I already have a XM-L drop-in but it's underdriven (probably to avoid heatsink problem). It works at 1.5A.
Now i want a more powerful drop-in so i was looking the MF Ultrafire XM-L drop-in (this). The alternative is change the original driver with this
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=10995
What do you think? Which is the best solution? I can obtain the same result of the UF drop-in changing the driver?
Thanks
If you're happy with the tint of your underdriven XM-L, get a new driver. If you're not crazy about it, you can roll the dice again and hope for something better from Manafont.
I just built a C2 with an XML and that driver and it's not as bright as my manafont drop ins.
It only pulls 2.8 amps (about 2.5 to the emmiter) were the manafont drop ins pull around 3.3 (about 3 to the emmiter). That would be a great drop in for a 501A with the single 16340 it would be perfect.
http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/ultrafire-wf501a-flashlight-tub...
YES...Mod it ..anyone can buy it .. tint was a good question ..also do you like an underdriven xml ??obviously not .. the driver you install will be a better selection of low as well.. so yeah mod it is easier way to get what you want .
Good point, Boaz. Other advantage to the KD driver is the PWM isn't noticeable at all, whereas you can see it on the Manfont. Also I like the modes L-M-H as on the KD driver instead of H-M-L on the Manafont.
Beyond 2.8A i hardly see significant gains. KD driver for sure, more runtime also not to mention constant brighthness more than 3/4 of the runtime and option to not or to have strobes at will.
I am sorry you are correct I was thinking about the loss due to heat at the driver before it gets to the emmiter could be measured as amps when the correct measurement is watts or V*I.
Especially when they remind you that you are so old you are loosing your mind
Ok, seems that people chose MOD!
The tint of the XM-L is a little greenish around the central spot but from beamshot i see is almost common. Or not?
All of mine are faintly greenish, but not objectionably so. This will likely improve as Cree improves the production processes.
I'm not a tint snob but like Ted says, it's been a crap shoot for me with the Ultra Fire XM-L drop-ins from Manafont. I have five of them and am very happy with the output but there is significant variation; one will look slightly green and the next ones comes and suddenly the old one looks very green. I have a U2 coming soon so . . . .
wewillseeFoy
Variables , variables ...
Driver efficiency , Current to driver , current from driver to LED [ the difference can be described as drver efficiency or driver loss ]
Just because you see 3A+ on the battery , does not mean cF will be the same [ cF current forward of driver = to LED ] , it all depends on the driver efficiency ..
So if you compare two different drivers [ one being efficient , and the other horribly inefficient ] . Then the inefficient one may look better from tail readings when compared to the more efficient one .. You need more than just tail readings for current , light output would also help ...
So if one light pulls 2.5A at the tail , and the other pulls 3.3A , but when put in a light box to measure output , they both produce nearly identical results ?
Which one would you prefer ?
Obviously the one that is cheaper, this is the budget light forum after all.
Seems like a lot of these are direct drive on High, so the variation in draw may be based more on the Vf of the individual LED's than anything else. I think with an IMR battery in there these things might draw 4 amps. I don't know that there are any inductors or regulators on the driver boards, at least on some of the ones I've seen, like this one from a MC-E driver:
Which looks *exactly* the same as one from a XR-E R2 driver:
But one of these pulls over 2 amps and the other pulls more like 1 amp. I think it could just be the LED is pulling what it wants. However, the component labeled Q1 might be some kind of current regulator. The diodes, capacitors, and resistors aren't going to do any of that.
I was thiking I might add another AMC7135 to that KD driver on my next XM-L build, is the consensus that it's probably not worth it?