Review: Small Sun ZY-T08 2x18650 XM-L T6 from Fasttech
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 00:24
Small Sun ZY-T08 (2x18650, XM-L T6)
Reviewer's Overall Rating: ★★★★☆
Reviewer's Mod Host Rating: ★★★★★
Summary:
| Battery: | 2x18650 |
| Switch: | Tail, Reverse-Clicky |
| Modes: | H 100%, M 50%, L 25%, Strobe, SOS, no memory (starts in High) |
| LED Type: | Cree XM-L T6 |
| Lens: | Standard Glass |
| Tailstands: | Yes |
| Price Paid: | $23.75 |
| From: | Fasttech |
| Date Ordered: | Feb 16, 2013, , shipped Feb 20, 2013, received Mar 1 2013. |
Pros:
- Nice format, comfortable to hold, secure grip
- Great heatsinking potential (see cons)
- Large pill, lots of room for emitter star and driver
- Excellent reflector, even though it is resin based
- Good Machining everywhere but tailcap
- Well centered emitter
- Nice 'L-shaped' lens gasket
- Good threads
- Excellent mod host
Cons:
- Star area of pill uneven, requires lapping/leveling to maximize heat transfer
- Emitter is under driven at 2.1A; however this somewhat matches the listed spec of 635 lumens (and easily fixed with a resistor mod)
- Poorly spaced modes; Med and Low are both too bright
- Visible PWM in Med and Low
- Slightly bulkier and longer than an HD2010
- Not compatible with flat top cells
- Some sloppy machining on shiny tailcap
- This side-by-side format would benefit from a side-clicky
Features / Value: ★★★★☆
Design / Build Quality: ★★★★☆
Battery Life: ★★★★★
Light Output: ★★★☆☆
Overview
Fasttech has had the Small Sun ZY-T08 listed for a while and I have had my eye on it for about that long. A few weeks ago I decided to order one. I kind of liked the idea of a light about the same size as an HD2010 with the added capacity of two 18650 cells. Now that I have the light I'm more impressed than disappointed. As a modder, I'm excited to do something big with this host.
Let's get started. The machining and finish on the body and head are excellent. No sharp edges and the large smooth surfaces show the smallest amount of machining if you look very close. The anodize is good, probably HA-II quality, with no dings or scratches when received.
The metallic plated aluminum tailcap piece is relatively poorly finished. It has rather obvious machining lines on most surfaces. The metallic finish makes these even more obvious.
Note: This macro shot exaggerates the severity of the machining marks and is not the level of detail you would see with the naked eye. However, they are noticeable even with a casual glance at the tailcap. Also, some (most) of those non-circular scratches are from my own use. I tend to tailstand lights on bricks, rocks, asphalt, whatever is convenient.
As a 2x18650 side-by-side light, the handling is quite good. It fits naturally in the hand. I expected the lanyard protrusions to dig into my hand, however they make the grip more secure without being uncomfortable. They also provide for a very secure cigar grip. The four groups of knurling on each side provide a small amount of additional grip.
The light comes apart between the body and the head. The threads are nicely cut, were adequately lubed (I added more anyway), nicely anodized (lockout capable), almost square cut, and large enough to stand up to lots of battery changing.
On the ends, you can see the battery tubes and the contact plate.
The battery tube is deep and the springs have a lot of travel. Protected and unprotected cells should work fine. Due to a small lip on the pill, flat top cells will not work. Also, there may be a shorting risk with wide flat tops because of the close proximity of the ground outer contact ring. The pill lip actually prevents this from occurring. My solution was a small solder blob on the positive end:
Digging deeper, we find the head components. This is a very nice head design. The pill is removed through the driver end. The emitter star was floating with a small amount of thermal compound. I replaced this with silver based thermal compound. The reflector holds the star down with the a good amount of pressure. A plastic emitter ring provides perfect centering every time.
Starting from the top, we have the Bezel, a nice L-shaped lens gasket (fits over the corner of the lens), a very thick uncoated glass lens, a very good resin based reflector, a large pill with emitter star and driver, and the head itself. The head has excellent heat fins and is quite heavy; a good thing for managing heat. There is a lot of threaded contact with the pill as well.
There was one issue with the pill; the emitter star surface is slightly raised in the center. The means the star only makes good contact on a very small area. Because of this, heat is not transferred well from the star to the pill. I sanded the pill down (often referred to as lapping) using incrementally higher grit sandpaper until the star sat flatly on the surface.
