Modding the Small Sun ZY-T20 - MT-Gangnam Style - Done - With Beam Shots

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Old-Lumens
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Modding the Small Sun ZY-T20 - MT-Gangnam Style - Done - With Beam Shots

You know I already tore the Small Sun ZY-T20, from this thread.

t201a

 

 Now it's time to do a little innocent Modding MT-Gangnam style.

 

 

 Now for the Mod...

t201b

The idea is that I have wanted to do a large reflector light with a MT-G2 running at 9+ Amps. I finally decided to go ahead and do one. I have a driver from texaspyro and I figured Why Not? Why take three NANJG drivers and do all that wiring, just do this one. Well, I have been communicating with tp about it and it probably can be done, but there's some give and take there. I have to put in a momentary SMD switch and I have to do the diode/resistor mod. I will loose battery monitoring and low battery cut out, but I can keep the stock tail switch in the circuit, to provide a shut off that will keep from having parasitic drain, so I'm going for it.

 

 

t201c

One of the "first problems" is the aluminum heat sink, which I call a led shelf, because it's not really what I think of as a heat sink. I don't believe I want an MT-G2 at 9 amps sitting on this, so I will be cutting out where X marks the spot and using Copper discs in place of that area.

t201d

 

 

 

t201e

But... I think I need much more than that, so here are Six 1" Copper pipe couplings that have been heated to soften them, split apart and flattened with a mallet.

t201f

You can see that I can get two discs out of each coupling, so I will have 12 of them under the modified original led shelf. I should end up with about a 42mm diameter x 15mm thick Copper heat sink, when I cut all those out and solder them together.   With the copper star, copper discs in the Aluminum heat sink and the copper below all soldered together, it should provide some real heat sinking.

 

 

t201g

The next of the "first problems", is the fact that I have to put in a SMD switch and housing. This hole looks like it would be great for it...

t201h

Well, not quite, as you can see on the inside. It is very close to the driver mount and I have to make it bigger yet, for the switch. I may not be able to do it at all here and it is also 180 degrees away from the top of the light when holding it by the handle, so I would have to solve that issue too. I may have to just blow a new hole into the other side of the head, to make it work. One way or another, it will work.

 

 

t201i

The third of the "first problems", is the reflector. It already has a hole big enough to let the dome thru, but I believe I will find that in order to get any kind of a tight spot, I will have to open that hole up so I can sink the reflector down around the led, flush with the star. I will have to set up a testing spot, so I can power the led up and see if I have to lower it.

 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

11-23-13  -  I spent 8 hours in the shop and I really don't have a thing to show for it. Sometimes hand work just seems futile, but here is what I accomplished in all that time.

ssg2a

ssg2b

ssg2c

It took the whole day to make the Copper heat sink. 12 layers of the flat plate made out of pipe couplings, all soldered together and made into a round that fits snug into the head. Three Copper discs that go on top for the LED star to sit on. Opened up the original aluminum shelf, so it is now just threads, so the heat sink will screw in like original.    I am not going to solder the star to the heat sink. I want to be able to get it off easily when it fries after continued 9 amp use.Tongue Out  The heat sink weighs 170 grams or 6 oz. The head, with the heat sink in, weighs 462 grams or 1.03 lbs.   Next up will be testing the reflector to the led and figuring out the necessary height, to get the best hot spot, but not tonight, or tomorrow either.   With the cold front that has come in, the garage is not much fun to be in and I have to do some honey do's tomorrow, like steam cleaning the carpets.Frown

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

11-24-13  -  It's Cold! I know, it's T shirt weather for yous yankees, but after living down here for many years, it's cold whenever it's below 50 and it's well below that. I don't have a lot for you today. I did hook up the MT-G2 to 4xAlkaline AA batteries and fired it off, so I could sit the reflector on it and see what the beam will be like. I really can't adjust the reflector height, so here's a couple of shots with it sitting as it will in the light.

ssg21a

ssg21b

One shot is at a faster shutter speed than the other, to see the hot spot more clearly. One thing I will say is that the half stippled reflector does seem to really help get rid of the dreaded dark spots in the center of the beam, which I see in every MT-G2.

