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djozz
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hatman wrote:
How hard do I have to study to get my D4 to just turn on high?

Party Welcome to modern flashlights! Facepalm
hatman
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JasonWW wrote:
hatman wrote:
How hard do I have to study to get my D4 to just turn on high?

Do you mean high or the highest “turbo”?

Double click from on or off should do that.

Or if you turn it off at the highest, one click will turn it back on in that same brightness. So its pretty easy.

I tend to go to highest, then ramp it down just a hair and leave it there. This gives you like 90% brightness, but longer run times and less heat.

If it’s memorized to come on a really high setting and you want to turn it on at a low setting, just turn it on by pressing and holding. This will turn it on in moonlight and begin ramping up. It’s good for when you don’t want to mess up your night vision.

Thanks — mine should be here early next week.

chooma
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First time i tried 4 clicks i got to lockout but i dont know how i got out of it.
Now i cant repeat the lockout as it now gives me momentary at its highest brightness.

And yes, double cluck from on or off gives turbo.

chooma
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I turned it off at its highest then turned it back on and it goes to lowest.
Maybe im doing something wrong.

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chooma wrote:
I turned it off at its highest then turned it back on and it goes to lowest.
Maybe im doing something wrong.

Assuming memory is turned on, just ramp it up to where you want and turn it off.

If you are at the lowest, for example, then double click to get turbo, then turn off. It will have the lowest memorized. So try ramping it to where you want.

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chooma
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How do you get into memory mode?

JasonWW
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I’m not sure memory is turned on by default. The narsil cheat sheet posted earlier says it’s turned off by default at least for “modes”.

Maybe I turned memory on for my light? I can’t remember.

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JasonWW
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chooma wrote:
How do you get into memory mode?

Memory is a setting you can turn on and off depending on whether you want it to have memory.

On my light I hold the button for 8 seconds and it does the fast double, then 1 blink, pause, etc…

When it gets to double, then 5 blinks I click the button twice. It will blink twice to confirm, (on setting 5, 1 click is disable and 2 clicks is enable and it shows 1 is default) then you can let it finish going through the rest of the menu.

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DB Custom
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I avoided the complex UI’s for a long time because my memory is so bad. With over 100 lights, it’s difficult to remember which has which UI. But of course now I have Narsil and Bistro and Biscotti and Guppydrv and the Nitecore mismash and and and…. I try to download pdf owners manuals and UI guides so I can refresh my memory if I am using a light that’s tricking me. The cheat sheet is a good idea, if I can remember it’s under the tail cap. lol

I love ramping, so I haven’t changed my Narsil light to date.

chooma
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Ahhhhh…got to give it a break….the 8 click thing does not work on my lights.

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Here is the cheatsheet again for this page.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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JasonWW
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chooma wrote:
Ahhhhh…got to give it a break….the 8 click thing does not work on my lights.

I think you mean click and hold for 8 seconds to get into the menu.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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JasonWW
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DB Custom wrote:
I avoided the complex UI’s for a long time because my memory is so bad. With over 100 lights, it’s difficult to remember which has which UI. But of course now I have Narsil and Bistro and Biscotti and Guppydrv and the Nitecore mismash and and and…. I try to download pdf owners manuals and UI guides so I can refresh my memory if I am using a light that’s tricking me. The cheat sheet is a good idea, if I can remember it’s under the tail cap. lol

I love ramping, so I haven’t changed my Narsil light to date.


I hear ya.

I try to take pictures of the pdf and keep it on my phone. That way I always have it.

On my L6 with Narsil I tried out the modes, but ramping is way better. The only thing I remember trying to change in the menu was to turn off all strobes. Unfortunately you can’t when using ramping, it’s a glitch. No big deal though.

I got my driver from Lexel, so he must have set my memory to “enable”. I don’t remember doing it.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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JasonWW
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I forgot what thread I was on. I didn’t post my video here. Check it out. This shows some narsil basics.

I plan to make a video showing the menu setup, but haven’t had time yet.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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CRX
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- LEDs & Other Stuff -  - UI CheatSheets -  - CRX Mods & Builds -  - Stuff for Sale -CRX Hand Made FlashlightsThe only place that fear can exist is in our thoughts of the future.
It is a product of our imagination causing us to fear things that do not presently and may never exist. Fear is a choice.