Note: If you intend to keep this light at the stock 2.1A drive level, the limited heat transfer should not be an issue. If you intend to increase the drive current to or above 3 Amps, you should consider verifying and/or improving the star to pill thermal contact.
On the other end of the pill sits the driver. Here we have a mixed bag of things to consider. On the plus side, the contact surface is nicely plated and seems thick enough to handle lots of cell loading and unloading. The driver is press-fit into the pill and seems to make good electrical contact between the ground ring and the aluminum pill.
The driver has two unfortunate functional issues; poor mode spacing and visible PWM in Med and Low. I can live with the PWM as I'm not that sensitive to it. However, the mode spacing is visibly so close I sometimes second-guess if the mode really changed. If you only plan to use high, this will not be an issue.
On the other side of the driver are the components. The driver is MOSFET based and uses current sense resistors to set the drive level. This makes it resistor mod compatible.
On the other end we find the body tube and tail cap. The tailcap is attached with four small hex screws. Underneath we have a rubber weather sealing gasket, and the switch PCB.
The switch boot is retained with a removable metal ring. The switch PCB is retained with two screws, which also provide the negative electrical connection to the body.
Here is a close-up of the negative contact springs, showing the copper braid mod (standard procedure for all of my lights). Adding copper braid (alternatively, soft stranded copper wire) reduces overall curcuit resistance, improves efficiency, and increases run time at full output.
Since I bought this light to compare to the HD2010, let's do that now. The ZY-T08 is a little bulkier and longer than the HD2010:
From the front:
And the back:
Even with the size increase, I find my self reaching for the ZY-T08 more than the HD2010.
Beamshots
Here are some white wall beamshots, 1m distance, high, med, and low. The hot spot is well defined with a typical XM-L corona. there are very minor thin rings at about 1/3 diameter, only noticeable on a white wall. They appear a bit dim on here, however they should be good enough for a relative comparison.
Camera settings the same for all three; 1/20s, f/8, ISO100.
High:
Med:
Low:
Measurements
Dimensions:
- Overall Length: 173mm
- Bezel Diameter: 62.7mm
- Head Heat Sink Diameter: 64.5mm
- Neck Heat Sink Diameter: 50.6mm
- Body Diameter: 40.8mm x 23.7mm
- Tail Diameter: 42.1mm
- Reflector Inner Diameter: 52.5mm
- Reflector Outer Diameter: 57.7mm
- Reflector Depth: 38.5mm
- Reflector Emitter hole Diameter: 10.1mm
- Lens Diameter: 57.5mm
- Lens Thickness: 3.0mm
- Emitter star diameter: 25mm
- Driver diameter: 30.1mm
- Pill inner diameter: 27.9mm
- Pill inner depth: 24.1mm
- Pill outer diameter at threads: 31.7mm
- Pill outer diameter before threads: 33.1mm
- Pill outer diameter at driver flange: 34.0mm
- Head inner diameter at pill threads: 31.1mm
- Head inner diameter before threads: 34.4mm
Weights (without batteries):
- Overall: 322g
- Head: 206g
- Body Tube/Tailcap: 116g
Performance (stock, 4.2V supply):
- Light Output: ~600 lumens
- Beam Intensity: ~48kcd
Power Source Options: 2x18650 (recommended) or 1x18650, unprotected or protected cells, raised positive caps required.
Switch type: tailcap, reverse-clicky
Modes: High (2.1A), Medium (1.06A), Low (0.58A), Strobe, SOS
Mode Memory: None, times out in about six seconds
Conclusions
The Small Sun ZY-T08 is a very nice light. I has a nice finish (except for tailcap), decent output (better after a resistor mod, see first comment below), handles well, and the price was right.
Relic Recommended, especially for flashlight modders.
Thanks for reading! searchID8934
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 00:45
#2
Nice review, thanks!
Nice review, thanks!
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 00:59
#3
Great review relic! As with
Great review relic! As with many of your flashlights, I bet that sense resistor is in fear of its life.
Which one do you like more… this or the ZY-T13? Ive read that they share the same reflector.
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 01:05
#4
Thanks for the review. What
Thanks for the review. What other mods other than the resistor would you consider doing?
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 01:10
#5
This may come as a shock, but
This may come as a shock, but I do not own the T13. Based on the styles, and hearing the same thing you did, I went with the T08. If you have one of either, getting the other would be to collect (perfectly valid reason 
), or to check out the other format.
