What will beat the Fenix RC40?

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Mike Sloan
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What will beat the Fenix RC40?

A buddy of mine just bought the Fenix RC40. We have a little competition going on and he now has trumped my TK75! Do I now have to jump into the HID’s to best the RC40? I wonder if the FireFoxes FF4 will out throw the RC40. I know the Polarions will do the job….but trying to stay reasonable on cost. Any suggestions? Wink

mike

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Mike Sloan wrote:
A buddy of mine just bought the Fenix RC40. We have a little competition going on and he now has trumped my TK75! Do I now have to jump into the HID’s to best the RC40? I wonder if the FireFoxes FF4 will out throw the RC40. I know the Polarions will do the job….but trying to stay reasonable on cost. Any suggestions? Wink

mike

Look at the links in the OP. (beamshot links)

It can give you an idea

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/20715

lionheart_2281
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If you want to stay LED and want to easily outthrow him, just grab one of the modded TN31’s or K40’s that are getting around. I think there are for sale threads for em on CPF.

Note: forground spill looks pretty bad with these massive throwers, the RC40 will kill it in that respect, but you’ll have close to double the throw.

TK75 2900, TK75vn KT, K40vn Fiat Lux, X40, S200C2vn Fiat Lux, D26, D06, LD50vn, P7 QC, TX25C2vn Fiat Lux, Zeusray, TN36, MM15vn Fiat Lux, H02, SC600II L2, M3R, E05SSvn, SC52 L2, X6, P5R, TUBEvn

Mike Sloan
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Thanks, I will check those out. Saw some beamshots of the FF3 and FF4. looked like amazing throw with decent spill…..Just not sold on the practicality of HID lights…..but again, were not very practical collecting all these flashlights Wink

sesgum
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TomE’s super btu shocker. About 5000lumens and more than 400kcd throw. Beat rc40 in all ways!

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sesgum wrote:
TomE’s super btu shocker. About 5000lumens and more than 400kcd throw. Beat rc40 in all ways!

Ouch… !!

Lights out! That's when things get interesting...

lionheart_2281
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sesgum wrote:
TomE’s super btu shocker. About 5000lumens and more than 400kcd throw. Beat rc40 in all ways!

If only we could purchase them in that buffed up state!

TK75 2900, TK75vn KT, K40vn Fiat Lux, X40, S200C2vn Fiat Lux, D26, D06, LD50vn, P7 QC, TX25C2vn Fiat Lux, Zeusray, TN36, MM15vn Fiat Lux, H02, SC600II L2, M3R, E05SSvn, SC52 L2, X6, P5R, TUBEvn

blueb8llz
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sesgum wrote:
TomE’s super btu shocker. About 5000lumens and more than 400kcd throw. Beat rc40 in all ways!

yups! exactly what i had it mind. Tom E modded super shocker would be able to take out the rc40.

the ff4 would do it as well.
theres also the clone of the rc40 (supbeam x60), but i doubt it will beat the original.

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The one thing that I’m curious to find out is if the Vinh modded TK75 will beat or at least equal a stock RC40. The RC40 will probably have the wider flood. But as far as comparing lumen output and throw, it should be interesting. I personally would enjoy having the modded TK75 over the RC40 because of the flexibility. You could go portable or add extensions for longer runtime. I also prefer using widely available 18650 batteries over a proprietary cell. The FF4 will spank the RC40 in throw and lumens (better tint too) but the flood isn’t as wide. If you wish to stick to LED’s, you could get a BTU Shocker as people suggested and send it to Tom E. to amp up and de-dome. He reported that one of his latest de-dome mod had 467k in throw (in the same ballpark as a FF4) and 4100 lumens. http://budgetlightforum.com/node/22689
467k in throw is nuts for a multi-emitter light. I’m rooting for you in your contest. Give us a report on your next challenge.

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Tom E’s Socker doesn’t beat RC40, but kill RC40.

