C8 addicts thread

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tivo532
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Manual Man wrote:
The XM-L2 U2s finally arrived so I stuck one in direct drive in a C8:

Stock C8 (Ultrafire, XML on Alu board) was ~22K lux (700-750 lumen)

With XM-L2 U2 on copper:

Before de-dome was ~42K lux (1300-1400 lumen?) After de-dome is ~85K lux After de-dome without the front lens is ~95K lux

Current reading was ~3.5 amps but probably closer to 4 without the DMM… I will try compare lux readings with and without the MM.

Over 10% is lost due to the front lens alone, time to get some AR coated lenses (99% transmittance) for them I think as well as better switches (shorted the battery and got a puff of smoke from the one I was using)

Will stick up results for the C8 XP-G2 once I get around to piecing it together.


Manual,

When you say direct drive, meaning VBat+ on LED+ and VBat- on LED-?
and wow! 42K, 85K and 95K lux! Is that 1 meter to a Lux meter readings?

Beer

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Yip… other then the switch and contact board the battery is connected strait to the LED. Measurements were taken at 4.56m so multiplied by 20.8 to give lux @ 1m.

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I've gotten about 100 kcd on a full mod'ed C8 (XM-L2 U2 de-domed, Nanjg driver w/extra 7135's), and up to 142 kcd with a de-domed XP-G2.

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Did anyone noticed this:
UltraFire C8 SST-50
?

 

jmpaul320
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Tom E wrote:

I’ve gotten about 100 kcd on a full mod’ed C8 (XM-L2 U2 de-domed, Nanjg driver w/extra 7135’s), and up to 142 kcd with a de-domed XP-G2.

wow. u doing any custom work again? Smile

Would you mind keeping the wrong flashlight?
Best wish, May
Tmart service team

 

Soumil wrote:

PLEASE HELP ME GEARBEsT! IM LITERALLY CRYING!

 

Tom E
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jmpaul320 wrote:
Tom E wrote:

I've gotten about 100 kcd on a full mod'ed C8 (XM-L2 U2 de-domed, Nanjg driver w/extra 7135's), and up to 142 kcd with a de-domed XP-G2.

wow. u doing any custom work again? :)

I'm trying to catch up - still got a TN31 and 3 Shockers to do, not to mention so many of my own lights/projects... The magic #'s are at or close to 100 kcd for C8 class, and at or class to 200 kcd for HD2010/SS T08 class lights. It's been pretty consistent like this for the full set of mods -- maybe 95-100 or 190-210.

outersquare
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Sirius9 wrote:
Did anyone noticed this: UltraFire C8 SST-50 ?

I don’t think there’s any point to that esp considering the cost, the XML2 is brighter for any given drive current.

The LM XML2 U2 and xintd XML2 U2 are both brighter than my 6P with DD SST90.

jmpaul320
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Tom E wrote:

jmpaul320 wrote:
Tom E wrote:

I’ve gotten about 100 kcd on a full mod’ed C8 (XM-L2 U2 de-domed, Nanjg driver w/extra 7135’s), and up to 142 kcd with a de-domed XP-G2.

wow. u doing any custom work again? Smile

I’m trying to catch up – still got a TN31 and 3 Shockers to do, not to mention so many of my own lights/projects… The magic #‘s are at or close to 100 kcd for C8 class, and at or class to 200 kcd for HD2010/SS T08 class lights. It’s been pretty consistent like this for the full set of mods — maybe 95-100 or 190-210.

cool – thats fine i wont have money for about 3 weeks anyways hehe… that hd2010 200k mod sounds cool too

Would you mind keeping the wrong flashlight?
Best wish, May
Tmart service team

 

Soumil wrote:

PLEASE HELP ME GEARBEsT! IM LITERALLY CRYING!

 

Tom E
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Littte off topic, here's the last HD2010 I did, and I'm thinking, if this was a U2 1A from KD, these #'s could have been better with a real U2 1A or 1C. Wish I had tracked vendor sources of the LED's to the lights I built...

lumens: 1,149 at start, 1,125 at 30 secs, throw: 200 kcd (894 meters) — all on a fresh KK ICR 4000 cell

It just barely made 200 kcd measured at 4.3 meters, so may be 205-210 kcd if measured from a longer distance of 10-15 meters. I think it came out pretty well, really right there where I expected. The light’s body is clean and I like the look in black. Summary of mods:

- UCL/p lens

- XM-L2 U2 1A de-domed on a 20mm Noctigon copper star

- Nanjg 2.8A, added 4 7135’s to bring it up to 4.2A

- 3 copper discs of 18 gauge, 5/8” diameter added for heat sinking to the pill

- brass ring added for mounting the driver, press fit in, dremel’ed the pill to fit

- both + and – springs wired with copper to reduce resistance

- Nyogel on threads, special pricey thermal conductive grease used on pill threads

  • Please note the pill is intentionally loose – if it’s full tightened, the emitter sits too far out of the reflector, resulting in much lower #‘s. So if for whatever reason you need to take it apart in the future, count how many turns it takes to tighten the pill down, and re-seat it the same way. Though it’s not tightended down (screwed from the reflector side), the reflectorr sits on it very tightly — must keep the bezel tightened well, and with the expensive grease, both thermal and electrical conection to the pill is strong.

