You can see the archived poll results on the Wayback Machine:
https://web.archive.org/web/20221220093741/https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/72642
The reason for this poll. I recently received a Sanrenmu LB-763 axis lock knife. I like the knife. But I’m not too keen on the Axis locking mechanism. It doesnt lock up as consistantly as my knives with the linerlock/ framelocks. Just curious if anyone else had experienced this with Axis locks.
Framelock. Its the easiest to unlock. 
As far as axis locks go, there can be no comparison between Chinese copies and the real Benchmade axis lock. I have many Benchmade knives with axis locks, and picked up several of the Chinese copies. The Benchmade are silky smooth, can be operated with one finger and require no pressure. The Chinese ones are gritty, require two fingers and need a lot of finger pressure. They actually leave dents in your fingers. I gave them all away, and the people I gave them to complain that it hurts their fingers.
Liner locks and frame locks are basically the same thing. A fram lock is just a liner lock without a grip attached. Because they lack a grip they are thicker for overall frame integrity. I have no problem with either, but thick or thin, if the frame or liner lock doesn’t engage well, it doesn’t matter how thick or thin it is. I have never had a liner lock disengage on me.
Probaly the strongest would be the back lock. The biggest knock against them is the fact that you generally need two hands to operate them.
The strongest lock on the market today is the Cold Steel Triad lock. It is a super strong back lock type that can support the weight of a grown man hanging from it.
I’m a electrician by trade and have to carry a knife at all times.
The old school Jack Knife has served many people for years with no type of lock.
During the summer I started using a liner lock knife and liked it but as winter started and my thumb skin started to split and I could not close a liner lock.
At that time I went to a Axis lock and it made it much easier to close and have been using it ever since.
So my vote right now is for Axis Lock.
The only problem is when working with pipe I have to remind myself not to ream the pipe with my knife……………….
I voted other. They each have their advantages and disadvantages, and it depends on the task which knife I choose. I don’t tend to abuse my knives. If a fixed blade is needed I will use that instead.
I like ambidextrous open/close, and one-handed opening is nice too, but a frame-lock seems more robust, albeit heavier. Sometimes I do worry if my grip is too tight it is pushing the lockbar further towards the other scale.
Liner-lock knives with thick liners also feel safer. Thin liners, I worry about the “lock up” (i.e. where the bar butts against the tang).
Backlocks are nice, ambidextrous open, can be much lighter (look at the weight of Spyderco knives with FRN scales and backlocks) and can be converted to slip-joint. But with the wrong grip the lock can be accidentally disengaged.
Dale, the problem is with the knife, not the lock per se. Any locking folding knife should lock up solid. If it doesn’t, it’s because of a manufacturing defect (assuming the pivot is adjusted properly). Of course, we could argue about the relative strength of the various lock types all day, concluding in the end that a fixed blade is best. 
Y’all know my philosophy on this- unlike budget flashlights, budget knives are a joke. But, hey, to each their own.
I’ve given up on folders, except to carry. When I need to cut something, I make a conscious effort to avoid putting any stress on them that might lead them to close. Slicing only. (Never bring a knife to a gunfight, but I’ll bring a gun to a knife fight every single time, so what?)
My EDC is a Gerber Paraframe (rescued from a sunken boat’s bilge) which happens to have a liner lock. I had to “clean up” the “sear” to keep it from unlocking itself, and now it’s a pain to unlock. Plus it’s the one with the serrated inner half-blade, so it gets abused a lot.
Not to cast aspersions on anyone’s choices, but I’ve always been a “fixed blade” kind of guy…
If it can fold, it will fold, and probably at the worst possible moment.
I do have one question, though, which only you good people can answer:
What exact stress(es) do you put on the hinge of a folding knife? Inquiring minds (who blow up over using knives as levers, screwdrivers or chisels) want to know!
Thanks,
Dim
Dim, once I had to remove those thick staples used for fixing upholstery. Annoying once-off DIY sort of task. We used Sanrenmu 763 and 710 as the tips were thin enough to get under the staple but strong enough for leverage, and I didn’t mind the blades getting scratched. I can imagine breaking one or two utility blades doing the same thing.
Off topic, but this is interesting if you haven’t seen it already:
I didn’t add the slip joint because in my opinion it’s a antiquated dangerous design. I almost lost the end of my pinky finger to one as a teenager. But to each his own. Not really an argument. I think everyone will have their favorite & reason behind it. This is kinda a interesting knife I received a few years ago. It’s a BUCK safety knife or something like that. It will not open or close without releasing the gray button you see on it’s side.
