Does anyone have information or recommendation about moding SR95S UT?
I am thinking can I make SR95S UT another beast. At this moment, below are my ideas:
1.Drive SBT-70 harder? I haven’t measure stock LED current yet. If I go this path, should I get a new driver or mod existing driver.
2.Put a XML2 U2 in there and drive it hard. But I have no idea what I can achieve.
3.Put a MT-G2 in there and drive it hard. It won’t be a thrower, but might become great flooder and decent thrower.
Man you have more guts than me. I wouldnt mod a light that expensive lol.
Olight lights are easier to mod as they don’t apply glue and easy to disassemble. If not happy with end result, it can always be restored except destructive mod.
I would like to know too. I have a SBT70 in my SR90. Mounted on a thick copper pill by Vinh. It does 325K now. But like you, I was wondering if the driver could be bumped up. jmpaul says his Varapower SBT90 light is driven over 14A. If either of our SBT70 lights could be bumped from appx 9A stock up to that 14A - that would make our lights even more beastly. THAT would be really cool.
After reading posts, I am thinking can I just do MT-G2 without any driver? Because olight battery is 8.4V after full charge, it should over drive MT-G2 up to 6A at this voltage.
Let me measure stock LED current, and see whether I can mod original driver to have higher current. But I don’t know can the stock toroid or components take higher current and not overheat too much.
After reading djozz crash test on MT-G2, I am more incline to do a MT-G2 now.
If wires and battery pack internal resistance is high, say 0.1ohm to 0.2ohm, 7A will be having voltage drop of 0.7v to 1.4v.
So voltage will sag about 7.7v to 7v initially seen by LED. Unfortunately LED current will be in range from 6.5A to 14A.
Really need to get the resistance right, around 0.2ohm seems to be best.
Finally have free time to measure the resistance for the battery pack. It is about 92mOhm measured at 3A. That seems too low to take the risk. 
Hi, just to update what I did last night. At the end, I decided to put a XM-L2 dedomed in this light after seeing so many people getting 500kcd with TN31 mod. Spent 4.5 hours to solder and test, really slow modder I am. And burnt my skin with solder iron again. Scars are good for memory of old days of modding?
Below is the test result. Current to LED measured with clamp meter is 5.3A. I also measure forward voltage of LED. I am really impressed with XM-L2 U2 performance and endurance. But this mod can’t reach 500kcd yet. In future, might mod it again to drive it at higher current and put in a U3 if available. Now I will have fun and experience with this flashlight first :bigsmile: . Regarding throw, measured at 6m and 7m shows about same candela of 470kcd. It is so bright and now I can see farther distance, definitely very clear difference compare to 260kcd I used to see.
OTF Lumens:
High: 1231 lm
Med: 830 lm
Low: 107 lm
Candela:
High: 475 kcd
Med: 323 kcd
Forward Voltage and LED Current:
High: 3.7464 V
Med: 3.423 V
Low: 2.8 V
High: 5.3A
Med: 3.106A
Low: 0.368A
That's impressive throw! The lumens seems a bit low for 5.3A at the emitter, not sure - wonder if it's spill is tighter than a TN31.
I am wild guessing LED lumens might be 1500lm, what I posted are OTF lumens that I referenced to TK70 2200 lumens.
I haven’t compared to my TN31 yet.
Result in picture format:
OTF Lumens:
Candela:
Vf and LED Current:
i have a SR90 and thought about a mod, but because of its cost i left it stock for now.
I have the same thinking, that is why I don’t mod most of my light. Beside cost, I also look at size and potential performance gain after mod either.
I try to estimate efficiency of this flashlight but found that LOW mode is far away from calculation. Wonder could it be due to dedome. I estimated two losses due to reflector, lens, bezel and dedome. For 25% loss and 20% loss, LOW mode efficiency is really low as marked in red. CREE data I used is at 85 degree Celsius at 3A and 0.4A.
The big Olights are moddable to get more output, but to risk damage to $ 300 + lights, - is it worth it to a light that already throws very good with good run time balance ?
I am gonna buy a Trustfire X6 and mod it, but not a SR95S UT. My heart is not as strong as yours.
DenBarrettSAR, the mod can be reversed if done carefully. Well you are right there is risk to mod expensive light. So far my mod is not destructive mod and is reversible.
bibihang, you will not be disappointed with X6 mod. Just change SST90 to XM-L2 U2, you get a serious thrower with high OTF lumens. Forget about driver mod or SST90 dedome as those are not as good as XM-L2 mod.
Dengoh,
If your results are correct you have furthest throwing reflector LED light in a world. Congratulations!
Very interesting that some guys are getting lux readings from 200-260 for this Olight SR95S-UT. Lux meters calibration vary even from unit to unit.
I measured 240KCD(7m converted) for my friends one.
I know that my small NightmasterV2 now with tuned XP-G2(240kcd) kills stock Olight SR95S-UT in throw. Side by side comparison unanimous decision by more than 20 people.
Higher output lights(especially reflector lights) should be measured at greater distances from 100-200 meters.
Reflector spreads hotspot over larger distances while aspheric keeps up to concentrate hotspot better.
It also has sharp borders without any spill sou you can see further in the night.
Better choice for lumen addicts(with excellent throw) will be Olight of course. I don’t want to mix apples and oranges in same basket.
Measured stock driver current to SBT-70 to be about 9.4A. Not knowing how can I increase the current, I choose easier path to put in XM-L2 instead.