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 01:15
#6
My major mod is a surprise,
My major mod is a surprise, parts are ordered.
I would recommend XM-L2 on copper. This light really can handle heat well. I think 4A is a minimum drive level.
Sourcing a coated lens would be nice too.
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 01:19
#7
If the crelant head fit on
If the crelant head fit on this, it would have been a no brainer for me. This host looks like it would handle the heat a lot better
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 01:29
#8
I think he also added copper
I think he also added copper braid on the tail spring.
Thanks Relic for the review! Any noticeable change after adding the copper braid?
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 17:46
#9
Adding copper to the springs
Adding copper braid (alternative is soft stranded copper wire) to the springs brought the voltage drop way down. Before was 240mV drop across spring and switch. After, 48mV. That’s an extra 200mV for the driver to remain in regulation. On many popular batteries, that could be an extra 20 minutes of runtime at full output.
Edit: Almost forgot to mention the efficiency improvement with this mod. Small (maybe 3-5%) but every little bit counts.
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 01:43
#10
Thanks Relic!
Thanks Relic!
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 03:30
#11
Excellent review AND terrific
Excellent review AND terrific photos. You got it all, relicc38 
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 05:13
#12
Great review relic. As an
Great review relic. As an aside. The lanyard lgs allow an excellent secure cigar grip. I think this light really wants a copper slug pressing in to mount a 4 – 5a driver then use the original as a contact board.
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 06:29
#13
relic38 wrote:Adding copper
Adding copper to the springs brought the voltage drop way down. Before was 240mV drop across spring and switch. After, 48mV. That’s an extra 200mV for the driver to remain in regulation. On many popular batteries, that could be an extra 20 minutes of runtime at full output.
Relic38,
I have one of these arriving this week (hopefully).
Would you mind explaining or posting link to what “Adding copper to the springs” means.
Thanks for your time.
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 07:06
#14
At that price, if Small Sun
At that price, if Small Sun fixes the improperly machined surface that the LED star attaches to, this will be a really nice host! Since the switch is mechanical, there are MANY driver options if this one isn’t preferred.
relic: Thank you for the great review! Because of you, I’m now considering one of these 
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 07:40
#15
rexdog wrote:relic38
Adding copper to the springs brought the voltage drop way down. Before was 240mV drop across spring and switch. After, 48mV. That’s an extra 200mV for the driver to remain in regulation. On many popular batteries, that could be an extra 20 minutes of runtime at full output.
Relic38,
I have one of these arriving this week (hopefully).
Would you mind explaining or posting link to what “Adding copper to the springs” means.
Thanks for your time.
By copper, I mean copper braid or soft copper wire. Take a close look at the pixture of the board with two springs on it. You will see copper braid running down the center of each spring. It is soldered on each end to the spring. This greatly reduces the electrical resistance of the springs which improves run time with full output and overall efficiency.
I’ll clarify the wording in the review and consider doing a quick how-to guide post on this.
Thanks!
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 09:03
#16
Nice review sir! You make it
Nice review sir! You make it hard to keep resisting this light.
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 10:43
#17
Nice review! Got mine Friday
Nice review! Got mine Friday from FastTech, got all the parts to mod it. Been working on it - same idea as you. Using a Nanjg custom programmed at 4.2A, using the original driver board as a contact board, stripped, and XM-L2 U2 1C on a sinkPAD w/copper disc under the SinkPAD. Hoping to finish it late today if all goes well. Been taking photos, I could post here in this thread if you don't mind.
My measured stock #'s on 2 fresh Panasonic 3100's, unprotected:
- stock lens, 2.1A, 656 @start, 639 @30 secs
- with UCL/p lens: 673 @start, 653 @30 secs, 48 kcd throw
The UCL/p lens I had was an extra, using the same size in a HD 2010.
Tip - I am definitely getting better results with low resistance batteries for XM-L2/SinkPAD's. The Samsung INR's do slightly better than Panasonic PD's or AW IMR's. Using 2 Samsung INR's and 1 Pana PD in my 7G9 w/XM-L2 SinkPAD, I actually got 4.2A measured, more lumens, more throw.
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 12:08
#18
Hi Tom E, nice to see our
Hi Tom E, nice to see our stock numbers match quite well. The XM-L2 mod should give impressive throw numbers, looking forward to seeing what you get.
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 12:54
#19
Great review! Looking forward
Great review! Looking forward to your mods!
-Garry
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 16:32
#20
Numbers are in...
Numbers are in... Ready?
