The Solarstorm Raging revisited. Now with Beam Shots! - Finished

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Old-Lumens
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The Solarstorm Raging revisited. Now with Beam Shots! - Finished

You may remember this thread.

It has bothered me for a long time. It's hard to let go. So here's the Solarstorm Raging mod "V2.1"

ss1a

It's already torn apart and that's how I like a light to look! Torn apart...

 

ss1b

I am going to change a lot, but I am keeping with the 5 led style. Five Nichia 219 High CRI leds on XP-G Copper stars. They sit on copper plate that will be mounted inside the head. I have two Copper discs that I got from a seller on Etsy. She stamps out the discs. I will be soldering the two together and soldering the stars onto the plate, while reflowing the leds onto the stars. Ought to be interesting!

I got the reflector from Tmart. They sent me a couple to play around with. It's close to 60mm, so it will fit in the head of this light and probably many of the larger head multiple led lights out there. I just didn't like all the leds out there around the outer edge, like the stock light.

 

ss1c

I already did the milling before posting, just in case I messed it up. If I had, I wouldn't be doing the thread. This was done with a Dremel #115 bit in my drill press, handheld on the drill table. The three holes are original and I will use the same screws to hold down the copper plate, just like the stock plate was.

 

ss1d

Just to give you an idea.

ss1e

 

I will be using the stock driver. I am hoping it will give me about 1.4-1.5 amps per led and that should be about right for the Nichias. Hopefully it will be a nice natural tint high CRI goodness, with about 1000 lumens OTF.

I may also put a momentary switch in the handle, so that mode changing can be done there, instead of with the main switch in the tail. It would be a combination of the main clicky for off/on and momentary for modes, but I have to find a momentary that is normally closed and open only when pushed. Don't know if I can find one in the SMD format. It will have to be a Judco. They make one Normally Closed momentary open, 10 amp.

That's all for now...

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

10-18-13  I think the worst is over.

sst1

At least, the part I was worried about the most has been finished. Here I am soldering the two copper plates together. I used several "clamps" to squeeze while heating, so the plates would not have a lot of solder between them.

 

sst2

Everything is soldered. The stars are soldered to the plates and the leds are soldered to the stars. I used my small torch to heat from underneath and the plates sat on a deep socket, so I could heat all the way around. Once the leds settled onto the stars, I took the heat away and let it air cool.

 

sst3

Everything looks fairly well aligned. It's not perfect, but it's close enough for hand grenades.

 

sst5

Wires have been added and I had to use some sticky back pads between the leds and the reflector, so it would not touch wires and short.

 

sst4

The leds will be in parallel and I opted to run separate wires for all of them and bring them together at the underside, so that I could use smaller gauge wires for them and then I can just use two larger main wires from the driver.

That's all for today.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

10-19-13, just got home from work.

Here's the rest. All I am waiting for is to get the Judco switch next week and make it so there's a momentary switch for the handle. Other than that, it's finished and working. Oh, I still have some cosmetics to do yet as well. I will show all that next week some time.

ssr1

The led plate is screwed down. I used some Arctic thermal paste where the copper sits in the aluminum head, for better heat transfer.

 

ssr2

The wiring completed. I used 18ga for the main wires from the driver and soldered them to the led wires.

 

ssr3

Four Fresh Panasonic 10 amp 18650s.

 

ssr4

Ready to go play! I had the lens from the other failed SSR and it seems to be coated, where the one I had in this light didn't look coated, so I swapped them.

The copper is doing it's job. When I turn this light on, I can start to feel heat through the head in about 12-15 seconds, so the copper is getting it out to the head fast, which is what I wanted.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 I gave up on the momentary switch. Could not get it to work every time, so it's back to the stock switch and it's Done.

Going up for Auction now.

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Edited by: Old-Lumens on 10/22/2013 - 12:36
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ssb1

It Lives! - High

 

 

ssb2

It's brighter than I thought it would be with the Nichias in it.

 

ssb3

High

 

ssb4

Medium

 

ssb5

Low

 

ssbcon

Control

 

ssb6

High

 

ssb7

High

 

 

ssb8

 

ssb9

I am pleasantly surprised/impressed with the outcome. It's bright as heck and even though my camera will not show it as it truly is, the light is a neutral white and the color reproduction is awesome!

