4C Maglite mod, for a light, for me to carry at work. Done, with beam shots

56 posts / 0 new
Last post

Pages

Old-Lumens
Old-Lumens's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 3 months ago
Joined: 11/04/2011 - 11:39
Posts: 7478
Location: Tyler, TX, USA
4C Maglite mod, for a light, for me to carry at work. Done, with beam shots

I have changed posts at work and now I am over at the plant which is closing this week. It will be just us guards till they get all the equipment out of the place. I will be making rounds inside and outside every night starting next week, so I wanted something that would be bright, easy enough to handle and double as a club if need be.Innocent

I got a 4C Maglite and now I am starting to put it together. I will use 3-XM-L T6 leds (cool white), with three 8x7135 drivers, master/slave, to give 3 amps to each led. I don't want to push them super hard or have it get too hot too fast, so 3 amps each ought to be about right. Most of the time I will probably run it on medium anyhow, but I want the brightness if I need it. It won't be a DrJones driver, just a stock 7135 driver with H/M/L/Strobe and SOS.   I will have to run the batteries parallel and I will use three 18650 batteries, either the Panasonics or the 20R batteries, so that I have some run time. The biggest chore will be making a parallel battery holder for the 4C. I will also be using a Judco switch in the stock Mag housing.

 

4c1a

Good thing the head is the same ID as a "D" Maglite, or I couldn't have used the normal 50mm 3-up reflector.

 

 

4c1b

I first thought of using a plastic battery holder and I worked on making one out of PVC pipe, but I soon realized that the bottom battery would have to go into the tail cap, to have enough room for a fancy made parallel holder.

 

 

4c1c

So, I bored out the tail cap, so a modified spring would fit in and I also bored it out so something else would fit in too.

 

 

4c1d

This is 3/4" Copper pipe. I am fitting it down into the tail cap and it will be the battery holder. It will be press fit and it will remain in the tail cap. When I take the tail cap off, the complete holder will come out with it.

 

 

4c1e

I had to figure out a way to cut the pipe, so that I could remove the top half, for changing batteries. I settled on using Dremel cut off wheels in the drill press and made up a Rube Goldberg fixture, so I could cut straight lines down the sides of the pipe.

 

4c1f

I went through a few cut off wheels doing this, but it did work out very well and it got the job done. Then I cut the ends with a hack saw and I left the ends full round, so they will add some stability.

 

4c1g

Now, I have to make the spacers between batteries, so that the positives all go forward and the negatives can just go to ground right against the copper pipe. The spacers will be made out of Copper and soldered to the pipe, with plastic spacers and small copper discs on those spacers, for the + terminals.  It will make more sense when I get there and take some photos.

I will post more when I get more done....

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 12-13-13 OOOhh, Friday the 13th.

4c2a

The negative contacts are in place.  

4c2b

Closer view. I made a couple of copper discs out of some heavy copper plate and soldered them into the holder along with a couple springs. On the backside of each one will be a plastic washer, a smaller copper disc and wire for the positive contacts. I have to go to the hardware store to find some washers. I had none at the shop.

 

I also got the leds/stars reflowed and I got the heat sink made. I will take photos when it's more together.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 12-14-13

4c3a

The Parallel holder is finally finished!

 

 

4c3b

One of the problems was the fact that I had to sink the back battery down into the tail cap, to get all three of them in the space allotted. I had to do some dremel work here, to oval out the hole, so the battery could go in angled.

 

4c3c

Also, I have to do some modding to the top end for that battery, so it would clear when putting it in at an angle.

4c3j

You can see what I mean here. It barely will go in, but it does go in and that's the point. A button top will not work in this light. It has to be an unprotected flat top.

 

  

4c3e

The top positive contact.

 

4c3f

Here you can see the positive contacts on the underside of each set.

 

 

4c3g

The underside of the top, where the wires from the other two come up in and join the top one.

 

4c3h

Before it was put together, you can see the wires that came up inside where all three got joined together.

 

4c3i

Before the upper positive spring was finished, you can see that the spring is on a copper disc and the three wires come up inside that disc. The disc sits on the plastic washer and I used a liberal amount of AA, so that there would be no contact between positive and negative.

 

4c3k

Everything was metered before trying the batteries one at a time and it all works!!

I did not know if it would really work and it was all done by trial and error, with a lot of hand fitting, but it's about the most robust holder I have ever made.

Now it's time to get back to the "normal" modding, like drivers and such...

