Making Nichia 119 mcpcb - THE EASY WAY!

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RaceR86
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Making Nichia 119 mcpcb - THE EASY WAY!

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ImA4Wheelr
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Cool idea.

Normally, I would say that looks like a terrible emitter base because it appears to have no real heat disbursement layer extending out under the thermal pad. But, it looks perfect for what you converted it to. Big spread out copper layers going out from the emitter’s electrical contact points. Just guessing, but that should disburse the 700ma of heat from that emitter good enough.

RaceR86
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I borrowed this picture from FT. Its the underside of the Nichia 119 (for those who are not familiar with it)

If using these emitters in a single AA light and such I am sure a modified xp-g board will be more than good enough for the typically 300-500mA..

If upping the juice, one could just use a modified Noctigon , Id guess that would be better than a proper aluminium nichia 119 mcpcb.
Using a Noctigion would still be a dirt cheap combo with one of those emitters. Smile
High CRI copper mounted emitters for the win! Smile

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ohaya
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So, now we’re thinking of MCPCBs kind of like as “hosts” :)? Cool! This might be the start of something new!

Ouchyfoot
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I’m not sure, by looking at the pics, if im understanding this.

nitroz
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Ouchyfoot wrote:
I’m not sure, by looking at the pics, if im understanding this.

Me either?

relic38
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Nice! I have a few XP-G stars laying around that I could do this with. I’ll be adding a few 119’s to my next order. Wink

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RaceR86
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nitroz wrote:
Ouchyfoot wrote:
I’m not sure, by looking at the pics, if im understanding this.

Me either?

A “regular” mcpcb and emitter have 3 connection points to the emitter. Positive, heatsinking in the middle, and negative.
The Nichia 119 only have two larger connection points. Positive and negative. If you tried to put the Nichia 119 on a stock xp-g mcpcb both the positive and negative connection would be connected in the middle. Making a short circuit. In order to avoid that, I just used a Dremel and made two quick small cuts to lower the middle part.Thereby, no short circuit. Smile

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Don
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Wouldn't something like exhaust paint work? It'd be less destructive and it can easily take the heat from soldering.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

Ouchyfoot
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Okay, I think I get it. You gound down the heat sink pad in the middle so it doesn’t touch the bottom of the MCPCB. I wasn’t sure what the pic was showing me. I’d like to try this. I’d feel more secure if there was a non conductive film of some sort to be safe.
So, if this LED has no thermal pad, how does it transfer the heat? Also, what are these 119s rated at, current wise.

Boaz
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He cut a ditch ...Thermal goes thru the other two solder connections/ the contact to the heatsink.

 

 looks 100 times easier than two copper strips .

My guess is Dons engine paint  idea is next

       καὶ τὸ φῶς ἐν τῇ σκοτίᾳ φαίνει καὶ ἡ σκοτία αὐτὸ οὐ κατέλαβεν

                            

       Dc-fix diffuser film  >…  http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208

Boaz
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       καὶ τὸ φῶς ἐν τῇ σκοτίᾳ φαίνει καὶ ἡ σκοτία αὐτὸ οὐ κατέλαβεν

                            

       Dc-fix diffuser film  >…  http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208

THE_dAY
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Hi, new member here Smile

Can this mod also be done with copper sinkpad and 119?

RaceR86
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Should work just as nice there.
Ill try with a Noctigon some time.. Ill try a drop of fujick into the trace/traces that were cut.
Should improve heat transfer a tad, and also make it more short circuit proof. Ill assume it will handle the heat when re-flowing, not 100% sure though..

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THE_dAY
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I looked up the Noctigon seem to be same as the sinkpads.
This is good news as I still have a few 119 samples left and couldn’t find a good copper base.

