Hi, all. I need one XM-L2 T4 5D2.
I have some neat things to trade/trade plus cash,
including a sealed 2C “no C in serial number” Maglite for a little extra on your
end. 
…still looking.
I just need one piece.
I have some nifty things to trade!
How much did these sell for when available, five U.S. dollars?
How about 600% extra?
I will pay $30.00 for one piece XM-L2 5D2.
What do you need this exact LED for?
Thank you for the reply.
I am having it modded into a Surefire U2.
I thought about going high CRI but too much of a lumen loss.
T5 5C1 is available, but a bit yellow.
5D2 should be “just right” between yellow (5C1) and red (6A1)
for hiking.
I hike in both deserts (tan, yellow, orange, red) and forests
(brown, green, grey) and I think 5D2 will be just right.
You're a tint addict.
Who carried it originally?
I found someone from here who has one in Europe for $30.00.
Now I am debating between 5D2 and 7A3!
International Outdoor Store had it originally,
but they have no more stock.
The 5D2 at around 4000K is going to be paler.
The 7A3 sits between 3000K and 3125K according to spec.
Which would you choose and why?
Would 5A3 do? It’s one tick to the left of 5D2 on the ANSI chart.
It’s $18.98 for a lot of 5, and there might be a discount code if you look around:
That is not a 80+CRI LED like any of the LEDs mentioned by LEDAdd1ct
Sorry, my bad. I read this part:
and assumed he was looking for a regular XML2.
I guess that explains why he's willing to pay so much for one.
I guess he head the Nichia 219 High CRI variant from IS in mind for high CRI, which is rather inefficient (low lumens and high Vf.)
When I say “high CRI” I am referring only to emitters with a CRI
of 90 or more.
Both the Cree and Nichia which are over 90 have a dramatic reduction
in output at the same current.
To me, 80+ isn’t really high CRI, but is an acceptable compromise.
At least it is stated.
Since the 7A3 is a little over 3000K from International Outdoor Store
and is quite cheap, it is the direction I am presently leaning.
I agree on the high CRI definition. Should be 90+
When that is said. 7A3 (80+ CRI) is my favorite emitter around the 3000K range. But it cant really be compared to 5D2, which is a NW emitter. They are quite far from each other. I perceive the 5D2 as having more red/rosy looking tint compared to the typical slight yellow-ish Cree emitters around the same range. Its somewhat more like the common Nichia emitters.
If you want the 5D2 but don't want to pay the extreme price, and are considering 7A3 (80+ CRI). Then buy the T4 6A3 (80+ CRI) instead. My favorite emitter around the 3700K range. You can probably get the quantity you want if you do a request.
T3 6A1 (80+ CRI) is an option too, but Im not a fan of that as I find it too rosy and its got lower bin. (6A1 is great for tint mixing in combination with emitters that yellow looking though).
I only need one emitter for the Surefire U2.
Yellow desert sand, brown tree bark, red/gold autumn leaves, green leaves on the trees,
and brown/muddy dirt.
5D2
7A3
6A3
I don’t like tints that are overly red, nor overly yellow.
Will 3700K 6A3 be a good balance?
All of these are 80+ CRI and all of these are T4 bin…
Tints are a matter of personal taste.. There is no correct answer. This is why I tend to buy them all.. 0:) Mixing them can give you even better results once you know what you have and what you want.
For the type of use you describe I would pick 6A3 over 7A3. Personally I would take an easily available 5B1 (80+ CRI) over those, because its more NW, and in general I prefer a "5" tint over 6 and 7 for nature and such. But since you say 5C1 is too yellow, you will probably find the 5B1 to be too. Then you are back to the 5D2. Or go for a warmer "6" (6A3) that is slightly below BBL at a more reasonable price.
You could also gamble on that the 6A1 is not too red/rosy looking for you taste...
The 5D2 is probably the best emitter for you considering what you describe. But if its worth a high premium price compared to the others, that is another question that no one can answer based on your preferences. And since you have not seen it yourself, well.. there is no correct answer that anyone can give you..
Crap - didn't realize I had one all the time - from a IOS order a while back... Just put it in the BLF TF A8 light yesterday.... Are you still look'n?
Hi, Tom.
PM’ed you back a couple times but haven’t heard back from you.
Willing to pay cash for the LED alone or extra for you to complete the mod.
Please let me know.
Thank you!
Should have pretty much the same tint, but higher bin. :)
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/16631#comment-506936
:beer:
You don’t loose that much to the human eye and with the better colors you really see objects better with much better shape & shadows giving you a more “3D vision” so to speak. What you loose more is in the throw IMO. You also get a much better comfortable light for the eyes.
Compare a incan maglite to a LED light and you will see what I mean.
Also the color change depending of the output, low mode is warmer.
Already bookmarked! 
Still holding out for the 5D2.
I intend to get it swapped into a Malkoff Stinger dropin, which I think
only pushes about an amp or so to the LED.
At only an amp, I think it will be too warm for me (the low CCT high CRI LED).