Thrower - Flooder Beamshots (UPDATED - Now 34 Lights - Very Photo Heavy)

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rdrfronty
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Thrower - Flooder Beamshots (UPDATED - Now 34 Lights - Very Photo Heavy)

I and brother (manxbuggy1) have modified this older list as a thrower/flooder beamshot compilation page. As we get new powerful lights or as we modify older lights we will continue to update the page and the list. We will continue to keep the older stock versions posted up for reference.
The requirements for this list and page is either 50k in throw or 2000 lumens. Most fill both requirements – very easy.
We are using our favorite area, a county park close to us. It has a nice dark channel cut into the forest that opens into an big field. Roughly 200m of forest, then 100m of open field. At the end of the open field we positioned a big white tarp measuring 8ft x 12ft (2.4m x 3.7m). This tarp was placed on a fence at 300m from the lights and camera.
Fortunately, this park is setup very well for even longer distant targets. So the secondary target is the second fence line and is positioned 440m away from the lights and camera. Lastly, we placed a third target, a 6ft x 8ft (1.8m x 2.4m) tarp on an even more distant fence line at 555m. On most of the shots we have the tarp on this far target, on a few of them we were dummies and put the tarp in the wrong place. However there is a sign still at the same original location, its just not white like the tarp is. The elevations works well with each target being slightly higher the further they got away from us. So on the strongest half of the lights, all three targets can be seen. Please note that the 300m target was where all the lights and camera shots were actually aimed at for all beamshots.
So for the photos we took, we did a non zoomed shot of every light. Then we did a zoomed in shot of every light. We use a Canon Rebel T3i. The non zoomed shots used my 18-55mm lens, positioned at the 18mm spot. The zoomed shots we taken with my 55-250mm zoom lens, positioned at the 250mm spot. Camera settings were Manual Focus, ISO 800, F/13, 3.2 sec..
There will always be some variances in these shots considering some were taken different nights, some might be slightly better on target, etc. It’s not perfect and neither are we. But will feel this list can be a helpful list of beamshots & data.
Also all testing was done using the same lightbox and lux meter. Lumen numbers are recorded at 30 sec. And Lux numbers are recorded as the highest repeatable number after about 10-15 seconds.
We do have to thank some fellow members – Tom E, DBCstm, & Vinh – without these guys creating many of these lights, this list and page of beamshots wouldn’t exist, or if it did it would really suck pretty bad.
Here is the up to date list of the lights. In order from low to highest in throw -
.

.
————————————————————————————-
Shots taken and posted up on the following dates -
———————————-
Added 11-3-2013 -
BTU w/ 477k
TN31 w/ 469k
Niwalker w/307k
X40 w/158k
SP03 w/158k
Terminator w/74k
S2200 w/74k
TRJ12 w/62k
King w/ 40k
Kung w/ 34k
—————————
Added 8-17-2013
Yezl 85wt
———————————
All others taken 8-10-2013
—————————————————————————-
Here are control & reference shots –
DAYTIME NON ZOOMED CONTROL

.
Now for the non zoomed shots. They are in order from weakest to strongest in throw -
.
SKYRAY KUNG – stock

.
TRJ-12 – stock

.
SKYRAY KING – stock

.
SKYRAY KUNG – XML2

.
SKYRAY KING – XML2

.
ULTRAFIRE HD2010 – stock

.
OLIGHT SR51 – stock

.
CRELANT 7G5-V1 – stock

.
EAGLETAC M3C4 – stock

.
BLACKSHADOW TERMINATOR – stock

.
TRJ-12 – XML2

.
SOLARSTORM SP03 – stock

.
SOLARFORCE S2200 – resistor

.
BLACKSHADOW TERMINATOR – XML2

.
FENIX TK75 – stock

.
ULTRAFIRE C8 – W/XML2 DEDOME

.
JACOBS A60 – W/XPE2

.
ULTRAFIRE C8 – W/XPG2 DEDOME

-
THRUNITE TN31 – W/XML2

.
SOLARSTORM SPO3 – DEDOMED

.
SUPBEAM X40 – DEDOMED

.
BTU W/XML2 – (BTU DRIVER)

.
SMALL SUN TY-T08 – W/XML2 DEDOME

.
BTU W/XML2 – (IOS DRIVER)