Thanks RaceR86!

relic38
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I built up two today, using this method. I used an Xacto knife to scrape off the center pad, leaving behind the dielectric layer. Basically the same result, with a different method. To be honest, I was too lazy to go (20 steps) to the workshop and break out the Dremel Silly
I put one in a C3 that has been sitting around for a while waiting for a change. The result is a ringy high CRI beam. I think I need to adjust the emitter height, or swap the reflector (has an XM-L reflector right now).
The other went into a BBQBuy SK68 clone. The pill was solid, so the star has a good seat. The beam is near perfect, although the output is a little lower than the XP-E it replaced. The tint is waaaay better. It has a nice smooth flood with great color rendition.
I have three more 119 emitters on hand. I have some small hosts kicking around that might get a high CRI upgrade. Smile

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mattthemuppet
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bit of an old thread, but I was wondering what peoples views are on the tint with these 119s from FT? I’m thinking of building a cheap light bar for my garage/ workshop with a 3-5×1-2W 110V driver (any ideas on that front?) and these would be a great option.

They’d also work well for small closet lights too, another thing the wife has been bugging me about Smile

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Tints are subjective, but I really like the tint, its WW but not super warm. Its not that yellow/orange looking as the typical 3000K Cree emitters. Color rendering is good.
I like it. They are so cheap that you might as well just buy one and try out it, buy in quantity if you like them..

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relic38
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They are a quite nice tint, warm but not overly yellow. I have bought 10 so far (I get them five at a time) and have plans for them in flashlights and other projects.

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mattthemuppet
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sweet, thanks guys! I have a couple of WW XR-Es that are just too yellow for me, so knowing that these are not overly yellow is a big plus. I might as well get 5 and have a play Smile

mattthemuppet
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did the reflow last night after cutting out the centre thermal pad on my XP-G stars (10 for $1.xx from FT!) and it worked a dream. I could even grind off the copper trace but leave the dialectric layer intact. All 5 lit up fine, now I just have to make the light bar. Thanks RaceR86!

mattthemuppet
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coming from the giveaway thread (big props for that) – how did you get the pill out? I have an XP-G2 5B from FT coming that I wouldn’t mind sticking in the M5 that I have to try out. Do you press it out from the front/ lens?

RaceR86
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Glad to be of help mattthemuppet. Smile

The head on the M5 is a 2-piece design. Just unscrew the front of it to accesses the emitter. There is no pill making heat transfer very good. Pictures in this review done by djozz.

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mattthemuppet
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you know, I even read that review and still didn’t remember :oops:! Thanks for the reminder. Should make it an easy swap. Or I could just put a 119 in there like you did, as I have another 10 coming Smile Hopefully I’ll get time tonight to put the ones I already have on stars into their lights. I’m looking forward to checking out the tint, especially compared to the pus yellow XR-E I have in a work light.

mattthemuppet
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managed to complete my garage light build the other night and I’m really impressed with the Nichia 119. The ones I have are more NW than WW though, at least compared to the yucky WW XR-E (bletch) that was in my desk/work light and the CFL in there. I’ll have to compare it to the Nichia 219 and XM-L2 3C torches I have. Still, I’m very happy with them, so a big thanks for the star making tip!

As soon as I’ve glued on the LED-DNA optics (bought a bunch of 10, 25, 45 and 60deg ones for 34c each!) I’ll post a build thread.

Werner
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I have tested this method and it has superb thermal transfer…

Just glued copper shim on a piece of aluminium, under one side kapton tape then I soldered it on with a bit of flux and 400°C soldering iron not beautiful but it works good.
Can’t wait for my other emmitters to arrive…

RaceR86
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Nice werner.. Reminds me alot the more "fiddly way" I did here though..

What are you going to use it for?

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Werner
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Lol I first cut a piece of copper too but it was so soft it bend and then I looked around and saw this copper shim… was very fast to build as everything is self adhesive.

I plan to use it in my closet,I have a pir sensor light which will detect when I open the door to switch it on….

I have some ledstrips laying around but these are so ugly blue I wouldn’t find the right trousers….

RaceR86
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Smile

Cool..

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texaspyro
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I recently scored some Nichia 119’s… offered here for cheap: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/25759

ohaya
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I have some of the XP-G parallel triples from IS:

https://illuminationsupply.com/led-mcpcbs-c-52_43/20mm-triple-xpg-mcpcb-...

and wanted to confirm that the mod in the OP of this thread should work ok with those also, right?

Also, after gouging out the middle pads from the board, does reflow work “normally”, i.e., put some solder paste on each pad then heat up the board (with a small torch, in my case)?

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