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 41a

Master Driver has two wires soldered to one of the Vdd pins on any of the 7135 chips. I used this chip. but I could have used any of the other ones, as long as it is the Vdd pin.  The pins are Vdd, Ground & Output.

 

41b

One of the slave drivers - One of the wires from the master driver is soldered to a Vdd pin. Does not matter which chip, any one as long as it is the Vdd pin.

The rest of the wiring is as follows;

  • Positive goes straight to each led, (led plus), from your source and it also goes to the positive of the Master driver, right where the spring usually is.
  • Negative, (Ground), goes to each of the three drivers. Usually soldered on the outer ring of the driver.
  • led negative, (minus), from each driver goes to one led. Let me sat it another way, One led minus from a driver goes to one led and do that with each driver. Each driver controls the amperage to one led, independent of the other drivers, but because Vdd goes from the Master to the slaves, the Master controls the modes.
  • I removed the controller from both of the slave drivers. There is another way. You can just cut the pin of the controller that is in the Vdd circuit on each slave, but I just cut all the pins and take the controller off. Either way it works.
  • led Plus on all three drivers is not used, because we wired the plus side of each led, direct to the power source.

 

 

41c

41d

The last 3-up reflector I had and the derned thing was peeling! I had to sand off all the plate and then polish it. It came out good enough for a work light. I hate lousy plating...

 

 

Beam Shots

b41

b42

b43

b44

 

 

 

 

b4h

HIGH

 

b4m

MEDIUM

 

b4l

LOW

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

That's it. It works and it's bright enough for my needs. Most of the time I will have it on medium anyhow.

The drivers I used are the Fasttech generic 8x7135 drivers that go for cheap. Different controller, (I think), but the circuits work the same way. I added one chip to each one, since they were 2.8 amp drivers.

My PayPal address: oldlumens (insert the @ sign here) gmail.com

My YouTube Flashlight Video Channel

The BLF Modding Links Thread 

http://imageshack.com/a/img922/1374/jQ2wdL.jpg

 

Edited by: Old-Lumens on 12/15/2013 - 03:04
gords1001
gords1001's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 9 months ago
Joined: 05/07/2012 - 14:02
Posts: 5276
Location: wigan england

gords approves of this 8)

Chodes
Chodes's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 years 3 months ago
Joined: 08/25/2013 - 12:08
Posts: 72
Location: Australia

Chodes also approves. Smile Interesting.

I have never completed a parallel holder in my head, close to this would have been 2 slots in the tube, perpendicular to your tube cuts, and have the positive connectors flexible, placed in as cells are loaded. Never thought of splitting the whole holder.
Curious to see the finished holder.

RaceR86
RaceR86's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 years 1 month ago
Joined: 02/22/2012 - 08:32
Posts: 3777
Location: Norway

RaceR86 approves! Smile

 

Old-Lumens wrote:
 I don't want to push them super hard or have it get too hot too fast, so 3 amps each ought to be about right.

:bigsmile:

BLF LED database – collaboration spreadsheet and latest news about where to buy LEDs
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/19342

Ouchyfoot
Ouchyfoot's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 1 day ago
Joined: 09/01/2012 - 06:15
Posts: 5089
Location: Canada

I’m watching. OL, could you take some detailed photos of the master slave setup? I plan on trying it, and think I’ve got it sorted, but every thread with photos always seems to have a wire or something blocking a crucial part I need to see.

Ps. Where do you get your triple reflectors.

MRsDNF
MRsDNF's picture
Offline
Last seen: 21 hours 7 min ago
Joined: 12/22/2011 - 21:18
Posts: 13254
Location: A light beam away from the missus in the land of Aus.

? What is going on here. No torch OL has a torch and need I say what batteries?

Just when I think I’ve seen it all some other creative idea comes along from you know who. 3 amps to each emitter will create lots of heat. Should blind the bad people in this turbo mode. Even medium should put out a heap of light. Its good to hear about the new job. I hope my bad luck on you with electrical stuff was just a passing thing. Beer

Edit. Suncoaster and his better half have just left after a very pleasant evening of banter and he showed me how to use the modes on your 3C MTG-2 light. What an amazing driver.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

ChibiM
ChibiM's picture
Offline
Last seen: 21 hours 28 min ago
Joined: 05/09/2011 - 10:25
Posts: 6238
Location: Holland

Lithium and a flashlight for yourself... times have changed! Wink

 

Always reading your threads with great interest!

jacktheclipper
jacktheclipper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 23 min ago
Joined: 10/31/2010 - 21:18
Posts: 4879
Location: Florida , U.S.A.