I’m saving up now and will duplicate Tom’s mod by myself next month, hopefully. Biggrin

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For those wanting to buy a Shocker to mod, a good source told me RIC could offer the Shocker at a nice discount without emitters and a driver, even at qty 1. Dunno if he'd do it for everyone but it's worth asking...

lionheart_2281
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Tom E wrote:

For those wanting to buy a Shocker to mod, a good source told me RIC could offer the Shocker at a nice discount without emitters and a driver, even at qty 1. Dunno if he’d do it for everyone but it’s worth asking…

Buy some, mod them and sell them, I’m sold for one

TK75 2900, TK75vn KT, K40vn Fiat Lux, X40, S200C2vn Fiat Lux, D26, D06, LD50vn, P7 QC, TX25C2vn Fiat Lux, Zeusray, TN36, MM15vn Fiat Lux, H02, SC600II L2, M3R, E05SSvn, SC52 L2, X6, P5R, TUBEvn

Mike Sloan
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I am sold on the Shocker mod. I think Tom may be a little swamped with all the response to his great work! I will continue to check in with him and will purchase one when he feels the time is right. Maybe I should pay more than the asking price!!!

Mike Dirol

Mike Sloan
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Quote:
He reported that one of his latest de-dome mod had 467k in throw

Is he de-doming the Shocker? I have heard some “modders” report that you dont need to de-dome this multi emitter monster.

18sixfifty
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Mike Sloan wrote:
Quote:
He reported that one of his latest de-dome mod had 467k in throw

Is he de-doming the Shocker? I have heard some “modders” report that you dont need to de-dome this multi emitter monster.

You do if you want that kind of throw.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

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Mike Sloan wrote:
Quote:
He reported that one of his latest de-dome mod had 467k in throw

Is he de-doming the Shocker? I have heard some “modders” report that you dont need to de-dome this multi emitter monster.


Correct you don’t NEED to dedome the BTU to get impressive power.
Generally these are your choices with appx numbers -
Fenix RC40 Stock – 3500 lumens – 126k
BTU XML U2 Stock – 3000 lumens – 130k
BTU XML2 U2 Stock – 3500 lumens – 160k
BTU XML2 U2 on copper – 3800 lumens – 185k
BTU XML2 U2 on copper, IOS driver, 20R’s – 4400 lumens – 230k
BTU XML2 U2 on copper, IOS driver, 20R’s, dedomed – 4000 lumens – 467k
18sixfifty
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rdrfronty wrote:
Mike Sloan wrote:
Quote:
He reported that one of his latest de-dome mod had 467k in throw
Is he de-doming the Shocker? I have heard some "modders" report that you dont need to de-dome this multi emitter monster.
Correct you don't NEED to dedome the BTU to get impressive power. Generally these are your choices with appx numbers - Fenix RC40 Stock - 3500 lumens - 126k BTU XML U2 Stock - 3000 lumens - 130k BTU XML2 U2 Stock - 3500 lumens - 160k BTU XML2 U2 on copper - 3800 lumens - 185k BTU XML2 U2 on copper, IOS driver, 20R's - 4400 lumens - 230k BTU XML2 U2 on copper, IOS driver, 20R's, dedomed - 4000 lumens - 467k
Wow that's all the Fenix RC40 is putting out? Well then my J-19 mod smokes it too. Although I'm running it with a DRY driver. I tried the IOS driver that Tom is using and it freezes up on high if left on for very long. The DRY doesn't and with the same size wire I got almost the same reading. Both are direct drive on High. I'm running King Kongs in the J-19. This is the SP03, Stock J-19 and modded J-19

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

Mike Sloan
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Quote:
BTU XML2 U2 on copper, IOS driver, 20R’s – 4400 lumens – 230k BTU XML2 U2 on copper, IOS driver, 20R’s, dedomed – 4000 lumens – 467k

Wow….big difference. When you dedome….does it increase throw at the expense of spill/flood?

18sixfifty
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Mike Sloan wrote:
Quote:
BTU XML2 U2 on copper, IOS driver, 20R’s – 4400 lumens – 230k BTU XML2 U2 on copper, IOS driver, 20R’s, dedomed – 4000 lumens – 467k

Wow….big difference. When you dedome….does it increase throw at the expense of spill/flood?

Well you loose some flood if everything else remains the same. However as you can see from the pics you still gain flood when you increase the power to the emitters. So with a mod like Tom’s or mine you gain both flood and throw over stock and by de-doming you get a much more neutral tint. It goes from cool white to neutral. So de-doming costs you a few lumens but you gain by doubling the throw and a nicer tint.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

rdrfronty
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Mike Sloan wrote:
Quote:
BTU XML2 U2 on copper, IOS driver, 20R’s – 4400 lumens – 230k BTU XML2 U2 on copper, IOS driver, 20R’s, dedomed – 4000 lumens – 467k

Wow….big difference. When you dedome….does it increase throw at the expense of spill/flood?


