Just got my first two decent (non-local) flashlights thanks to people here.
I got the TrustFire TR-3T6 and the Small Sun ZY-T08, both from FastTech… and both from order to arrival here in Canada in 11 days - pretty good, I thought… (I ordered an Ultrafire C8 from Lightmalls at the same time and they haven’t even sent me a confirmation email or anything yet - with their holidays and all, though FastTech has similar holidays)
Ok, the TR-3T6 - comes in 5 parts - the head, the part that attaches to the head, two smaller sections, and the tail cap. The section that attaches to the head is different on the head end, so it has to attach.
Without attaching either of the two smaller sections, one battery isn’t sufficiently long and two batteries are too long. So basically you have to attach one or both of the two smaller sections to use either two or three batteries.
Unless I’m missing something, (which is entirely possible…) what’s the point of having the two smaller sections? Why not just one section that you use two batteries without it and three with it…?
Also, on another note, since my batteries have now finished charging… The Small Sun seems pretty obviously brighter than the TrustFire. I got the Small Sun because I wanted a really bright one LED light, and the TrustFire because I wanted an even brighter light without going too high as far as cost. The Small Sun claims 635LM and the TrustFire claims 3800LM - you’d think that’d at least be noticeably brighter, no?
I know, the ZY-T08 is more of a spot, and the TR-3T6 is a bit floodier, as it seems to be generally with more than one LED… but the difference seems pretty obvious none the less. Even up close one a white wall, when the spot is similar in size, it seems both the spot and the rest of the light is brighter on the small sun.
The common alternative to 18650s are 16340s or CR123A's. These half sizes are there to accomodate that OR they're just being lazy and reusing another part from another torch with identical diameter that they manufacture, and can't be bothered manufacturing a different part.
I believe that the shorter piece is needed as an adaptor to accommodate the larger diameter of the head. This is not uncommon, as the battery tubes are mass produced, and are used in other models. It is cheaper, and easier to adapt pre-existing parts to one light than to make another part that is specific to only one product.
That’s what I was sort of referring to with the piece that attaches to the head being different on one end, so it must attach to the head.
The other two pieces that are not the tail piece have the same threads on each end, and you can physically put the flashlight together without either, or with one, or with both.
The two pieces in the picture Hill (thanks, Hill) posted, with the flashlight on the left, are: the piece just below the tail cap, and the piece to the left of the flashlight.
I think what Ramblings said (thanks, Ramblings) about either using different length batteries or them just being lazy since the mid-pieces are interchangeable sounds reasonable.
As far as I know, it is the only “official mod thread”… I made it, thought it would be better to have gather modifying info in one thread. Especially since my light did not have the “typical” “manafont” driver found in many lights.
The original review thread for the “first” popular light bought from manafont are here. The last pages have various modifying info.
Depending on how your driver looks, feel free to ask in any of the threads. But i would recommend to stick to the “review” thread if you have the typical manafont driver that have been discussed a lot there. If not, stick to the modifying thread.
Another mod thread started by millerman is here. I posted a few close up pics of my driver since it was different from the stock shown in RacerR86's thread. PilotPTK was kind enough to offer how to mod my driver's sense resistors (post #13) to increase the current to 2.8A per XML. I have the resistors on order from Digikey and will post the results after I solder them on.
I like that thread… The “real work bench” and the Frankenstein Black Thingy!
Unfortunately, it looks like my driver looks more like the pic posted by garrybunk - though I would certainly like to get rid of the annoying flashy modes. Frankly either Hi/Lo or just plain on(Hi) and off would be great. However, on mine you just see the green board where he has the white ring.
Also on mine there’s no chance that you can change modes by standing it on it’s tail, (on a flat surface) which I think you implied could happen with yours.
However, up until I started reading this forum a couple weeks ago, I didn’t even know flashlights had drivers, and even have little programs running in them. I think I’ve finally figured out what a pill is, but still not sure if I should flood or spill, or if I’m risking life and limb by putting 3 batteries in series… And I do have a bit of a collection from over the years, like my SunForce 7.5 million candle power… mostly all just junk now that I can get such power in such a small package. (not sure if/how candle power converts to lumens, though)
But I certainly appreciate that y’all are very friendly and helpful! (I was going to say “you guys” but certainly wouldn’t want to offend any females that might theoretically be out there!)
I have an old trj 3t6 and I forgot you can use 4x AAs in it. Any thoughts on using eneloops in it for a “foolproof” basic light? Will it strain the eneloops?