1,302 lumens at start, 1,281 lumens at 30 secs, 94 kcd -- 2 Pana PD's from FT (no tailcap spring mods, but added a magnet on each batt neg end, and dab of solder on the pos end to get contact - tops are pretty flat)
Oh - didn't give the batts time to fully charge, though probably close.
Some issues with the lens/reflector/emitter but got a working solution. This is because of the thinner UCL/p, adding the copper disc soldered under the SinkPAD, and biggest issue: oh boy -- going from a 25mm star to a 20mm star put the wires closer and interfering with the reflector seating down on the plastic emitter alignment piece. Crappy plastic reflector extends out too far. If only I could have miraculuously recessed the wire/solder points on the SinkPAD... Sort of jury rigged a working fix, but its ugly - afraind to open here up for pics though....
I'll be re-charging 2 Pana 3100's and the Pana PD 2900's to re-test, maybe slight improvement.
Running - 1 min: room temp basically, 2 min: 82 at hottest, 3 min: 83F hottest, 4min: 85F hottest warm to the touch, 5 min: 87F ... wow! This is one cool dude at 4.2A!
Updates:
- little more on fresh batts, both Pana 3100's and Pana PD 2900's got the same exact #'s for each set: 3.92A measured at tailcap (well, 2 batts held together, common neg) - 1,339 lumens at start, 1,315 lumens at 30 secs, still 94 kcd
- made the tailcap solder wick mods as OP (relic38 did (no more magnets on batteries)
- changed the button to GITD (allen head screws were loose originally as well)
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 17:00
#21
Great results Tom E! too bad
Great results Tom E! too bad about the reflector. I’ll have that issue too. I think there is extra material that can be ground off the base of the reflector to allow for wire clearance.
Edit, Update to go with Tom E’s update
Good stuff, looks like it is regulating then. The spring mod gives a lower resistance path to the regulators, so they can do their job for longer.
That’s a great result overall Tom E. I might need to see how I can 1-up that…
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 15:39
#22
nice light
maybe i missed it ….
are these batteries in series or parallel ?
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 15:51
#23
This model is
This model is parallel.
-Garry
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 16:04
#24
in series
are you going to mod it in series and put
a 3x XM-L module in it ????
this could be the smallest triple led light
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 16:25
#25
cat eyes wrote:are you going
are you going to mod it in series and put a 3x XM-L module in it ???? this could be the smallest triple led light
Well this light is about the same size as an HD 2010, weight I measured was identical, and you can get a triple HD 2010 but everyone says it's no good. Main point of this light with it's big reflector is throw w/good spill, so 1 LED is best for throw. Triples that can throw are huge (BTU shocker, etc.). Plus battery drain on triples kind of warrants more batteries, so also back to bigger.
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 17:02
#26
relic38
Reserved
beamshots pending…
beamshots pending…
Hey, don’t get mad for Replying to this. The reason, if someone please by the clone, and review it, we might know which is the best — the clone or the anti-clone 
http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-Ultrafire-Sg-t08-Cree-Xml-T6-5-Modes-D…
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 17:18
#27
I think that is a rebrand,
I think that is a rebrand, not a clone. The driver looks exactly identical. I can’t say the innards are the same, but I would not be surprised if these lights are one in the same, different name.
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 17:30
#28
Agreed, even tge lanyard
Agreed, even tge lanyard looks the same.
I’m harbouring a plan of getting a hunk of copper, getting my dad to machine it to a press fit in the pill to carry both this driver and a direct bonded xm-l2 then use tge original driver as a contact board.
I have no sinkpads so I have to do it the hard way…
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 17:41
#29
gords1001 wrote:Agreed, even
Agreed, even tge lanyard looks the same.
I’m harbouring a plan of getting a hunk of copper, getting my dad to machine it to a press fit in the pill to carry both this driver and a direct bonded xm-l2 then use tge original driver as a contact board.
I have no sinkpads so I have to do it the hard way…
Looks good. Take that driver, replace all wire with 18 gauge, direct solder to contact board. Do the spring mod, and you should get 5A on fresh cells. Not sure for how long, but with a huge chunk o copper to work with, heat would not be an issue.
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 18:21
#30
Another option apears to have
Another option apears to have presented itself…
What was needed for a sink pad? I’m still using that driver, I figure it’ll give 4.5a ish given my experience of the 4a version.
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 19:33
#31
pill diameter
Hi relic, thanks for the detailed review. What is the diameter of the threaded part of the pill please?