From what I’ve seen when you dedome a light, you still retain the flood coverage. However it is a weaker & less usable flood. The reflector is generally what controls the flood area. The die itself controls the intensity of distribution in each area – flood to spot.
So basically when dedomed, you just move more of the lux into the spot area by remove some lux from the flood area.
Tom E
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Wait - this is all brand new stuff and experimental to some degree. the last Shocker I completed was the de-domed one and I could get 5.7A measured at the switch, but I'm not sure I got that high on the one with domes. So, it's possible with domes to get even higher lumens than 4,400 (I'm thinking), but understand this is all for a couple of minutes only. The 20R's are 2000 mAh so they drain fast at 5.7 amps, and will drop the amps pretty quickly too. Can't compare to the Fenix RC40 with a well regulated driver, 6 cells at 2600 mAh, and probably can maintain high output for pretty long in that 1.5 hours of runtime they quote on turbo.

Where the RC40 falls short of where it could be is 2600 mAh cells -- why not 3400's? and XML U2's and not XM-L2 U2's.

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Very interesting thread.

I don’t like big fat flashlights but I will have to order this one and modd it with XP-G2 driven at 3A so I can use that for extended periods of time. And if your XM-L2 lux measurements are correct BTU Shocker should go well over 400KCD with them.

So I hope they will offer BTU Shocker host on CQG web shop?

18sixfifty
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edited because I answered my own question. My calculation were wrong.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

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Tom E wrote:

Wait – this is all brand new stuff and experimental to some degree. the last Shocker I completed was the de-domed one and I could get 5.7A measured at the switch, but I’m not sure I got that high on the one with domes. So, it’s possible with domes to get even higher lumens than 4,400 (I’m thinking), but understand this is all for a couple of minutes only. The 20R’s are 2000 mAh so they drain fast at 5.7 amps, and will drop the amps pretty quickly too. Can’t compare to the Fenix RC40 with a well regulated driver, 6 cells at 2600 mAh, and probably can maintain high output for pretty long in that 1.5 hours of runtime they quote on turbo.


Where the RC40 falls short of where it could be is 2600 mAh cells — why not 3400’s? and XML U2’s and not XM-L2 U2’s.


Very true. The high amperage direct-drive setup with low mah Samsung cells does have its practical limitations. That combo does make a beastly light though. It’s pretty much along the lines of the 6.5A TN31’s and K40’s. Very fun to play with but not too practical.
Of course one doesn’t have to go with the Samsung & IOS driver to make a BTU very impressive. A BTU with XM-L2’s on Noctigons or Sinkpads on good thermal paste, running on Keeppower 3400mah cells will surpass the RC40 with roughly 10% in lumens and 30% in throw. The BTU will lack some runtime though with its total of 10,200mah capacity vs the RC40’s 15,600mah’s.
I personally don’t see carrying either of these big heavy lights around for over an hour, so the runtime isn’t an issue for me.
I can’t knock the RC40 really. It is a superior light bone stock vs a BTU. No question. It is appx 3 times the price though. And a bone stock BTU will pretty much match the RC40 in performance. A little behind in lumens and a little ahead in throw – basically a tie.
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I’m very intrigued to see what this j19 does with feilong cells, I saw a test thread on the cells on cpf that seemed to suggest they still provide over 5000mah at 13a draw, couple that to the considerable reflector that seems similar to a btu shocker and it should provide some answers to the runtime issue if nothing else.

I’m going to have to grab a heat sink or two and make a test bed up, see what these’ll give single cell, then we need a single 32650 light with a good 70mm+ reflector and ar lense.

I hope ric, hank and simon are reading this and putting the feelers out.

18sixfifty
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gords1001 wrote:
I’m very intrigued to see what this j19 does with feilong cells, I saw a test thread on the cells on cpf that seemed to suggest they still provide over 5000mah at 13a draw, couple that to the considerable reflector that seems similar to a btu shocker and it should provide some answers to the runtime issue if nothing else.

I’m going to have to grab a heat sink or two and make a test bed up, see what these’ll give single cell, then we need a single 32650 light with a good 70mm+ reflector and ar lense.

