Review: Uniquefire G10 1xAA [ 14500 ] 6 Mode

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old4570
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Review: Uniquefire G10 1xAA [ 14500 ] 6 Mode

http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a420/old4570/ScreenShot041.jpg

 

UniqueFire G10 CREE XP-G R5 6-Mode from DX 


First Impressions: 


 I was a little surprised by how well the light felt in my hand , the clicky is very easy to use , and I thought the beam quality to be excellent . There is no lube to speak of on the threads , so taking of and putting the tail-cap back on is a little rough [ Dry ] , but a little lube quickly smooths things out . 

Warning !  

Running a 14500 in this light has damaged the driver , AA batteries no longer work , and the output has become unstable , varying from 90Lumen to 200Lumen and then back down to as low as 50Lumen , I would say the driver is toast . So be aware that using a 14500 may destroy the driver . [ This sample has a damaged driver now from using a 14500 ] 


Description From DX .


Brand:UniqueFire
Model:G10
Casing Color:Black
Emitter Brand/Type:CREE
Emitter BIN:XP-G R5
Color Temperature:-
Color BIN:White
Total Emitters:1
Battery Configurations:1 * AA or 1 * 14500 rechargeable battery (not included)
Voltage Input:0.9~4.2V 4.2V Max.
Switch Type:Clicky/Clickie
Switch Location:Tailcap (Tail-cap)
Modes:6
Mode Memory:-
Mode Arrangement:Hi > Mid > Lo > Fast Strobe > Slow Strobe > SOS
Circuitry:Digital Regulated 1200mA Current Output
Brightness:350 lumens maximum brightness (manufacturer rated)
Runtime:50 minutes(manufacturer rated)
Lens:Coated Glass Lens
Reflector:Aluminum Smooth/OP Reflector
Carrying Strap:

Strap Included



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100_2874.jpg


Lets move directly to AA performance , now Im going to hold of on running a 14500 in this light until I have posted the AA beamshots , as there have been reports of 14500's killing the driver , so if the light survives I will update with 14500 figures .


AA Nimh Performance : 


Recyko = High / 1.88A / 113Lumen  -  Medium / 1.07A / 61Lumen - Low / 0.47A / 17Lumen

Eneloop = High / 1.87A / 107L - Medium / 1.06A / 61L - Low / 0.47A / 17L

Duracell = High / 1.88A / 106L - Medium / 1.04A / 56L - Low / 0.47 / 17L

KodaK = High / 1.88A / 113L - Medium / 1.05A / 64L  - Low / 0.47A / 17L 


Beams tonight . 



Conclusion on AA :

I was a little worried the light would never arrive , It took time for DX to get the light , and it took a very long time after they said it had shipped , for the light to finally arrive , for a while there !  Its here and I like it so far , the only thing is the lack of performance on AA's , its not very good for the current draw or the XP-G R5 emitter  .  Perhaps the light is optimized towards the use of  14500 Li-ion batteries , and the AA's simply cant do the light justice [ we will find out in part two ] . The clicky is very nice , a solid mechanical action without being soft or overly firm . The light does have memory , but you have to wait  some 4 seconds before turning the light back on for it to activate or you will turn the light on in the next mode . 


     Overall , Im very happy with the light , its one of the better AA lights I have got my hands on , and as mentioned before it has an excellent beam , especially considering the smooth reflector . It has a very well defined hotspot , and I just cant wait for it to get dark out , so I can go out and play [ eer - test ] with the G10 . The machining and anodizing look to be well done , and the threads are well cut [ but bone dry ] , this sample has to be one of the better made lights in this price bracket . Aside from the lack of performance on AA's , I have nothing negative to report about this light , so until tonight , when I can post some beams , and then move onto testing the 14500's , 


Part 2 soon 


Low / Medium and High powered by a Eneloop Nimh .  I will try 14500 now ... 

Warning !  

Running a 14500 in this light has damaged the driver , AA batteries no longer work , and the output has become unstable , varying from 90Lumen to 200Lumen and then back down to as low as 50Lumen , I would say the driver is toast . So be aware that using a 14500 may destroy the driver . [ This sample has a damaged driver now from using a 14500 ] 


So there you go , I was right to be cautious , Ive gone and toasted the driver running a 14500 , so please be warned that if you buy this light , you may wish to limit your self to AA batteries , and in that regard [ AA ] , this is not the best AA flashlight out there , but output / driver efficiency aside , it has a really nice beam . This one will now get a new driver , I have a few 1A spare drivers , but there all 3v-4.2v , so no AA compatibility after a driver swap . Well , how unfortunate , but these are the things we need to sort out  for you the reader .   