.
YEZL HID 50WT – 4300k bulb

.
YEZL HID 85WT – 4300k bulb

NIWALKER VOSTRODEDOME

.
THRUNITE TN31 – W/XML2 DEDOME (STOCK DRIVER)

.
OLIGHT SR90 – W/SBT70

.
SUPBEAM K40 – W/XML2 DEDOMED, VINH 6.5A

.
OSTS TN31mb – XPG2 DEDOMED

.
FIREFOXES FF4 – 24W

.
FIREFOXES FF4 – 42W

.
FIREFOXES FF4 – 60W

.
THRUNITE TN31 – XML2 DEDOMED, TOM E

.
BTUDEDOMED IOS DRIVER

.
THRUNITE TN31 – W/XML2 DEDOMED, VINH 6.5A

.
So next up is the zoomed in shots. Same lights and same order-
.
NIGHTTIME ZOOMED CONTROL

.
NIGHTIME ZOOMED DISTANCE MARKERS

.
SKYRAY KUNG – stock

.
TRJ-12 – stock

.
SKYRAY KING – stock

.
SKYRAY KUNG – XML2

.
SKYRAY KING – XML2

.
ULTRAFIRE HD2010 – stock

.
OLIGHT SR51 – stock

.
CRELANT 7G5-V1 – stock

.
EAGLETAC M3C4 – stock

.
BLACKSHADOW TERMINATOR – stock

.
TRJ-12 – XML2

.
SOLARSTORM SP03 – stock

.
SOLARFORCE S2200 – RESISTOR

.
BLACKSHADOW TERMINATOR – XML2

.
FENIX TK75 (a little out of focus) – stock

.
ULTRAFIRE C8 – W/XML2 DEDOME

.
JACOBS A60 – W/XPE2

.
ULTRAFIRE C8 – W/XPG2 DEDOME

-
THRUNITE TN31 – W/XML2

.
SOLARSTORM SPO3 – DEDOME

.
SUPBEAM X40 – XML2 DEDOME

.
BTU W/XML2 – (BTU DRIVER)

.
SMALL SUN TY-T08 – W/XML2 DEDOME

.
BTU W/XML2 – (IOS DRIVER)

.
YEZL 35WT – 4300k bulb

.
YEZL 50WT – 4300k bulb

.
YEZL 85WT – 4300k bulb

.
NIWALKER VOSTRODEDOME

.
THRUNITE TN31 – W/XML2 DEDOME (STOCK DRIVER)

.
OLIGHT SR90 – W/SBT70

.
SUPBEAM K40 – W/XML2 DEDOMED, VINH 6.5A

.
OSTS TN31mb – XPG2 DEDOMED

.
FIREFOXES FF4 24W

.
FIREFOXES FF4 42W

.
FIREFOXES FF4 60W

.
THRUNITE TN31 – XML2 DEDOMED, TOM E

.
BTU – XML2 DEOMED IOS DRIVER

.
THRUNITE TN31 – W/XML2 DEDOMED, VINH 6.5A (a little bug trail on left)

Edited by: rdrfronty on 11/03/2013 - 15:35
unknown00101
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First, thanks. Incredible amount of awesome and effort!

Just pointing it out:
The Ultrafire c8 listing has L instead of K in throw.

I think I recall this setup from the previous thread. That helped a ton when I was first looking into these amazing flashlights. Now having a bit more knowledge I can better appreciate what goes into these creations.

totilde
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That btu modded by Tom e is awesome! I love it

Mooooooo

Tom E
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Awesome job, again!!

DB Custom
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Great set of lights, very nice photos! There’s some serious effort represented there, on y’all part as well as others, well done. Wink

GottaZoom
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Can I suggest maybe adding a link or two to the OP? First, a link to the last testing session would help to find what you refer to as being updated. If that link doesn’t have the table with data, that would be another link that would be great to add.

Heh, that XPG2 C8 caught my also. Is there a thread somewhere on that XPG2 C8?

rdrfronty
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GottaZoom wrote:
Can I suggest maybe adding a link or two to the OP? First, a link to the last testing session would help to find what you refer to as being updated. If that link doesn’t have the table with data, that would be another link that would be great to add.

Heh, that XPG2 C8 caught my also. Is there a thread somewhere on that XPG2 C8?