I hope ric, hank and simon are reading this and putting the feelers out.

It should be interesting and I can’t wait to see what the results will be on those cells. Runtime is pretty good with king kongs as well.

That would make an awesome setup for a thrower.

I see the J-19 is still sitting in Chicago. They must think that I put something nasty in the package. Better check it with a geiger counter when it shows up, they probably x-rayed it 50 times already. I do wonder what the holdup is though. I can’t remember any of the packages I have shipped taking that long to clear customs.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

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I really like the way J-19 looks and its form over shocker, I hope you guys do figure a good driver to soup it up with MT-G2s! Smile Dedomed XML2 looks great too, can you measure it yet?

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You’re too modest, Tom. I am now seriously lamenting missing the recent $87 Ali promotion deal on the BTU Shocker (Xm-L’s, only, but you’d need to salvage some serious copper to approach Tom’s feat). If you were so inclined I think you’d find it hard to meet demand for your modded Super Shocker. I am now in search for such a light, after a strange encounter last night.

I was walking my dog last night on leash, towards a nearby park, when I heard a metallic rattling noise. As I approached a particular house, I realized that the A-hole that lived there had opened the gate to his fenced-in yard to let his exaggeratedly short-legged, fat, big-headed fake Pitbull attack me and my sweet, rescued (but genuine and gentle) Pitbull.

Fortunately, I had my brightest light, an XinTd C8 V4, in hand to shine in his dogs eyes while yelling “get back” at the same time, all while keeping my dog away so he wouldn’t grab ahold of the dog trying to protect me. Fortunately, I was successful in halting the dog’s attack, but when I shined my light across the young man’s yard, I spotted him standing at the far corner of his house just silently watching the event.

When my light hit him and I kept it there while processing what kind of idiot would let their dog loose to attack someone on a public road, he then shone his (seemingly) brighter flashlight (with a big head, but seemed more a flooder) toward me and said, I got a flashlight, too. It’s at that moment that I wished for a brighter light, so that when I informed him that he was legally responsible in FL for keeping his dog contained, and that if his dog did any damage on a public road, he would be fully liable, it would have had the explanation mark of at least double his lumens driving the point into his alcohol-stupored brain.

When and if he had then still responded (as he ignorantly did) that I shouldn’t be walking my dog after dark (his speech clearly that of a drunk person), causing his dog to bark, I would have then shone my SS Shocker onto the public road (that I was on the opposite side of) and told him that my walking on a public road was both lawful & irrelevant to his legal obligations, which would be heavy if his dog caused any harm on public property.

Apparently, he can’t bear his dog’s incessant barking each time someone passes, so in his drunken state, he blamed an innocent passerby (me), instead. Partly because of my doubts that he’s intelligent enough to explore other alternatives, such as training, shock collar, larynx surgery, keeping the dog inside, etc, I want a light bright enough to see if the gate is open well in advance, and partly because I just enjoy lumens, I am now on a quest to come up with a blindingly super-bright, super thrower light for this particular part of my daily walks.

Teach them right and they’ll choose to rescue a shelter dog, rather than contributing to the overpopulation & mass euthanization of dogs by profiting breeders.

http://www.petfinder.com/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVirCMQaJQc

B42
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Take some pepper spray and show the dog why not to claim the street as its “territory” next time.

gords1001
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they probably have my address on a watch list lol, I just hope England’s customs are reasonable with me at this end…. :bigsmile:

18sixfifty
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B42 wrote:
I really like the way J-19 looks and its form over shocker, I hope you guys do figure a good driver to soup it up with MT-G2s! Smile Dedomed XML2 looks great too, can you measure it yet?

Not really accurately enough to want to post it. I know it walks all over a stock Shocker and has way more runtime with the 26650’s. I also took out the IO driver and put the DRY driver back in I just re-wired the DRY with heavy wire. I like it much better and they are both direct drive on high anyway. So the J-19 is set up and rocking right now. I also like the four modes on the DRY better than the three modes on the IO driver. I’m giving up for now on the MT-G2 triple. I spent too much on fried drivers already. I have a double MT-G2 and it’s great so for now it will have to do.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

18sixfifty
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gords1001 wrote:
they probably have my address on a watch list lol, I just hope England’s customs are reasonable with me at this end…. :bigsmile:

It’s marked as “Gift” for what that’s worth. I did insure it though. I have never had to bribe anyone in England’s customs yet. Although I shipped a high end Les Paul to Venezuela once and paid a bribe to a customs official there. They have a $600 a year limit on buying from out of country via internet. Good thing they are all corrupt as hell.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

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Great idea, B42! Funny how guns and knives are the first things to come to mind here in the U.S. for self-defense. It’s fortunate for both me and the idiot that his dog was not as committed as his owner obviously thought he was to take on my dog.