 Always remember , the easiest thing in the world to do , is to expel hot air from your lungs and through some vocal chords ..
The resulting sound may , or may not be worth listening too ….

 

Edited by: sb56637 on 08/26/2014 - 17:06
Nautic
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Thanks for the very fine review.. Mine took a long time to arrive too, and

it only took 5 seconds for a 14500 to destroy the driver. Anyway put in a new

driver and now it works fine, but are only a one mode version.

Have made a claim to DX and will have to wait what they will say about it

Cheap quality is good - Expensive crap isn´t

sb56637
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Thanks for the nice review Old! Frontpage'd and Sticky'd. Sorry about the damage from the 14500 battery. Typical case of false advertising from DealExtreme. I hope they send you a replacement and update their product page....That'll be the day. Smile

Budget Light Forum ...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

SashiX
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$hit, the same happened to fran, if I remember well Frown I really like body style, but if with AA it's mediocre... will have to discard this light. Hope DX will send you a new light, Matt Wink 

BlueBeam
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I seen a pic somewhere of the driver this light used. It is the same red one with the red trace that was in my K10 and C3SS and some F20's. This driver has been reported to always fry with 3.7V.

I wish I had read this sooner that you were going to try a 14500 then I could have warned you.Cry

Nautic
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BlueBeam wrote:

I seen a pic somewhere of the driver this light used. It is the same red one with the red trace that was in my K10 and C3SS and some F20's. This driver has been reported to always fry with 3.7V.

I wish I had read this sooner that you were going to try a 14500 then I could have warned you.Cry

 

It was this red driver mine was issued with.

 

I think old knew it was a risk to use 14500´s in this light. I had writen it in another thread

about the G10.

Cheap quality is good - Expensive crap isn´t

Vectrex
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BlueBeam wrote:

I seen a pic somewhere of the driver this light used.

It might have been here. Luckily I didn't have any 14500s-

old4570
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I had to try the 14500 no matter what ...  I have spare drivers , so it will become a dedicated 14500 light , but yeah , DX owes me a driver ..

 Always remember , the easiest thing in the world to do , is to expel hot air from your lungs and through some vocal chords ..
The resulting sound may , or may not be worth listening too ….

 

Vectrex
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old4570 you are so hardcore, testing this... knowing that it most likely would fail to withstand the test.

old4570
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Had to do it ....  No point testing stuff , if your not going to test it , or test claims ...

 Always remember , the easiest thing in the world to do , is to expel hot air from your lungs and through some vocal chords ..
The resulting sound may , or may not be worth listening too ….

 

fishinfool
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Another awesome review old4570! 

 

Don wrote:

"But as I said long ago, you are more likely to be killed by a dead fish dropped by a seagull in the Sahara Desert than by a lithium ion

Squidboy
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5 Mode UniqueFire G10

 

A mate in the office got the 5 Mode G10 from DX (grey annodised) and has had no issues at all with 14500 batteries.

Thought you may like to know

 

Candlepower (abbreviated as cp) is a now-obsolete unit which was used to express levels of light intensity.

Candlepowerforums (abbreviated as cpf) a website, also obsolete.

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I got a full refund from DX on my G10 which was fried by a 14500 battery.

Cheap quality is good - Expensive crap isn´t

trooplewis
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I have one of these coming in a few days, supposedly it is an XP-G

Does anyone know which driver doesn't get fried by a 14500?

 

OK, mine came today. This is the back of the driver that is in it.

Can this one run on a 14500?  Thanks...

 

Rats, finally sold my 2010 509hp Mustang...now I can buy more lights!

Sold the red one too! Now guess what I drive, doing my penance for 500 hp commuters...

http://dreammustang.com/

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac47/Ha

Langcjl
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I posted my thoughts below your post on the what you got today thread

Piers said " ....but who wants enough light, when you have the option for far too much "

old4570
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trooplewis wrote:

I have one of these coming in a few days, supposedly it is an XP-G

Does anyone know which driver doesn't get fried by a 14500?

 

OK, mine came today. This is the back of the driver that is in it.

Can this one run on a 14500?  Thanks...

 

That is different to the one I fried ...  [ not the same driver ] 

 Always remember , the easiest thing in the world to do , is to expel hot air from your lungs and through some vocal chords ..
The resulting sound may , or may not be worth listening too ….