Well I linked the older thread with this page. There is nothing on the old page that’s not covered here. I tried to update that thread but it didn’t list with new info or post. I guess now that I think about it I should have just “bumped” the old thread. But I was not thinking.
As for the XPG2 C8 – we don’t really have any special threads on it. It’s brothers light that Tom E worked his usual magic on. Is there specific info you are wondering about it? I’m sure either I, Tom, or manxbuggy1 can help on any details if needed.
rdrfronty
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Updated first post with dates when all shots were taken.

Tom E
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GottaZoom wrote:
Heh, that XPG2 C8 caught my also. Is there a thread somewhere on that XPG2 C8?

Nothing too special. XPG type reflector, XP-G2 R5 de-domed on 20mm copper (Noctigon I believe), Nanjg with stacked chips, thinking maybe 3.5A or 3.85A, 22 gauge wires, copper added in the pill, and running a hot cell like the Samsung 20R. I know at the time, I can't seem to get hiigh amps out of a single cell with a XP-G2 de-domed. Believe I saw that in this light and my Convoy C8 (same setup, same results), and with a UF T20 - maybe 2 of them I did.

DBSAR
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Nice shots ! im guessing the Kung i have must be a good one as it beats out all my other kings in throw and flood stock, and the one your showing seems dimmer and weaker than the others.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

manxbuggy1
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DenBarrettSAR wrote:
Nice shots ! im guessing the Kung i have must be a good one as it beats out all my other kings in throw and flood stock, and the one your showing seems dimmer and weaker than the others.

Yes either your Kung is strong or your Kings are weak because stock both rdr’s U2 and my T6 king beat his Kung in both lumens and throw. After Dale (DMCstm) got through with it, it’s a different story. It is a beast. So is the the King he modded though.

rdrfronty
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I think my Kungs main issue was its very pathetic wires. The kings were bad too though, but perhaps trying to get power to all 4 emitters it just couldn’t handle it. The wires were 32g at best.
But now both lights are great. Both tested consist before and after modding – King is & was more powerful in lumens and throw, but the Kung is superior in being a floody little beast. The other interesting tidbit is my King is a non Torroid driver, but the Kung has one. So the drivers arn’t as critical as most have claimed.
I’m sure the sellers of these lights greatly vary in their construction. Different wiring, different LED’s, and better or worse assembly. So kings and Kungs are always a crap shoot on how they do. If any of them are tweaked with better wiring, LEDs, and thermal paste, they will perform nicely.
I also found out in testing last night that even these little kings with 4 cells are picky about better cells. I’ve been running some “ok” 2500mah protected Eagletacs in my kings and Kungs for eons. Well when I tried the ET’s in one light last night it consistantly measured about 600 lumens less than with my Keeppower 3400’s or Panasonic 3400’s. I switched them several times back and forth and they read like that very time. And those Eagletacs are not that old or used. Only about 1.5yr old and perhaps 10 charge cycles. So anyway, with better wiring, I’m thinking these little lights are putting out a little more than the typical 2-2.5a per LED. But I haven’t tested them on tailcap amps since modded. I do need to do that.

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The other way around, your SkyRay King has a toroid on the driver, which stopped me from adding a 1/4” disc of aluminum under the threaded shelf the emitters sit on.

The Kung has a nice simple board, very little actually on it. This allowed me to add additional heat sinking as there was more space.

The SkyRay King is very fancy on the outside, with inadequate heat sinking by far…only a thin (approx 1/16”) aluminum disc with like 2 threads on the outer edge so that it screws into place. The Kung has sides to the disc that holds the emitters, giving it more threads and more contact with the head. I also added that 1/4” of aluminum to assist it. In both cases, I was very surprised to see the head a hollow tube, with this thin disc threaded in to make the support shelf for the emitters.

GottaZoom
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Tom E wrote:

GottaZoom wrote:
Heh, that XPG2 C8 caught my also. Is there a thread somewhere on that XPG2 C8?

Nothing too special. XPG type reflector, XP-G2 R5 de-domed on 20mm copper (Noctigon I believe), Nanjg with stacked chips, thinking maybe 3.5A or 3.85A, 22 gauge wires, copper added in the pill, and running a hot cell like the Samsung 20R. I know at the time, I can’t seem to get hiigh amps out of a single cell with a XP-G2 de-domed. Believe I saw that in this light and my Convoy C8 (same setup, same results), and with a UF T20 - maybe 2 of them I did.