I had a locking folder in my pocket that could have come out if needed. The idea of spraying mace or pepper spray is much better, especially under those circumstances, since it would repel the dog without permanent injury or death to the innocent animal (look at the owner, instead). It would also avoid giving the idiot hiding in the dark with who-knows-what kind of weaponry as much a reason to escalate the situation.

Anyone have a recommendation on where to buy some?

Teach them right and they’ll choose to rescue a shelter dog, rather than contributing to the overpopulation & mass euthanization of dogs by profiting breeders.

http://www.petfinder.com/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVirCMQaJQc

B42
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Illuminatee wrote:
Great idea, B42! Funny how guns and knives are the first things to come to mind here in the U.S. for self-defense. It’s fortunate for both me and the idiot that his dog was not as committed as his owner obviously thought he was to take on my dog.

I had a locking folder in my pocket that could have come out if needed. The idea of spraying mace or pepper spray is much better, especially under those circumstances, since it would repel the dog without permanent injury or death to the innocent animal (look at the owner, instead). It would also avoid giving the idiot hiding in the dark with who-knows-what kind of weaponry as much a reason to escalate the situation.

Anyone have a recommendation on where to buy some?

Exactly. I’m also from the US btw, and though I could carry one even concealed, I don’t tend to carry and would always choose to try to solve the situation with the least possible force. Its a dog, pepper spray and a long stick should be fine, and carrying a knife in the case of a satanspawn dog from hell bent on ripping your arm off and killing you should work if not Smile

You can get pepperspray all over online too, Amazon, ebay, sportsmansguide, etc. Not sure what the “best” site is. I carry some in my night forest hikes, I even prefer it over a gun then, but I’m not 100% it would help me with a bear…but black bears are generally just as afraid of you as you are of them and with two dogs and a knife, being a big guy I think I still have a pretty good chance. Wink I’m more afraid of not being able to keep my dogs away from the bear.

gords1001
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18sixfifty wrote:
gords1001 wrote:
they probably have my address on a watch list lol, I just hope England’s customs are reasonable with me at this end…. :bigsmile:

It’s marked as “Gift” for what that’s worth. I did insure it though. I have never had to bribe anyone in England’s customs yet. Although I shipped a high end Les Paul to Venezuela once and paid a bribe to a customs official there. They have a $600 a year limit on buying from out of country via internet. Good thing they are all corrupt as hell.

that should do it, I never like to ask incase it gets the sender in trouble but hopefully it’ll slide through without issue. It may also be on its way, I have noticed usp tracking stops when it enters the sort facility and does not update till its signed for.

I have a package to pick up tomorrow which could be something local or could be an international package, we’ll see in the morning, the feilong’s have shipped on Saturday (fasttech held the package up waiting for a c8, c8’s still not shipped unfortunately :~ ) so I should have them in the next few weeks along with some molicell 26700’s from Elektrolumens, I don’t think this light’ll be under fed lol

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B42][quote=Illuminatee wrote:

Exactly. I’m also from the US btw, and though I could carry one even concealed, I don’t tend to carry and would always choose to try to solve the situation with the least possible force. Its a dog, pepper spray and a long stick should be fine, and carrying a knife in the case of a satanspawn dog from hell bent on ripping your arm off and killing you should work if not Smile

You can get pepperspray all over online too, Amazon, ebay, sportsmansguide, etc. Not sure what the “best” site is. I carry some in my night forest hikes, I even prefer it over a gun then, but I’m not 100% it would help me with a bear…but black bears are generally just as afraid of you as you are of them and with two dogs and a knife, being a big guy I think I still have a pretty good chance. Wink I’m more afraid of not being able to keep my dogs away from the bear.

Thanks, again, B42, for the great advice. My walks had been peaceful and uneventful for so long, probably because I previously took both of my rescued pitbulls with me on walks, but my daughter recently took over walking duties with one of them. (Fortunately she always carries OC spray).