From the owner:

Tom, my flashlight came in on Friday but I didn’t get to play with it until sunday night when I got back home from vacationing with the family and man am I impressed! THIS THING IS INSANE! I think I told you before that I have an LED maglite, and I thought that thing had some power, NO SIR. This HD is FREAKING UNREAL! And talk about how great the flashlight looks just sitting there. Man I am blown away! I honestly didn’t expect this thing to be that powerful.

I played around with the modes and you were right; I really like them. The cycle through is cool with the half click, or if i cycle full clicks fast, but has memory to where if i let it sit for a while, itll stay on the last mode I had it on.

jmpaul320
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cool! pm sent about the hd2010

the only c8 i have right now is the supfire x5 which i swapped the emitter to a nice xml2 t4 80 cri.. it still has the stock driver which gets around 2.2-2.5 amps on high… dont think having a 3 amp driver would make a huge difference, but it would eliminate the strobe modes

been debating the new c8 v4 from intl outdoor for a while now

Would you mind keeping the wrong flashlight?
Best wish, May
Tmart service team

 

Soumil wrote:

PLEASE HELP ME GEARBEsT! IM LITERALLY CRYING!

 

Tom E
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jmpaul320 wrote:
cool! pm sent about the hd2010 the only c8 i have right now is the supfire x5 which i swapped the emitter to a nice xml2 t4 80 cri.. it still has the stock driver which gets around 2.2-2.5 amps on high... dont think having a 3 amp driver would make a huge difference, but it would eliminate the strobe modes been debating the new c8 v4 from intl outdoor for a while now

K - can't go wrong with a XinTD C8 v4 - I got one stock, and an older v2 mod'ed. The X5 I mod'ed was sold/traded, and actually I got a stock one - sitting, waiting for another mod...

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Tom E wrote:

jmpaul320 wrote:
cool! pm sent about the hd2010 the only c8 i have right now is the supfire x5 which i swapped the emitter to a nice xml2 t4 80 cri.. it still has the stock driver which gets around 2.2-2.5 amps on high… dont think having a 3 amp driver would make a huge difference, but it would eliminate the strobe modes been debating the new c8 v4 from intl outdoor for a while now

K – can’t go wrong with a XinTD C8 v4 – I got one stock, and an older v2 mod’ed. The X5 I mod’ed was sold/traded, and actually I got a stock one – sitting, waiting for another mod…

i just got the x3 today i think it needs a v4 c8 for a buddy lol.

Would you mind keeping the wrong flashlight?
Best wish, May
Tmart service team

 

Soumil wrote:

PLEASE HELP ME GEARBEsT! IM LITERALLY CRYING!

 

Tom E
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I got the X3 too, so it has twin brothers Smile. I'm really liking the warm tint of the 6A1, but I'm think'n it's a real nice little thrower as well, so want to beef it up - the kcd # was pretty impressive, considering it's a T3 on alum and at 3 amps.

jmpaul320
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Tom E wrote:

I got the X3 too, so it has twin brothers Smile. I’m really liking the warm tint of the 6A1, but I’m think’n it’s a real nice little thrower as well, so want to beef it up – the kcd # was pretty impressive, considering it’s a T3 on alum and at 3 amps.

i went with the cool white myself on the x3

i just ordered a c8 v4 with the t4 80 cri Smile

Would you mind keeping the wrong flashlight?
Best wish, May
Tmart service team

 

Soumil wrote:

PLEASE HELP ME GEARBEsT! IM LITERALLY CRYING!

 

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I’ve got to get me a hd2010 to play with……more to the point, I need to have a play with my light meter, want to see what my l2 is doing before I go full retard on it and its twin…….

I too got an x3 hi cri……mrs gords loves it as a bedside/spotting light, its the first one she’s taken an interest in, guess she’s a tint/hi cri snob, who knew? I’m now wanting to get “her” an xintd c8 v4 same driver/emitter as the x3, I’ve put it off for too long.

Worryingly, I have a supfire m6 inbound, I’m already looking at hi cri xp-g2’s on copper for it, I figure a doctor Jones driver and two 3.1a slaves to match should be good in there……I’ve not even got the damned light in my hands and I’m already modding it lol. And that’s ignoring the small pile of cheap lights I already have to mod, this place is a bad influence lol

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outersquare wrote:
Sirius9 wrote:
Did anyone noticed this: UltraFire C8 SST-50 ?