 

I also have been debating on what the hell I am going to do with the switch and today I decided that no matter what, I had to fill in the original area that was milled out for the stock charging port. I ended up going with JB Weld and then I can drill/mill out whatever hole I need for the momentary switch. I picked one switch up from Radio Shack today, but I do not know if I will use it or stick with a Rook switch.

 ssg1q

Once it dries, I can start smoothing and blending. When I have it all set and the switch hole is done, I will paint the bottom section of the head with the Black VHT paint.

 

I did the mod for the texaspyro driver today also. Here's a before & after what I did. I think it will work, but time will tell.

tpm1

tpm2

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

11-27-13

I don't care what anyone else says, It's Cold down here! I'm a wuss after living here for so long. I grew up in harsh winters, with lake effects weather, but after being here for so long, it's cold as heck when it gets to the freezing point here.

Anyway, I have been doing very little, but I have made some progress. If you remember from an earlier photo, I had filled in part of the head with JB Weld and I have gotten the switch problem solved, (I think).

ssh1a

Here's the area after I formed it with files and sandpaper. It came out better than I thought it would. The air holes will be filled before painting.

 

ssh1b

Then I had to make a hole for the rook switch cover. I started out with the drill press and a couple of dremel bits to make the starter hole, but to make it big enough, I ended up doing the rest of the enlarging and depth, with the head in a vise and using the dremel tool by hand.

 

ssh1c

Like I said, it came out better than I could have imagined and I was very worried about the JB Weld breaking up during this endeavor, but it held and it will work. I could not make threads, so the cover will be glued in with epoxy when the whole switch assembly is fit into place.

 

 

ssct1

I also gave up on the tail cap switch. I figured out that it would be hard to break both of the 2S/2P circuits and besides, the switch is not rated at 10 amps, so it would most likely fail sooner or later. Instead of the switch, I went with a plug of Abalone shell backed by a couple of metal discs and held in by the original retaining ring inside the TC.

 

sscp1

I am also working on modifying the original driver into the contact plate for the 2S/2P battery configuration. I still have a lot to do, but every little bit gets me closer to the final day.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here's the last of the photos. It's finished.

 ssmt1a

I decided to rework the circuit path of the batteries. I wanted to load from the tail cap. so I made it into the Caveman style. EA8 that is, with the back contact plate that spins in the tail cap and has alignment studs in it. Here I have soldered a brass pin in the center, so the contact plate will fit over it.

 

ssmt1b

Here's the modified contact plate, with the positive and negative contacts and two guide pins. I drilled the body, for the pins to fit in and align the plate as it is put into place.

 

ssmt1c

The pill is ready. I had to notch the aluminum ring, to clear the wires and I used AA to keep from having any shorts.

 

ssmt1d

The upper contact plate and driver are all wired up, ready to close it all up and "go for it".

 

ssmt1e

The head was painted and the switch is all done. I forgot to fill in the small holes in the JB weld before I painted. Don't know if I will go back and do any more with it, probably not knowing me.

 

ssmt1f

Finished.

ssmt1g

 

 

 

Beam Shots:

ssbs1

Stopped all the way down to 1/60 of a second, to see the hot spot more clearly. Smooth beam, no little "dots" in the center, like most reflectors have with the MT-G2.

 

 

ssbs2

Back at 1 second, it's bright as hell and brighter than any multiple XM-L light I have played with.

 

 

ssbs3

Don't move the camera when you take a photo.  There is a LOT of spill and it does take away from the center spot. I would imagine the stippled bottom half of the reflector is the reason, but since it got rid of the "holes/dots" in the center spot, I guess I can accept the final overall beam.

 

ssbs4

ssbs5

There was a lot of fog over the pond, so it blocked out a lot of the beam. The beam isn't blue either, but it looked that way in the camera, probably because of all the light reflected back from the fog.

 

ssbs6

That's it.

I have not done amp draws yet and I don't know if I can/will. SInce the circuit is 2s/2p I don't know woh I am going to use the meter in the circuit to read the amps. This circuit does not rely on grounding to the light itself. Since the + and - are both at the same end, (up front), there's no way to ground against the case, or at least it wasn't needed to make it work.

 

 EDIT: I read just about 9 amps on the nose with the 20R batteries, so it's doing what it's supposed to do. Good deal.  I still like the SST-90 aspheric better. It's impressive, but I would take a King at 9 amps over this any day. Smaller size and larger hot spot.

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Edited by: Old-Lumens on 11/29/2013 - 02:51
unknown00101
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WOW… that driver… Crazy cool.