It’s blows my mind to see ignorant, irresponsible people choosing to neither keep their dogs contained nor on leash in 2013, while the general public (with substantial assistance from the media) blame the innocent, neglected, and often abused dogs.

I’ve got some Fox 6% OC spray on the way. Combined with a very sturdy ‘walking/deterrant’ stick and a belt-sheathed fixed-blade (as a last option), I’m now much more prepared for such situations.

Teach them right and they’ll choose to rescue a shelter dog, rather than contributing to the overpopulation & mass euthanization of dogs by profiting breeders.

http://www.petfinder.com/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVirCMQaJQc

InfinitusEquitas
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makapuu wrote:
The one thing that I'm curious to find out is if the Vinh modded TK75 will beat or at least equal a stock RC40. The RC40 will probably have the wider flood. But as far as comparing lumen output and throw, it should be interesting. I personally would enjoy having the modded TK75 over the RC40 because of the flexibility. You could go portable or add extensions for longer runtime. I also prefer using widely available 18650 batteries over a proprietary cell. The FF4 will spank the RC40 in throw and lumens (better tint too) but the flood isn't as wide. If you wish to stick to LED's, you could get a BTU Shocker as people suggested and send it to Tom E. to amp up and de-dome. He reported that one of his latest de-dome mod had 467k in throw (in the same ballpark as a FF4) and 4100 lumens. http://budgetlightforum.com/node/22689 467k in throw is nuts for a multi-emitter light. I'm rooting for you in your contest. Give us a report on your next challenge.

I have a Vinh modded TK75, and it's an absolute beast.  I don't know if it will beat the RC40 as I don't have one, but I think it would be difficult for it not to win out.

Two reasons... RC40 is using older emitters, and crappier batteries.  I also expect the LED's are not driven anywhere near as hard.

Fenix only recently released the xml2 version of the TK75, and it's nearly a match to the RC40 stock in terms of throw.  126000kcd for the RC40 vs 195000 for the TK75.

I know my dedomed TK75 would also spank the RC40 in throw, but so will the K40 and the TN31 as already was mentioned.  The dedomed tk75 has a nicer hotspot vs the tn31 and k40 though.

In terms of raw "wow" power, nothing I own beats the FF4.  In terms of practical limitations with that light, the only one that really bugs me is that you don't have a true low mode.

You also can't really run it for all that long.  You get about half hour of run time start to finish, if you go to high mode as soon as possible.  After that you will need to allow the light to also cool down as it gets HOT.  So if you're going camping, definitely not a light to take, since you'll need spare batteries.

On 20W "low" mode it would run for a while longer and is definitely in the 2000 lumen range... but that's way too much throwy light for up close stuff.  For me, nothing as of yet beats the modded TK75 overall.  My only wish would be to have the same performance in a smaller package.

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This will Biggrin

And the poor bastard has no hope in readily beating it either Wink

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borked wrote:
"This will :D":http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?92396-1kW-Xenon-Arc-Tank-Light And the poor bastard has no hope in readily beating it either Wink

I wonder what the actual performance numbers on that light are in terms of throw and lumens.

blueb8llz
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dude that is totally out of this world! so a tank has that light attached to it?

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blueb8llz wrote:
dude that is totally out of this world! so a tank has that light attached to it?

Umm, yeah Smile
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borked wrote:
blueb8llz wrote:
dude that is totally out of this world! so a tank has that light attached to it?
Umm, yeah Smile

Then that tank is at risk of being carnapped (or tanknapped) – by flashaholics. Blum 3

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I am pretty sure the Supbeam X60 will get you there.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/33484

whatchall think??

RicFlair is on the air with blonde hair & pink underwear!! Whaoooooo!

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Hi, i think the version of Racer86 Tk75 will beat them all even the tk75vn kt, its running about 6.6Amps each. And if he dedome those 3 xml2 I think it will give more throw.

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miojames wrote:
Hi, i think the version of Racer86 Tk75 will beat them all even the tk75vn

Yeah it will beat them all to overheat and drop like a stone in output.

It’s not all about the first 10 seconds, if even that.

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Fern wrote:
Yeah it will beat them all to overheat and drop like a stone in output.

It’s not all about the first 10 seconds, if even that.