EasyB
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I’ve changed all my lights to ramping UI. I like to put in a reference blink at a particular duty cycle that corresponds to ~1 hour runtime. I find just that one reference helps a lot in knowing how much power you are using.

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EasyB wrote:
I’ve changed all my lights to ramping UI.

That is easier said than done.

I just want to wave a magic wand over all my lights to switch them to ramping. Lol

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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EasyB
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JasonWW wrote:
EasyB wrote:
I’ve changed all my lights to ramping UI.

That is easier said than done.

I just want to wave a magic wand over all my lights to switch them to ramping. Lol

True. You have to take the plunge and learn to compile and flash FW. I use Toykeeper’s Crescendo FW for clicky switch lights and her e-switch ramping FW for the others. I haven’t tried Tom E.‘s narsil yet, but I might buy one of these little quad hotrods.

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Just wanted to say thanks to RMM for another pleasant transaction. Another order placed on a monday delivered on friday. Looking forward to installing the xhp70.2 and seeing how it compares to the now deceased xhp70 it will replace.

The xhp70 failed due to impatience. After reflowing it to a maxtoch 32mm board and assembling the light I neglected to clean the dome. At about 2 1/2 minutes in turbo mode a stream of smoke and black spot appeared. Facepalm

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troisanh
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tekwyzrd wrote:
Just wanted to say thanks to RMM for another pleasant transaction. Another order placed on a monday delivered on friday. Looking forward to installing the xhp70.2 and seeing how it compares to the now deceased xhp70 it will replace.

The xhp70 failed due to impatience. After reflowing it to a maxtoch 32mm board and assembling the light I neglected to clean the dome. At about 2 1/2 minutes in turbo mode a stream of smoke and black spot appeared. Facepalm


Best excuse to upgrade to newer LED! Evil
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For everyone with questions about the new Emisar D4, I have answers:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/55306

The firmware is not Narsil. It’s similar, and it’s based on Narsil, but there are some significant differences.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
For everyone with questions about the new Emisar D4, I have answers:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/55306

The firmware is not Narsil. It’s similar, and it’s based on Narsil, but there are some significant differences.


Ah, thanks for clearing up the firmware.

It seems it doesn’t have memory at all. That’s a bumner.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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Different lights with different UI is what drove me to buying mostly Vinh modified lights with driverVN. They allow me to select output groups but they still work basically the same. Bad memory proof. I am going to get a D4 though. Two Q8’s and a GT also. I will have to add the UI for these on to the cheat sheet I have saved on my phone. That cheat sheet is getting pretty long.

T18
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Received all my new lights today, very nice indeed, and real happy to see all the talk here about UI, I didn’t follow anything on this light so all I know it’s a Hank design so all I have is M43 in mind for UI but that’s hardly the case I see.
Really they should have put a note in the box with a link to UI at least.
Will be following TK’s link I saw, thank you.. TK..!!
Thankfully and contrary to much belief I am not so stupid I couldn’t turn it on simple enough, but after that I’m thinking “OK” is that it..??
This is designed by Hank, there has to be more than ramp up and down and a double click to turbo and I’m sure there is so will look at the links here later.

The shorty tubes are great, the 18650 tubes should have had knurling ribs like the shorty tubes just something IMO, very very smooth, dropped the light taking it out of the box, dry hands and a very smooth ano, but thought of an instant fix for that, heat shrink tubing in black and done right it should look good and have that rubbery feel.

The best thing though was the shipping from Richard,
Sure am glad he decided to do the pre-order idea of “MINE” ha ha,
Received the notice from Mt. my order had shipped and it took about 2-3 days until I got a email message this morning from tracking USPS, “You have a package at your front door” Yippee… ran for the door and I don’t run for anything, well except mail from Richard .. LOL
Thank You Very Much Mr. Richard, you have such a awesome company.

These are nice lights and running this light with the short tube and the new Aspires it is nice and small, really small, very pocket friendly and puts out some light. Don’t even need any clip in short or tall mode frankly, just drop in in your pocket.