Very creative , as usual .

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 days 23 hours ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20623
Location: Heart of Texas

Very innovative, like what you’re doing here.

Panasonic NCR18650PD’s will give you the amps you need while also having nearly 50% more runtime as compared to the Samsung 20R, 2900mAh vs 2000mAh. Kind of a no-brainer there.

Old-Lumens
Old-Lumens's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 3 months ago
Joined: 11/04/2011 - 11:39
Posts: 7478
Location: Tyler, TX, USA

Ouchyfoot wrote:
I'm watching. OL, could you take some detailed photos of the master slave setup? I plan on trying it, and think I've got it sorted, but every thread with photos always seems to have a wire or something blocking a crucial part I need to see. Ps. Where do you get your triple reflectors.

 

1

From This Thread

Does not have to be a Mag switch. Any clicky (on/off) switch would work.

Also, this post describes a shortcut and this one decsribes it better.

 

I got mine from tearing down other triples, but I believe you can get them here or here, OP here, or here, but the last one is deeper than the others, I believe. I think all of mine came out of SRks.

My PayPal address: oldlumens (insert the @ sign here) gmail.com

My YouTube Flashlight Video Channel

The BLF Modding Links Thread 

http://imageshack.com/a/img922/1374/jQ2wdL.jpg

 

Old-Lumens
Old-Lumens's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 3 months ago
Joined: 11/04/2011 - 11:39
Posts: 7478
Location: Tyler, TX, USA

MRsDNF wrote:
? What is going on here. No torch OL has a torch and need I say what batteries? Just when I think I've seen it all some other creative idea comes along from you know who. 3 amps to each emitter will create lots of heat. Should blind the bad people in this turbo mode. Even medium should put out a heap of light. Its good to hear about the new job. I hope my bad luck on you with electrical stuff was just a passing thing. Beer Edit. Suncoaster and his better half have just left after a very pleasant evening of banter and he showed me how to use the modes on your 3C MTG-2 light. What an amazing driver.
Maybe you should get him to move closer, Laughing

I don't have a torch, I never keep 'em long enough.    Actually, it's just a different posting with the old job, but it's quiet at night and it gives me time to mod, errrr.... I mean time to do my job correctly.Innocent

My PayPal address: oldlumens (insert the @ sign here) gmail.com

My YouTube Flashlight Video Channel

The BLF Modding Links Thread 

http://imageshack.com/a/img922/1374/jQ2wdL.jpg

 

Werner
Werner's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 6 days ago
Joined: 10/19/2012 - 15:00
Posts: 3679
Location: Germany

Have I understand this right that a C maglite has the same head as a D one?

Old-Lumens
Old-Lumens's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 3 months ago
Joined: 11/04/2011 - 11:39
Posts: 7478
Location: Tyler, TX, USA

Werner wrote:
Have I understand this right that a C maglite has the same head as a D one?
Some dimensions are the same. The OD at the bezel end is the same. It will take the same bezel, lens, reflector, but of course, the bodies are different, so there are different ID and thread measurements. Also the outer taper profile it different because of the smaller body as well, so, put the two next to each other and they do look different.

My PayPal address: oldlumens (insert the @ sign here) gmail.com

My YouTube Flashlight Video Channel

The BLF Modding Links Thread 

http://imageshack.com/a/img922/1374/jQ2wdL.jpg

 

Werner
Werner's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 6 days ago
Joined: 10/19/2012 - 15:00
Posts: 3679
Location: Germany

Thanks for the clarification. I am absolutely unfamiliar with maglites because they are to expensive here.

Would a par16 spotlight mod work for a c mag as well?

Old-Lumens
Old-Lumens's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 3 months ago
Joined: 11/04/2011 - 11:39
Posts: 7478
Location: Tyler, TX, USA

Werner wrote:
Thanks for the clarification. I am absolutely unfamiliar with maglites because they are to expensive here. Would a par16 spotlight mod work for a c mag as well?
I do not know for sure, since the threaded area inside the head is so much smaller due to the C sized body.

My PayPal address: oldlumens (insert the @ sign here) gmail.com

My YouTube Flashlight Video Channel

The BLF Modding Links Thread 

http://imageshack.com/a/img922/1374/jQ2wdL.jpg

 

dchomak
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 9 months ago
Joined: 03/17/2012 - 20:10
Posts: 4122
Location: Connecticut

Werner wrote:
Thanks for the clarification. I am absolutely unfamiliar with maglites because they are to expensive here.

Would a par16 spotlight mod work for a c mag as well?

Yes it does, I did it.

Check that $2.24 Triple emitter mag mod for pics

g22dru
g22dru's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 4 months ago
Joined: 02/27/2012 - 17:52
Posts: 146
Location: behind the light

….just one more….

Werner
Werner's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 6 days ago
Joined: 10/19/2012 - 15:00
Posts: 3679
Location: Germany

Sorry for the off topic, now I have found it…

Slim Pickens
Slim Pickens's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 days 1 hour ago
Joined: 04/28/2012 - 19:50
Posts: 1198
Location: Maine

ChibiM wrote:

Lithium and a flashlight for yourself… times have changed! Wink

 

Always reading your threads with great interest!


Ain’t that the truth? :bigsmile:

Always good to see a C Mag mod. The 4C is ergonomically my favorite medium-large size light. I’m fond of the “pre-C” versions particularly because the head/body have quite a few (and tighter) threads, which eliminates any of that very slight wobble that a lot of newer C Mags have.

Mod on, OL!

Rufusbduck
Rufusbduck's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 weeks ago
Joined: 04/04/2012 - 15:34
Posts: 10389
Location: Golden state

Especially interested in the battery holder.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

Old-Lumens
Old-Lumens's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 3 months ago
Joined: 11/04/2011 - 11:39
Posts: 7478
Location: Tyler, TX, USA

Rufusbduck wrote:
Especially interested in the battery holder.
Well, there's a couple more photos of it in the OP now.

My PayPal address: oldlumens (insert the @ sign here) gmail.com

My YouTube Flashlight Video Channel

The BLF Modding Links Thread 

http://imageshack.com/a/img922/1374/jQ2wdL.jpg

 

dchomak
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 9 months ago
Joined: 03/17/2012 - 20:10
Posts: 4122
Location: Connecticut

Because of the price of copper, anything made with it now, becomes jewelery!

Gj
Gj's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 days 3 hours ago
Joined: 06/26/2013 - 15:44
Posts: 3063
Location: NY,USA

Subscribed, bookmarked and taking notes. Cool

 

I've been wondering about something while watching the mods that use high currents, and threads looking for ways to reduce resistance in the switch and replacing the switch with a higher rated one. Couldn't you just bypass the switch and hard wire batt- to the drivers ground? Especially in a mod like this where you're already using a master-slave configuration, couldn't you connect all three emitters to a slave, then strip the 7135's off the master? Then, you would only run enough current through the switch to power the master board, basically just the MCU. Or would the 3 slaves cause too much parasitic drain while the flashlight is off?

 

Anyway, the idea keeps rattling around in my head. If it won't work tell me so I can evict it and think about something useful. Or women. Or cookies. Something. Undecided

Old-Lumens
Old-Lumens's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 3 months ago
Joined: 11/04/2011 - 11:39
Posts: 7478
Location: Tyler, TX, USA

dchomak wrote:
Because of the price of copper, anything made with it now, becomes jewelery!
Absolutely!  It's to the point where I don't want to even use it any more. 3/4" pipe isn't cheap. I ended up at Home Depot and bought a 2' section for seven something and even the copper slip fittings are getting untouchable.

My PayPal address: oldlumens (insert the @ sign here) gmail.com

My YouTube Flashlight Video Channel

The BLF Modding Links Thread 

http://imageshack.com/a/img922/1374/jQ2wdL.jpg

 

GottaZoom
GottaZoom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 7 months ago
Joined: 04/12/2012 - 03:14
Posts: 2179

jacktheclipper wrote:

Very creative , as usual .

+1

Just can’t believe it’s not an MTG2 …

Old-Lumens
Old-Lumens's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 3 months ago
Joined: 11/04/2011 - 11:39
Posts: 7478
Location: Tyler, TX, USA

Gj wrote:

I've been wondering about something while watching the mods that use high currents, and threads looking for ways to reduce resistance in the switch and replacing the switch with a higher rated one. Couldn't you just bypass the switch and hard wire batt- to the drivers ground? Especially in a mod like this where you're already using a master-slave configuration, couldn't you connect all three emitters to a slave, then strip the 7135's off the master? Then, you would only run enough current through the switch to power the master board, basically just the MCU. Or would the 3 slaves cause too much parasitic drain while the flashlight is off?

I'm probably not the one to answer. Are you saying no switch, or just using a switch in the control circuit, so that it only sees very low amperage?  I use many of the DrJones programmed NANJG drivers where a momentary switch is used to fire the driver and yes, it does have parasitic drain. I believe that's one of the problems with doing that style switch, like an SRK or Rook and others. There's parasitic drain to contend with. I don't worry about switches much until I get over 10 amps. The Judco switches work well for up to ten amps. I worry more about springs getting brittle from the current thru them.

My PayPal address: oldlumens (insert the @ sign here) gmail.com

My YouTube Flashlight Video Channel

The BLF Modding Links Thread 

http://imageshack.com/a/img922/1374/jQ2wdL.jpg

 

ryansoh3
ryansoh3's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 1 day ago
Joined: 08/04/2012 - 08:21
Posts: 3881
Location: US

Awesome, keep up the good work!

BLF ≠ B-grade Flashlight Forum

 

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 days 23 hours ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20623
Location: Heart of Texas

Tofty is building a 10A switch, Matt a 20A

JonnyC
JonnyC's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 days 18 hours ago
Joined: 01/14/2011 - 19:12
Posts: 1145
Location: Green Bay, WI - USA

Old-Lumens wrote:

Gj wrote:

I've been wondering about something while watching the mods that use high currents, and threads looking for ways to reduce resistance in the switch and replacing the switch with a higher rated one. Couldn't you just bypass the switch and hard wire batt- to the drivers ground? Especially in a mod like this where you're already using a master-slave configuration, couldn't you connect all three emitters to a slave, then strip the 7135's off the master? Then, you would only run enough current through the switch to power the master board, basically just the MCU. Or would the 3 slaves cause too much parasitic drain while the flashlight is off?

I'm probably not the one to answer. Are you saying no switch, or just using a switch in the control circuit, so that it only sees very low amperage?  I use many of the DrJones programmed NANJG drivers where a momentary switch is used to fire the driver and yes, it does have parasitic drain. I believe that's one of the problems with doing that style switch, like an SRK or Rook and others. There's parasitic drain to contend with. I don't worry about switches much until I get over 10 amps. The Judco switches work well for up to ten amps. I worry more about springs getting brittle from the current thru them.

He's wondering if hooking the 7135's up directly to the battery, with the MCU only being powered up through the switch, would cause parasitic drain.  I've heard about 7135's leaking current when not even switched on, but the verdict seemed to go back and forth on that.

It's a very simple solution though that never crossed my mind Smile

Gj
Gj's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 days 3 hours ago
Joined: 06/26/2013 - 15:44
Posts: 3063
Location: NY,USA

Old-Lumens wrote:

Gj wrote:

I've been wondering about something while watching the mods that use high currents, and threads looking for ways to reduce resistance in the switch and replacing the switch with a higher rated one. Couldn't you just bypass the switch and hard wire batt- to the drivers ground? Especially in a mod like this where you're already using a master-slave configuration, couldn't you connect all three emitters to a slave, then strip the 7135's off the master? Then, you would only run enough current through the switch to power the master board, basically just the MCU. Or would the 3 slaves cause too much parasitic drain while the flashlight is off?

I'm probably not the one to answer. Are you saying no switch, or just using a switch in the control circuit, so that it only sees very low amperage?  I use many of the DrJones programmed NANJG drivers where a momentary switch is used to fire the driver and yes, it does have parasitic drain. I believe that's one of the problems with doing that style switch, like an SRK or Rook and others. There's parasitic drain to contend with. I don't worry about switches much until I get over 10 amps. The Judco switches work well for up to ten amps. I worry more about springs getting brittle from the current thru them.

Yes, just using the switch to turn the MCU on/off, and leave the slave boards powered all the time bypassing the switch. The MCU would work exactly as in a single board driver with a mechanical switch. I don't see any downside other than finding room for an additional board, pending info on the slave boards' power use when the flashlight is off.

You also eliminate some resistance in the drive path. 

HBomb
HBomb's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 2 months ago
Joined: 06/13/2011 - 16:39
Posts: 770
Location: USA

Very cool. I like the battery holder/tray thing too. Will be tricky to make all the connections clean and isolated, but a very cool creation. Plus it’s parallel, so you can just pop in/out single cells if you’re in a pinch. Good luck with the new job post.

Pages