Woody
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 19:48
#32
Additional Pill and Head Dimensions
Hi relic, thanks for the detailed review. What is the diameter of the threaded part of the pill please?
Woody
- Pill Outer Diameter at threads: 31.7mm
- Pill Outer Diameter before threads: 33.1mm
- Pill Outer Diameter at driver flange: 34.0mm
- Head inner diameter at pill threads: 31.1mm
- Head inner Diameter before threads: 34.4mm
Info added to review as well. Thanks!
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 20:06
#33
Thanks relic, I was worried
Thanks relic, I was worried that you might think I was taking the p1$$, as you had already provided so many other dimensions!
Woody
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 20:23
#34
Indoor Beamshots added
I’ve added some indoor beamshots to the review. They appear darker on here, maybe a Photobucket effect. I might have to reshoot them brighter than I see to adjust.
Sun, 03/10/2013 - 22:37
#35
Thanks for the great review.
Thanks for the great review. I’ve been debating which one to get the HD2010 or this ZY-T08, but now I think it’s this one. I didn’t know they were so cheap at Fastech. thx
Mon, 03/11/2013 - 11:13
#36
Thanks very much for the
Thanks very much for the review! Frontpage’d and Sticky’d.
Mon, 03/11/2013 - 17:59
#37
relic38 wrote:By copper, I
By copper, I mean copper braid or soft copper wire.
Great review relic! What size braid is that?
Tue, 03/12/2013 - 00:31
#38
Zeus33 wrote:relic38 wrote:By
By copper, I mean copper braid or soft copper wire.
Great review relic! What size braid is that?
I have Soder-Wick #3, which measures in at 1.9mm wide. It carries oodles of current. I tested 5 inches of it once at 6A and it registered 18mV IIRC.
I’ve heard that Goot Wick is not as good, it might not be pure copper. I do not have that to try.
Soder-Wick is more expensive but works very well for ‘fixing’ springs, and its intended purpose.
Edit: I get my Soder-Wick from Digi-Key.
Tue, 03/12/2013 - 01:09
#40
That looks good, says pure
That looks good, says pure copper too. The width is fine, too thick might be cumbersome to fit in the smaller springs.
Tue, 03/12/2013 - 01:23
#41
Great! Thx.
Great! Thx.
Tue, 03/12/2013 - 04:37
#42
Tom,
Is that 94k Lux with
Tom,
Is that 94k Lux with the xml2 domed or dedomed?
This forum is getting expensive
Chris
Tue, 03/12/2013 - 05:03
#43
It's nearly here
Thank you Relic.
A how-to would be tops!
Great review and back-up info. Legend.
Adding copper to the springs brought the voltage drop way down. Before was 240mV drop across spring and switch. After, 48mV. That’s an extra 200mV for the driver to remain in regulation. On many popular batteries, that could be an extra 20 minutes of runtime at full output.
Relic38,
I have one of these arriving this week (hopefully).
Would you mind explaining or posting link to what “Adding copper to the springs” means.
Thanks for your time.
By copper, I mean copper braid or soft copper wire. Take a close look at the pixture of the board with two springs on it. You will see copper braid running down the center of each spring. It is soldered on each end to the spring. This greatly reduces the electrical resistance of the springs which improves run time with full output and overall efficiency.
I’ll clarify the wording in the review and consider doing a quick how-to guide post on this.
Thanks!
Wed, 03/13/2013 - 21:29
#44
New #'s on my mod'ed T08. My
New #'s on my mod'ed T08. My mod'ed ZY-T08 w/XM-L2 U2 SinkPAD, Nanjg @4.2A lost a 7135 somehow - maybe it never worked day one I'm think'n. Anyway, added another 7135, with the 2 Pana PD batts, measured 4.27A now, and measured output:
lumens - 1,395 @start, 1,366 @30 secs
throw: 100 kcd (broke the 100k barrier)
I did a lot of experimenting/testing with the AW IMR, Sanyo 2600's, Panasonic PD 2900's, and Samsung INR 1500's. Those Panasonic PD's from FT are outstanding for single cell or parallel cell XM-L2/SinkPAD's. A little better are the Samsung INR's - only got 2 from FT dirt cheap (pulled from a battery pack) @1500 mah. Ordered 3 more Samsung INR's at higher capacity off of eBay, and think I'll order more Pana PD's from FT -- excellent in the 7G9 and T08, plus my single cell mod'ed XinTD, UF C8, and UF-V3. The 7G9 did 125 kcd w/the 2 Samsung INR's and 1 Pana PD -- best #'s ever. The AW IMR does well but these batteries beat it. The Sanyo 2600's were a dissapointment, couldn't compete at all. Looked like marginally better than straight Panasonic 3100 and 3400 unprotected.