I don’t think there’s any point to that esp considering the cost, the XML2 is brighter for any given drive current.

The LM XML2 U2 and xintd XML2 U2 are both brighter than my 6P with DD SST90.


I know, i know, but still, it’s interesting to see C8 stuffed with SST-50 Smile
although SST-50 works better with 2 or 3 cells…

 

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I have on order one of those noctigon MTG2 on 20mm copper that I am going to swap into my worst C8. It should run off two IMRs, gonna try that.

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outersquare wrote:
I have on order one of those noctigon MTG2 on 20mm copper that I am going to swap into my worst C8. It should run off two IMRs, gonna try that.

Wow - that sounds awesome, but what you doing about the driver for the 6v output?

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gords1001 wrote:
I’ve got to get me a hd2010 to play with……more to the point, I need to have a play with my light meter, want to see what my l2 is doing before I go full retard on it and its twin…….

I too got an x3 hi cri……mrs gords loves it as a bedside/spotting light, its the first one she’s taken an interest in, guess she’s a tint/hi cri snob, who knew? I’m now wanting to get “her” an xintd c8 v4 same driver/emitter as the x3, I’ve put it off for too long.

Worryingly, I have a supfire m6 inbound, I’m already looking at hi cri xp-g2’s on copper for it, I figure a doctor Jones driver and two 3.1a slaves to match should be good in there……I’ve not even got the damned light in my hands and I’m already modding it lol. And that’s ignoring the small pile of cheap lights I already have to mod, this place is a bad influence lol

at least you have the skill to do all that yourself… i usually end up breaking everything i touch unless its a simple emitter swap

Would you mind keeping the wrong flashlight?
Best wish, May
Tmart service team

 

Soumil wrote:

PLEASE HELP ME GEARBEsT! IM LITERALLY CRYING!

 

gords1001
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me??? ? I’ll give it a go I guess, need to clear the mod bench before I start fron scratch.

I only got the light meter to do numbers with tom, it might be pointless lol

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Quote:
The body is a quality C8, but the non-standard pill is my pet peeve with it.

I’m in complete agreement with that sentiment, so much so that I do not plan to buy any more than the 4 I have bought so far.

Regards, TS

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     You sir are one of my suoer hero's , I hope to get to that stage soon Laughing

Lj

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Tom E wrote:

outersquare wrote:
I have on order one of those noctigon MTG2 on 20mm copper that I am going to swap into my worst C8. It should run off two IMRs, gonna try that.

Wow – that sounds awesome, but what you doing about the driver for the 6v output?

I’m just going to direct drive it to keep it simple. I’ve tried an MTG2 P60 DD before off 2× 16340 IMR so it should work. I’ll make another thread if the whole thing comes together.

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I made some measurements and calculations to get the total mating area between pill and housing of my C8, C12 and XinTD V3. Surprisingly, the C12 with it’s larger pill and more threads had the least! The narrower flange and sloppier threads are to blame. Keep in mind, the area actually making contact is going to be less because of the typical surface imperfections. The 2mm wide flange contact only left a 1mm wide mark on the C8 so, in reality, the C12 is better but with a TIM, the C8 wins. For comparision, I added a the approximate area of a 20mm star. The C8 and C12 are from DanceLite.

C8 _________ 220 mm²

C12 ________ 186 mm²

XinTD V3 ____ 262 mm²

20mm star ___ 250 mm²

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manxbuggy1 wrote:
It looks like this thread was started just in time for me to post my upcoming test on. Lol. I have several C8’s that I plan on testing next weekend. With the help of my brother I will be measuring tail cap amps, lumens, candela and beamshots of several different C8’s. I have the Xin TD V4 with XM-L2 T6, Lightmalls C8 with XM-L2 U2, Kaidomain C12 with XM-L2 U2( hopefully in by next weekend), Lightmalls C8 with XM-L U3, Lightmalls C8 with XM-L U2, Trustfire C8 with XM-L T6, Keygos K-E5 with XM-L T6 and a Dongrui All-920 with XP-EQ5. That raps up the stock lights. I also have an XM-L U3 on sinkpad driven at 3.85A, an XM-L2 T6 de-domed on sink pad driven at just over 4A These last two are fantastic builds by Tom E. I am crossing my fingers that the Kaidomain C8 comes in on time.

Looking forward to seeing your results! Smile

Mountain Electronics : batteries, Noctigon, and much more! What's new? 

tivo532
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Tom E wrote:

I’ve gotten about 100 kcd on a full mod’ed C8 (XM-L2 U2 de-domed, Nanjg driver w/extra 7135’s), and up to 142 kcd with a de-domed XP-G2.