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Great mod…

Emitter & driver looks cool

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Hmmm. Will this be crunchy toasty or a melted pool of metal? Good luck on your mission sir and l await your results with baited breath. My fondness of this led grows every time I use one whether its driven mild or wild. The driver setup you are using, would this run 3 x XML’s in series?

 

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MRsDNF wrote:
Will this be crunchy toasty or a melted pool of metal?
Big Smile Big Smile
Mind if I steal that?


Counterfeit 18650s, 2,<a href=“http://

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MRsDNF wrote:
Hmmm. Will this be crunchy toasty or a melted pool of metal? Good luck on your mission sir and l await your results with baited breath. My fondness of this led grows every time I use one whether its driven mild or wild. The driver setup you are using, would this run 3 x XML's in series?
When the solder melts it won't matter.Tongue Out       The driver would drive 3 XML in parallel. It's made for an SRK.

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damn, that’s some amazing work for the materials on hand. I think it’s time to invest in a lathe… Smile

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... keep up the crazy awesome mods... Smile

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mattthemuppet wrote:
damn, that's some amazing work for the materials on hand. I think it's time to invest in a lathe... :)
I promised all the lathe guys here that I wouldn't do that, Sealed.

If I had a place for one, the spare power in the electrical service box and the money, I would have a lathe, but I don't have any of the three.

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That is very cool. I’m also a fan of these MT-G2’s. I really didn’t think I would be at first but they are growing on me.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

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I want to know when these sellers will wake up and start coming out with a for real and just for only MT-G2 driver. I think it's wayyy past time for that. Of course, they will probably make it only pushing 2.75 amps, if it's anything like they do with everything else.Tongue Out

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18sixfifty
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Old-Lumens wrote:

I want to know when these sellers will wake up and start coming out with a for real and just for only MT-G2 driver. I think it’s wayyy past time for that. Of course, they will probably make it only pushing 2.75 amps, if it’s anything like they do with everything else.Tongue Out

It would be nice if they would. Right now the best driver I have found to run one is the driver in the Lustefire triple. It draws enough amps to pop the protection on two panasonic 3400’s. I have it in a Small Sun ZY-T08 and it rocks. Well over 3,000 lumens at start up.

I contacted Wallbuys to see if they will get some in. I’ll let you know if they do. It has to be filed down to fit but once it’s in it’s perfect. I wish it didn’t have the blinkies but beggars can’t be choosers.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

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18sixfifty wrote:
Old-Lumens wrote:

I want to know when these sellers will wake up and start coming out with a for real and just for only MT-G2 driver. I think it's wayyy past time for that. Of course, they will probably make it only pushing 2.75 amps, if it's anything like they do with everything else.Tongue Out

It would be nice if they would. Right now the best driver I have found to run one is the driver in the Lustefire triple. It draws enough amps to pop the protection on two panasonic 3400's. I have it in a Small Sun ZY-T08 and it rocks. Well over 3,000 lumens at start up. I contacted Wallbuys to see if they will get some in. I'll let you know if they do. It has to be filed down to fit but once it's in it's perfect. I wish it didn't have the blinkies but beggars can't be choosers.

+1

Depending on the light it comes from, stock they seems to do between 7-9 amps. And the current it does on high it will do nicely regulated, at least if you are using three cells.

There are already a bunch of drivers out that there that works quite nicely with an MT-G2..

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Old-lumens don't need no stinkin' lathe...he is the original human lathe!  

I only have one question: will there be a music video released alongside the review of the completed build?  Tongue Out

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9 amps?!!?

Would you mind keeping the wrong flashlight?
Best wish, May
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Soumil wrote:

PLEASE HELP ME GEARBEsT! IM LITERALLY CRYING!

 

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More photos in the OP

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jmpaul320 wrote:
9 amps?!!?
24 chips, should be about 9 amps

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Where do I start? Just how much patience do you have? That heatsink itself, wow. The effort involved is incomprehendable to me. What an effort. I may have asked this before, how do you finish it of so its so round and even getting it so flat? Looks like you have found the answer to the shadowy ghosts as well. Good luck with the next stage. This is really amazing work.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

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MRsDNF wrote:
Where do I start? how do you finish it of so its so round and even getting it so flat?

