MTN Electronics: LEDs - Batteries - Lights - Chargers - Hosts - Drivers - Components - 1-Stop-US Source

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RMM
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steel_1024 wrote:
vwpieces wrote:
Think I spoke too soon on all is well... The long press on to moon is too dim, not completely illuminating the 4 dies. Not sure why.
May be caused by 7135 !https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4350/36394565163_6f7736489f_z.jpg!

 

Actually, we adjust the firmwares for each new batch of 7135s we receive, so that isn't the issue.  We buy them thousands at a time direct from the manufacturer so we don't have to change that often, but each batch is slightly different so we have different moonlight PWM levels we adjust for each batch.  

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DB Custom
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FTR, I replaced the springs in the TK75 carrier for manxbuggy1’s M6, bypassed all 8 springs, and it now makes 13,558.5 lumens at start on freshly charged button top Samsung 30Q cells. Big Smile

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Richard is a nice guy.. I ordered 8 of 26650, enova all-88 charger, d4 and etc last night.. I paid the $23 shipping which I think it’s ridiculously high.. lol . He shipped out the order very fast this morning.. he also refunded $12 shipping.. so the actual shipping cost is $11.. I am very happy it..

Richard is the guy who actually take care of his customers..

RMM
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Thanks Newlumen.  

I know that everyone that has been around a while knows this, but if you are charged significantly more than what it costs to ship your order(s), we will refund the difference.  

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Lazy-R-us
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RMM wrote:

Thanks Newlumen.  


I know that everyone that has been around a while knows this, but if you are charged significantly more than what it costs to ship your order(s), we will refund the difference.  


And shipping will likely be EXCEPTIONALLY fast. I placed an order for 3 LM2596 chargers Tuesday, and got them Thursday. I have to pay Amazon a hunnert bucks a year to get two day service. Mtn just does it.

Thanks.

Lazy-R-us

T18
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A C8 with a SST40 and bistro..? Sweet..! Thank you Richard, that’s two of your builds I’ve been lucky enough to get my hands on.
I love the way you build, spring bypasses and screw down on the mcpcb, that SST40 heats up and I thought about using the TM but when I went to set it up I started a timer and at over 5 minutes and inside with no air movement and I can still hold the light it is fine without TM especially if outside,
I’ve wondered about these emitters and now I know, I think they are great, really nice build RMM, thanks again..!
Really is Awesome, 2000lms.. fully agreed, hot spot a bit fat, wondering if a butterfly centering ring will place that SST40 a bit further up into the reflector, it’s not bad at all as is that’s for sure and normally I’d never buy cool white tint but this tint is different, this is a really nice cool white maybe 6000k..? or is it my imagination.?.

Sent you the 3 D4 heads for re-flash finally just the other day with a note to hold the D1 I have on pre-order and if able send all together for return shipping.
Put in a couple a bucks to cover the cost of solder or return shipping, do not return the money..!! Please.!
Thank you Richard, oh, also got the Shockli’s today and two nice cases as well, very fast shipping as always and always a pleasure doing business with you sir..

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I received my enova all-88, emisar d4, shockli 26650 button top and some windyfire today. Thank you for the fast $11 shipping.
IMG_20170915_192023092

RMM
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Thanks everyone!  Have a great weekend!

P.S. For those of you who pre-ordered the D1, we have received some of the lights and after testing will begin shipping them on Monday. We expect that all pre-orders will be shipped by the 22nd, but some of you will be receiving your lights sooner than that.  smile

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John-Galt
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RMM wrote:

John-Galt wrote:
Hi, RMM. Any idea when you might have Shockli 5500 mAh 26650’s back in stock? Thanks…

Hopefully soon.

Hi, Richard. I received 2 of these from you this week. Thank you for carrying them. At 26.7mm they are a little fatter than some other 26650’s but they fit my DQG tiny 26650 3th perfectly. 2 days from order to arrival in Cali is outstanding.
Thanks again…

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RMM wrote:

Thanks everyone!  Have a great weekend!


P.S. For those of you who pre-ordered the D1, we have received some of the lights and after testing will begin shipping them on Monday. We expect that all pre-orders will be shipped by the 22nd, but some of you will be receiving your lights sooner than that.  smile


I didn’t see any mention of the driver design or how much power it has. Is it a constant current driver or fet?

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RMM
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Jason, it is the exact same FET+7135 driver and firmware (D4 V2) as the D4 has.  

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RMM wrote:

Jason, it is the exact same FET+7135 driver and firmware (D4 V2) as the D4 has.  


Okay, thanks.

Does that mean it’s pushing 1,600 lumen?

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twodollarbill
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Hey Richard, any word on getting more nichia D4s in stock?

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HELP!!!! Shocked

I recently purchased some drivers from Mountain Electronics with the D4 ui installed.

I purchased the following:

15mm: MTN15DDm
17mm: MTN17DDm-NUV
20mm: MTN20DDm

Went to install one of the 17mm ones today and couldn’t figure out where to connect the e-switch wires. There are no pictures on your website showing where the e-switch wires are supposed to attach to the driver. I tried experimenting and couldn’t figure it out. Without a picture showing where to attach the e-switch wires these drivers are useless to me.

Does anyone have any pictures?

Thanks.

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Firelight2 wrote:
HELP!!!! Shocked

I recently purchased some drivers from Mountain Electronics with the D4 ui installed.

I purchased the following:

15mm: MTN15DDm
17mm: MTN17DDm-NUV
20mm: MTN20DDm

Went to install one of the 17mm ones today and couldn’t figure out where to connect the e-switch wires. There are no pictures on your website showing where the e-switch wires are supposed to attach to the driver. I tried experimenting and couldn’t figure it out. Without a picture showing where to attach the e-switch wires these drivers are useless to me.

Does anyone have any pictures?

Thanks.


The website says to put one switch wire to ground.

The other switch wire goes to a pre tinned pad next to pin 2. Do you see a pad next to a P2 label? He might be referring to pin 2 of the mcu.

The mcu is the 8 legged chip.

I can see some pads next to the leg at the 3:30 position.

I don’t see any pads on the other drivers in that location. You might have to wait for someone who has actually used these drivers. I haven’t. Lol

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I found it.

One wire goes to pin2 on the MCU. The MCU is the rightmost large structure on the board in the picture in the previous post. Pin 2 is second from the left in the bottom row. The other wire can connect to anywhere on the outer ring or to any contact pad that has a direct connection to the outer ring.

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If it uses the same layout as the original D4 driver, the e-switch should probably go on the pads for the OTC. And you can probably reduce standby power by removing R1 or R2 so that nothing will be connected to pin 7.

I’d have to double check the layout to be sure, but IIRC that’s what the D4 code expects.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
If it uses the same layout as the original D4 driver, the e-switch should probably go on the pads for the OTC. And you can probably reduce standby power by removing R1 or R2 so that nothing will be connected to pin 7.

I’d have to double check the layout to be sure, but IIRC that’s what the D4 code expects.


He bought non D4 drivers with the D4 software on them.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
If it uses the same layout as the original D4 driver, the e-switch should probably go on the pads for the OTC. And you can probably reduce standby power by removing R1 or R2 so that nothing will be connected to pin 7.

I’d have to double check the layout to be sure, but IIRC that’s what the D4 code expects.

The driver shipped with those 2 resistors not installed (the 2 resistors in the left side of the picture above).

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Okay, nice. The missing resistors are a feature, not a bug. Smile

I don’t know if RMM re-compiled it to use pin 3 for the switch, but the original build used pin 2. It’s easy enough to test though; connect LEDs and power, and ground one pin or the other to see if it responds.

I find it very difficult to get a wire to stick to the tiny pads on pin 3, but the OTC pads are bigger and easier… and the OTC isn’t used by the D4 code so it doesn’t really need to be there. I’ve never tried having a capacitor on the switch pin, but RMM says it works fine.

With those changes the driver will, of course, not be usable for older firmwares which require an OTC or voltage divider. But it sounds like that will be okay.

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Remind me, what does OTC stand for?

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OTC = offtime capacitor, used for measuring time while power is disconnected, on lights with a power switch instead of e-switch.

It’s required for bistro and blf-a6 and a few others, but has been far less common in newer firmwares because it uses up a pin and is prone to heat-related variation and is no longer required to detect short vs long button presses. (still required for short/med/long though, except in the case of bistro-HD, which requires very specific other hardware)

Also, totally unrelated… oops. I waited too long to order 30Q cells… again. I suppose I should still order without them though, unless they’re expected to come back in stock soon.

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Solder the switch wires on the OTC.  

Leaving OTC on the board does nothing to affect power drain.  Once it charges, it is charged and does not act like a short circuit.

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RMM
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twodollarbill wrote:
Hey Richard, any word on getting more nichia D4s in stock?

Ordered a few weeks ago---probably arriving this week or next week.  

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DB Custom
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I solder the switch lead directly to the MCU pin, very rare for me to reflash an MCU after the light is built. I’ve seen times when it was pin 3, times when it was pin 2, so that get’s confusing to me but a pair of tweezers to “toggle” the switch off either 2 or 3 tells the story pretty quick. Wink [4 is ground, easy to touch tweezers to 2 and 4 or 3 and 4 to act as the switch, just a touch of course, like clicking the e-switch… unless it’s a ramping firmware then hold for ramp]

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RMM wrote:

Solder the switch wires on the OTC.  


Some pictures with arrows pointing to the solder pads for the E’switch might be really helpful.

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Richard, any chance you’ll be stocking any more high (I think the highest available is 80?) CRI XM-L2? I’m in need of several.

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Also, I see the page on the website for the SST-40, just no stock listed yet… Thumbs Up

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I was browsing around the site last night and also noticed the SST-40 page. Look forward to seeing what bins/tints you can get your hands on. I really like the SST-40s I have from somewhere else.

Any chance of stocking the Luxeon V in the future? Maybe even get some DTP boards made for it? Djozz did a test on one using an XP board and the performance and tint look really good.

RMM
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sac02 wrote:
Richard, any chance you'll be stocking any more high (I think the highest available is 80?) CRI XM-L2? I'm in need of several.

Maybe some more of the 5xx series, but the rest, probably not.  There are 90 CRI XM-L2 available, but the XM-L2 is starting to get long in the tooth.

The SST-40 is only available in cool white for now, but more tints will become available in the future.

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