Dale, here we are only legally allowed to carry slipjoints (I think the exact wording is ‘readily foldable, non-locking, cutting length under 3”’) without needing “good reason” (such as needing it for work). This is fine for me as I only really use them to cut fruit, packaging and labels but I know many would not be happy with such a restrictive law.
Linerlock for me, preferably Titanium and preferably made by Benchmade. Is there anything else? lol
But seriously, I just got an Enlan Bee with axis lock copies and don’t care for it much. I love the linen micarta scales, the blade seems nicely made and lockup feels secure but way too much effort is required to use the Axis copy. I’m getting it to where it will release and allow the blade to fall closed with one hand, but it’s taking some work.
Ready to go back to my heavy duty edc utility Buck Stryder. I can open/close the liner lock without going into contortions or even giving it much thought. But then, I’ve been using em for 14 years…
For $16, Enlan did a fantastic job! (EL-04)
The Spyderco compression lock is my favorite. The back lock is second.
The EL-01a & EL-01KH
Love the axis lock on my Sanrenmu 763…have never had a problem opening or closing with one hand…very smooth…not the least bit gritty. Also easy to open with the thumbstuds. I would like to get it’s big brother if there is such an animal.
I took a #2 metric allen wrench backed it off a quarter turn. Threw a dab of three in one oil in there & it seems to work better.
I like the back lock and the axis just because they are lighter, and I don’t generally use pocket knives for tasks they are not intended for. But I understand that those locks aren’t as robust as a liner or frame lock. But the liner and frame locks pay for being more robust because the knife is much heavier. Sometimes double the weight. So for me, it’s the right tool for the right job based on what I think my needs will be.
For EDC I like to carry light, and when I need the extra mojo, I’ll step up to a more robust folder or even a fixed blade.
Which lock type? It varies with the task. In the U.K. we can only carry knives that are non locking with a cutting edge of 3”, 75mm, or less so for EDC I carry a Spyderco Grasshopper. As a boy I got used to slip joints and fixed blades or sheath knives as we called them, I learned not to try with a penknife, slip joint, what needed a sheath knife and that lesson has stayed with me. I have spent years as a wood machinist/joiner using bladed tools, I use them all the time.
My small collection of knives has recently been growing thanks to the inexpensive Chinese high quality knives.
Favourite lock type has to be the Axis lock for “clean” jobs and once you’ve stripped, cleaned and adjusted the Omega springs and pivot screws the Chinese variety are as good as any. The truly ambidextrous design and ease of use stand out as does the centring of the blade is not influenced by sideways pressure from the liner or frame lock.
I’m sure Benchmade do it right and using the versions I have from SanRenMu, Enlan/Bee and Ganzo make it certain of a Griptillian in my future, so many options with the Griptillian now it will make your head spin.
For “dirty” jobs a fixed blade.
Linerlocks come next and the Enlan/Bee EL-01 is the one of choice, I’ve seen thinner framelocks than the liners on the EL-01.
I dislike framelocks because of the lack of visual balance and the feel in hand, they seem unfinished with only one scale, personal choice only, I’m certain they are fine.
Compression lock I’ve yet to try but I’m fairly certain I’d like them a lot.
I think each lock type has it’s strengths and weaknesses but it comes down to personal choice.
EDIT……………
I forgot the backlock, this was my first locking type, I don’t have very many, I prefer the other lock types.
The Cold Steel Tri-Ad lock looks very impressive but I’ve not tried one yet.
IMO the lock up depends on the knife shape and blade design.
I have many liner locks, and a few frame locks. I have a single spyderco back lock. and a few bench made axis locks.
All of the knives I have are quality and well made, so they all lock up tight and are smooth. I think the axis locks are the heaviest and built like tanks. The liner locks and frame locks would be my next choice.
As a teenager years ago I had a cheep Chinese/Pakastain lock back knife that the lock/bolsters/frame/pins failed on and it folded back 45 degrees and made the rest of the month go by seemingly without incident. I blame it on the crap that kids buy because it was cheep and I knew it. I also still have that scar on the inside of my forearm 30 years later… I call it a learning experience…LOL. No more cheep POS knives for me.
The only way I can think of to make a liner/frame lock to fail is to be twisting the blade while having a finger on the locking bar. I am aware that and axis lock can fail but I can only think that is due to having the finger release the lock.
I have wasted a lot of time about lock systems etc.
The strongest lock system today is Tri ad lock from cold steel. Well, the system lock of a ballisong can be almost a fixed knife.
Then, the axis lock is the next stronger in general, and continue with a very well made and thick framelock, zero tolerance for example.
I choosen “others” because the strongest lock is tri ad lock and for me it is not backlock.