 

trooplewis
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I guess it is a good thing my 14500 batteries are still in the mail, looks like they may be too much for the driver. Mine is a 6-mode (what a waste of 3 clicks, getting past the blinkies). Since DX is still shipping them I wonder if they now have a true 4.2v capability?

Hmmmmmmmm

 

BTW, this light on AA and "High" mode is not quite as bright as the Jetbeam BC10 I got last week, which they advertise at 160 Lumens.

If the Jetbeam really is 160 (I doubt it) then the G10 is probably about 120.

Rats, finally sold my 2010 509hp Mustang...now I can buy more lights!

Sold the red one too! Now guess what I drive, doing my penance for 500 hp commuters...

http://dreammustang.com/

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac47/Ha

old4570
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I put in a 17 mode / 3 level 1A driver , and its fantastic on a 14500 ..

Just wish KD still had there buck boost drivers , in fact I might have to email them and find out if there getting more . 

Or order a few more DX ones .. 

 Always remember , the easiest thing in the world to do , is to expel hot air from your lungs and through some vocal chords ..
The resulting sound may , or may not be worth listening too ….

 

BlueBeam
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trooplewis wrote:

I have one of these coming in a few days, supposedly it is an XP-G

Does anyone know which driver doesn't get fried by a 14500?

 

OK, mine came today. This is the back of the driver that is in it.

Can this one run on a 14500?  Thanks...

 

This driver WILL FRY!

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Mine was exactly the same and it went up in smoke in 5 seconds.

Cheap quality is good - Expensive crap isn´t

ralf
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Have two of the G10's (DX sent me a replacement for the first without requiring a return).  Unlike the other reports I'm seeing, mine didn't fry immediately, but after a bit of use.  The first one went completely dead four minutes into a 14500 rundown test (after having played around with it on both NiMH and 14500 for a while and done a NiMH rundown test), the second one now works only on 14500s.  Both have the driver with the partial-circle circuit trace shown above.

After DX told me they were sending a replacement and to do whatever I could with the first one, I took it apart and started experimenting a bit with the idea of turning it into a direct drive light.  In the process I discovered that if I connected the LED+ lead to battery+ and the outer contact ring on the bottom of the driver board to battery-, all six modes worked perfectly (on 14500 only, of course).  Clearly, the boost circuit had died.  I found that the near side of one of the SMD components next to the LED+ solder pad was connected directly to battery+, so I shorted the two together with a bit of solder and wound up with a working 14500-only flashlight.

The second one fried a couple of days ago, but since it still works on 14500 even without the above mod, I haven't yet decided whether I should see if "third time's the charm"....  It does draw noticeably less tailcap current than the other one, so I might go ahead and short LED+ to battery+ on it as well.  On both, H/M/L currents are in the ratio 100/50/8.  PWM is fast, only visible on my PC's CPU fan.

Tim
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Hi everyone! I am new to this forum and I really like what I read so far.

I bought this one too on DX and mine worked quite well for some time with 14500 but eventually it died aswell, after an hour of usage in total I would say.

I tried to solder it to be direct driven as described above but being a total newbie I killed the LED in the process. I believe my driver was killed because one of the transistors (or whatever the little black things are) became loose as a result of getting too hot. I could here it rattle after the light died and it fell out after unsoldering the circuit board from the round thingy (I am not only an electronics newb but also not a native speaker of English)

DX gave me store credit however so it was definitely worth the try.

The thing is: I really loved this flashlight, it was perfect in all respects except that it dies of course.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a light that is comparable in size and light output that really works with 14500 batteries?

I also own a Ultrafire C1 which is an awesome light but a bit bulky for an EDC and a C3 which is quite handy but definitely lacks the punch of the G10.

Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance for your help.

how2
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Hello Tim

You could try the  Ultrafire U20 Cree XP-G $17.60I have this light and it works with 14500 and AA batteries.

But the king of AA/14500 lights would be the Trustfire R5-A3 ($14.70, $14.08)this is the brightest light. The Manafont light is High/Mid/Strobe the other 2 light are High/Low/Strobe.

You could also try the Ultrafire M2 $18.03 .

old4570
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I have a M2 on the way ...  Got my fingers crossed ... 

 Always remember , the easiest thing in the world to do , is to expel hot air from your lungs and through some vocal chords ..
The resulting sound may , or may not be worth listening too ….

 

Nautic
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Tim wrote:

Hi everyone! I am new to this forum and I really like what I read so far.

I bought this one too on DX and mine worked quite well for some time with 14500 but eventually it died aswell, after an hour of usage in total I would say.