Yes, and I believe the batteries sag will happen much quicker than the heat sag. We are talking about just a few seconds staying at maximum output lol.
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Where did you get your 10seconds idea? kindly read what he wrote on his thread.

Stock TK75 is a great powerful allrounder, now, this light is in a different league. Im not kidding when I say that my BTU, SP03, Lustefire 3xU2, all modified “hot-rods” are now pretty much obsolete. As in, this TK75 outperforms them in pretty much every possible way. This will probably make some of my incoming Supbeams X40 and K40M obsolete as well (hopefully Ill like the thinner carrier enough to keep them). This might make some other lights that I have been planning mod obsolete as well. This will also out throw X60. Naturally, It wont run as cool as a much larger light. But it will fit in my jacket pocket, and that makes it into a light that I will use much more compared to something that is larger.

Used in a mild/cold winter environment with some wind or maybe rain. It might be able to run at 6,6A without step down from full to low batteries. Now, late summer/early autumn with some wind I can use it for around 6-8 minutes before it steps down. Wait until it cools 5 degree (which is fairly quick) and I can crank it up again for a little while if needed. I can disable the feature, but I prefer to have it there for safety.

If you think 6,6A is over the top, or generates too much heat. Then its easy to adjust it down to 6A, or 5,6A or… 5A …. Well, easy once you are confident in how to operate the driver and how the menu system works.

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I hope he has found something after a year of searching! Blum 3

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bibihang wrote:
Fern wrote:
Yeah it will beat them all to overheat and drop like a stone in output. It's not all about the first 10 seconds, if even that.
Yes, and I believe the batteries sag will happen much quicker than the heat sag. We are talking about just a few seconds staying at maximum output lol.

Fern, heat sag is not an issue outdoors. When it is, the light steps down. And as already quoted that will take some time...

My numbers are "ansi numbers" indoors. No startup up bragging numbers typical for unregulated hot-rods with fresh cells.

The light is specifically built for real life continuous outdoor use with high capacity cells and does so very well. With all the modes (and different UI`s), user adjusted temperature, user adjusted peak output, its easy to tailor the light for any type of use and environment.

bibihang, battery sag is not an issue since its pretty much properly regulated. It will push out around/close to 5000 lumen even when cells are fairly low (some cells will be almost fully drained at that point). When it finally does go a bit down on output, it will still be RC40 level. This is one of the many reasons why I think the light is so much better compared to most unregulated hot-rods that are only super bright with the right freshly charged cells.

Most of your worries have been talked about in my thread on the light.

I have been thinking of making an RC40 R86 edition. But never had the light in my hands or seen a teardown, so I cant say for sure how my plans would go if I decided on it. Its very tempting though. It would basically be a lot like the TK75 R86 edition but with some necessary tweaks. Based on the same taskled driver, but bigger, brighter and badder. Biggrin The more I have been thinking about it, the more im tempted to pull the trigger on one..

BLF LED database – collaboration spreadsheet and latest news about where to buy LEDs
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/19342

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Cheers, you came to the rescue! you explain it very well about your mod Tk75 R86, saving some money now! I like the overall performance of that said taskled driver.thanks :party:

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While Fenix builds a fine flashlight, Ive owned 2 TK75 lights. In stock form, they overheat if kept in max mode. Its too bad the head wasnt built 50%-75% larger to better dissipate the heat… which is why I sold mine. The light that slaughters a stock TK75 without overheating is the Supbeam X60. Thanks to the larger head, after it steps down, it can be ran continuously while being kept on the verge of becoming too hot. No need for any user input, thermal management, exotic batteries or mods of any sort. Right out of the box, it does it all… and with a superior UI. No irritating multiple button presses to get the brightness level you want. Just use the control ring dimmer that allows you to dial in just the right amount of light for the situation. Once you try this type of UI, you wont go back to the Fenix style.

Although the RC40 came along before the X60, I would have bought one right away if not for the ridiculous proprietary cell pack. That really ruined it for me so I held off. The wait was worth it because the X60 is brighter and takes 6 × 18650’s.

Luckily, there is a great sale going on that drops the price of the X60 nearly in half and the kit comes complete with the charger. Check the sales thread if you’re interested. :bigsmile:

The human eyes need a full 20% increase in lumens to notice that one light might be brighter than the other. Its also interesting that doubling the amount of lumens is perceived as less than a 50% increase in brightness to the human eyes.

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