Can any of you knowlegeable people here tell me if I can use a 14500 battery in my RC-29?
The C6 use a RCR123A battery and the driver looks the same in both lights, but are they?
KD says the RC-29 accepts 1,5 volts max. DX dont have the RC-29.
There is a fair chance it'll kill the driver or the LED - but it might not. It's probably best to dig around in CPF and see if anyone has done that before you. Might save having to replace it.
Thank you Don. I have looked in CPF, but no answer there. But as it are two very popular
lights it will show up someday I think.
I dont want to try it myself as I like the little light.
I would not try it especially if the specs say 1.5volt max.
I have a RiverRock 1 watt thats not suppose to run at 3.7volts but it does.....i love that little light again since the output of the light is twice more then when it was running nimh. All it takes is a turn on and if the led light output turns blue then it might just be too late for the led or driver, believe me i have done this.
I run a 14500 in my RC-29 and haven't had any issues with it at all. Then again, I wouldn't know if it works any longer with AA cells as I never use them. If you stick with 14500 cells it doesn't really matter then. 
Cheers,
Johnny
I`ve got the rc 6 with aa the light is tiny and nice but the driver draws only around 700 ma at the tail with full eneloop so it`s not the same driver as rc 29. The diameter of driver is 16 mm so not so easy to replace RC 29 draws around 2 a when i remember it right and there are two different rc 29 one single mode and one 3mode. so be careful with 14500 . If you try tell us the result.
. RC 6 aa is good for working but not as bright as rc 29 . Overall quality does not feel as solid as rc29, tail stand is little bit wobbly. But its better in your pocket.
Greetings
Gerd
There are two different RC-29 versions: One original single mode version that is AA only and a newer three mode one that says "14500 & AA" on the side.
I also think there are several RC-C6 versions where some of them are clones of inferior quality, such as the RC-C6 AA. It would be pointless of Romisen themselves to make that light and it's not listed on their website either. A wild guess is that both versions on Manafont are clones.
I've bought three RC-29s and all of them have have been of perfect quality with a nice forward clicky, the RC-C6 reviewed here had a rubbish clicky totally unlike the RC-29.
I also also think there are several RC-C6 clones of inferior quality, such as the RC-C6 AA (from Manafont + 123 version). The original ones have anodized tailcap threads and the colour on the tailswitch rubber is also suspicious. Romisen is not known for changing their designs. My wild guess is: all c6 with bare aluminium threads are fake and the ones with anodized threads are the real deal.
If you got this
it should take 14500
That is the one I have and it does indeed take 14500. It's also the real deal and a heck of a sweet torch.
I own two Shiningbeam Romisen 1-mode 1AAs, each using an XR-E with a 5A or 5C tint: an RC-29 II and an RC-G2 II. On the RC-29 II, the focusing helical stopped working; it's stuck at 8X wide. On the RC-G2 II, I burned out the switch by using a 1.7V nickel-zinc AA; it wasn't the voltage that did it in, but the low resistance, which allowed more current to pass through the switch. Shiningbeam replaced the switch for free. But being adventurous, I recently installed a 3V CR14505 cell. Now the G2's switch works in momentary only. But boy, does it throw. I'll probably visit Shiningbeam.com and buy a spare switch or two; the G2 is actually my daughter's and she she'll be looking for it when she comes home in 11 days.
Paul you know how to disassemble the torch, dont you?
Thanks, kreisler. I'll watch this at home...and when I find where I put the RC-29 II.
cool .....
double resurrection of an old thread
one of J macs first posts on blf
wonder if he lurked for a year ?