Visible, (to the camera only), PWM on Medium and Low.

 

Glamour Shots

rg1

rg2

rg3

rg4

 

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totilde
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Spuds extremely interesting. I have one collecting dust here, maybe this thread gives me the courage to make a similar mod!
Good luck, subscribed

Mooooooo

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Very interesting and great start!
I’m especially keen to see how you tackle the switch on the handle.

Subscribed Smile

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Glad to see you got the light safe and sound!

Looking forward to this one.

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More photos in the OP

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unknown00101
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Awesome.

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Some nerve wracking stuff doing 5 at a time, geesh! Nice job Justin!

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The OP is updated and there are beam shots in Post 1

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Sweet mod Old-Lumens!

Glad you kept at this light, turned out great!

This will get one lucky owner! Smile

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unknown00101
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Extremely cool. That garage door shot must have hurt a little bit.

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The King of Nichias? This looks like it is the brightest light you have built by your island shot and my poor memory. Its amazingly creative as usual. Is the stock driver used?

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

makapuu
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Beautiful !!!

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Big 219 lights! Just read yesterday that Eagletac made one, and now an OL special! Nice solder job!

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How did you keep all the LEDs perfectly centered in the reflector while you soldered the stars to the pill?

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Congratz on the success!

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Congratulations again, I’ll try something with mine

Mooooooo

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Ouchyfoot wrote:
How did you keep all the LEDs perfectly centered in the reflector while you soldered the stars to the pill?
I put solder on the back of the stars first, then aligned them and soldered them to the plate, by heating from underneath. Then I added the leds and heated just enough to get them to flow on to the stars. It was nerve wracking to say the least.

 

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MRsDNF wrote:
The King of Nichias? This looks like it is the brightest light you have built by your island shot and my poor memory. Its amazingly creative as usual. Is the stock driver used?
Yes, I used the stock driver. From reading threads in here, it seems the stock driver was only putting out about 1.4-1.5 amps per led and that was just what I wanted for the Nichias.

 

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Thanks for the praise and support everyone. I have been working on the momentary switch wiring today and I'm just waiting for the switch to come in next week.

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Old-Lumens wrote:

Ouchyfoot wrote:
How did you keep all the LEDs perfectly centered in the reflector while you soldered the stars to the pill?
I put solder on the back of the stars first, then aligned them and soldered them to the plate, by heating from underneath. Then I added the leds and heated just enough to get them to flow on to the stars. It was nerve wracking to say the least.

 


So I guess you had to align them with the reflector on, and then lift it back off verrrrrrrry carefully, and hope you didn’t bump anything.
I’ve always wondered what would happen if you used solder paste on the stars, and left the reflector in place to keep them centered. How would the heat affect the reflector? Would the lower melting temp of paste have any effect?
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Ouchyfoot wrote:
Old-Lumens wrote:

Ouchyfoot wrote:
How did you keep all the LEDs perfectly centered in the reflector while you soldered the stars to the pill?
I put solder on the back of the stars first, then aligned them and soldered them to the plate, by heating from underneath. Then I added the leds and heated just enough to get them to flow on to the stars. It was nerve wracking to say the least.

 

So I guess you had to align them with the reflector on, and then lift it back off verrrrrrrry carefully, and hope you didn't bump anything. I've always wondered what would happen if you used solder paste on the stars, and left the reflector in place to keep them centered. How would the heat affect the reflector? Would the lower melting temp of paste have any effect?
I would not want to leave the reflector on due to the chance of hurting the plating. In theory it might be OK, but I didn't want to risk it. With the regular solder on the stars, I just put a dab of flux on each one, so they would "stick" to the plate when I lifted the reflector off. It worked pretty well. They aren't perfect, but better than I had hoped for.

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RaceR86 wrote:

Sweet mod Old-Lumens!

Glad you kept at this light, turned out great!

This will get one lucky owner! Smile

+1. Exactly what I was thinking.

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Nice torch even nicer house Smile

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What diameter is the driver and how is it held in?

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texaspyro wrote:
What diameter is the driver and how is it held in?
Roughly, 47mm and it's glued in. Sits down on a shelf and glued in place. Yep, they used silicone on the original and I used AA this time.

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Glamour shots in Post #1 and it's done. Stayed with the stock switch as I could not get the momentary to work all the time with it.

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