Thanks Tom & RDF. I’m not sure with a C8 I’d want much higher draw anyway. I was mostly interested in the components , so this is great info. That C8 just performs.

RDF, I was thinking one of your posts had a table with some extra info that gave battery and maybe a little more build info; and that it had a few more smaller lights, so just a suggestion. I’m actually glad you started a new thread. (I wish most pics were in the first reply so they don’t d/l after the first page – but that might be weird, too. The warning is good!)

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DBCstm wrote:
The other way around, your SkyRay King has a toroid on the driver, which stopped me from adding a 1/4” disc of aluminum under the threaded shelf the emitters sit on.

The Kung has a nice simple board, very little actually on it. This allowed me to add additional heat sinking as there was more space.

The SkyRay King is very fancy on the outside, with inadequate heat sinking by far…only a thin (approx 1/16”) aluminum disc with like 2 threads on the outer edge so that it screws into place. The Kung has sides to the disc that holds the emitters, giving it more threads and more contact with the head. I also added that 1/4” of aluminum to assist it. In both cases, I was very surprised to see the head a hollow tube, with this thin disc threaded in to make the support shelf for the emitters.


But Dale, this top photo is of the Kung, not the King. The Kings driver is the bottom shot.
rdrfronty
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GottaZoom wrote:
Tom E wrote:

GottaZoom wrote:
Heh, that XPG2 C8 caught my also. Is there a thread somewhere on that XPG2 C8?

Nothing too special. XPG type reflector, XP-G2 R5 de-domed on 20mm copper (Noctigon I believe), Nanjg with stacked chips, thinking maybe 3.5A or 3.85A, 22 gauge wires, copper added in the pill, and running a hot cell like the Samsung 20R. I know at the time, I can’t seem to get hiigh amps out of a single cell with a XP-G2 de-domed. Believe I saw that in this light and my Convoy C8 (same setup, same results), and with a UF T20 - maybe 2 of them I did.

Thanks Tom & RDF. I’m not sure with a C8 I’d want much higher draw anyway. I was mostly interested in the components , so this is great info. That C8 just performs.

RDF, I was thinking one of your posts had a table with some extra info that gave battery and maybe a little more build info; and that it had a few more smaller lights, so just a suggestion. I’m actually glad you started a new thread. (I wish most pics were in the first reply so they don’t d/l after the first page – but that might be weird, too. The warning is good!)


I do have some older threads that’s lots of smaller lights. Just look back at some of my older threads. I especially have lots of little lights on my data sheets I de periodically when we do lumen and lux testing. If you can’t find the ones you looking for, just PM me and I’ll see if ai can find what your looking for.
However, brother and I are intending to possible do a small – medium light beamshot page down the road. But not sure if we have enough to justify doing them again. It would be perhaps 25m and 100m shots or something along those lines. We have to research that a bit.
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rdrfronty wrote:
I think my Kungs main issue was its very pathetic wires. The kings were bad too though, but perhaps trying to get power to all 4 emitters it just couldn’t handle it. The wires were 32g at best. But now both lights are great. Both tested consist before and after modding – King is & was more powerful in lumens and throw, but the Kung is superior in being a floody little beast. The other interesting tidbit is my King is a non Torroid driver, but the Kung has one. So the drivers arn’t as critical as most have claimed. I’m sure the sellers of these lights greatly vary in their construction. Different wiring, different LED’s, and better or worse assembly. So kings and Kungs are always a crap shoot on how they do. If any of them are tweaked with better wiring, LEDs, and thermal paste, they will perform nicely. I also found out in testing last night that even these little kings with 4 cells are picky about better cells. I’ve been running some “ok” 2500mah protected Eagletacs in my kings and Kungs for eons. Well when I tried the ET’s in one light last night it consistantly measured about 600 lumens less than with my Keeppower 3400’s or Panasonic 3400’s. I switched them several times back and forth and they read like that very time. And those Eagletacs are not that old or used. Only about 1.5yr old and perhaps 10 charge cycles. So anyway, with better wiring, I’m thinking these little lights are putting out a little more than the typical 2-2.5a per LED. But I haven’t tested them on tailcap amps since modded. I do need to do that.

i must have got lucky with a “throwier” Kung too. Smile as the kung i have is noticibly floodier, brighter, and throws further with a tigher hot spot than my two Kings and the 6-XM-L King.

