Review: Ultrafire LZZ F15 XML-U2

LED Flashlights – General Info 26650 Flashlights
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Ultrafire LZZ F15

Hello All,

Here’s a light that Tmart sent me for review. I’ve put it in the 26650 category because that’s it’s actual body size, but it includes adapters for 1x18650 or 3x AAA batteries. This review was done with 1x18650 as are the other flashlights for comparison.

REVIEWER OVERALL RATING:3.5/5

Battery: 26650,18650,3xAAA
Mode: H/M/L/Strobe/SOS
LED Type: XM-L U2
Lens: Plastic/smooth reflector
Tailstands: yes
Price Paid: Sample, retails $18.99 USD
From: Tmart
Date Received: 10-22-13

Specifications
Modes 5
Mode Arrangement Hi ＞ Mid ＞Lo ＞ Strobe ＞ SOS
Emitter Type CREE U2
Lumens 1400 Lumens
Power 10W
Bulb Quantity 1
Light Color White
Lightbulb Lifespan 100000 hours
Lighting Distance 200m
Battery Configuration 1 x 18650 / 26650 Battery (not included)
Input Voltage 3.7V-4.2 V
Runtime 2-3 hours
Switch Type Clicky
Switch Location Tail-cap
Lens Coated Glass Lens
Reflector Aluminum Smooth / SMO Reflector
Material Aerospace aluminum alloy
Color Black
Dimensions ( 5.79 x 1.38 x 1.18 )” / ( 14.7 x 3.5 x 3 ) cm / (L x Head Dia. x Body Dia.)
Weight 6.35 oz / 180 g
Waterproof Yes

Overall the light seems to have very good build quality and finish for the price point.

The finish on the light seems fairly resilient. I’ve put it through some regular pocket use with no real signs of wear.

Here’s some beam shots of the IPX7 as compared to some other lights.

F15 beamshot at 12 feet

Beamshot of three lights. Custom built solarforce l2t with xm-l t6 (top) f15 (right) DRY 3*XM-L T6 (Bottom)

F15 Beamshot at 75 feet

Custom Solarforce xm-l t6 Beamshot at apprx. 75 feet

DRY at 75 feet

PROS: I really like the feel of this light. threads seem well lubricated and smooth. The emitter is well centered. The overall shape and size of the light feels really good in the hand. Good, even beam. solid tail click. 1/2 click is possible to quickly shift through modes. It’s nice to have the option to use 3 different battery types.

CONS: The beam does not seem as bright as I would have expected(though it’s still plenty bright). I’m not a fan of all the modes, and when the light is switch off and back on it will just resume to the next mode rather than the mode you were on when it was switched off. With the adapters in place there is movement within the light when it’s shaken.

OVERVIEW: I’m a fan of this light. For the price, I think it’s a no-brainer. I would not hesitate to have this light in my collection for utility use with the ability to use a 26650. With a few changes, I would have easily given a 4-4.5 out of 5.

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I see that you’ve spelled it Utrafire… I’m not sure if you’re posting that to say that I misspelled it somewhere or if that was a question.

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/271293626378?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&\_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

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I like the looks of it, and that it has a side activation switch. My original interest in the ultrafire was the U2.

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Would it be possible to rename this thread? IPX7 is not the name of the model - it's LZZ F15. IPX is only the Ingress Protection Rating.
With the correct model name it would be easier to find your review in the future.

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Did you check if there's thermal grease or pasted under the emitter star? I bet there isn't.

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That Ultrafire F15 is a decent light for the money. I got one from fasttech for $16. The anodizing on it is very very nice. You will need to put some thermal paste under the led, I didn’t see any on the one I received. And you can get more amps if you replace the springs with copper springs. Also, move/solder the positive red led wire from the driver to the other +. Direct drive. Should get you up to about 2.8amps. The next mode memory is awful. You might be best off just replacing the driver with a $3 nanj 2800ma driver and be done with it. You will also get better output with a 26650 battery vs 18650

I really think the Ultrafire F15 would be interesting if it had a side switch instead of the rear.

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/1600LM-12W-UltraFire-CREE-XM-L-T6-LED-Zoomable-Zoom-18650-26650-Flashlight-B38-/331034470616?pt=US_Flashlights&hash=item4d133128d8

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I certainly think that I’d go with a driver swap to the nanj. Mine doesn’t have much in the way of thermal paste either. I have not experienced many lights that weren’t short in this area that were anywhere close to the price of this light, though.

If the modes don’t bother you, I’d think this light would be fine for utility use. I didn’t experience any issues with the light under extended use.

For some reason, I don’t mind the tail switch on this light. A side activation would be great, but I can’t say i’m bothered by the lack of it.

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done… Thanks.

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I have one, and it is great for modding, everything big and durable, just the driver size is not the most common (if I remember well 21mm) so a nanjg105c will not readily fit.

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/271293626378?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&\_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Zoomie

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Did you swap the driver? If so, what driver did you use as a replacement?

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I still use a nanjg105c, but use it behind a contact plate or adapter ring. Contact plates are easy to find, or can be made by stripping your old driver, but you may have to make your own adapter ring. Wallbuys has an adapter ring, but it's $3 and I haven't tried it yet.

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I find it undesirable to use a 105c this way because the board has a very bad heatpath to the outside (through air), the current regulators will get very hot. Has anyone ever measured output of a well heatsinked 105c compared to a very bad heatsinked one?, does my objection make any real world sense?

At the moment I use no driver in it, the stock driver board is still in there, just used to connect the battery directly through to the led-wires, (it has a xm-l2 5B1 80CRI on a Sinkpad board).

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Here at BLF

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I’ve been a bit lazy moding any lights this summer so I picked up one of these from T-mart to try some cheap mods. on.The light worked fine when I got it, but the next mode memory had to go.Tryed the pencil trick over the cap. and it worked!While I was at it I decided to file down the isolator/spacer between the reflector and LED.Added AA paste under the star,moved the +p wire on the driver,then jumpered the pathetic springs with solder wick.Went from 1.91 amps to just over 3 with a fresh 26650 and the beam is much better.It still has a a lot of thermal sag and the tint is too cool for me, but a much better light than stock with only a small amount of work.Now I have to decide what tint XML2 I want to order for it.I usually go with the T63C’s, but I may try something warmer for this light.I’ll have to go to RMM’s store and see what he has on 20mm stars in stock. :wink: