MTN Electronics: LEDs - Batteries - Lights - Chargers - Hosts - Drivers - Components - 1-Stop-US Source

8357 posts / 0 new
Last post
staticx57
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 29 min ago
Joined: 04/11/2016 - 00:43
Posts: 678
Location: New Jersey, United States

Congratulations!!!!

Skylight
Skylight's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 38 min ago
Joined: 10/01/2018 - 04:49
Posts: 330
Location: Europe

Congratulations!

I have got a question about two of my MTNElectronics drivers: I mounted the 20mm 7135 driver in a cheap zooming light, it worked well for quite a long time but after I screwed it up recently there is only one of seven modes left. I already controlled for a short and unintentional direct drive but found nothing. My 26mm FET+7135 driver works well with an XHP70.2 but a minute after turn-on it starts a slight and continious annoying flickering. How could I resolve that? All suggestions are welcome! Grad

Always looking for: used or damaged flashlights for repair and MODDING

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 2 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20324
Location: Heart of Texas

And a hearty Congratulations to Mother and Daughter from here as well, I know it has been rough but praying y’all see a much smoother ride ahead. Smile

I have the new boost driver in an L2 pushing the XHP-35 HI and love it, very nice to be able to maintain the single cell form factor that I so love in this light and still get the great lumens and punch of the 35 emitter. Thank you Richard!

Gunga
Gunga's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 3 min ago
Joined: 11/28/2014 - 16:56
Posts: 1821
Location: Vancouver, Canada

Congrats! We all know that the nursery will be well lit!

Smile

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 13 sec ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 3656
Location: California

Congrats!!!!! Party

troisanh
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 1 week ago
Joined: 02/24/2013 - 07:19
Posts: 746
Location: midwest

congrats.

hyperduc
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 03/02/2018 - 00:34
Posts: 31
Location: United States

Congrats Richard!

Do you know when you expect more qlite 17mm 6135 drivers? I hope you do plan on receiving more… used one in my last S2+ build and it works perfect.
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_11...

Just placed an order with parts for a new build but still need a driver. Planning a Convoy M1 + 219C 90CRI + qlite. Although I just started reading about the LH351D and I may switch to that emitter instead since it seems to have a bit better output.

BlueSwordM
BlueSwordM's picture
Offline
Last seen: 42 min 2 sec ago
Joined: 11/29/2017 - 12:34
Posts: 5398
Location: Canada

Oh, guys, BTW, Richard has put up for sale some high current Beryllium Copper springs on his website:
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id...

This means most people won’t have to bypass their driver springs anymore, and go on with their time.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

gchart
gchart's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 4 min ago
Joined: 03/19/2016 - 11:57
Posts: 1728
Location: Central IL

Nice!

Oh, and while I was there, I noticed he also added Flat White LEDs (both bare and mounted) as well as spacers to fit the Flat White (7mm opening: Convoy C8, L2, S2+, etc).

jdvoracek
jdvoracek's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 1 day ago
Joined: 02/09/2018 - 15:19
Posts: 5
Location: Texas, USA

My son and I assembled a 17mm MTN-BST2 Boost Driver Convoy C8+ with Cree XHP70.2 4000K. We added the $2+ extra orange peel reflector which removes almost all of the donut seen with the stock polished reflector. A homebuilt spacer with some widening of the reflector hole was necessary for this 7 mm LED of course. We ordered the full input/full output boost driver current options for this build, and on 100% output, using a Sony VTC we witnessed first hand proof of the need to bypass the spring. After some seconds, the output started to seriously sag at 100% out. When we went to add the bypass, it was obvious the spring had compressed. Richard said we likely got it so hot, it reformed itself. So we replaced the spring and added the bypass almost every post says is necessary. We don’t have a lumen meter setup, but we compared it to an L6 (2 × 26650) with the same Cree LED and a FET+7135 Driver. Against our back fence, the main light pattern is at least 2/3’s the size and at least 2/3’s the brightness of the big L6. We didn’t see any noticeable sag after 30 seconds when we decided that was long enough for us and turned it off. The C8+ does warm a bit, but has quite a heat sink head. We are pretty amateur at this, but this little flashlight sure packs a punch in a very hand friendly package.

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 24 min 26 sec ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 2844
Location: US

Nice job. Good lesson learned with the spring since it’s an easy/cheap fix. If you touch it after you will notice its smokin hot. A high current spring or one that’s bypassed wont get hot at all.

hyperduc
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 03/02/2018 - 00:34
Posts: 31
Location: United States

Nice build. You could also try the beryllium copper springs, should be able to get away without needing a bypass according to feedback a few posts above.

AlexGT
AlexGT's picture
Offline
Last seen: 45 min 41 sec ago
Joined: 06/07/2012 - 17:39
Posts: 4372
Location: Texas

Hi Richard, I was wondering if you are planning to carry the 3 volt XHP-50.2 that just came out here

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66033

Thanks!

ZED
ZED's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 12 min ago
Joined: 01/14/2016 - 09:37
Posts: 86
Location: Pennsylvania

I don’t know if this is appropriate for Mtn’s thread page or not but I was wondering if there was any interest from the group in the SST-20 LED’s (HCRI especially but also the high flux) enough to make it worth Richard’s effort. I foresee buying more of them a good bit myself. Same goes for AlexGT’s inquiry with the 3V XHP-50. Just a little feeler. Peace!

-Zach

RobertB
RobertB's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 12/18/2015 - 17:49
Posts: 3334
Location: USA, Michigan

Richard’s last comment in this thread was almost 11 months ago

saypat
saypat's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 45 min ago
Joined: 07/13/2011 - 20:32
Posts: 3501
Location: Calif

there was a time early on when Richard spent 4 hours a day replying to e-mails here.

gchart
gchart's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 4 min ago
Joined: 03/19/2016 - 11:57
Posts: 1728
Location: Central IL

Richard is still around; he was seen 10 hours ago. But I’m sure he’s pretty busy. He has his primary job, plus a young family, plus MtnE, now the light bars… It’s a wonder he has any time to be on BLF! Yet he does.

MRsDNF
MRsDNF's picture
Offline
Last seen: 18 hours 11 sec ago
Joined: 12/22/2011 - 21:18
Posts: 12983
Location: A light beam away from the missus in the land of Aus.

gchart wrote:
Richard is still around; he was seen 10 hours ago. But I’m sure he’s pretty busy. He has his primary job, plus a young family, plus MtnE, now the light bars… It’s a wonder he has any time to be on BLF! Yet he does.

And also busy with injuries.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

hyperduc
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 03/02/2018 - 00:34
Posts: 31
Location: United States

You can always email him. I sent him a question and got a thorough reply back within a few days. Love the selection on MTN.

Skylight
Skylight's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 38 min ago
Joined: 10/01/2018 - 04:49
Posts: 330
Location: Europe

I have got a problem with a 26mm FET+7135 MTN driver. I soldered it myself, with a soldering iron first, then again repassed with hot air. I use it in a zoom flashlight with XHP70.2 and Crescendo. However it makes the led flicker when on. It is not that obvious but there are constantly some variations in brightness, though slower than any PWM. If there are some driver experts around here, could you please help me spotting the problem?

Always looking for: used or damaged flashlights for repair and MODDING

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 22 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 12325
Location: LI NY

Maybe some intermittent poor connection or partial intermittent ground out. I'd check the usual culprits first - LED wire grounding out with the reflector - so try running it with no reflector and see if it goes away. Another area is grnd connection to the driver - good contact at the tail end of the tube, and upper end of the battery tube - can remove the tailcap use a heavy wire to test. After that, look for driver component contact with the grnd ring - sometimes mounting these drivers in lights not designed for it has clearance issues - can test by removing the driver and air testing.

You may have done all this or the equivalent and didn't mention -- please detail everything you tried already.

Skylight
Skylight's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 38 min ago
Joined: 10/01/2018 - 04:49
Posts: 330
Location: Europe

Yes, I tried quite many things already. Here is a list:
- bypassed the tailcap with a wire
- used different batteries
- tried only the pill with wires connected
- only the XHP70 running direct drive, NO flickering
- put soldering paste on all components, soldering everything again with hot air
- tried a 10uF condensator on C1, result only constant Turbo, removed again
- changed the Zener diode for another, bigger one
- removed the FET and soldered it again
- changed the OTC condensator for a different one with same value
At this point my knowledge about drivers ends. I can not determine if there is a faulty component on the driver or if something else is wrong. I used all the components from MTN electronics. At the same time I soldered another 26mm driver with Bistro and that one works well.

Always looking for: used or damaged flashlights for repair and MODDING

USA
USA's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 2 weeks ago
Joined: 11/28/2018 - 08:44
Posts: 296

This might be too basic, but I would still like to mention it:
My S2+ flickers in a very similar way when the threads are dirty (either head or tail or both). They may even look clean, but I have to clean them with rubbing alcohol and then the drivers works again.

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 22 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 12325
Location: LI NY

Hhmm, could be a faulty driver board or part - may get some cross coupling of signals with some intermittent contact or proximity interference - unfortunately still a few possibilities remaining...

Probably did this already, but go over the board carefully with a strong magnifier (microscope preferred) and check for nasty solder splashes or contaminants, or anything that looks too close for comfort. I always give drivers I build a close inspection and bath in fair amt of isopropyl alcohol to get rid of contanimants as much as I can. For me at my age, I need magnification and light on the object - equally important.

 

For the threads issue, interesting because the threads on the tail, for example, are anodized and don't conduct electricity - you have to look at where the electrical paths are, and yes, they can get dirty or have oxidation issues.

Skylight
Skylight's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 38 min ago
Joined: 10/01/2018 - 04:49
Posts: 330
Location: Europe

Thanks for your advice, Tom E and USA! LOL So you would say that there is basically not a driver component responsible for flickering, right? I will try to clean the threads on the tail and the pill of the flashlight. If cleaning the driver does not resolve the issue I will try to swap another driver in the flashlight.

Always looking for: used or damaged flashlights for repair and MODDING

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 22 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 12325
Location: LI NY

If you give it a cleaning, use a stiff brush with the isop. alcohol - I'm using a brush that came with a razor, maybe a toothbrush would do as well, or something similar - 90% isop. is good to use, nothing lower, available at most drug stores.

Skylight
Skylight's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 38 min ago
Joined: 10/01/2018 - 04:49
Posts: 330
Location: Europe

Ok, I’ll try it. Thank you for the tip! Thumbs Up

Always looking for: used or damaged flashlights for repair and MODDING

BlueSwordM
BlueSwordM's picture
Offline
Last seen: 42 min 2 sec ago
Joined: 11/29/2017 - 12:34
Posts: 5398
Location: Canada

You could also use a small cotton wool lightly dabbed in hydrochloric acid(or muriatic acid alternatively).

That will surely get rid of any oxidation or debris.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 2 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20324
Location: Heart of Texas

I’ve found flickering issues are very commonly associated with ground problems. The retaining ring on the switch pcb, or even the bare metal under the switch pcb, quite commonly causes these kinds of issues. Most likely there is a place in the multiple contacts that has dirt on it, visible or otherwise.

Richard has been using a thinner PCB for his drivers, make sure the driver is actually getting a solid contact on the retaining ring. If not, build it up some with solder blobs in a few places around the ground ring then double check the retaining ring. Wink

moderator007
moderator007's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 40 min ago
Joined: 12/23/2012 - 04:47
Posts: 3100
Location: North Carolina

DB Custom wrote:
I’ve found flickering issues are very commonly associated with ground problems. The retaining ring on the switch pcb, or even the bare metal under the switch pcb, quite commonly causes these kinds of issues. Most likely there is a place in the multiple contacts that has dirt on it, visible or otherwise.

That’s been pretty much my experiences too.
This problem seems to magnify drastically when you start pulling 10 amps or more, which Dale does quite frequently. Wink
When asking for lots of power, connections, wire size and length, spring resistance and battery sag mean everything.

Pages