T18
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Thanks for that link TK, just messing around I had already figured out up to six click lock out, so this is a really nice UI for sure, not near as complicated as I had thought with it coming from Hank, thinking M43 which is my favorite UI so just using those thoughts and trying some of those meteor UI clicks I found most of Tom’s UI, this is GREAT… nicest UI I think I own actually, simple but really gets the job done nicely.

Edit: Saw a comment about whether or not this switch could activate in your pocket, my answer would be most likely, and even though the lock out feature is easy enough, the loosen the tail cap lock out is easier yet, fits in the pocket very comfortably, especially in shorty tube style, it’s smaller than the S41/S41S quad in 18350 by 1/3 easy, take the tail switch off the S41 and then you have the size of this D4 in 350 size, thanks to side switch.

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^^^ Nice! That’s how you do it alright; just get three of them, pow pow, you know it’s quality alright! Thumbs Up
Yeah M43 number one alright. I love UI1. Party

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Hi Richard, mtnelectronics boss. I am newlumen. I tried to order shockli 26650 qty 4 and enova falcon all 88, but the shipping came out $17.. I don’t want to spend $17 on shipping.. is there anyway can you cut the shipping?? Maybe like use 7 days ground?? My zip code is 89503. Lmk. Thanks.
Newlumen.

T18
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Read through TK’s review, quit awesome of course but I am having issues with one of my lights if not all of my lights, depends how you look at it.
The S4 2B if ramped up to max or double clicked to turbo will stay on max for approx 5-10 seconds and drop like a rock straight to the lowest low or to moonlight.
I have fiddled around with the 10/11 click thermal and will only get about 4 flashes following the long click, so then try to see if the 2S 2B will stay on turbo any longer than 5 seconds or until it at least starts to get warm but it won’t.
But, if after I double click to max and then after it drops to dead low or moonlight, if I then following the drop just hold the switch it will step back up to turbo and then stay there until it gets to unbearable hot to hold mode.

My XPL will stay in turbo until you are forced to shut it off and same with the Nichia, 3 lights total.

Had some thick rubberized shrink tubing so put a piece the length of the battery tube and now that is nice, gives some grip and a spongy rubber feeling.

I also can not or won’t actually take the bezel off, I started to attempt to remove it, of course, but only after making sure I let them cool down,
I have done some of my best dedomes by not letting multi emitter lights cool down enough and then try and remove the bezel, but what I’m seeing here is the bezel turns fine on all 3 lights but even with using my rubber thumb thingy to hold down on the optics while turning the bezel I still see the complete optics turning,
I am wondering if there is glass on top of the optic lens, if there is then it should not move the optic, feels real smooth like glass,
I’m worried how far I can go before I start ripping wires, I have some trits I’d like to plant in there, but will just hold off for now, hope someone can at least tell me how to enable or disable the thermal at least, did find that work around for the drop from turbo to moonlight which is good to have discovered but still it doesn’t seem to be working properly.
The XPL will get scorching hot fast, and after reading TK’s take on the thermal management which sounds real good, I am not seeing any of that with any on the lights I just got, like maybe no thermal management at all or so it seems, should have been able to figure this out easy enough but not so at the moment.

Edit: Truthfully the thermal management is only an issue because it says there is thermal management, I frankly do not really care I guess, I am smart enough to know when I just don’t care to burn my fingers any longer and I will step it down all on my own, sooner or later, smart hey..?

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T18 wrote:
I am having issues with one of my lights if not all of my lights, depends how you look at it. … will stay on max for approx 5-10 seconds and drop like a rock straight to the lowest low or to moonlight. … stay there until it gets to unbearable hot to hold mode. … I am wondering if there is glass on top of the optic lens…

There is glass on top of the optics. On both of mine, there is also an O-ring between the optic and the glass, so they will try to rotate together. I wonder if perhaps the O-ring was supposed to go on the outside of the glass instead.

Anyway, I just did some thermal testing. It takes way too long to step down. I’ll be fixing this ASAP. Smile

I didn’t see the sudden drop to the lowest level, though. That’s odd.

BTW, to turn thermal stepdown on or off, click 11 times pretty quickly, and hold the last one until it blinks. Two blinks means you turned it off, four blinks means you turned it on. But in either case, it gets too hot… so don’t rely on it. I don’t think it’ll damage itself, but it could definitely get hot enough to burn skin.

T18
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Moved comments re: thermal management and D4 to appropriate thread

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