  • As seen here from a recent comparison review i did on them)

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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Really? I thought the Kung was all black and relatively simple in design, where the King was grey with a red anodized ring around the switch? My memory, can’t be trusted.

The black one with 3 emitters has the non-toroid driver and the additional heat sink. The grey one has 4 emitters and a toroid. Whatever their names are. I seem to have gotten that confused somehow, probably because they’re so close together. But when I sent PM’s telling what had been done the light was in hand, man I gotta tell ya it’s rough getting old! lol

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DBCstm wrote:
Really? I thought the Kung was all black and relatively simple in design, where the King was grey with a red anodized ring around the switch? My memory, can’t be trusted.

The black one with 3 emitters has the non-toroid driver and the additional heat sink. The grey one has 4 emitters and a toroid. Whatever their names are. I seem to have gotten that confused somehow, probably because they’re so close together. But when I sent PM’s telling what had been done the light was in hand, man I gotta tell ya it’s rough getting old! lol


You got the colors and descriptions correct, but the black 3 led one is a SR King purchased from CNQ. Actually unlabeled though. The grey 4 led light is a SR Kung that was purchased from eBay not that long ago.
Just tested amps on both lights using heavy gauge leads, batteries direct on head/driver with no battery tube. The results -
King (black, simple driver, 3 led) – 7.9A
Kung (gray, torroid driver, 4 led) – 6.9A
That testing method is a little difficult to do, so it could be a little off. But I tested both about 3 times using the same batteries (3400 KP’s) and consistently the 3 LED King was about 1a higher.
Of course guys this test was in the modded lights with the xml2’s on copper (Noctigons) and 22g wires everywhere along with good thermal paste. Shouldn’t be too much loss to LEDs themselves.
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DenBarrettSAR wrote:
rdrfronty wrote:
I think my Kungs main issue was its very pathetic wires. The kings were bad too though, but perhaps trying to get power to all 4 emitters it just couldn’t handle it. The wires were 32g at best. But now both lights are great. Both tested consist before and after modding – King is & was more powerful in lumens and throw, but the Kung is superior in being a floody little beast. The other interesting tidbit is my King is a non Torroid driver, but the Kung has one. So the drivers arn’t as critical as most have claimed. I’m sure the sellers of these lights greatly vary in their construction. Different wiring, different LED’s, and better or worse assembly. So kings and Kungs are always a crap shoot on how they do. If any of them are tweaked with better wiring, LEDs, and thermal paste, they will perform nicely. I also found out in testing last night that even these little kings with 4 cells are picky about better cells. I’ve been running some “ok” 2500mah protected Eagletacs in my kings and Kungs for eons. Well when I tried the ET’s in one light last night it consistantly measured about 600 lumens less than with my Keeppower 3400’s or Panasonic 3400’s. I switched them several times back and forth and they read like that very time. And those Eagletacs are not that old or used. Only about 1.5yr old and perhaps 10 charge cycles. So anyway, with better wiring, I’m thinking these little lights are putting out a little more than the typical 2-2.5a per LED. But I haven’t tested them on tailcap amps since modded. I do need to do that.

i must have got lucky with a “throwier” Kung too. Smile as the kung i have is noticibly floodier, brighter, and throws further with a tigher hot spot than my two Kings and the 6-XM-L King.


I agree your shots look like your 4 led light is the throwier and floodier of the bunch. Weird. Of course if I changed drivers between my lights and give the Kung a 1amp boost it would win in lumens for sure. Throw I’m still not sure about.
Weird little lights. But I love them all anyway Smile
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I have a second Skyray Kung order and on the way ( to be a host for a project light) so i will see if that one is different from the Kung i have in the pics above.
I did notice that the emitter wires on the Kung i have somwhat heavier wires than the description you mentioned in your Kung, they appear to be around # 22 or # 20 guage wires in the stock one i have.

rdrfronty wrote:
I agree your shots look like your 4 led light is the throwier and floodier of the bunch. Weird. Of course if I changed drivers between my lights and give the Kung a 1amp boost it would win in lumens for sure. Throw I’m still not sure about. Weird little lights. But I love them all anyway Smile

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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thats quite a collection you got there. great choice of lights and thanks for the tedious work that this must have been.
so does the modded king and kungs get hot quicker now too?

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Thanks guys for the fantastic shots and effort. Again you have excelled in your little project. You both have a very unique collection.

 

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