Important Issue: my FT T08 has a pretty poor loose pill - loosest threading I've ever seen in a flashlight, period. I looked at it a bit closer tonight, and it seems to barely grab the host threading. When it's fully screwed in and almost tightened up, it still has a bad wobble to it. Put thermal grease on the threads, doesn't really spread - again, worse I've seen, usually a little grease spreads through all the threads. Has anyone else seen this? Wonder if just a bad unit or bad batch. I loaded up the threads now with grease, hoping it will help. Tried copper tape, but couldn't get it to hang in there.
Wed, 03/13/2013 - 21:54
#45
Tom E wrote:Important Issue:
Important Issue: my FT T08 has a pretty poor loose pill – loosest threading I’ve ever seen in a flashlight, period. I looked at it a bit closer tonight, and it seems to barely grab the host threading. When it’s fully screwed in and almost tightened up, it still has a bad wobble to it. Put thermal grease on the threads, doesn’t really spread – again, worse I’ve seen, usually a little grease spreads through all the threads. Has anyone else seen this? Wonder if just a bad unit or bad batch. I loaded up the threads now with grease, hoping it will help. Tried copper tape, but couldn’t get it to hang in there.
Hmm, I didn’t notice that until I just tired it. While screwing in the pill it is quite wobbly. there is quite a bit of space there. Once it tightens down, there seems to be good contact. I also put thermal compound on the threads right away, which may be whay I didnt notice it the first few times. Mine does spread the compound around, so maybe yours is worst than mine? Since you are getting real good thermal transfer (shown in the very good thermal sag results) I am not sure the impact is significant.
Maybe run a 5 minute test and see how it drops out. I suppose some dropout could be battery sage at that duration. Probably would need to run from a power supply…
Thu, 03/14/2013 - 07:24
#46
Tom E wrote: New #'s on my
New #'s on my mod'ed T08.
lumens - 1,395 @start, 1,366 @30 secs
throw: 100 kcd (broke the 100k barrier)
Good results! Tom E did you also dedome the led or numbers are still with dome on?
Thu, 03/14/2013 - 07:37
#47
jamio wrote:Tom E wrote: New
New #'s on my mod'ed T08.
lumens - 1,395 @start, 1,366 @30 secs
throw: 100 kcd (broke the 100k barrier)
Good results! Tom E did you also dedome the led or numbers are still with dome on?
Still with the dome on - XM-L2 U2 1C, ordered way back when IS had them. Haven't done any dedoming yet, but want to experiment with XML's first. Not sure how the XM-L2's do dedomed - wonder if you get double throw like the XML's if done right. Also, the SinkPAD is soldered (reflowed) to a 3/4" 18 gauge copper disc - using a UCL/p lens that is about 1mm thinner than stock, so took advantage of the extra vertical clearance.
Thu, 03/14/2013 - 09:09
#48
..
Really great results with domed led.
If I remember good viffer750 had 110k with dedomed xml and 3.3amps, so if output would double with xm-l2, or almost double near 200k with dedoming, this would be awesome thrower for it's price.
Tom could you share link where did you get UCL/p lens?
Thu, 03/14/2013 - 18:22
#49
Oh - flashlightlens.com, but
Oh - flashlightlens.com, but they don't have the size in UCL glass, only UCL/p which is plastic. Same exact lens I used in the HD 2010 - they are the same sizes. It's the 54.0mm or 54.87mm must be 59.0 I'm thinking..., not sure, @work right now and flashlightlens.com doesn't seem to have order history.
Update: Definitely a 59.0mm UCL/p from flashlightlens.com. It is wider than stock, it fits, but the o-ring situated below it gave me some grief because it was formed in a shape to accomodate the smaller stock one, but if you crank it down, it works. I even used the extra space to reflow a copper disc under the SinkPAD - more copper can't hurt!
Thu, 03/14/2013 - 18:14
#50
Ive got a de domed IS xml2 t6
Ive got a de domed IS xml2 t6 5000k and its far far to warm – basically amber. (in a c8 at 4.2 amps DD)
The u2 1c de domed should be fine though. Ive got a couple coming, I think this light is close to perfection for what I need it for!
Chris
Reserved
beamshots pending…
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