Hi Tom.
Previously I was only getting 29kcd until I tried a different battery from a laptop pull. This is a CGR18650DA and getting around 40kcd on a XM-L2, 12×7135 and Nitro sink pad.
What value were you getting before de-doming the LED?
Both springs with wires (instead of braided wire). What other mods I can do in addition to de-doming to get close to 100kcd?
Beer

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Before de-doming, about 45 kcd, one as high as 50 kcd. I always use a UCL or high qual AR lens. So, you have a 4.2A Nanjg (assuming 350's) - are you measuring 4.2A at the tail? If not, you need a better, lower resistance cell. best is Samsung 20R, but a 20Q or Pana PD, or SONY 30A may achieve it or come close. When you are over 3 amps with a Nanjg driver for an XM-L2/copper, you need a low resistance cell.

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Hello folks, this thread is very informative, thank you all.

I have my parts list put together for my first (this in-depth) build and my first C8, I have a few questions. I am going to buy a convoy C8, from what I’ve gathered from this thread its about the best starting point without going up >200% in price. This is going to be a dedicated thrower that will be used sparingly an rarely turned on for very long at a time. My biggest concern is a good single mode driver I can stack 7135’s on.

I had planned to use this nanjg 105c but I’m concerned that I won’t be able to stack 7135’s on it since its non-PWM. Is that wrong? I see it uses 7135’s but I read over at CPF that stacking chips only effects the PWM levels. If that’s correct can someone recommend a single mode driver that’s either ~3.4A (what I want it to run at) or less that I can stack on. If there is a good 3.4A single mode driver I’d rather just do that to save on the tiny component soldering.

This is my parts list, does it look like everything I need?
From FT (Sku)
Convo C8 SMO ( 1272100)
Bare 7135 chips (1197600) ( if the exact driver I want can’t be bought)

From IO
Warm white XM-L2 on 16mm Noctigon
nanjg 105c single mode
42mm UCL glass
20mm PCB mounted forward clicky

Other crap
22AWG leads
AS
copper braid (for springs)
Copper slug to fill pill
Black switch boot- What size does the C8 use?

Tom E
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You can stack 7135's on that driver, no problem. 7135's act as current limiters. For example, if you add 3 350 7135's to bring the total to 3.85A, then 3.85A is the max limit but does not guarantee you will be at 3.85A, you could get less because of voltage drops from resistance, resulting in less amperage. No idea what they could have meant about stacking chips only effect PWM's -- maybe one particular, weird driver? PWM's I suppose you could say are effected because all modes are effected: Hi, Med, lo, etc... Hi usually has no PWM's - PWM's are there as a cheap (digital) way to implement medium, low, moonlight modes.

For that fwd clicky, not sure how you would go about mounting/fitting that - dunno, maybe you researched that already. By UCL, you mean AR lens I assume - only place I know of to buy a "UCL" lens is from flashlightlens.com for a bit more $$$.

By AS, we usually use AS5 (Arctice Silver 5), generally thought to be the best for the cost. Also, I always use Nyogel (here) on the threads with o-rings - I swear sometimes it even boosts output, but not sure, but never seen it hinder output either. You may be able to find it somewhere cheaper, dunno.

For that choice of LED's, I assume you are aware you will get significantly less lumens, but get a nice warm white tint (T3 vs U2 bins, 4 bins separation).

The list is impressive!

 

Oh Note: Those 1 mode drivers are funny - no micro, no low battery warning or auto shutdown, just 7135's on a board basically. For $4.15 cost, while from FastTech, I've bought dozens of these: amc7135-2-group-25-modes for $2.68 at qty 5, and then program them myself with any modes I want.

One More Note: You could buy the Convoy C8 as a host, but you'd have to buy an SMO reflector separately, still little cheaper though.

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Tom E wrote:
Those 1 mode drivers are funny – no micro, no low battery warning or auto shutdown, just 7135’s on a board basically. For $4.15 cost, while from FastTech, I’ve bought dozens of these: amc7135-2-group-25-modes for $2.68 at qty 5, and then program them myself with any modes I want.

One More Note: You could buy the Convoy C8 as a host, but you’d have to buy an SMO reflector separately, still little cheaper though.


Hey thank you sir, I didnt know the SMO reflector was avaliable, I originally looked at the host only but wanted SMO, I’ll search for it now and go that route. I would prefer to use one of those drivers you linked but I didnt think you could make them single mode only, can you? As far as the switch, I hope its right, I found it from a thread linked earlier in this thread, even if it won’t work on the PCB I should still be able to use the forward clicky and I actually needed one of those 20mm PCB’s a few weeks ago so it’ll be a welcome addition to the spare parts bin, those boards are relitively hard to come by when you need one.

As for the lower lumens with the warm white T3, I always prefer the <4000k tints, I have T3 XM-L’s I’ve swapped into a few lights and I love warm (or at the very least neutral) tints more than I care about the slight increase from a cool white emitter.

On a releated note where can I find XP-E2’s?

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