I tried to solder it to be direct driven as described above but being a total newbie I killed the LED in the process. I believe my driver was killed because one of the transistors (or whatever the little black things are) became loose as a result of getting too hot. I could here it rattle after the light died and it fell out after unsoldering the circuit board from the round thingy (I am not only an electronics newb but also not a native speaker of English)

DX gave me store credit however so it was definitely worth the try.

The thing is: I really loved this flashlight, it was perfect in all respects except that it dies of course.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a light that is comparable in size and light output that really works with 14500 batteries?

I also own a Ultrafire C1 which is an awesome light but a bit bulky for an EDC and a C3 which is quite handy but definitely lacks the punch of the G10.

Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance for your help.

 

Do you mean the Ultrafire C3? I have both the G10 and the C3 and the latter is brighter.

But C3 comes in different versions. Do buy the Manafont R5, this:

http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/ultrafire-c3-cree-r5-led-mode-flashlight-aa14500-p-4432

Cheap quality is good - Expensive crap isn´t

fishinfool
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Aloha and welcome to BLF Tim!

 

Don wrote:

"But as I said long ago, you are more likely to be killed by a dead fish dropped by a seagull in the Sahara Desert than by a lithium ion

BlueBeam
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Tim wrote:

Hi everyone! I am new to this forum and I really like what I read so far.

I bought this one too on DX and mine worked quite well for some time with 14500 but eventually it died aswell, after an hour of usage in total I would say.

I tried to solder it to be direct driven as described above but being a total newbie I killed the LED in the process. I believe my driver was killed because one of the transistors (or whatever the little black things are) became loose as a result of getting too hot. I could here it rattle after the light died and it fell out after unsoldering the circuit board from the round thingy (I am not only an electronics newb but also not a native speaker of English)

DX gave me store credit however so it was definitely worth the try.

The thing is: I really loved this flashlight, it was perfect in all respects except that it dies of course.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a light that is comparable in size and light output that really works with 14500 batteries?

I also own a Ultrafire C1 which is an awesome light but a bit bulky for an EDC and a C3 which is quite handy but definitely lacks the punch of the G10.

Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance for your help.

Might I suggest the SkyRay S-A1. It isn't a XP-G but it is an XP-E. It works great on nimh and 14500. It is a very nice torch and I am sure you will love one. It has a great beam. It is my favorite torch under 20 bucks.
ralf
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Tim wrote:

I tried to solder it to be direct driven as described above but being a total newbie I killed the LED in the process. I believe my driver was killed because one of the transistors (or whatever the little black things are) became loose as a result of getting too hot. I could here it rattle after the light died and it fell out after unsoldering the circuit board from the round thingy (I am not only an electronics newb but also not a native speaker of English)

Hi Tim,

Unless you were holding the soldering iron against the LED, you didn't kill it. There are two parts to the driver's circuitry -- voltage boost and pulse-width modulation. The former allows an alkaline or NiMH to drive the LED, the latter blinks the LED extremely rapidly to get the different brightness levels. It sounds like the latter failed when the component came loose (most likely not properly soldered in the first place -- I doubt the driver would have gotten hot enough to melt the solder). You should still be able to convert the light to pure direct drive by connecting the two LED leads to battery+ and battery-. At least on the driver board I messed with, the transistor that switches the LED for PWM is between the LED- lead and battery-, while the voltage boost circuit is between battery+ and LED+. Doing so loses the modes, of course -- no blinkies and no low/medium.

Ifrit
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sad to hear the drivers in these flashlights are burning out on 14500's. i have used the s10,

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/uniquefire-s10-cree-r2-wc-220-lumen-led-flashlight-black-1-aa-1-14500-30987

for at least a year now as my EDC always with an 14500 and have never had a problem. Would've loved to upgrade to an XP-G. :/

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I'm running 1-Mode G10 with 14500, still working. Very bright, gets hot quickly thou.

hollisterco
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so which driver would you guys recommend for this light? im here bc my driver also died but i never ran any 14500's, one that could handle 14500 and nimh would be ideal i have had these recommended, but dont know much about these things or how to solder them to the flashlight 

 

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/2-8-4-2v-3-mode-circuit-board-for-flashlights-16-7mm-50527

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/5-mode-1000ma-7135-circuit-board-for-cree-and-ssc-emitters-6190

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/3v-8-4v-5w-cree-5-mode-circuit-board-for-flashlights-16-8mm-6-3mm-26107

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/1-5v-4-2v-3w-cree-circuit-board-for-flashlights-16-7mm-5-6mm-25505

 

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