I started out with the flat rectangles that were the result of splitting the pipe couplings and flattening them with a hammer and a block of wood. Then I traced out the circles, (2 on each rectangle). I cut them out with a pair of metal shears. First in squares, then cutting the corners and cutting again, till they are octagonal. Then I hammer them all flat again and coat one surface of each one with solder, by heating with a torch. Then I stack them up and use a pair of vise clamps to hold and squeeze, while heating them all together. That squeezes them tight when the solder melts. After cooling, I put the soldered mass into a vise and start smoothing off the octagon with files. Once I am fairly close, I use a dremel bit in my drill press and work it down till it fits. The final edge finish is with a dremel sanding drum in the drill press. It is not a perfect circle, no matter how hard I try, but it's close enough for horseshoes and hand grenades.

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I’m stumped for words. A+ for effort and achievement. Thanks for sharing.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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Cold! COLD????   It was 16 deg. F in Amarillo this morning.... 5" of snow on the ground and a 20 MPH wind out of the north!!! Our high today is to be 34..... first time above freezing in about 4 days!!!  TYLER DOESN'T GET COLD!!!   Tongue Out  Get my room ready, I'm headed for your house!! 

Great work OL.... AS USUAL!!!   Your craftsmanship, thought and patience are beyond belief!!!

Dan.

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forgive me but i didnt think there were gains to get out of an mtg2 after 4.5a?

Would you mind keeping the wrong flashlight?
Best wish, May
Tmart service team

 

Soumil wrote:

PLEASE HELP ME GEARBEsT! IM LITERALLY CRYING!

 

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Oh, there are certainly gains past 4,5A! Im running one in the 9-10A range.

Here is a chart made by djozz, taken from this thread.

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thanks – i was looking for that specific chart but couldnt find it Smile

looks impressive!

Would you mind keeping the wrong flashlight?
Best wish, May
Tmart service team

 

Soumil wrote:

PLEASE HELP ME GEARBEsT! IM LITERALLY CRYING!

 

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RaceR86 wrote:

Oh, there are certainly gains past 4,5A! Im running one in the 9-10A range.

Here is a chart made by djozz, taken from this thread.

Hmmmmm, looks like 12 amps would be even better. How many extra chips do I have lying around? Better charge up the 20R batts, so they are ready.Tongue Out

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I would see how the setup works with 9A first and for how long you get 9A. There is really not much lumen gain after 9A, but you generate a lot of extra heat... And heat is something you already have enough of at 9A..

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RaceR86 wrote:

I would see how the setup works with 9A first and for how long you get 9A. There is really not much lumen gain after 9A, but you generate a lot of extra heat… And heat is something you already have enough of at 9A..

Nice bonus is with higher amps there is also higher voltage so less for the 7135s to burn off, if I’m reading the chart correctly? If the trade off is lumen heat or driver chip heat, well ….

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More photos in the OP, I'm getting there slowly.

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I dont believe you do not have a lathe hidden somewhere, even one driven by a horse on a treadmill. I’m telling you to go hide it now as I’m coming around later to bust this myth about you only using hand tools and a cheap drill press in your mods. Your workmanship and creativity which I hate to repeat myself is astonishing. I’m sending your TIR back along with some metal and stuff. I want to see what you create with it, not what I stumble myself through. :Sp

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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MRsDNF wrote:
I dont believe you do not have a lathe hidden somewhere, even one driven by a horse on a treadmill. I'm telling you to go hide it now as I'm coming around later to bust this myth about you only using hand tools and a cheap drill press in your mods. Your workmanship and creativity which I hate to repeat myself is astonishing. I'm sending your TIR back along with some metal and stuff. I want to see what you create with it, not what I stumble myself through. :Sp

 

Steve, our Old Lumens IS A LATHE! Tongue Out Like you, I am always astonished at the craftsmanship. Makes us lathe guys work hard to keep up doesn't it!!   Dan.

Texas Lumens Website… http://www.texaslumens.com

WE LIVE IN THE LAND OF THE FREE ONLY BECAUSE OF THE BRAVE!

Old-Lumens
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Last seen: 3 years 3 months ago
Joined: 11/04/2011 - 11:39
Posts: 7478
Location: Tyler, TX, USA

It's done, with beam shots.

My PayPal address: oldlumens (insert the @ sign here) gmail.com

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The BLF Modding Links Thread 

http://imageshack.com/a/img922/1374/jQ2wdL.jpg

 

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