverse-polarity protection, so flat-top won’t work by itself.

As for the RRT01 vs V11R, the factors which decided things for me were the less-sturdy clip on the V11R and the clicky tail switch. I don’t want the light falling out of its clip, and I don’t want to have to rotate the light 180 degrees all the time to switch between power toggle and 1-handed brightness adjustment. … Well, that, and the timing, since FastTech didn’t yet have the V11R when I ordered.

The RRT01 is also slightly smaller, as shown in this pic I found:

I would say that one feature in favor of the RRT01 is the infinitely variable output too. But I personally like the V10x setup of a tail clicky on/off button and an infinitely variable ring.

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niteye tf20/25

Hi ohaya There’s been a misunderstanding,I didn’t mean to imply that the niteye tf20 and tf25 were 3 mode.It was more about how they ramp up.here are selfbuilds graphs showing current linear and visually linear light outputs.The jetbeam RRT15 and21 were current linear as is a 33%/66%/100% 3 mode,the nitecore IFE2 and swm V20 are more visually linear,like a 5%/25%/100% 3 mode.That was the point I was trying to get across.It was my first post and didn’t know how to post links,this is my first post with a link,hope it worked.
I saw the TF25 on special last month at Illumination Supply,so wanted to know if it was current or visual linear,no tests said anything but I found a russian video which seemed to show a rapid rise in light output from the start of twisting the ring and then a german test that said something like-the light goes to max brightness pretty fast-(my translation)which I took to mean current linear,so I didn“t buy it.That was the only “evidence” that the TF’s were current linear.I’d be interested to know how your TF’s behave in reality.If you twist it to half of the max range,is it more low or high? After the post and the replies,I researched some more and came to 2 conclusions; Most RC123A torches seem to have been visually linear from the start,the ultra low low’s is a clue. I suspect manufacturers have changed the ui from current to visually linear without new models or publicity,but that’s only a suspicion,as I say. I hope this clears up any confusion,both of your TF’s are infinitely variable of course,and I hope they’re visually linear,or resposive enough anyhow.Cheers,Tom

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ToyKeeper wrote: If you have

ToyKeeper wrote:

If you have a small magnet, you should be able to get the 18350 cells to work… but my RRT01 definitely has some reverse-polarity protection, so flat-top won’t work by itself.

I did buy some magnets a while back, but I’d feel safer with a dab of solder tbh, less chance of dropping the thing and having the magnet short the light – and these are expensive lights.

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Woody wrote:I did buy some

Woody wrote:
I did buy some magnets a while back, but I’d feel safer with a dab of solder tbh, less chance of dropping the thing and having the magnet short the light – and these are expensive lights.

I think the reverse-polarity protection would also prevent shorting the light, assuming the magnet is small enough to fit. The positive contact has a small plastic bowl around it, which would make it nearly impossible for a flat object to contact both the poles at the same time.

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The RRT01 looks nice, but I

The RRT01 looks nice, but I don’t need another light (I have to keep telling myself this >.<).

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Chloe wrote:The RRT01 looks

Chloe wrote:
The RRT01 looks nice, but I don’t need another light (I have to keep telling myself this >.<).

But what if your other lights stop working?

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They can’t all stop working!

They can’t all stop working!

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Course they can. Buy it –

Course they can. Buy it – you know you want to. Smile

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FT finally carrying a Convoy

FT finally carrying a Convoy EDC w/clip . The S4 is a decent looking 18650 light…but what do you think about the way the clip mounts to the ring surrounding the switch…wonder if it will hold up? Seems like it might eventually cause stress fractures along that thin rail and shear off. Nevertheless I’m happy they are getting Convoys w/clips in.

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FT listed a lot of new

FT listed a lot of new products for flashies Smile

A Convoy S4 host and many Convoy S4 with XM-L with different binnings (T4-7C, T5-5C, T6-3C, T6-4C, or U2-1B) and 4/6/8 x 7135 (similar to the Roche F12 a few days ago). One with a XP-G R5-1A, too. Price range: $21-$26 Link, only the host $15,17 - save 5% with coupon BLF. You can use one link and choose any model with the drop-down menu  -  non aff-link

Also some Olight M20 filters (blue - red - green) and a diffusor. Each for $6,71, diffusor $5,02.

And the listed some XP-G2 LEDs on 14, 16 and 20mm base (XPGBWT XP-G2 R5-1A 472-Lumen 6500-7000K LED Emitter).
A little bit confusing is the information: Input Type DC 2.8-3.15V. Couldn't I use it with the Nanjg 105C?

FT listed price: $2,86-2,87 Link - non aff-link

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don't need another light?

Chloe wrote:
The RRT01 looks nice, but I don’t need another light (I have to keep telling myself this >.<).

I’m getting to the point where I don’t have to keep telling myself that. Most lights don’t look very interesting any more because very few have anything sufficiently new or different compared to what I already have.

The only types I don’t have yet (and might want) are a high-CRI light (L10?), a pencil-beam aspheric thrower (ZY-C10-S), and a custom or BLF-edition light. Oh, and a true strobe light, but I just have to re-flash one of my Convoy S3s for that.

I’ve mostly moved on to upgrading other parts of my EDC, like a nice rainbow titanium nitride Fisher Space Bullet pen with purple ink and a little notebook, a keychain diamond-coated file, tritium and regular GitD keyfobs, an S-biner-based keychain, a Leatherman Juice S2 compact multitool, a TPU case for my phone, a new purse, lip balms, etc.

However, I got a bunch of great little stuff from FastTech today, like USB cables and adapters and stuff. I’ve also gotten some nice steampunk necklaces there, a Valentine’s gag gift (solar-powered cockroaches), a bike-themed knife for my friend, and other random stuff. And I’ll probably be getting some Android mini-PCs and a tablet soonish, of which they have a very nice selection.

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Convoy

Are all the Convoys reverse clicky? I generally like them, but the reverse click is a dealbreaker for me.

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Sunwayman Mirage

Sunwayman Mirage for under $80!!! I wanted this light since it was released and ordered it few weeks ago from Ebay. I got it for $105 what I thought then as a fair price. I just never expected FT to have them so cheap, considering the limited status and all. Had I only waited for a couple weeks more… Crying
Obviously I am the only person really liking this one!

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ToyKeeper wrote:I’m getting

ToyKeeper wrote:
I’m getting to the point where I don’t have to keep telling myself that. Most lights don’t look very interesting any more because very few have anything sufficiently new or different compared to what I already have.

The only types I don’t have yet (and might want) are a high-CRI light (L10?), a pencil-beam aspheric thrower (ZY-C10-S), and a custom or BLF-edition light. Oh, and a true strobe light, but I just have to re-flash one of my Convoy S3s for that.

I do need it then, because I don’t have one with the variable control ring. >.< I also want need a high-CRI light but in AAA package. The L10 was tempting, in pink especially, but the Preon has spoiled me.

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